﻿1
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<i>[dramatic music]</i>

2
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

3
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<i>male narrator: The following</i>

4
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<i>is a presentation</i>

5
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<i>of HBO Sports.</i>

6
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<i>[waves crashing]</i>

7
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<i>Ever since he can remember,</i>

8
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<i>they've beckoned him.</i>

9
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<i>For so much</i>

10
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<i>of the rest of the world</i>

11
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<i>they offer a peace</i>

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<i>to revel in,</i>

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<i>a fleeting connection</i>

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<i>to eternity.</i>

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<i>["Taro" by Alt-J]</i>

16
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<i>But to this man they're</i>

17
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<i>something far different.</i>

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<i>To Kelly Slater,</i>

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<i>the ocean waves</i>

20
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<i>are how he measures himself.</i>

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<i>♪ ♪</i>

22
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<i>- ♪ Indo ♪</i>

23
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<i>♪ China,</i>

24
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<i>capa jumps jeep ♪</i>

25
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<i>♪ Two feet creep up the road ♪</i>

26
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<i>♪ To photo, to record ♪</i>

27
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<i>♪ Meat lumps and war ♪</i>

28
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<i>♪ They advance</i>

29
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<i>as does his chance ♪</i>

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<i>♪ Oh, oh, oh-oh ♪</i>

31
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<i>♪ Very yellow-white flash ♪</i>

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<i>♪ ♪</i>

33
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<i>narrator: From the moment</i>

34
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<i>he came on the surfing scene</i>

35
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<i>decades ago,</i>

36
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<i>becoming the youngest</i>

37
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<i>men's world champion</i>

38
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<i>in the history of the sport,</i>

39
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<i>no one has captivated</i>

40
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<i>this world so completely,</i>

41
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<i>impacted it so profoundly,</i>

42
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<i>or worked so hard</i>

43
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<i>to dominate it so decisively.</i>

44
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<i>- ♪ Oh, oh, oh ♪</i>

45
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<i>narrator:</i>

46
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<i>And that dedication,</i>

47
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<i>that hunger,</i>

48
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<i>and stubborn unwillingness</i>

49
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<i>to let time dictate his story,</i>

50
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<i>turned him into</i>

51
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<i>surfing's oldest</i>

52
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<i>men's world champion as well.</i>

53
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

54
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<i>♪ Hey, Taro ♪</i>

55
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<i>narrator: Now ever more</i>

56
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<i>remarkably, at the age of 47,</i>

57
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<i>he's still a more than</i>

58
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<i>formidable presence</i>

59
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<i>in every contest he enters.</i>

60
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<i>And none</i>

61
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<i>are more important to him</i>

62
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<i>than the upcoming Pipe Masters</i>

63
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<i>on Hawaii's vaunted</i>

64
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<i>North Shore</i>

65
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<i>where some of the world's</i>

66
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<i>biggest</i>

67
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<i>and most dangerous waves</i>

68
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<i>have always made this</i>

69
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<i>the ultimate place</i>

70
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<i>for Kelly Slater</i>

71
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<i>to measure himself.</i>

72
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<i>- ♪ Ooh, ooh ♪</i>

73
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<i>♪ Ooh-ooh, ooh, ooh, ooh ♪</i>

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<i>narrator: In surfing,</i>

75
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<i>success is determined</i>

76
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<i>by an ability</i>

77
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<i>to be poised and present</i>

78
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<i>as the elements break apart</i>

79
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<i>all around you.</i>

80
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<i>If only life always let us</i>

81
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<i>live in the moment</i>

82
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<i>so completely.</i>

83
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<i>- ♪ Ooh-ooh, ooh, ooh ♪</i>

84
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<i>♪ Ooh ♪</i>

85
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<i>narrator: This is the story</i>

86
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<i>of an athlete</i>

87
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<i>who doesn't know</i>

88
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<i>how many tests he has left</i>

89
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<i>and a look at a man</i>

90
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<i>who still cherishes</i>

91
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<i>the rush of the passion</i>

92
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<i>that's forever defined him</i>

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<i>heading towards</i>

94
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<i>as big an event</i>

95
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<i>as his sport has to offer.</i>

96
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<i>This is "24/7: Kelly Slater."</i>

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<i>[dramatic music]</i>

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<i>♪ ♪</i>

99
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<i>[waves crashing]</i>

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- Okay.

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- How hard is it for you

102
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to turn your back on the ocean?

103
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- Yeah, it's hard not

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to look at it.

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Like, I wanna be on that side

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looking that way.

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This is, uh--I don't know.

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The ocean's mesmerizing,

109
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you know?

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You just--[inhales deeply]

111
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even if you're not surfing,

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I just like

113
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staring at the ocean.

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I just think--

115
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I don't know, like,

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I don't know how I'd live

117
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without an ocean.

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<i>[upbeat ukulele music]</i>

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<i>- [singing in Hawaiian]</i>

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<i>♪ ♪</i>

121
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<i>narrator: If the ocean</i>

122
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<i>is an essential driving force</i>

123
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<i>for all of life on Earth,</i>

124
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<i>here on this chain of islands</i>

125
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<i>in the North Pacific</i>

126
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<i>the majestic means</i>

127
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<i>by which sea crashes into land</i>

128
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<i>has mesmerized locals and</i>

129
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<i>visitors alike for centuries.</i>

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<i>♪ ♪</i>

131
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<i>Looking at it that way,</i>

132
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<i>Kelly Slater was long ago</i>

133
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<i>just another surfer</i>

134
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<i>who came to Hawaii</i>

135
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<i>for the waves.</i>

136
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<i>But of course, that's</i>

137
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<i>just the start of the story,</i>

138
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<i>and not merely because</i>

139
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<i>he's Kelly Slater</i>

140
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<i>but because this is</i>

141
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<i>the fabled North Shore of Oahu</i>

142
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<i>and the wave</i>

143
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<i>they call Pipeline.</i>

144
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

145
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<i>- As a kid, a friend of mine</i>

146
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<i>had a picture of Pipeline</i>

147
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<i>on his wall,</i>

148
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<i>and from the time I was</i>

149
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<i>probably eight years old</i>

150
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I just used to imagine

151
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that wave and think,

152
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"Gosh, I'll nev--there's

153
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no way I'll ever ride that."

154
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<i>You know, like,</i>

155
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<i>it used to scare me</i>

156
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<i>but it was one of those things</i>

157
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<i>where I would sit there</i>

158
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<i>sometimes</i>

159
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<i>and just stand in his room</i>

160
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<i>and stare at this wave.</i>

161
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<i>Pipeline's our Mecca,</i>

162
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<i>Hawaii's our Mecca.</i>

163
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<i>It's the place we all</i>

164
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<i>have to go as surfers</i>

165
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<i>to prove ourselves and to test</i>

166
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<i>ourselves and to live out,</i>

167
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you know, your dream

168
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you have as a kid.

169
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

170
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<i>narrator: The kid who once</i>

171
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<i>dreamed of surfing here</i>

172
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<i>has now been coming</i>

173
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<i>to this shore</i>

174
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<i>for upwards of 35 years.</i>

175
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<i>The Florida native spends</i>

176
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<i>several months a year in Oahu,</i>

177
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<i>in a setting that offers</i>

178
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<i>a sense of solace and comfort</i>

179
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<i>along with its surf.</i>

180
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<i>[dramatic music]</i>

181
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<i>And today will be the</i>

182
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<i>first day he'll surf Pipeline</i>

183
00:05:51,067 --> 00:05:53,367
<i>since arriving</i>

184
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<i>in early November,</i>

185
00:05:53,433 --> 00:05:54,633
<i>having waited more than a week</i>

186
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<i>for the conditions</i>

187
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<i>to be right.</i>

188
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<i>- Pipeline is just--</i>

189
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<i>I feel like I've built my life</i>

190
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<i>around it on many levels.</i>

191
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<i>It's the wave I look most</i>

192
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<i>forward to surfing every year.</i>

193
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There have been just

194
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generations of surfers

195
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who've lived their life

196
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by Pipeline.

197
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There's really no wave like it

198
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in the world.

199
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

200
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<i>narrator: Pipeline is the</i>

201
00:06:18,000 --> 00:06:20,600
<i>setting for the final event</i>

202
00:06:20,667 --> 00:06:22,667
<i>of the World Surf League</i>

203
00:06:20,667 --> 00:06:22,667
<i>season,</i>

204
00:06:22,733 --> 00:06:24,700
<i>the Billabong Pipe Masters,</i>

205
00:06:24,767 --> 00:06:27,733
<i>set to get underway</i>

206
00:06:24,767 --> 00:06:27,733
<i>on December 8th.</i>

207
00:06:27,800 --> 00:06:29,533
<i>Slater has won the contest</i>

208
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<i>more than anyone else</i>

209
00:06:29,600 --> 00:06:31,467
<i>in the sport.</i>

210
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

211
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- I have won the Pipe Masters

212
00:06:33,267 --> 00:06:36,500
seven times.

213
00:06:36,567 --> 00:06:40,267
<i>I've competed in it</i>

214
00:06:36,567 --> 00:06:40,267
<i>about 28 times.</i>

215
00:06:40,333 --> 00:06:42,433
<i>If there's an event on tour</i>

216
00:06:40,333 --> 00:06:42,433
<i>that favors me,</i>

217
00:06:42,500 --> 00:06:43,467
<i>it would be this one</i>

218
00:06:43,533 --> 00:06:44,467
just 'cause of my experience

219
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and the confidence I've had

220
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surfing heats

221
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and how well I know the wave

222
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and that sort of thing.

223
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<i>[dreamy music]</i>

224
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<i>♪ ♪</i>

225
00:06:54,100 --> 00:06:56,400
<i>If I could win</i>

226
00:06:54,100 --> 00:06:56,400
<i>the Pipe Masters this year</i>

227
00:06:56,467 --> 00:06:58,800
and if it was the last contest

228
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I ever won in my career,

229
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I would die a happy man,

230
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for sure.

231
00:07:01,533 --> 00:07:02,833
<i>narrator:</i>

232
00:07:01,533 --> 00:07:02,833
<i>These days the notion</i>

233
00:07:02,900 --> 00:07:05,633
<i>of Kelly Slater's competitive</i>

234
00:07:02,900 --> 00:07:05,633
<i>career coming to a close</i>

235
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<i>has been hotly</i>

236
00:07:05,700 --> 00:07:08,600
<i>speculated about,</i>

237
00:07:08,667 --> 00:07:10,333
<i>owing in part to remarks made</i>

238
00:07:10,400 --> 00:07:15,400
<i>by the 47-year-old 11-time</i>

239
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<i>world champion himself.</i>

240
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<i>- This is a funny year</i>

241
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<i>'cause I--</i>

242
00:07:17,200 --> 00:07:18,267
<i>last year I announced</i>

243
00:07:18,333 --> 00:07:20,667
<i>that this was likely</i>

244
00:07:18,333 --> 00:07:20,667
<i>gonna be my retirement year.</i>

245
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Then I've kinda gone

246
00:07:20,733 --> 00:07:23,167
a little bit cold on that,

247
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not that I won't

248
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but not that I will.

249
00:07:25,733 --> 00:07:27,267
<i>You know, people say,</i>

250
00:07:25,733 --> 00:07:27,267
<i>"I wanna go out on top,"</i>

251
00:07:27,333 --> 00:07:28,267
<i>that kind of thing.</i>

252
00:07:28,333 --> 00:07:30,367
<i>Of course, we all want</i>

253
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<i>to go out on top.</i>

254
00:07:30,433 --> 00:07:33,633
<i>I want to go out</i>

255
00:07:30,433 --> 00:07:33,633
<i>when the battery's just done.</i>

256
00:07:33,700 --> 00:07:35,967
<i>Like, I just want--</i>

257
00:07:33,700 --> 00:07:35,967
<i>I wanna kill that battery.</i>

258
00:07:36,033 --> 00:07:38,033
That competitive surfing

259
00:07:36,033 --> 00:07:38,033
battery

260
00:07:38,100 --> 00:07:39,900
and just throw it

261
00:07:38,100 --> 00:07:39,900
out the window and be like,

262
00:07:39,967 --> 00:07:41,133
"All right, I'm done."

263
00:07:41,200 --> 00:07:44,433
<i>♪ ♪</i>

264
00:07:44,500 --> 00:07:46,867
<i>[machete clacking]</i>

265
00:07:51,967 --> 00:07:53,800
<i>narrator: If the waves</i>

266
00:07:51,967 --> 00:07:53,800
<i>are what once attracted</i>

267
00:07:53,867 --> 00:07:56,800
<i>a 12-year-old boy here</i>

268
00:07:53,867 --> 00:07:56,800
<i>from halfway around the world</i>

269
00:07:56,867 --> 00:07:59,667
<i>in Cocoa Beach, Florida,</i>

270
00:07:56,867 --> 00:07:59,667
<i>they're in fact</i>

271
00:07:59,733 --> 00:08:03,600
<i>just the start of the</i>

272
00:07:59,733 --> 00:08:03,600
<i>North Shore of Oahu's charms.</i>

273
00:08:03,667 --> 00:08:09,000
<i>♪ ♪</i>

274
00:08:09,067 --> 00:08:12,600
<i>They say everything</i>

275
00:08:09,067 --> 00:08:12,600
<i>moves a little slower here...</i>

276
00:08:12,667 --> 00:08:15,300
<i>even time itself.</i>

277
00:08:15,367 --> 00:08:19,400
<i>Shoes, shirts, and stress</i>

278
00:08:15,367 --> 00:08:19,400
<i>are in short supply.</i>

279
00:08:19,467 --> 00:08:21,400
<i>While seven miles of beaches</i>

280
00:08:21,467 --> 00:08:26,300
<i>are never more than a walk</i>

281
00:08:21,467 --> 00:08:26,300
<i>or a short ride away--</i>

282
00:08:26,367 --> 00:08:29,967
<i>a gleaming playground for</i>

283
00:08:26,367 --> 00:08:29,967
<i>the very best in the world.</i>

284
00:08:30,033 --> 00:08:31,833
[children shouting and playing]

285
00:08:31,900 --> 00:08:33,533
<i>- Hawaii sort of raised me,</i>

286
00:08:31,900 --> 00:08:33,533
<i>you know?</i>

287
00:08:33,600 --> 00:08:37,067
<i>I--the culture here,</i>

288
00:08:33,600 --> 00:08:37,067
<i>the people, the community.</i>

289
00:08:37,133 --> 00:08:39,600
I think it's formed

290
00:08:37,133 --> 00:08:39,600
a lot of who I am.

291
00:08:39,667 --> 00:08:42,667
Really has become, uh,

292
00:08:42,733 --> 00:08:43,767
my second home.

293
00:08:43,833 --> 00:08:45,933
<i>It is the one place</i>

294
00:08:43,833 --> 00:08:45,933
<i>where everyone ends up at</i>

295
00:08:46,000 --> 00:08:48,367
<i>from the surf world</i>

296
00:08:46,000 --> 00:08:48,367
<i>in the winter.</i>

297
00:08:48,433 --> 00:08:51,633
We all do go to Australia

298
00:08:48,433 --> 00:08:51,633
and we all do go to Europe

299
00:08:51,700 --> 00:08:52,800
and places like that,

300
00:08:51,700 --> 00:08:52,800
but there's nowhere

301
00:08:52,867 --> 00:08:53,900
that's like the North Shore

302
00:08:54,000 --> 00:08:56,433
where everything's

303
00:08:54,000 --> 00:08:56,433
tightly condensed in one place

304
00:08:56,500 --> 00:08:58,833
and you get the competitors

305
00:08:56,500 --> 00:08:58,833
and the free surfers

306
00:08:58,900 --> 00:09:01,433
and the people who are just

307
00:08:58,900 --> 00:09:01,433
traveling for a good vacation

308
00:09:01,500 --> 00:09:03,033
all going at the same time.

309
00:09:03,100 --> 00:09:04,567
<i>It just--</i>

310
00:09:03,100 --> 00:09:04,567
<i>it doesn't happen in France,</i>

311
00:09:04,633 --> 00:09:08,133
<i>it doesn't happen in Brazil</i>

312
00:09:04,633 --> 00:09:08,133
<i>or Florida or California.</i>

313
00:09:08,200 --> 00:09:11,533
Just--Hawaii's

314
00:09:08,200 --> 00:09:11,533
real different like that.

315
00:09:11,600 --> 00:09:14,600
<i>It's a place that definitely</i>

316
00:09:11,600 --> 00:09:14,600
<i>brings everyone together.</i>

317
00:09:14,667 --> 00:09:15,700
<i>We're all here to surf</i>

318
00:09:15,767 --> 00:09:17,100
<i>and maybe get the best wave</i>

319
00:09:15,767 --> 00:09:17,100
<i>of our life</i>

320
00:09:17,167 --> 00:09:20,467
and the best experience,

321
00:09:17,167 --> 00:09:20,467
but...

322
00:09:20,533 --> 00:09:22,067
everyone wants that wave.

323
00:09:22,133 --> 00:09:23,933
<i>♪ ♪</i>

324
00:09:25,633 --> 00:09:27,733
[waves crashing]

325
00:09:27,800 --> 00:09:29,000
<i>narrator:</i>

326
00:09:27,800 --> 00:09:29,000
<i>That's all not to say</i>

327
00:09:29,067 --> 00:09:31,800
<i>that competition</i>

328
00:09:29,067 --> 00:09:31,800
<i>isn't part of the routine.</i>

329
00:09:31,867 --> 00:09:33,033
- Go check it out in here.

330
00:09:33,100 --> 00:09:34,600
<i>narrator: And while</i>

331
00:09:33,100 --> 00:09:34,600
<i>December's Pipe Masters</i>

332
00:09:34,667 --> 00:09:36,133
<i>will serve, as always,</i>

333
00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:38,700
<i>as the biggest event</i>

334
00:09:36,200 --> 00:09:38,700
<i>of the season here,</i>

335
00:09:38,767 --> 00:09:41,433
<i>it also is the last of three</i>

336
00:09:38,767 --> 00:09:41,433
<i>North Shore events</i>

337
00:09:41,500 --> 00:09:43,667
<i>known as</i>

338
00:09:41,500 --> 00:09:43,667
<i>surfing's Triple Crown.</i>

339
00:09:44,800 --> 00:09:45,733
- What's happening here?

340
00:09:45,800 --> 00:09:47,100
<i>narrator: The first</i>

341
00:09:45,800 --> 00:09:47,100
<i>is just a few days away,</i>

342
00:09:47,167 --> 00:09:48,433
<i>the Hawaiian Pro,</i>

343
00:09:48,500 --> 00:09:52,267
<i>held at another famed location</i>

344
00:09:48,500 --> 00:09:52,267
<i>on the shore, Haleiwa.</i>

345
00:09:52,333 --> 00:09:55,533
<i>- One of my favorite waves</i>

346
00:09:52,333 --> 00:09:55,533
<i>in the whole world is Haleiwa.</i>

347
00:09:55,600 --> 00:09:57,700
<i>Between Haleiwa and Pipeline,</i>

348
00:09:57,767 --> 00:09:59,300
<i>those are the two waves</i>

349
00:09:57,767 --> 00:09:59,300
<i>on the North Shore</i>

350
00:09:59,367 --> 00:10:01,233
<i>I think that bring the best</i>

351
00:09:59,367 --> 00:10:01,233
<i>out in what I have to offer,</i>

352
00:10:01,300 --> 00:10:02,367
<i>surfing-wise.</i>

353
00:10:02,433 --> 00:10:04,567
Couple of contest guys

354
00:10:02,433 --> 00:10:04,567
practicing.

355
00:10:04,633 --> 00:10:07,200
Which is funny, 'cause it's--

356
00:10:04,633 --> 00:10:07,200
it'll be a lot bigger than this

357
00:10:07,267 --> 00:10:09,133
but maybe just

358
00:10:07,267 --> 00:10:09,133
getting a feel for it

359
00:10:09,200 --> 00:10:12,100
and you can kinda get in

360
00:10:09,200 --> 00:10:12,100
the line-up and see--

361
00:10:12,167 --> 00:10:13,333
and kinda get in the ocean

362
00:10:13,400 --> 00:10:15,033
and feel your line-ups

363
00:10:13,400 --> 00:10:15,033
a little bit.

364
00:10:15,100 --> 00:10:16,267
When we're sitting out there,

365
00:10:16,333 --> 00:10:18,600
we look back up at different

366
00:10:16,333 --> 00:10:18,600
trees and buildings and stuff

367
00:10:18,667 --> 00:10:19,633
and you--

368
00:10:19,700 --> 00:10:21,200
you get your--

369
00:10:21,267 --> 00:10:22,933
you kinda get two points

370
00:10:21,267 --> 00:10:22,933
and you make a straight line

371
00:10:23,000 --> 00:10:24,067
and get your line-up, you know.

372
00:10:24,133 --> 00:10:25,933
And if you get one point

373
00:10:24,133 --> 00:10:25,933
over there,

374
00:10:26,000 --> 00:10:28,300
one line that way and one line

375
00:10:26,000 --> 00:10:28,300
that way and you triangulate

376
00:10:28,367 --> 00:10:30,067
and you know exactly

377
00:10:28,367 --> 00:10:30,067
where you are on the reef.

378
00:10:30,133 --> 00:10:33,333
Pretty basic way

379
00:10:30,133 --> 00:10:33,333
to line yourself up out there.

380
00:10:33,400 --> 00:10:34,600
<i>This year</i>

381
00:10:33,400 --> 00:10:34,600
<i>I've entered Haleiwa.</i>

382
00:10:34,667 --> 00:10:37,000
I don't generally surf

383
00:10:34,667 --> 00:10:37,000
the whole Triple Crown

384
00:10:37,067 --> 00:10:39,333
but I'm surfing the event

385
00:10:37,067 --> 00:10:39,333
this year.

386
00:10:39,400 --> 00:10:42,033
Luckily, thankfully,

387
00:10:39,400 --> 00:10:42,033
I'm surfing it because, um,

388
00:10:42,100 --> 00:10:44,467
the swell forecast

389
00:10:42,100 --> 00:10:44,467
looks really good.

390
00:10:44,533 --> 00:10:46,967
It's probably the best forecast

391
00:10:44,533 --> 00:10:46,967
I've seen for Haleiwa in years

392
00:10:47,033 --> 00:10:49,467
<i>for the event,</i>

393
00:10:47,033 --> 00:10:49,467
<i>so I'm super excited.</i>

394
00:10:49,533 --> 00:10:53,333
<i>[dramatic music]</i>

395
00:10:53,400 --> 00:10:55,667
<i>narrator: A strong showing</i>

396
00:10:53,400 --> 00:10:55,667
<i>at the event at Haleiwa</i>

397
00:10:55,733 --> 00:10:58,600
<i>could offer Slater</i>

398
00:10:55,733 --> 00:10:58,600
<i>a dose of renewed confidence</i>

399
00:10:58,667 --> 00:11:01,533
<i>heading into Pipeline</i>

400
00:10:58,667 --> 00:11:01,533
<i>in a few week's time,</i>

401
00:11:01,600 --> 00:11:06,033
<i>following a 2019 season that</i>

402
00:11:01,600 --> 00:11:06,033
<i>so far has fallen well short</i>

403
00:11:06,100 --> 00:11:08,633
<i>of his own lofty standards.</i>

404
00:11:08,700 --> 00:11:09,800
<i>- Kelly Slater--</i>

405
00:11:09,867 --> 00:11:12,600
<i>oh, just unable</i>

406
00:11:09,867 --> 00:11:12,600
<i>to finish off there.</i>

407
00:11:12,667 --> 00:11:15,667
- To be in tenth

408
00:11:12,667 --> 00:11:15,667
coming into the last event?

409
00:11:15,733 --> 00:11:16,667
I don't know.

410
00:11:16,733 --> 00:11:18,500
I'm not happy with it.

411
00:11:16,733 --> 00:11:18,500
[chuckles]

412
00:11:18,567 --> 00:11:20,433
<i>- Lining up for the alley-oop</i>

413
00:11:18,567 --> 00:11:20,433
<i>on the end section--</i>

414
00:11:20,500 --> 00:11:21,733
<i>- No!</i>

415
00:11:21,800 --> 00:11:23,733
<i>- Not quite enough for Kelly.</i>

416
00:11:23,800 --> 00:11:25,167
<i>- I can think back on, like,</i>

417
00:11:25,233 --> 00:11:28,267
either a wave or a heat I had

418
00:11:25,233 --> 00:11:28,267
at a couple events

419
00:11:28,333 --> 00:11:29,533
where I felt like I'd

420
00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:31,300
kind of started

421
00:11:29,600 --> 00:11:31,300
getting my stride a little bit,

422
00:11:31,367 --> 00:11:35,833
but I'd have to say I'm not

423
00:11:31,367 --> 00:11:35,833
real happy with my performance.

424
00:11:35,900 --> 00:11:38,000
<i>- Slater really seems focused</i>

425
00:11:38,067 --> 00:11:39,367
<i>and he's chasing</i>

426
00:11:38,067 --> 00:11:39,367
<i>a big number here.</i>

427
00:11:39,433 --> 00:11:41,933
<i>That wave</i>

428
00:11:39,433 --> 00:11:41,933
<i>just not cooperating.</i>

429
00:11:42,000 --> 00:11:44,700
- Last five events--I've

430
00:11:42,000 --> 00:11:44,700
won all those events before

431
00:11:44,767 --> 00:11:47,900
and the best I did in the

432
00:11:44,767 --> 00:11:47,900
last five--it was ninth place,

433
00:11:47,967 --> 00:11:49,167
so I look back at that

434
00:11:47,967 --> 00:11:49,167
and I'm like,

435
00:11:49,233 --> 00:11:52,167
"I don't know if I could

436
00:11:49,233 --> 00:11:52,167
surf those five events again

437
00:11:52,233 --> 00:11:54,900
all in a row and do as bad

438
00:11:52,233 --> 00:11:54,900
as I just did."

439
00:11:54,967 --> 00:11:56,133
That's how it feels to me.

440
00:11:56,200 --> 00:11:57,267
What's up, Marty?

441
00:11:57,333 --> 00:12:00,200
- What's up, Kelly?

442
00:11:57,333 --> 00:12:00,200
- What's goin' on, guys?

443
00:12:00,267 --> 00:12:02,267
<i>narrator: The truth is</i>

444
00:12:00,267 --> 00:12:02,267
<i>that those results</i>

445
00:12:02,333 --> 00:12:06,367
<i>only matter so much</i>

446
00:12:02,333 --> 00:12:06,367
<i>to many locals here.</i>

447
00:12:06,433 --> 00:12:08,667
<i>And some 48 hours</i>

448
00:12:06,433 --> 00:12:08,667
<i>before he's scheduled</i>

449
00:12:08,733 --> 00:12:11,667
<i>to attack the Haleiwa waves</i>

450
00:12:08,733 --> 00:12:11,667
<i>in competition,</i>

451
00:12:11,733 --> 00:12:14,100
<i>his presence on the beach,</i>

452
00:12:11,733 --> 00:12:14,100
<i>as per usual,</i>

453
00:12:14,167 --> 00:12:16,267
<i>attracts the attention</i>

454
00:12:14,167 --> 00:12:16,267
<i>of some of the North Shore's</i>

455
00:12:16,333 --> 00:12:18,267
<i>youngest surfing aficionados.</i>

456
00:12:18,333 --> 00:12:20,233
- Boogie board.

457
00:12:20,300 --> 00:12:21,467
- What's up, bud?

458
00:12:21,533 --> 00:12:22,467
Hey, what's up?

459
00:12:22,533 --> 00:12:23,500
- Hi.

460
00:12:22,533 --> 00:12:23,500
[laughs]

461
00:12:23,567 --> 00:12:24,500
- [laughs]

462
00:12:23,567 --> 00:12:24,500
- High five.

463
00:12:24,567 --> 00:12:25,500
- Hi.

464
00:12:25,567 --> 00:12:27,033
What do I gotta do to win?

465
00:12:27,100 --> 00:12:29,633
- Just do some big turns

466
00:12:27,100 --> 00:12:29,633
like you always do.

467
00:12:29,700 --> 00:12:31,533
- Big open-faced turns?

468
00:12:29,700 --> 00:12:31,533
- Yeah.

469
00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:32,500
- Yeah?

470
00:12:31,600 --> 00:12:32,500
- And then--

471
00:12:32,567 --> 00:12:33,500
- Barrels?

472
00:12:32,567 --> 00:12:33,500
all: Yes.

473
00:12:33,567 --> 00:12:34,767
- Tons of barrels.

474
00:12:33,567 --> 00:12:34,767
- 360s?

475
00:12:34,833 --> 00:12:35,767
all: Yeah.

476
00:12:35,833 --> 00:12:37,067
- Carving 360s?

477
00:12:35,833 --> 00:12:37,067
all: Yes.

478
00:12:37,133 --> 00:12:38,767
- Okay, all right.

479
00:12:38,833 --> 00:12:41,100
Carving 360, a big carve,

480
00:12:38,833 --> 00:12:41,100
and a barrel.

481
00:12:41,167 --> 00:12:43,567
- Yes.

482
00:12:41,167 --> 00:12:43,567
- That should win it.

483
00:12:43,633 --> 00:12:45,333
Whoa, look at this one.

484
00:12:45,400 --> 00:12:47,600
Smash it for us, for the boys.

485
00:12:47,667 --> 00:12:49,733
- Whoa!

486
00:12:47,667 --> 00:12:49,733
- Oh, man.

487
00:12:49,800 --> 00:12:50,733
No one's hittin' it.

488
00:12:50,800 --> 00:12:51,867
I'm gonna go out there

489
00:12:50,800 --> 00:12:51,867
and hit it for you guys.

490
00:12:51,933 --> 00:12:52,867
- Thanks!

491
00:12:51,933 --> 00:12:52,867
- Yeah.

492
00:12:52,933 --> 00:12:53,867
- I wanna see you.

493
00:12:52,933 --> 00:12:53,867
- Okay.

494
00:12:53,933 --> 00:12:54,967
- All right.

495
00:12:55,033 --> 00:12:56,167
Okay guys, I'm gonna go surf.

496
00:12:56,233 --> 00:12:58,133
- Okay, hope your shred.

497
00:12:58,200 --> 00:13:01,133
<i>[suspenseful music]</i>

498
00:13:01,200 --> 00:13:06,333
<i>♪ ♪</i>

499
00:13:06,400 --> 00:13:08,233
<i>narrator: There's a duality</i>

500
00:13:06,400 --> 00:13:08,233
<i>to Slater's status</i>

501
00:13:08,300 --> 00:13:10,767
<i>on the tour at this point.</i>

502
00:13:10,833 --> 00:13:13,167
<i>He's a living legend</i>

503
00:13:10,833 --> 00:13:13,167
<i>who still garners respect</i>

504
00:13:13,233 --> 00:13:15,367
<i>in every contest he's entered,</i>

505
00:13:15,433 --> 00:13:17,033
<i>even as he hasn't won</i>

506
00:13:15,433 --> 00:13:17,033
<i>a tour event</i>

507
00:13:17,100 --> 00:13:18,833
<i>in more than three years,</i>

508
00:13:18,900 --> 00:13:22,900
<i>a period that includes</i>

509
00:13:18,900 --> 00:13:22,900
<i>a serious foot injury in 2017</i>

510
00:13:22,967 --> 00:13:26,067
<i>that significantly</i>

511
00:13:22,967 --> 00:13:26,067
<i>curbed his schedule.</i>

512
00:13:26,133 --> 00:13:27,633
<i>For every up and down,</i>

513
00:13:27,700 --> 00:13:30,267
<i>his temperament</i>

514
00:13:27,700 --> 00:13:30,267
<i>has remained unchanged.</i>

515
00:13:30,333 --> 00:13:32,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

516
00:13:32,633 --> 00:13:33,700
<i>- I think as a competitor</i>

517
00:13:33,767 --> 00:13:35,233
<i>in your mind</i>

518
00:13:33,767 --> 00:13:35,233
<i>you don't ever age.</i>

519
00:13:35,300 --> 00:13:37,733
You're still approach it

520
00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:40,700
kind of like you just want

521
00:13:37,800 --> 00:13:40,700
to take everyone else out,

522
00:13:40,767 --> 00:13:41,967
you know, you wanna dominate.

523
00:13:42,033 --> 00:13:44,367
<i>♪ ♪</i>

524
00:13:44,433 --> 00:13:45,967
<i>When I got on tour,</i>

525
00:13:44,433 --> 00:13:45,967
<i>the oldest guy on tour</i>

526
00:13:46,033 --> 00:13:47,867
<i>was 28 years old, I think.</i>

527
00:13:47,933 --> 00:13:49,833
<i>I'm almost 20 years older</i>

528
00:13:47,933 --> 00:13:49,833
<i>than that.</i>

529
00:13:49,900 --> 00:13:55,100
<i>♪ ♪</i>

530
00:13:55,167 --> 00:13:57,667
<i>It's tough when you start</i>

531
00:13:55,167 --> 00:13:57,667
<i>losing consistently</i>

532
00:13:57,733 --> 00:13:59,267
<i>and you're not winning</i>

533
00:13:57,733 --> 00:13:59,267
<i>competition</i>

534
00:13:59,333 --> 00:14:00,567
<i>for a year or two years,</i>

535
00:14:00,633 --> 00:14:02,700
you're not winning

536
00:14:00,633 --> 00:14:02,700
any contests.

537
00:14:02,767 --> 00:14:05,567
It's hard and I know

538
00:14:02,767 --> 00:14:05,567
there's people out there

539
00:14:05,633 --> 00:14:07,133
<i>saying, "Oh, he should've</i>

540
00:14:05,633 --> 00:14:07,133
<i>quit a long time ago,"</i>

541
00:14:07,200 --> 00:14:08,167
<i>but I enjoy it.</i>

542
00:14:08,233 --> 00:14:10,100
<i>I enjoy the energy,</i>

543
00:14:08,233 --> 00:14:10,100
<i>I enjoy being around it.</i>

544
00:14:10,167 --> 00:14:12,033
And to be part of that still

545
00:14:10,167 --> 00:14:12,033
for a little longer

546
00:14:12,100 --> 00:14:13,300
has been really fun for me.

547
00:14:13,367 --> 00:14:16,800
<i>♪ ♪</i>

548
00:14:19,667 --> 00:14:22,700
[thunder cracks and echoes]

549
00:14:25,600 --> 00:14:28,667
[buzzing]

550
00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:39,733
- Ooh, right there.

551
00:14:36,200 --> 00:14:39,733
- [indistinct]

552
00:14:39,800 --> 00:14:41,400
Too much surfing?

553
00:14:41,467 --> 00:14:43,467
- I've been surfing so much

554
00:14:41,467 --> 00:14:43,467
the last couple days.

555
00:14:43,533 --> 00:14:44,800
- Oh, my goodness.

556
00:14:44,867 --> 00:14:46,600
<i>[dreamy music]</i>

557
00:14:46,667 --> 00:14:48,167
<i>narrator:</i>

558
00:14:46,667 --> 00:14:48,167
<i>Many, many, waves ago,</i>

559
00:14:48,233 --> 00:14:51,533
<i>all he did to prepare</i>

560
00:14:48,233 --> 00:14:51,533
<i>for contests was to surf,</i>

561
00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:53,900
<i>but with age</i>

562
00:14:51,600 --> 00:14:53,900
<i>has come the reality</i>

563
00:14:53,967 --> 00:14:57,033
<i>that there are other ways</i>

564
00:14:53,967 --> 00:14:57,033
<i>to get himself ready--</i>

565
00:14:57,100 --> 00:15:00,067
<i>all in the cause of maximizing</i>

566
00:14:57,100 --> 00:15:00,067
<i>his chances of success</i>

567
00:15:00,133 --> 00:15:01,833
<i>in the coming days.</i>

568
00:15:01,900 --> 00:15:06,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

569
00:15:06,633 --> 00:15:07,800
<i>- I have more aches and pains.</i>

570
00:15:07,867 --> 00:15:10,733
I'm in denial of it sometimes,

571
00:15:07,867 --> 00:15:10,733
and I also don't think that

572
00:15:10,800 --> 00:15:12,233
that's just something

573
00:15:10,800 --> 00:15:12,233
you just go,

574
00:15:12,300 --> 00:15:13,233
"Oh, well, that's just

575
00:15:12,300 --> 00:15:13,233
the way it is."

576
00:15:13,300 --> 00:15:14,567
I think you can fix all that.

577
00:15:14,633 --> 00:15:17,933
So to me, all the aches

578
00:15:14,633 --> 00:15:17,933
and pains are--

579
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:20,400
<i>it's just that reminder that</i>

580
00:15:18,000 --> 00:15:20,400
<i>you gotta set the time aside</i>

581
00:15:20,467 --> 00:15:24,133
and specifically work

582
00:15:20,467 --> 00:15:24,133
on things to get them better.

583
00:15:24,200 --> 00:15:27,767
If I were smart, I would take,

584
00:15:24,200 --> 00:15:27,767
like, three months.

585
00:15:27,833 --> 00:15:29,633
- Off?

586
00:15:27,833 --> 00:15:29,633
- Off.

587
00:15:29,700 --> 00:15:33,433
And just be completely

588
00:15:29,700 --> 00:15:33,433
rehabbing my body, but--

589
00:15:33,500 --> 00:15:34,633
[exhales deeply]

590
00:15:34,700 --> 00:15:36,567
You know how surfing is.

591
00:15:36,633 --> 00:15:40,100
If the waves get good,

592
00:15:36,633 --> 00:15:40,100
we just go surf all day.

593
00:15:40,167 --> 00:15:43,133
It's kind of a problem.

594
00:15:43,200 --> 00:15:45,867
<i>narrator: Among the focuses</i>

595
00:15:43,200 --> 00:15:45,867
<i>on the table tonight,</i>

596
00:15:45,933 --> 00:15:48,800
<i>Slater's right foot--</i>

597
00:15:45,933 --> 00:15:48,800
<i>badly broken two years ago</i>

598
00:15:48,867 --> 00:15:51,767
<i>and twice</i>

599
00:15:48,867 --> 00:15:51,767
<i>surgically repaired since.</i>

600
00:15:51,833 --> 00:15:54,100
- It's breaking.

601
00:15:51,833 --> 00:15:54,100
Do you feel it?

602
00:15:54,167 --> 00:15:56,067
- No, it does feel softer

603
00:15:54,167 --> 00:15:56,067
than the first session.

604
00:15:56,133 --> 00:15:57,633
- Oh, my God.

605
00:15:56,133 --> 00:15:57,633
The first time was like a rock.

606
00:15:57,700 --> 00:15:59,100
- That thing--yeah,

607
00:15:57,700 --> 00:15:59,100
'cause that ligament there

608
00:15:59,167 --> 00:16:02,100
on top of the foot got so

609
00:15:59,167 --> 00:16:02,100
locked up into the scar tissue

610
00:16:02,167 --> 00:16:03,233
after the surgery.

611
00:16:03,300 --> 00:16:05,867
I lost the sensation

612
00:16:03,300 --> 00:16:05,867
to my three middle toes

613
00:16:05,933 --> 00:16:07,600
for, like, six months.

614
00:16:07,667 --> 00:16:09,167
<i>♪ ♪</i>

615
00:16:09,233 --> 00:16:11,833
But it's coming back.

616
00:16:11,900 --> 00:16:13,100
<i>There's that battle</i>

617
00:16:11,900 --> 00:16:13,100
<i>against time.</i>

618
00:16:13,167 --> 00:16:14,533
<i>There's that battle against</i>

619
00:16:14,600 --> 00:16:15,900
<i>what your body's</i>

620
00:16:14,600 --> 00:16:15,900
<i>letting you do.</i>

621
00:16:15,967 --> 00:16:18,867
But I feel at this point I surf

622
00:16:15,967 --> 00:16:18,867
better than I've ever surfed,

623
00:16:18,933 --> 00:16:21,667
but the body

624
00:16:18,933 --> 00:16:21,667
holds me back sometimes.

625
00:16:21,733 --> 00:16:23,433
- Okay, good luck, Kelly.

626
00:16:23,500 --> 00:16:24,500
- Perfect, thank you.

627
00:16:24,567 --> 00:16:25,500
- You're welcome.

628
00:16:25,567 --> 00:16:28,500
<i>[waves crashing]</i>

629
00:16:33,833 --> 00:16:35,100
<i>- Hey, Billy.</i>

630
00:16:33,833 --> 00:16:35,100
<i>How's it going?</i>

631
00:16:35,167 --> 00:16:36,100
<i>Yeah.</i>

632
00:16:36,167 --> 00:16:38,000
I mean, I saw a couple

633
00:16:36,167 --> 00:16:38,000
in the dark, like,

634
00:16:38,067 --> 00:16:39,967
in the six-foot range,

635
00:16:38,067 --> 00:16:39,967
you know?

636
00:16:40,033 --> 00:16:41,133
It's still

637
00:16:40,033 --> 00:16:41,133
pretty dark on it

638
00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:43,367
but I say we green light it,

639
00:16:41,200 --> 00:16:43,367
we go,

640
00:16:43,433 --> 00:16:46,200
8:00 start and we just

641
00:16:43,433 --> 00:16:46,200
go as long as we can.

642
00:16:48,100 --> 00:16:51,333
<i>narrator: Haleiwa Beach,</i>

643
00:16:48,100 --> 00:16:51,333
<i>6:30 a.m., November 15th.</i>

644
00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:53,333
<i>Competition director</i>

645
00:16:51,400 --> 00:16:53,333
<i>Marty Thomas</i>

646
00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:56,300
<i>has made a judgment call</i>

647
00:16:53,400 --> 00:16:56,300
<i>on the surf outlook,</i>

648
00:16:56,367 --> 00:16:59,133
<i>and day one of the Hawaiian</i>

649
00:16:56,367 --> 00:16:59,133
<i>Pro tournament is underway.</i>

650
00:16:59,200 --> 00:17:00,133
<i>- JD.</i>

651
00:17:00,200 --> 00:17:01,867
Lookin' at a sharp 8:00 start.

652
00:17:01,933 --> 00:17:04,200
And 27-minute heats

653
00:17:01,933 --> 00:17:04,200
the first round.

654
00:17:04,267 --> 00:17:06,600
<i>We've got 13 days</i>

655
00:17:04,267 --> 00:17:06,600
<i>to run the best four</i>

656
00:17:06,667 --> 00:17:08,933
and not every day

657
00:17:06,667 --> 00:17:08,933
is gonna be perfect,

658
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:11,700
<i>so we have to make, uh,</i>

659
00:17:09,000 --> 00:17:11,700
<i>those tough decisions.</i>

660
00:17:11,767 --> 00:17:13,733
<i>I think today,</i>

661
00:17:11,767 --> 00:17:13,733
<i>on a scale of one to ten's</i>

662
00:17:13,800 --> 00:17:16,600
probably a, you know,

663
00:17:13,800 --> 00:17:16,600
good six or seven.

664
00:17:16,667 --> 00:17:18,500
<i>Surf's in the</i>

665
00:17:16,667 --> 00:17:18,500
<i>six-to-eight foot range.</i>

666
00:17:18,567 --> 00:17:20,733
<i>Maybe some ten-footers.</i>

667
00:17:18,567 --> 00:17:20,733
<i>Uh, clean condition.</i>

668
00:17:20,800 --> 00:17:22,267
What's up, Lilly?

669
00:17:22,333 --> 00:17:24,067
It looks pretty good.

670
00:17:24,133 --> 00:17:26,367
We'll do a round of 128,

671
00:17:24,133 --> 00:17:26,367
16 heats.

672
00:17:26,433 --> 00:17:27,967
That's a good-lookin' wave

673
00:17:26,433 --> 00:17:27,967
there.

674
00:17:28,033 --> 00:17:30,133
Stoked.

675
00:17:28,033 --> 00:17:30,133
[chuckles]

676
00:17:30,200 --> 00:17:31,900
<i>- Attention surfers,</i>

677
00:17:30,200 --> 00:17:31,900
<i>counting down.</i>

678
00:17:31,967 --> 00:17:36,700
<i>Five, four, three, two, one,</i>

679
00:17:36,767 --> 00:17:39,233
[horn blasts]

680
00:17:40,400 --> 00:17:41,567
And we are on.

681
00:17:41,633 --> 00:17:43,033
<i>Heat one, round one.</i>

682
00:17:43,100 --> 00:17:45,467
2019 Hawaiian Pro.

683
00:17:45,533 --> 00:17:47,200
[cheers and applause]

684
00:17:47,267 --> 00:17:48,300
<i>narrator:</i>

685
00:17:47,267 --> 00:17:48,300
<i>Because of ever-changing</i>

686
00:17:48,367 --> 00:17:49,500
<i>ocean conditions,</i>

687
00:17:49,567 --> 00:17:53,400
<i>every surfing event has</i>

688
00:17:49,567 --> 00:17:53,400
<i>to have a flexible schedule.</i>

689
00:17:53,467 --> 00:17:56,833
<i>This one is set to crown</i>

690
00:17:53,467 --> 00:17:56,833
<i>a champion in 13 days or less.</i>

691
00:17:56,900 --> 00:17:59,833
<i>- But with those two big</i>

692
00:17:56,900 --> 00:17:59,833
<i>maneuvers on that set wave,</i>

693
00:17:59,900 --> 00:18:01,833
<i>you gotta think</i>

694
00:17:59,900 --> 00:18:01,833
<i>he could possibly</i>

695
00:18:01,900 --> 00:18:03,933
<i>go from third to first.</i>

696
00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:06,333
<i>narrator: That champion</i>

697
00:18:04,000 --> 00:18:06,333
<i>will come out of a field</i>

698
00:18:06,400 --> 00:18:08,800
<i>that includes</i>

699
00:18:06,400 --> 00:18:08,800
<i>North Shore locals</i>

700
00:18:08,867 --> 00:18:10,533
<i>as well as</i>

701
00:18:08,867 --> 00:18:10,533
<i>world-class performers</i>

702
00:18:10,600 --> 00:18:12,533
<i>pointed towards</i>

703
00:18:10,600 --> 00:18:12,533
<i>the Pipe Masters.</i>

704
00:18:13,900 --> 00:18:15,567
<i>As qualifying begins,</i>

705
00:18:15,633 --> 00:18:18,333
<i>there are plenty</i>

706
00:18:15,633 --> 00:18:18,333
<i>of impressive riders,</i>

707
00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:21,933
<i>but also one</i>

708
00:18:18,400 --> 00:18:21,933
<i>conspicuously absent.</i>

709
00:18:23,433 --> 00:18:25,633
<i>Because of his</i>

710
00:18:23,433 --> 00:18:25,633
<i>World Tour ranking,</i>

711
00:18:25,700 --> 00:18:27,467
<i>Kelly Slater doesn't</i>

712
00:18:25,700 --> 00:18:27,467
<i>have to enter the draw</i>

713
00:18:27,533 --> 00:18:29,200
<i>until its third round.</i>

714
00:18:29,267 --> 00:18:32,167
<i>And so while much of the rest</i>

715
00:18:29,267 --> 00:18:32,167
<i>of the field competes,</i>

716
00:18:32,233 --> 00:18:33,667
<i>he's a few miles north</i>

717
00:18:33,733 --> 00:18:35,633
<i>where the waves</i>

718
00:18:33,733 --> 00:18:35,633
<i>are a bit gentler</i>

719
00:18:35,700 --> 00:18:36,767
<i>and he can stay in rhythm</i>

720
00:18:36,833 --> 00:18:39,967
<i>with the ebbs and flows</i>

721
00:18:36,833 --> 00:18:39,967
<i>of Oahu's shoreline.</i>

722
00:18:40,033 --> 00:18:41,100
<i>- You know,</i>

723
00:18:40,033 --> 00:18:41,100
<i>I'm sort of imagining</i>

724
00:18:41,167 --> 00:18:42,567
<i>what would happen</i>

725
00:18:41,167 --> 00:18:42,567
<i>if I got cleaned up.</i>

726
00:18:42,633 --> 00:18:44,600
<i>Am I ready to hold my breath</i>

727
00:18:42,633 --> 00:18:44,600
<i>for a long time?</i>

728
00:18:44,667 --> 00:18:45,800
Go swim under the water.

729
00:18:45,867 --> 00:18:47,733
Use some energy

730
00:18:45,867 --> 00:18:47,733
without getting a breath.

731
00:18:47,800 --> 00:18:49,900
<i>I'm just sort of</i>

732
00:18:47,800 --> 00:18:49,900
<i>feeling it out all the time.</i>

733
00:18:49,967 --> 00:18:52,267
<i>- ♪ You keep your head up ♪</i>

734
00:18:52,333 --> 00:18:54,600
<i>♪ Keeping your pride on ♪</i>

735
00:18:54,667 --> 00:18:57,167
<i>♪ Go live forever ♪</i>

736
00:18:57,233 --> 00:18:59,667
<i>♪ Don't ever</i>

737
00:18:57,233 --> 00:18:59,667
<i>let 'em forget you ♪</i>

738
00:18:59,733 --> 00:19:00,733
<i>- You just have to</i>

739
00:19:00,800 --> 00:19:02,167
<i>constantly have it</i>

740
00:19:00,800 --> 00:19:02,167
<i>in the back of your mind,</i>

741
00:19:02,233 --> 00:19:04,233
<i>'cause even</i>

742
00:19:02,233 --> 00:19:04,233
<i>if it's not massive,</i>

743
00:19:04,300 --> 00:19:05,900
<i>you can still get</i>

744
00:19:04,300 --> 00:19:05,900
<i>a little bit over your head</i>

745
00:19:05,967 --> 00:19:06,967
<i>or get knocked out.</i>

746
00:19:07,033 --> 00:19:09,700
<i>- ♪ Don't ever</i>

747
00:19:07,033 --> 00:19:09,700
<i>let 'em forget you ♪</i>

748
00:19:09,767 --> 00:19:10,833
<i>narrator:</i>

749
00:19:09,767 --> 00:19:10,833
<i>He's got backup today</i>

750
00:19:10,900 --> 00:19:14,067
<i>in the form of an old friend,</i>

751
00:19:10,900 --> 00:19:14,067
<i>Mark Cunningham,</i>

752
00:19:14,133 --> 00:19:15,967
<i>a retired North Shore</i>

753
00:19:14,133 --> 00:19:15,967
<i>lifeguard</i>

754
00:19:16,033 --> 00:19:17,600
<i>and bodysurfing legend.</i>

755
00:19:17,667 --> 00:19:21,300
- Kelly's just always genuinely

756
00:19:17,667 --> 00:19:21,300
been stoked with the beach

757
00:19:21,367 --> 00:19:22,733
and the shore break

758
00:19:21,367 --> 00:19:22,733
and the waves

759
00:19:22,800 --> 00:19:27,067
and whether it's one foot

760
00:19:22,800 --> 00:19:27,067
or whether it's 20 or 30 feet

761
00:19:27,133 --> 00:19:30,133
it's a playground

762
00:19:27,133 --> 00:19:30,133
for him to play.

763
00:19:30,200 --> 00:19:32,933
<i>- ♪ It's all right,</i>

764
00:19:30,200 --> 00:19:32,933
<i>it's okay ♪</i>

765
00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:34,600
<i>- Even though I'm going out,</i>

766
00:19:33,000 --> 00:19:34,600
<i>enjoying myself,</i>

767
00:19:34,667 --> 00:19:35,833
I'm trying to give myself

768
00:19:35,900 --> 00:19:37,900
a little bit of a lesson

769
00:19:35,900 --> 00:19:37,900
and refresher course

770
00:19:37,967 --> 00:19:40,700
in how the currents move,

771
00:19:37,967 --> 00:19:40,700
where the rocks are,

772
00:19:40,767 --> 00:19:42,900
<i>how my breath hold feels,</i>

773
00:19:40,767 --> 00:19:42,900
<i>how my swimming feels,</i>

774
00:19:42,967 --> 00:19:45,267
<i>if my body feels like</i>

775
00:19:42,967 --> 00:19:45,267
<i>it's hurting anywhere</i>

776
00:19:45,333 --> 00:19:46,700
<i>or if I feel in good shape.</i>

777
00:19:46,767 --> 00:19:48,867
<i>♪ ♪</i>

778
00:19:48,933 --> 00:19:50,367
<i>These are perfect days</i>

779
00:19:48,933 --> 00:19:50,367
<i>to go for a little swim.</i>

780
00:19:50,433 --> 00:19:53,933
<i>Just kinda soak up</i>

781
00:19:50,433 --> 00:19:53,933
<i>this weather and relax.</i>

782
00:19:54,000 --> 00:19:57,200
It's like the calm

783
00:19:54,000 --> 00:19:57,200
before the storm right now, so

784
00:19:57,267 --> 00:19:58,933
<i>gotta soak up these days</i>

785
00:19:57,267 --> 00:19:58,933
<i>while we got 'em.</i>

786
00:20:03,700 --> 00:20:06,633
<i>[laid-back Hawaiian music]</i>

787
00:20:06,700 --> 00:20:10,367
<i>♪ ♪</i>

788
00:20:10,433 --> 00:20:12,233
<i>narrator: Among the charms</i>

789
00:20:10,433 --> 00:20:12,233
<i>of this particular beach</i>

790
00:20:12,300 --> 00:20:14,733
<i>for Slater is its convenience.</i>

791
00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:16,767
<i>The home he's owned</i>

792
00:20:14,800 --> 00:20:16,767
<i>for the past decade</i>

793
00:20:16,833 --> 00:20:19,767
<i>is just steps away</i>

794
00:20:16,833 --> 00:20:19,767
<i>from the water.</i>

795
00:20:19,833 --> 00:20:21,867
<i>As for the interior décor,</i>

796
00:20:21,933 --> 00:20:24,533
<i>it's a reflection</i>

797
00:20:21,933 --> 00:20:24,533
<i>of his professional history</i>

798
00:20:24,600 --> 00:20:26,700
<i>and his personal sensibility.</i>

799
00:20:26,767 --> 00:20:27,867
<i>- This one's a little funny</i>

800
00:20:27,933 --> 00:20:30,533
'cause I became friends

801
00:20:27,933 --> 00:20:30,533
with Bill Murray through golf,

802
00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:32,867
and Bill Murray

803
00:20:30,600 --> 00:20:32,867
has some surf history.

804
00:20:32,933 --> 00:20:34,400
He learned to surf in Bali.

805
00:20:34,467 --> 00:20:38,067
I sent a picture of this board

806
00:20:34,467 --> 00:20:38,067
to Bill and he wrote me back.

807
00:20:38,133 --> 00:20:39,900
He said, "That guy looks

808
00:20:38,133 --> 00:20:39,900
like he needs a leash."

809
00:20:39,967 --> 00:20:41,033
This is my favorite.

810
00:20:41,100 --> 00:20:42,900
This is the cock rock...

811
00:20:42,967 --> 00:20:44,833
[chuckling]

812
00:20:42,967 --> 00:20:44,833
For obvious reasons.

813
00:20:44,900 --> 00:20:47,900
Somebody broke into my house

814
00:20:44,900 --> 00:20:47,900
and they used this rock.

815
00:20:47,967 --> 00:20:50,700
Broke into my house

816
00:20:47,967 --> 00:20:50,700
and stole everything that year.

817
00:20:50,767 --> 00:20:52,100
[chuckles]

818
00:20:52,167 --> 00:20:53,100
I was really pissed

819
00:20:52,167 --> 00:20:53,100
at the time,

820
00:20:53,167 --> 00:20:54,500
but I actually think

821
00:20:53,167 --> 00:20:54,500
it's funny.

822
00:20:54,567 --> 00:20:55,733
I hope it doesn't

823
00:20:54,567 --> 00:20:55,733
happen again,

824
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:58,500
but yeah, they used my cock

825
00:20:55,800 --> 00:20:58,500
rock to break into the house.

826
00:20:58,567 --> 00:21:02,467
These are three of my trophies

827
00:20:58,567 --> 00:21:02,467
from Pipe Masters wins.

828
00:21:02,533 --> 00:21:04,200
Best trophy in surfing.

829
00:21:04,267 --> 00:21:05,233
If I win this year,

830
00:21:04,267 --> 00:21:05,233
it's just gonna go

831
00:21:05,300 --> 00:21:07,133
right next to that one.

832
00:21:07,200 --> 00:21:09,200
This picture kinda haunts me

833
00:21:09,267 --> 00:21:11,267
because...

834
00:21:11,333 --> 00:21:13,833
I think it was the best wave

835
00:21:11,333 --> 00:21:13,833
I've ever seen at Pipeline

836
00:21:13,900 --> 00:21:15,633
and I could've caught it.

837
00:21:15,700 --> 00:21:16,933
This wave was coming

838
00:21:15,700 --> 00:21:16,933
and I was like,

839
00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:19,000
"This is the wave I've waited

840
00:21:17,000 --> 00:21:19,000
my whole life for.

841
00:21:19,067 --> 00:21:20,167
That's the one."

842
00:21:20,233 --> 00:21:21,167
And I just couldn't figure out

843
00:21:21,233 --> 00:21:23,033
how to catch it

844
00:21:21,233 --> 00:21:23,033
and not kill myself.

845
00:21:23,100 --> 00:21:24,033
That's a reminder.

846
00:21:24,100 --> 00:21:26,400
Every time you go out there

847
00:21:26,467 --> 00:21:28,033
make sure if that wave

848
00:21:26,467 --> 00:21:28,033
ever comes your way,

849
00:21:28,100 --> 00:21:29,333
you don't miss it.

850
00:21:29,400 --> 00:21:30,667
But that's one

851
00:21:29,400 --> 00:21:30,667
of the best waves

852
00:21:30,733 --> 00:21:31,800
I've ever seen

853
00:21:30,733 --> 00:21:31,800
in my whole life.

854
00:21:31,867 --> 00:21:33,567
<i>[Don Ho's</i>

855
00:21:31,867 --> 00:21:33,567
<i>"You'll Never Go Home"</i>

856
00:21:33,633 --> 00:21:40,333
<i>- ♪ Find enchantment ♪</i>

857
00:21:40,400 --> 00:21:46,733
<i>♪ In the islands ♪</i>

858
00:21:46,800 --> 00:21:48,633
<i>♪ ♪</i>

859
00:21:48,700 --> 00:21:50,233
<i>♪ And you'll never go home ♪</i>

860
00:21:50,300 --> 00:21:51,900
<i>♪ Hey-uh, hey-uh ♪</i>

861
00:21:51,967 --> 00:21:53,567
<i>♪ No, you'll never go home ♪</i>

862
00:21:53,633 --> 00:21:54,733
<i>♪ ♪</i>

863
00:21:54,800 --> 00:21:58,367
<i>- ♪ Don't let the starlight</i>

864
00:21:54,800 --> 00:21:58,367
<i>get in your eye ♪</i>

865
00:21:58,433 --> 00:22:01,733
<i>♪ Don't let a beachboy</i>

866
00:21:58,433 --> 00:22:01,733
<i>whisper you lies ♪</i>

867
00:22:01,800 --> 00:22:05,100
<i>♪ Don't hold his hand</i>

868
00:22:01,800 --> 00:22:05,100
<i>'neath tropical skies ♪</i>

869
00:22:05,167 --> 00:22:07,267
<i>♪ Or you'll never go home ♪</i>

870
00:22:07,333 --> 00:22:08,800
<i>♪ ♪</i>

871
00:22:08,867 --> 00:22:10,400
<i>- ♪ No, you'll never go home ♪</i>

872
00:22:10,467 --> 00:22:11,800
<i>♪ ♪</i>

873
00:22:11,867 --> 00:22:15,033
<i>♪ Don't drink a mai tai</i>

874
00:22:11,867 --> 00:22:15,033
<i>under the moon ♪</i>

875
00:22:15,100 --> 00:22:16,567
<i>♪ Don't go out walking ♪</i>

876
00:22:16,633 --> 00:22:18,233
<i>narrator:</i>

877
00:22:16,633 --> 00:22:18,233
<i>Hawaii has long been a place</i>

878
00:22:18,300 --> 00:22:20,133
<i>that embraces</i>

879
00:22:18,300 --> 00:22:20,133
<i>the sense of escape</i>

880
00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:22,300
<i>it can offer to visitors.</i>

881
00:22:22,367 --> 00:22:25,733
<i>The idea is to enchant you,</i>

882
00:22:22,367 --> 00:22:25,733
<i>to all but dare you</i>

883
00:22:25,800 --> 00:22:28,667
<i>to claim life</i>

884
00:22:25,800 --> 00:22:28,667
<i>to be better anywhere else.</i>

885
00:22:28,733 --> 00:22:32,600
<i>- ♪ No, you'll never go home ♪</i>

886
00:22:32,667 --> 00:22:36,367
<i>[suspenseful music]</i>

887
00:22:36,433 --> 00:22:38,533
<i>narrator: Every dream</i>

888
00:22:36,433 --> 00:22:38,533
<i>that's brought someone here</i>

889
00:22:38,600 --> 00:22:41,433
<i>could tell its own story--</i>

890
00:22:41,500 --> 00:22:43,900
<i>including the one that</i>

891
00:22:41,500 --> 00:22:43,900
<i>belonged to the kid</i>

892
00:22:43,967 --> 00:22:45,467
<i>who had a remarkable drive</i>

893
00:22:45,533 --> 00:22:48,400
<i>to conquer any and every</i>

894
00:22:45,533 --> 00:22:48,400
<i>objective in front of him.</i>

895
00:22:48,467 --> 00:22:51,833
<i>♪ ♪</i>

896
00:22:51,900 --> 00:22:55,400
<i>- I've always had this</i>

897
00:22:51,900 --> 00:22:55,400
<i>relentless, undying desire</i>

898
00:22:55,467 --> 00:22:58,967
<i>to be the best</i>

899
00:22:55,467 --> 00:22:58,967
<i>at whatever I do.</i>

900
00:22:59,033 --> 00:23:00,867
<i>It--when I do look back</i>

901
00:22:59,033 --> 00:23:00,867
<i>and try to sort of</i>

902
00:23:00,933 --> 00:23:03,467
<i>psychoanalyze the whole thing</i>

903
00:23:00,933 --> 00:23:03,467
<i>and pull it apart</i>

904
00:23:03,533 --> 00:23:05,500
<i>there's just a lot</i>

905
00:23:03,533 --> 00:23:05,500
<i>that went into it, you know?</i>

906
00:23:05,567 --> 00:23:07,133
<i>I come from a small town</i>

907
00:23:05,567 --> 00:23:07,133
<i>on the East Coast</i>

908
00:23:07,200 --> 00:23:08,433
<i>that didn't have many waves</i>

909
00:23:08,500 --> 00:23:10,667
<i>so I had a little bit of this,</i>

910
00:23:08,500 --> 00:23:10,667
<i>like, small man syndrome</i>

911
00:23:10,733 --> 00:23:14,333
<i>like I gotta prove myself--</i>

912
00:23:10,733 --> 00:23:14,333
<i>a little chip on my shoulder.</i>

913
00:23:14,400 --> 00:23:17,600
<i>We were lower-middle class.</i>

914
00:23:17,667 --> 00:23:20,633
<i>My dad was an alcoholic.</i>

915
00:23:17,667 --> 00:23:20,633
<i>Drank a ton.</i>

916
00:23:20,700 --> 00:23:22,933
My parents were fighting

917
00:23:20,700 --> 00:23:22,933
all the time.

918
00:23:23,000 --> 00:23:23,933
You know, there was a lot

919
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:26,633
of drama and instability

920
00:23:24,000 --> 00:23:26,633
in my household.

921
00:23:26,700 --> 00:23:30,200
Uh, I was a younger brother

922
00:23:26,700 --> 00:23:30,200
to--to Sean.

923
00:23:30,267 --> 00:23:32,067
And--and the fact that

924
00:23:30,267 --> 00:23:32,067
I hung out with him a lot

925
00:23:32,133 --> 00:23:33,833
<i>and his friends</i>

926
00:23:32,133 --> 00:23:33,833
<i>who were all older</i>

927
00:23:33,900 --> 00:23:35,367
<i>and better at me</i>

928
00:23:33,900 --> 00:23:35,367
<i>than sort of everything.</i>

929
00:23:35,433 --> 00:23:36,367
<i>They were stronger, faster,</i>

930
00:23:36,433 --> 00:23:38,067
<i>surfed better than me,</i>

931
00:23:36,433 --> 00:23:38,067
<i>et cetera.</i>

932
00:23:38,133 --> 00:23:40,900
<i>I had to kind of be on a level</i>

933
00:23:38,133 --> 00:23:40,900
<i>that was years ahead of me</i>

934
00:23:40,967 --> 00:23:43,233
<i>in order to hang</i>

935
00:23:40,967 --> 00:23:43,233
<i>with those guys.</i>

936
00:23:43,300 --> 00:23:45,233
<i>♪ ♪</i>

937
00:23:45,300 --> 00:23:46,333
I've always kinda, like,

938
00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:47,533
dreamt a lot bigger

939
00:23:46,400 --> 00:23:47,533
than the small town I'm from,

940
00:23:47,600 --> 00:23:49,167
even though

941
00:23:47,600 --> 00:23:49,167
I love my little town.

942
00:23:49,233 --> 00:23:51,033
But I wanted to get out

943
00:23:49,233 --> 00:23:51,033
and experience the world

944
00:23:51,100 --> 00:23:54,200
and I--I feel like this sort of

945
00:23:51,100 --> 00:23:54,200
recipe all came together for me

946
00:23:54,267 --> 00:23:57,400
and created this mind-set.

947
00:23:57,467 --> 00:23:58,433
<i>And a lot of that was from</i>

948
00:23:58,500 --> 00:24:00,367
<i>things I couldn't have</i>

949
00:23:58,500 --> 00:24:00,367
<i>as a kid,</i>

950
00:24:00,433 --> 00:24:04,700
<i>and I found the thing I'm best</i>

951
00:24:00,433 --> 00:24:04,700
<i>at and what I love the most,</i>

952
00:24:04,767 --> 00:24:08,433
<i>so surfing provided all these</i>

953
00:24:04,767 --> 00:24:08,433
<i>opportunities for me.</i>

954
00:24:08,500 --> 00:24:11,067
[waves crashing]

955
00:24:11,133 --> 00:24:14,433
[birds singing]

956
00:24:14,500 --> 00:24:16,633
[rooster crows]

957
00:24:22,667 --> 00:24:23,700
<i>narrator:</i>

958
00:24:22,667 --> 00:24:23,700
<i>Surfers tend to be</i>

959
00:24:23,767 --> 00:24:25,733
<i>well-acquainted</i>

960
00:24:23,767 --> 00:24:25,733
<i>with pre-dawn hours.</i>

961
00:24:25,800 --> 00:24:27,133
- [whistles]

962
00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:29,167
<i>narrator: And for</i>

963
00:24:27,200 --> 00:24:29,167
<i>Kelly Slater early today</i>

964
00:24:29,233 --> 00:24:30,833
<i>there's a packing list</i>

965
00:24:29,233 --> 00:24:30,833
<i>to fulfill</i>

966
00:24:30,900 --> 00:24:33,167
<i>before he heads to the water</i>

967
00:24:30,900 --> 00:24:33,167
<i>at Haleiwa</i>

968
00:24:33,233 --> 00:24:35,833
<i>for his first heat in</i>

969
00:24:33,233 --> 00:24:35,833
<i>the Hawaiian Pro tournament.</i>

970
00:24:35,900 --> 00:24:39,133
- I'm gonna take four boards.

971
00:24:39,200 --> 00:24:41,367
Um--

972
00:24:41,433 --> 00:24:44,000
just to give me a little

973
00:24:41,433 --> 00:24:44,000
variety potential--

974
00:24:44,067 --> 00:24:45,000
what the waves are gonna do,

975
00:24:45,067 --> 00:24:48,167
so this board is, uh,

976
00:24:48,233 --> 00:24:51,833
what I've been riding mostly

977
00:24:48,233 --> 00:24:51,833
for the last couple years.

978
00:24:51,900 --> 00:24:55,033
These are both boards

979
00:24:51,900 --> 00:24:55,033
from local shapers,

980
00:24:55,100 --> 00:24:57,000
buddies of mine.

981
00:24:57,067 --> 00:24:59,667
This board I've had

982
00:24:57,067 --> 00:24:59,667
a lot of success on this year.

983
00:24:59,733 --> 00:25:00,667
It's uh--

984
00:25:00,733 --> 00:25:02,233
my friend Akila made it

985
00:25:02,300 --> 00:25:03,967
and it's just one

986
00:25:02,300 --> 00:25:03,967
of those boards you jump on.

987
00:25:04,033 --> 00:25:06,167
It just feels really good

988
00:25:04,033 --> 00:25:06,167
under your feet.

989
00:25:06,233 --> 00:25:10,133
So good chance I'll ride

990
00:25:06,233 --> 00:25:10,133
that board this morning.

991
00:25:10,200 --> 00:25:11,367
You know,

992
00:25:10,200 --> 00:25:11,367
a board feeling good--

993
00:25:11,433 --> 00:25:14,900
it's just a combination

994
00:25:11,433 --> 00:25:14,900
of a bunch of things that

995
00:25:14,967 --> 00:25:16,800
sometimes you can't really

996
00:25:14,967 --> 00:25:16,800
put your finger on,

997
00:25:16,867 --> 00:25:20,167
but it's the planing surface,

998
00:25:16,867 --> 00:25:20,167
just the flex of the board,

999
00:25:20,233 --> 00:25:21,600
the--the template, the shape,

1000
00:25:21,667 --> 00:25:23,400
the fins, it's kind of

1001
00:25:21,667 --> 00:25:23,400
the combination of everything

1002
00:25:23,467 --> 00:25:25,933
coming together on a board

1003
00:25:23,467 --> 00:25:25,933
that makes it good.

1004
00:25:26,000 --> 00:25:27,700
And sometimes you can

1005
00:25:26,000 --> 00:25:27,700
look at two boards--

1006
00:25:27,767 --> 00:25:31,167
they look exactly the same

1007
00:25:27,767 --> 00:25:31,167
and one works and one sucks.

1008
00:25:32,067 --> 00:25:38,233
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1009
00:25:40,667 --> 00:25:45,400
<i>narrator: The breakfast menu</i>

1010
00:25:40,667 --> 00:25:45,400
<i>is a study in nutritious fuel,</i>

1011
00:25:45,467 --> 00:25:47,667
<i>but just as meal prep</i>

1012
00:25:45,467 --> 00:25:47,667
<i>is complete</i>

1013
00:25:47,733 --> 00:25:50,700
<i>comes a message</i>

1014
00:25:47,733 --> 00:25:50,700
<i>from down at the beach.</i>

1015
00:25:50,767 --> 00:25:53,667
<i>Like so many other times</i>

1016
00:25:50,767 --> 00:25:53,667
<i>in so many other contests,</i>

1017
00:25:53,733 --> 00:25:55,667
<i>mother nature has spoken.</i>

1018
00:25:55,733 --> 00:25:57,267
<i>The waves at Haleiwa</i>

1019
00:25:57,333 --> 00:25:59,900
<i>are no longer suitable</i>

1020
00:25:57,333 --> 00:25:59,900
<i>for competition.</i>

1021
00:25:59,967 --> 00:26:02,933
- 6:47--"We are off

1022
00:25:59,967 --> 00:26:02,933
today and tomorrow.

1023
00:26:03,000 --> 00:26:05,533
Next call Wednesday, 7:00 a.m."

1024
00:26:05,600 --> 00:26:07,900
And that's that.

1025
00:26:07,967 --> 00:26:09,433
Going back to bed.

1026
00:26:09,500 --> 00:26:11,633
[chuckles]

1027
00:26:11,700 --> 00:26:14,267
<i>[energetic alternative music]</i>

1028
00:26:14,333 --> 00:26:16,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1029
00:26:16,633 --> 00:26:20,033
<i>narrator: What the conditions</i>

1030
00:26:16,633 --> 00:26:20,033
<i>taketh away, they giveth back.</i>

1031
00:26:20,100 --> 00:26:22,833
<i>Just because he can't surf</i>

1032
00:26:20,100 --> 00:26:22,833
<i>the next two days</i>

1033
00:26:22,900 --> 00:26:24,267
<i>doesn't mean he can't play.</i>

1034
00:26:24,333 --> 00:26:25,667
- Nice putt. All right.

1035
00:26:25,733 --> 00:26:27,033
Well, he's good at golf.

1036
00:26:27,100 --> 00:26:28,033
<i>narrator: It wasn't hard</i>

1037
00:26:28,100 --> 00:26:29,567
<i>to scrounge up</i>

1038
00:26:28,100 --> 00:26:29,567
<i>a few playing partners</i>

1039
00:26:29,633 --> 00:26:32,533
<i>for 18 holes</i>

1040
00:26:29,633 --> 00:26:32,533
<i>at a nearby course,</i>

1041
00:26:32,600 --> 00:26:34,333
<i>and they're both</i>

1042
00:26:32,600 --> 00:26:34,333
<i>familiar faces</i>

1043
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:36,267
<i>in the North Shore</i>

1044
00:26:34,400 --> 00:26:36,267
<i>surf community.</i>

1045
00:26:36,333 --> 00:26:38,033
- Watch this shit.

1046
00:26:38,100 --> 00:26:40,300
<i>narrator: Abe Lerner</i>

1047
00:26:38,100 --> 00:26:40,300
<i>is a former lifeguard</i>

1048
00:26:40,367 --> 00:26:41,800
<i>who spent</i>

1049
00:26:40,367 --> 00:26:41,800
<i>more than two decades</i>

1050
00:26:41,867 --> 00:26:44,300
<i>keeping the beaches here safe,</i>

1051
00:26:44,367 --> 00:26:46,233
<i>though he evidently</i>

1052
00:26:44,367 --> 00:26:46,233
<i>never quite managed</i>

1053
00:26:46,300 --> 00:26:47,733
<i>to perfect his golf swing.</i>

1054
00:26:47,800 --> 00:26:48,867
- Kelly.

1055
00:26:48,933 --> 00:26:51,500
<i>narrator: Benji Weatherly</i>

1056
00:26:48,933 --> 00:26:51,500
<i>is a former pro surfer.</i>

1057
00:26:51,567 --> 00:26:52,767
- That's why you guys

1058
00:26:51,567 --> 00:26:52,767
wanted me to do it,

1059
00:26:52,833 --> 00:26:55,767
you wanted him to hit the most

1060
00:26:52,833 --> 00:26:55,767
perfect shot down the middle.

1061
00:26:55,833 --> 00:26:57,167
Damn it.

1062
00:26:57,233 --> 00:26:58,900
<i>narrator: Whose family's house</i>

1063
00:26:57,233 --> 00:26:58,900
<i>on Pipeline</i>

1064
00:26:58,967 --> 00:27:01,733
<i>served as the home base</i>

1065
00:26:58,967 --> 00:27:01,733
<i>and heartbeat for Slater</i>

1066
00:27:01,800 --> 00:27:03,533
<i>and a wide group</i>

1067
00:27:01,800 --> 00:27:03,533
<i>of their surfing friends</i>

1068
00:27:03,600 --> 00:27:04,867
<i>as they grew up.</i>

1069
00:27:04,933 --> 00:27:07,467
- I dare this ball

1070
00:27:04,933 --> 00:27:07,467
to go where I want.

1071
00:27:07,533 --> 00:27:09,533
It's the only sport I can play

1072
00:27:07,533 --> 00:27:09,533
as good as him.

1073
00:27:09,600 --> 00:27:10,833
Like, at surfing I'm like,

1074
00:27:10,900 --> 00:27:13,167
"You're so much better.

1075
00:27:10,900 --> 00:27:13,167
Fuck it."

1076
00:27:13,233 --> 00:27:14,533
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1077
00:27:14,600 --> 00:27:16,233
- Kinda fast, gotta turn.

1078
00:27:16,300 --> 00:27:17,900
Oh!

1079
00:27:17,967 --> 00:27:19,433
- Nice shot, Kell.

1080
00:27:19,500 --> 00:27:21,767
- Not bad for the fifth take.

1081
00:27:19,500 --> 00:27:21,767
- Whoo-hoo!

1082
00:27:21,833 --> 00:27:22,967
<i>narrator:</i>

1083
00:27:21,833 --> 00:27:22,967
<i>It's just supposed to be</i>

1084
00:27:23,033 --> 00:27:26,633
<i>a fun afternoon on the links,</i>

1085
00:27:23,033 --> 00:27:26,633
<i>the mood hardly intense.</i>

1086
00:27:26,700 --> 00:27:28,300
- Go on.

1087
00:27:28,367 --> 00:27:29,933
<i>narrator:</i>

1088
00:27:28,367 --> 00:27:29,933
<i>But make no mistake,</i>

1089
00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:32,033
<i>Kelly Slater</i>

1090
00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:32,033
<i>is a pro-am regular</i>

1091
00:27:32,100 --> 00:27:33,933
<i>with a single-digit handicap</i>

1092
00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:36,800
<i>whose competitiveness</i>

1093
00:27:34,000 --> 00:27:36,800
<i>is unextinguishable.</i>

1094
00:27:36,867 --> 00:27:38,767
- Oh, you dipshit.

1095
00:27:38,833 --> 00:27:40,267
What a bad swing.

1096
00:27:40,333 --> 00:27:41,600
- Guy's competitive, you know.

1097
00:27:41,667 --> 00:27:43,333
- You know he wants

1098
00:27:41,667 --> 00:27:43,333
to beat me so bad.

1099
00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:45,533
- Closest to the pin

1100
00:27:43,400 --> 00:27:45,533
gets a grand.

1101
00:27:46,933 --> 00:27:49,033
- Oh, no.

1102
00:27:46,933 --> 00:27:49,033
That could be really good.

1103
00:27:49,100 --> 00:27:50,067
- Pretty good.

1104
00:27:50,133 --> 00:27:51,167
- Oh, come on.

1105
00:27:50,133 --> 00:27:51,167
Don't do it!

1106
00:27:51,233 --> 00:27:52,367
- Go in the hole!

1107
00:27:51,233 --> 00:27:52,367
[grunts]

1108
00:27:52,433 --> 00:27:53,633
- Fuck you.

1109
00:27:54,400 --> 00:27:55,667
All right, now skip up.

1110
00:27:55,733 --> 00:27:57,467
- No, it's gonna stop short.

1111
00:27:55,733 --> 00:27:57,467
- Oh, no, the grass?

1112
00:27:57,533 --> 00:27:59,500
- Is it really?

1113
00:27:57,533 --> 00:27:59,500
- It grabbed? Come on.

1114
00:27:59,567 --> 00:28:01,533
- Too much action, guys.

1115
00:27:59,567 --> 00:28:01,533
Ugh!

1116
00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:03,633
- How long have we been

1117
00:28:01,600 --> 00:28:03,633
betting for and not paying Ben?

1118
00:28:03,700 --> 00:28:04,633
Like 20 years?

1119
00:28:04,700 --> 00:28:05,633
- Oh, yeah.

1120
00:28:04,700 --> 00:28:05,633
- Ten years?

1121
00:28:05,700 --> 00:28:07,567
- I keep it on my phone,

1122
00:28:05,700 --> 00:28:07,567
though, in the notes.

1123
00:28:07,633 --> 00:28:08,567
- Cool.

1124
00:28:08,633 --> 00:28:10,800
- Just kidding.

1125
00:28:08,633 --> 00:28:10,800
[laughter]

1126
00:28:12,400 --> 00:28:15,267
- Yeah, turn.

1127
00:28:12,400 --> 00:28:15,267
Stay, turn, go, yeah.

1128
00:28:15,333 --> 00:28:16,333
- He makes everything.

1129
00:28:16,400 --> 00:28:18,933
<i>narrator: As another day</i>

1130
00:28:16,400 --> 00:28:18,933
<i>draws to a close,</i>

1131
00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:21,167
<i>chalk up another win</i>

1132
00:28:19,000 --> 00:28:21,167
<i>for Kelly Slater.</i>

1133
00:28:21,233 --> 00:28:22,200
- Hey, you guys.

1134
00:28:21,233 --> 00:28:22,200
- Get that?

1135
00:28:22,267 --> 00:28:23,767
- Kelly, what'd you shoot?

1136
00:28:23,833 --> 00:28:26,000
- I dropped 68.

1137
00:28:26,067 --> 00:28:27,233
- I can't even

1138
00:28:26,067 --> 00:28:27,233
get this off now.

1139
00:28:27,300 --> 00:28:28,367
- [laughs]

1140
00:28:28,433 --> 00:28:30,800
<i>- Feels good.</i>

1141
00:28:28,433 --> 00:28:30,800
<i>I mean, that's really good.</i>

1142
00:28:30,867 --> 00:28:33,800
<i>[light music]</i>

1143
00:28:33,867 --> 00:28:37,667
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1144
00:28:37,733 --> 00:28:39,900
<i>narrator: There are only</i>

1145
00:28:37,733 --> 00:28:39,900
<i>so many places on Earth</i>

1146
00:28:39,967 --> 00:28:44,200
<i>where nature's beauty is as</i>

1147
00:28:39,967 --> 00:28:44,200
<i>dazzling as it is at Pipeline.</i>

1148
00:28:44,267 --> 00:28:45,633
<i>That splendor is what makes</i>

1149
00:28:45,700 --> 00:28:47,367
<i>the idea</i>

1150
00:28:45,700 --> 00:28:47,367
<i>of surfing these waves</i>

1151
00:28:47,433 --> 00:28:50,400
<i>so irresistibly tantalizing</i>

1152
00:28:47,433 --> 00:28:50,400
<i>to the best in the world.</i>

1153
00:28:50,467 --> 00:28:52,400
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1154
00:28:52,467 --> 00:28:55,933
<i>Even as it is also what makes</i>

1155
00:28:52,467 --> 00:28:55,933
<i>them so very dangerous.</i>

1156
00:28:56,033 --> 00:28:58,467
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1157
00:28:58,533 --> 00:29:01,533
<i>The size of the waves,</i>

1158
00:28:58,533 --> 00:29:01,533
<i>reaching up to 20 feet,</i>

1159
00:29:01,600 --> 00:29:03,867
<i>combined with the shallow,</i>

1160
00:29:01,600 --> 00:29:03,867
<i>cement-like reefs</i>

1161
00:29:03,933 --> 00:29:05,800
<i>hiding below the surface</i>

1162
00:29:05,867 --> 00:29:07,833
<i>mean that the thrill</i>

1163
00:29:05,867 --> 00:29:07,833
<i>of every ride</i>

1164
00:29:07,900 --> 00:29:10,533
<i>is fed by the fear</i>

1165
00:29:07,900 --> 00:29:10,533
<i>of what it could entail.</i>

1166
00:29:10,600 --> 00:29:12,533
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1167
00:29:12,600 --> 00:29:15,533
<i>Everyone part of the scene</i>

1168
00:29:12,600 --> 00:29:15,533
<i>here has mourned the losses</i>

1169
00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:18,900
<i>of friends who've died</i>

1170
00:29:15,600 --> 00:29:18,900
<i>along the North Shore,</i>

1171
00:29:18,967 --> 00:29:20,400
<i>but their memories</i>

1172
00:29:18,967 --> 00:29:20,400
<i>are kept alive</i>

1173
00:29:20,467 --> 00:29:23,167
<i>by surfers like Kelly Slater--</i>

1174
00:29:23,233 --> 00:29:25,700
<i>surfers who never stop</i>

1175
00:29:23,233 --> 00:29:25,700
<i>thinking about them</i>

1176
00:29:25,767 --> 00:29:29,033
<i>and who carry on</i>

1177
00:29:25,767 --> 00:29:29,033
<i>in their honor.</i>

1178
00:29:36,600 --> 00:29:38,833
<i>- Really relax</i>

1179
00:29:36,600 --> 00:29:38,833
<i>your whole body.</i>

1180
00:29:38,900 --> 00:29:40,667
<i>narrator:</i>

1181
00:29:38,900 --> 00:29:40,667
<i>The calmness of other waters</i>

1182
00:29:40,733 --> 00:29:43,067
<i>can provide a program</i>

1183
00:29:40,733 --> 00:29:43,067
<i>of preparation</i>

1184
00:29:43,133 --> 00:29:45,300
<i>for the danger</i>

1185
00:29:43,133 --> 00:29:45,300
<i>that again waits.</i>

1186
00:29:45,367 --> 00:29:46,600
- Focus on every part

1187
00:29:45,367 --> 00:29:46,600
of your body

1188
00:29:46,667 --> 00:29:48,033
that you can just let go of.

1189
00:29:48,100 --> 00:29:49,867
Hands, toes.

1190
00:29:49,933 --> 00:29:50,867
<i>narrator: Mark Visser</i>

1191
00:29:50,933 --> 00:29:53,633
<i>is an Australian</i>

1192
00:29:50,933 --> 00:29:53,633
<i>big wave surfing legend,</i>

1193
00:29:53,700 --> 00:29:56,400
<i>as well as a coach</i>

1194
00:29:53,700 --> 00:29:56,400
<i>who specializes in methods</i>

1195
00:29:56,467 --> 00:29:59,800
<i>to overcome fear</i>

1196
00:29:56,467 --> 00:29:59,800
<i>and submersion.</i>

1197
00:29:59,867 --> 00:30:01,700
<i>- This is more</i>

1198
00:29:59,867 --> 00:30:01,700
<i>of a wipeout scenario.</i>

1199
00:30:01,767 --> 00:30:03,533
So basically as if

1200
00:30:01,767 --> 00:30:03,533
he's just been caught

1201
00:30:03,600 --> 00:30:05,100
and he's being pulled down

1202
00:30:05,167 --> 00:30:06,567
and he's looked up

1203
00:30:05,167 --> 00:30:06,567
and he's gotta swim

1204
00:30:06,633 --> 00:30:08,333
and then he swims, he moves,

1205
00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:10,000
his heart rate's

1206
00:30:08,400 --> 00:30:10,000
coming right up

1207
00:30:10,067 --> 00:30:11,667
and then just before

1208
00:30:10,067 --> 00:30:11,667
he breathes again

1209
00:30:11,733 --> 00:30:14,100
and then he comes back here,

1210
00:30:11,733 --> 00:30:14,100
he's pulled back down again.

1211
00:30:14,167 --> 00:30:15,767
Yes, this is a training drill

1212
00:30:15,833 --> 00:30:17,600
and we can stop at any time

1213
00:30:15,833 --> 00:30:17,600
and pull him up,

1214
00:30:17,667 --> 00:30:19,833
but he just gets used

1215
00:30:17,667 --> 00:30:19,833
to being comfortable

1216
00:30:19,900 --> 00:30:21,200
when it just doesn't feel good

1217
00:30:21,267 --> 00:30:23,167
and that's just what helps him

1218
00:30:21,267 --> 00:30:23,167
process stress

1219
00:30:23,233 --> 00:30:25,867
or any situation

1220
00:30:23,233 --> 00:30:25,867
where fear can creep in.

1221
00:30:29,533 --> 00:30:32,467
<i>[intense percussive music]</i>

1222
00:30:32,533 --> 00:30:39,633
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1223
00:30:43,233 --> 00:30:46,200
<i>narrator: And preparation</i>

1224
00:30:43,233 --> 00:30:46,200
<i>continues on dry land as well.</i>

1225
00:30:46,267 --> 00:30:48,400
- There you go!

1226
00:30:46,267 --> 00:30:48,400
Keep going--there!

1227
00:30:48,467 --> 00:30:51,433
<i>narrator: For 25 years</i>

1228
00:30:48,467 --> 00:30:51,433
<i>Slater has looked to jiujitsu</i>

1229
00:30:51,500 --> 00:30:53,533
<i>as another path</i>

1230
00:30:51,500 --> 00:30:53,533
<i>to merging his mastery</i>

1231
00:30:53,600 --> 00:30:57,367
<i>over his body's movements</i>

1232
00:30:53,600 --> 00:30:57,367
<i>and his mind's focus.</i>

1233
00:30:57,433 --> 00:30:59,533
Break the grip on your collar,

1234
00:30:57,433 --> 00:30:59,533
yeah, watch your feet.

1235
00:30:59,600 --> 00:31:00,833
Push forward.

1236
00:31:00,900 --> 00:31:02,733
<i>- Kelly has amazing balance.</i>

1237
00:31:00,900 --> 00:31:02,733
<i>Go watch him.</i>

1238
00:31:02,800 --> 00:31:04,500
<i>He's really like a cat,</i>

1239
00:31:02,800 --> 00:31:04,500
<i>you know what I mean?</i>

1240
00:31:04,567 --> 00:31:06,667
<i>Most of the guys</i>

1241
00:31:04,567 --> 00:31:06,667
<i>that do jiujitsu surf.</i>

1242
00:31:06,733 --> 00:31:08,467
<i>All the movements</i>

1243
00:31:06,733 --> 00:31:08,467
<i>are real loose</i>

1244
00:31:08,533 --> 00:31:10,300
<i>and loosen</i>

1245
00:31:08,533 --> 00:31:10,300
<i>your joints all up.</i>

1246
00:31:10,367 --> 00:31:12,567
If you learn to deal

1247
00:31:10,367 --> 00:31:12,567
with stress in here

1248
00:31:12,633 --> 00:31:14,733
when you're getting beat up

1249
00:31:12,633 --> 00:31:14,733
in jiujitsu

1250
00:31:14,800 --> 00:31:17,333
it's the same as like when

1251
00:31:14,800 --> 00:31:17,333
you're getting held underwater.

1252
00:31:17,400 --> 00:31:18,533
You wanna do, like, a shaka.

1253
00:31:18,600 --> 00:31:19,733
You want to turn your wrist

1254
00:31:19,800 --> 00:31:22,167
so now you're using

1255
00:31:19,800 --> 00:31:22,167
this bone right here.

1256
00:31:22,233 --> 00:31:24,500
Hand in, turn your wrists--

1257
00:31:22,233 --> 00:31:24,500
shakas.

1258
00:31:24,567 --> 00:31:27,000
Now pull me to you then.

1259
00:31:27,067 --> 00:31:28,000
Crazy, huh?

1260
00:31:28,067 --> 00:31:29,433
- Yeah.

1261
00:31:28,067 --> 00:31:29,433
- Takes no energy.

1262
00:31:29,500 --> 00:31:30,933
- No--there's no--

1263
00:31:29,500 --> 00:31:30,933
there's no energy.

1264
00:31:31,000 --> 00:31:33,500
- Okay, let's line up.

1265
00:31:31,000 --> 00:31:33,500
Everybody line up.

1266
00:31:33,567 --> 00:31:34,733
<i>narrator:</i>

1267
00:31:33,567 --> 00:31:34,733
<i>So the two-day delay</i>

1268
00:31:34,800 --> 00:31:37,400
<i>to his start</i>

1269
00:31:34,800 --> 00:31:37,400
<i>at the Hawaiian Pro at Haleiwa</i>

1270
00:31:37,467 --> 00:31:39,467
<i>has hardly been wasted</i>

1271
00:31:39,533 --> 00:31:42,167
<i>and a promising forecast</i>

1272
00:31:39,533 --> 00:31:42,167
<i>has him once again</i>

1273
00:31:42,233 --> 00:31:44,467
<i>looking ahead hungrily</i>

1274
00:31:42,233 --> 00:31:44,467
<i>to sunrise.</i>

1275
00:31:44,533 --> 00:31:46,167
- I got first heat tomorrow,

1276
00:31:44,533 --> 00:31:46,167
so I'm just like--

1277
00:31:46,233 --> 00:31:47,300
- Oh, unreal.

1278
00:31:47,367 --> 00:31:48,933
Come in here and get beat up

1279
00:31:47,367 --> 00:31:48,933
and then go surf first heat.

1280
00:31:49,000 --> 00:31:50,633
That's the way you do it,

1281
00:31:49,000 --> 00:31:50,633
champ.

1282
00:31:50,700 --> 00:31:52,433
That's how the champ does it.

1283
00:31:53,433 --> 00:31:55,333
[rooster crows]

1284
00:31:55,400 --> 00:31:57,533
[waves crashing]

1285
00:32:01,600 --> 00:32:03,600
<i>narrator: If Kelly Slater's</i>

1286
00:32:01,600 --> 00:32:03,600
<i>commitment to competition</i>

1287
00:32:03,667 --> 00:32:06,733
<i>is remarkable, those who</i>

1288
00:32:03,667 --> 00:32:06,733
<i>know him best will tell you</i>

1289
00:32:06,800 --> 00:32:08,033
<i>he's just as dedicated</i>

1290
00:32:08,100 --> 00:32:10,867
<i>to preserving the ocean</i>

1291
00:32:08,100 --> 00:32:10,867
<i>that's always enthralled him.</i>

1292
00:32:12,267 --> 00:32:14,233
<i>Slater's passion</i>

1293
00:32:12,267 --> 00:32:14,233
<i>for ocean health</i>

1294
00:32:14,300 --> 00:32:16,967
<i>has guided the sustainable</i>

1295
00:32:14,300 --> 00:32:16,967
<i>and environmentally-friendly</i>

1296
00:32:17,033 --> 00:32:19,167
<i>apparel and surfboard</i>

1297
00:32:17,033 --> 00:32:19,167
<i>lines he started,</i>

1298
00:32:19,233 --> 00:32:22,667
<i>among other</i>

1299
00:32:19,233 --> 00:32:22,667
<i>entrepreneurial pursuits.</i>

1300
00:32:22,733 --> 00:32:24,100
<i>Though on a morning like this,</i>

1301
00:32:24,167 --> 00:32:26,633
<i>those business interests</i>

1302
00:32:24,167 --> 00:32:26,633
<i>take a back seat</i>

1303
00:32:26,700 --> 00:32:28,400
<i>to the contest that awaits.</i>

1304
00:32:30,200 --> 00:32:33,033
- I was up from, like,

1305
00:32:30,200 --> 00:32:33,033
2:30 or 3:00 for, like,

1306
00:32:33,100 --> 00:32:34,933
an hour and a half, two hours.

1307
00:32:35,000 --> 00:32:36,200
Then I got up at 6:00.

1308
00:32:36,267 --> 00:32:39,167
Wanted to be up

1309
00:32:36,267 --> 00:32:39,167
two hours beforehand.

1310
00:32:39,233 --> 00:32:41,867
No real rituals.

1311
00:32:41,933 --> 00:32:45,500
Just try

1312
00:32:41,933 --> 00:32:45,500
to get my boards ready.

1313
00:32:45,567 --> 00:32:46,567
And imagine what the weather's

1314
00:32:45,567 --> 00:32:46,567
gonna be.

1315
00:32:46,633 --> 00:32:48,233
It's gonna be big,

1316
00:32:46,633 --> 00:32:48,233
it's gonna be an exciting day.

1317
00:32:48,300 --> 00:32:55,400
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1318
00:32:57,300 --> 00:32:58,367
<i>I surfed the event in Haleiwa</i>

1319
00:32:58,433 --> 00:33:00,433
<i>probably 15 times</i>

1320
00:32:58,433 --> 00:33:00,433
<i>in my career.</i>

1321
00:33:00,500 --> 00:33:03,233
<i>And I've gotten second</i>

1322
00:33:00,500 --> 00:33:03,233
<i>before--I never won it.</i>

1323
00:33:03,300 --> 00:33:06,333
So I don't know

1324
00:33:03,300 --> 00:33:06,333
how many more times

1325
00:33:06,400 --> 00:33:07,733
I'm gonna give myself here.

1326
00:33:07,800 --> 00:33:09,200
This--you know,

1327
00:33:07,800 --> 00:33:09,200
this potentially could be

1328
00:33:09,267 --> 00:33:10,700
the last time

1329
00:33:09,267 --> 00:33:10,700
I surf at this event,

1330
00:33:10,767 --> 00:33:12,833
so yeah, I would love

1331
00:33:10,767 --> 00:33:12,833
to win this thing.

1332
00:33:12,900 --> 00:33:16,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1333
00:33:16,633 --> 00:33:17,767
<i>Haleiwa can be frustrating</i>

1334
00:33:17,833 --> 00:33:19,467
<i>'cause it can get</i>

1335
00:33:17,833 --> 00:33:19,467
<i>really inconsistent.</i>

1336
00:33:19,533 --> 00:33:20,967
It can be in the--

1337
00:33:19,533 --> 00:33:20,967
like, the most rewarding

1338
00:33:21,033 --> 00:33:22,900
and most frustrating wave

1339
00:33:21,033 --> 00:33:22,900
on the North Shore.

1340
00:33:23,000 --> 00:33:26,433
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1341
00:33:26,500 --> 00:33:29,133
<i>narrator: He gets to the</i>

1342
00:33:26,500 --> 00:33:29,133
<i>beach a little after 7:00</i>

1343
00:33:29,200 --> 00:33:31,733
<i>and his long-time girlfriend,</i>

1344
00:33:29,200 --> 00:33:31,733
<i>Kalani Miller,</i>

1345
00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:35,233
<i>will be chief among those</i>

1346
00:33:31,800 --> 00:33:35,233
<i>cheering him all day long.</i>

1347
00:33:35,300 --> 00:33:37,233
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1348
00:33:37,300 --> 00:33:38,300
<i>- The thing about Kalani,</i>

1349
00:33:38,367 --> 00:33:40,200
<i>she's just a really solid</i>

1350
00:33:38,367 --> 00:33:40,200
<i>person, you know?</i>

1351
00:33:40,267 --> 00:33:43,467
<i>She's consistent,</i>

1352
00:33:40,267 --> 00:33:43,467
<i>she's trustworthy.</i>

1353
00:33:43,533 --> 00:33:46,167
The love of travel for both

1354
00:33:43,533 --> 00:33:46,167
of us, the love of food.

1355
00:33:46,233 --> 00:33:49,933
Our dog, um,

1356
00:33:46,233 --> 00:33:49,933
the surf lifestyle,

1357
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:52,967
all those things, they're all

1358
00:33:50,000 --> 00:33:52,967
things that we connect on.

1359
00:33:53,033 --> 00:33:56,200
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1360
00:33:56,267 --> 00:33:59,300
<i>She loves that I'm in love</i>

1361
00:33:56,267 --> 00:33:59,300
<i>with the thing I do.</i>

1362
00:33:59,367 --> 00:34:02,100
<i>And I guess I love that</i>

1363
00:33:59,367 --> 00:34:02,100
<i>about her, you know?</i>

1364
00:34:02,167 --> 00:34:05,233
I think that's

1365
00:34:02,167 --> 00:34:05,233
what you have to do for

1366
00:34:05,300 --> 00:34:06,233
the people

1367
00:34:05,300 --> 00:34:06,233
in your life, you know?

1368
00:34:06,300 --> 00:34:07,800
You have to make

1369
00:34:06,300 --> 00:34:07,800
what's important to them

1370
00:34:07,867 --> 00:34:09,467
<i>important to you as well.</i>

1371
00:34:09,533 --> 00:34:12,767
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1372
00:34:12,833 --> 00:34:15,267
<i>- I always try to give him</i>

1373
00:34:12,833 --> 00:34:15,267
<i>his space, I think.</i>

1374
00:34:15,333 --> 00:34:16,400
<i>Yeah.</i>

1375
00:34:16,467 --> 00:34:18,067
So he can get focused and do

1376
00:34:18,133 --> 00:34:20,600
whatever he has to do to get

1377
00:34:18,133 --> 00:34:20,600
ready and feel mentally ready

1378
00:34:20,667 --> 00:34:24,033
<i>and I try not to interfere too</i>

1379
00:34:20,667 --> 00:34:24,033
<i>much in his morning routine</i>

1380
00:34:24,100 --> 00:34:25,767
or get in the way or--

1381
00:34:25,833 --> 00:34:27,333
just let him have his space.

1382
00:34:27,400 --> 00:34:33,467
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1383
00:34:33,533 --> 00:34:35,400
<i>- 11-time world champion</i>

1384
00:34:33,533 --> 00:34:35,400
<i>Kelly Slater</i>

1385
00:34:35,467 --> 00:34:37,567
<i>from Cocoa Beach, Florida,</i>

1386
00:34:35,467 --> 00:34:37,567
<i>in red.</i>

1387
00:34:37,633 --> 00:34:39,633
<i>narrator: As the contest</i>

1388
00:34:37,633 --> 00:34:39,633
<i>begins its third round</i>

1389
00:34:39,700 --> 00:34:43,133
<i>there are 64 surfers</i>

1390
00:34:39,700 --> 00:34:43,133
<i>left in the draw.</i>

1391
00:34:43,200 --> 00:34:45,267
<i>The competition</i>

1392
00:34:43,200 --> 00:34:45,267
<i>expected to pick up</i>

1393
00:34:45,333 --> 00:34:48,167
<i>with big names like Slater</i>

1394
00:34:45,333 --> 00:34:48,167
<i>now entering the water.</i>

1395
00:34:48,233 --> 00:34:50,233
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1396
00:34:50,300 --> 00:34:52,567
<i>Slater and three other surfers</i>

1397
00:34:50,300 --> 00:34:52,567
<i>will take turns</i>

1398
00:34:52,633 --> 00:34:56,133
<i>catching as many waves as they</i>

1399
00:34:52,633 --> 00:34:56,133
<i>can during the 30-minute heat</i>

1400
00:34:56,200 --> 00:34:59,800
<i>with each ride</i>

1401
00:34:56,200 --> 00:34:59,800
<i>judged individually.</i>

1402
00:34:59,867 --> 00:35:02,433
<i>Their best two scores</i>

1403
00:34:59,867 --> 00:35:02,433
<i>will be added together</i>

1404
00:35:02,500 --> 00:35:04,567
<i>and the top two competitors</i>

1405
00:35:02,500 --> 00:35:04,567
<i>will advance</i>

1406
00:35:04,633 --> 00:35:06,033
<i>to the next round.</i>

1407
00:35:06,100 --> 00:35:08,400
<i>- The GOAT is about to enter</i>

1408
00:35:06,100 --> 00:35:08,400
<i>the lineup.</i>

1409
00:35:08,467 --> 00:35:10,233
<i>We know his history here.</i>

1410
00:35:10,300 --> 00:35:13,200
<i>One of the all-time greats</i>

1411
00:35:10,300 --> 00:35:13,200
<i>at Haleiwa.</i>

1412
00:35:13,267 --> 00:35:17,633
<i>- Kelly Slater attacks it</i>

1413
00:35:13,267 --> 00:35:17,633
<i>vertical on that huge section.</i>

1414
00:35:17,700 --> 00:35:20,167
It's gonna be a good score.

1415
00:35:20,233 --> 00:35:23,300
<i>First opening wave score:</i>

1416
00:35:20,233 --> 00:35:23,300
<i>a 5.4, Kelly.</i>

1417
00:35:23,367 --> 00:35:26,067
<i>Right now he's in second place</i>

1418
00:35:23,367 --> 00:35:26,067
<i>with one scoring ride.</i>

1419
00:35:26,133 --> 00:35:27,300
<i>That's where he needs to be.</i>

1420
00:35:27,367 --> 00:35:30,933
<i>[dramatic music]</i>

1421
00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:32,267
<i>narrator:</i>

1422
00:35:31,000 --> 00:35:32,267
<i>The strong opening wave</i>

1423
00:35:32,333 --> 00:35:35,233
<i>puts him in solid position</i>

1424
00:35:32,333 --> 00:35:35,233
<i>in the heat,</i>

1425
00:35:35,300 --> 00:35:38,867
<i>but his next two attempts fail</i>

1426
00:35:35,300 --> 00:35:38,867
<i>to maintain the momentum.</i>

1427
00:35:38,933 --> 00:35:42,300
<i>- Slater on a huge wave.</i>

1428
00:35:42,367 --> 00:35:43,467
<i>narrator: Then, though,</i>

1429
00:35:43,533 --> 00:35:46,100
<i>not long after</i>

1430
00:35:43,533 --> 00:35:46,100
<i>he falls into third place,</i>

1431
00:35:46,167 --> 00:35:48,333
<i>he provides the crowd</i>

1432
00:35:46,167 --> 00:35:48,333
<i>at Haleiwa</i>

1433
00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:51,367
<i>a reminder of what he</i>

1434
00:35:48,400 --> 00:35:51,367
<i>can still do on a surfboard.</i>

1435
00:35:51,433 --> 00:35:55,433
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1436
00:35:55,500 --> 00:35:58,533
<i>- Here is Kelly Slater</i>

1437
00:35:55,500 --> 00:35:58,533
<i>and he's up and riding--</i>

1438
00:35:58,600 --> 00:36:00,133
<i>nice carve to start off</i>

1439
00:36:00,200 --> 00:36:04,033
<i>and then smacks the lip</i>

1440
00:36:00,200 --> 00:36:04,033
<i>right at it, almost loses it.</i>

1441
00:36:05,500 --> 00:36:07,500
<i>He should've fell</i>

1442
00:36:05,500 --> 00:36:07,500
<i>and went down right there.</i>

1443
00:36:07,567 --> 00:36:09,267
<i>He defied gravity.</i>

1444
00:36:09,333 --> 00:36:13,000
<i>- Kelly Slater: a 6.67.</i>

1445
00:36:09,333 --> 00:36:13,000
<i>You go to first.</i>

1446
00:36:13,067 --> 00:36:15,333
<i>- Kelly Slater,</i>

1447
00:36:13,067 --> 00:36:15,333
<i>a convincing win.</i>

1448
00:36:15,400 --> 00:36:19,167
<i>[waves crashing]</i>

1449
00:36:19,233 --> 00:36:21,233
- Hi, babe.

1450
00:36:19,233 --> 00:36:21,233
[excited babbling]

1451
00:36:21,300 --> 00:36:23,767
- Hi, baby.

1452
00:36:21,300 --> 00:36:23,767
- Hi.

1453
00:36:23,833 --> 00:36:26,200
[indistinct chatter]

1454
00:36:26,267 --> 00:36:27,333
<i>narrator:</i>

1455
00:36:26,267 --> 00:36:27,333
<i>When the heat's over</i>

1456
00:36:27,400 --> 00:36:30,267
<i>Slater has the best</i>

1457
00:36:27,400 --> 00:36:30,267
<i>combined score of his group.</i>

1458
00:36:30,333 --> 00:36:32,433
<i>Much to the delight</i>

1459
00:36:30,333 --> 00:36:32,433
<i>of everyone on the beach,</i>

1460
00:36:32,500 --> 00:36:35,200
<i>he's on safely</i>

1461
00:36:32,500 --> 00:36:35,200
<i>to the next round.</i>

1462
00:36:35,267 --> 00:36:37,033
- Thank you.

1463
00:36:35,267 --> 00:36:37,033
- Okay.

1464
00:36:37,100 --> 00:36:38,733
[indistinct PA announcement]

1465
00:36:38,800 --> 00:36:39,733
- Good job, dog.

1466
00:36:39,800 --> 00:36:41,067
- Kelly, mind

1467
00:36:39,800 --> 00:36:41,067
if I get a picture?

1468
00:36:41,133 --> 00:36:43,433
<i>- How does it feel to be back</i>

1469
00:36:41,133 --> 00:36:43,433
<i>in competition at Haleiwa?</i>

1470
00:36:43,500 --> 00:36:44,633
<i>- It feels great when there's</i>

1471
00:36:44,700 --> 00:36:45,900
a big wet swell like this.

1472
00:36:45,967 --> 00:36:47,600
It feels nice, but you know

1473
00:36:45,967 --> 00:36:47,600
it's the beginning of the swell

1474
00:36:47,667 --> 00:36:49,367
so it's super inconsistent

1475
00:36:47,667 --> 00:36:49,367
right now.

1476
00:36:49,433 --> 00:36:51,400
<i>I think the size'll come up,</i>

1477
00:36:49,433 --> 00:36:51,400
<i>the interval will come down--</i>

1478
00:36:51,467 --> 00:36:53,667
<i>we'll see a lot of good waves</i>

1479
00:36:51,467 --> 00:36:53,667
<i>this afternoon.</i>

1480
00:36:53,733 --> 00:36:59,300
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1481
00:36:59,367 --> 00:37:00,900
<i>narrator: There's a</i>

1482
00:36:59,367 --> 00:37:00,900
<i>five-and-a-half hour wait</i>

1483
00:37:00,967 --> 00:37:02,667
<i>until his next heat.</i>

1484
00:37:02,733 --> 00:37:04,733
<i>Though he's well-acquainted</i>

1485
00:37:02,733 --> 00:37:04,733
<i>with the importance</i>

1486
00:37:04,800 --> 00:37:06,567
<i>of not letting up</i>

1487
00:37:04,800 --> 00:37:06,567
<i>in the interval.</i>

1488
00:37:06,633 --> 00:37:08,933
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1489
00:37:09,000 --> 00:37:10,800
<i>- Another 30-minute heat.</i>

1490
00:37:10,867 --> 00:37:13,833
<i>Top two surfers advance</i>

1491
00:37:10,867 --> 00:37:13,833
<i>into the quarterfinals.</i>

1492
00:37:13,900 --> 00:37:21,000
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1493
00:37:22,033 --> 00:37:23,267
<i>And here goes Kelly.</i>

1494
00:37:23,333 --> 00:37:25,967
<i>Big bottom turn, knifing one</i>

1495
00:37:23,333 --> 00:37:25,967
<i>off the top around the corner.</i>

1496
00:37:26,033 --> 00:37:27,433
<i>Finds more open face</i>

1497
00:37:27,500 --> 00:37:29,500
<i>and then goes hard off the</i>

1498
00:37:27,500 --> 00:37:29,500
<i>bottom, attacks the lip,</i>

1499
00:37:29,567 --> 00:37:31,400
<i>just mind-boggling</i>

1500
00:37:29,567 --> 00:37:31,400
<i>how he's still</i>

1501
00:37:31,467 --> 00:37:34,500
<i>doing it at a level where</i>

1502
00:37:31,467 --> 00:37:34,500
<i>he is top ten in the world.</i>

1503
00:37:34,567 --> 00:37:35,567
<i>narrator: But even if</i>

1504
00:37:35,633 --> 00:37:37,867
<i>the longevity</i>

1505
00:37:35,633 --> 00:37:37,867
<i>of his brilliance is revered,</i>

1506
00:37:37,933 --> 00:37:41,367
<i>the whole point is that these</i>

1507
00:37:37,933 --> 00:37:41,367
<i>waves can humble legends too.</i>

1508
00:37:41,433 --> 00:37:43,367
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1509
00:37:43,433 --> 00:37:46,500
<i>His struggles leave Slater</i>

1510
00:37:43,433 --> 00:37:46,500
<i>at the bottom of his heat,</i>

1511
00:37:46,567 --> 00:37:49,667
<i>and the prospect of an early</i>

1512
00:37:46,567 --> 00:37:49,667
<i>departure from the contest</i>

1513
00:37:49,733 --> 00:37:52,633
<i>is impossible to ignore.</i>

1514
00:37:52,700 --> 00:37:55,100
<i>And as the other surfers keep</i>

1515
00:37:52,700 --> 00:37:55,100
<i>recording high scores...</i>

1516
00:37:55,167 --> 00:37:56,933
<i>- Jacob Wilcox</i>

1517
00:37:55,167 --> 00:37:56,933
<i>off the bottom--</i>

1518
00:37:57,000 --> 00:37:58,867
<i>stabs it in the lip, good job.</i>

1519
00:37:58,933 --> 00:38:01,400
<i>narrator: The task looks</i>

1520
00:37:58,933 --> 00:38:01,400
<i>more and more daunting.</i>

1521
00:38:01,467 --> 00:38:04,033
<i>- Attention, surfers.</i>

1522
00:38:01,467 --> 00:38:04,033
<i>Five minutes remaining.</i>

1523
00:38:04,100 --> 00:38:05,500
<i>Kelly, you are in third.</i>

1524
00:38:05,567 --> 00:38:08,967
<i>You need a 6.51</i>

1525
00:38:05,567 --> 00:38:08,967
<i>to go to second.</i>

1526
00:38:09,033 --> 00:38:11,500
<i>narrator: Then there's less</i>

1527
00:38:09,033 --> 00:38:11,500
<i>than a minute remaining</i>

1528
00:38:11,567 --> 00:38:15,500
<i>and only one last wave</i>

1529
00:38:11,567 --> 00:38:15,500
<i>to stave off elimination.</i>

1530
00:38:15,567 --> 00:38:18,333
<i>- Let's watch Kelly</i>

1531
00:38:15,567 --> 00:38:18,333
<i>with the whitewater takeoff.</i>

1532
00:38:18,400 --> 00:38:20,700
Up and riding

1533
00:38:18,400 --> 00:38:20,700
with 25 seconds to go--

1534
00:38:20,767 --> 00:38:23,467
<i>a big gouge on the close out.</i>

1535
00:38:23,533 --> 00:38:25,300
<i>Wow, that was critical.</i>

1536
00:38:25,367 --> 00:38:28,300
<i>That was dangerous</i>

1537
00:38:25,367 --> 00:38:28,300
<i>and with 19 seconds to go,</i>

1538
00:38:28,367 --> 00:38:30,433
<i>was that a 6.51 or better</i>

1539
00:38:30,500 --> 00:38:32,300
<i>to get him</i>

1540
00:38:30,500 --> 00:38:32,300
<i>into the quarterfinals?</i>

1541
00:38:32,367 --> 00:38:35,400
[indistinct PA announcements]

1542
00:38:40,367 --> 00:38:43,200
<i>Last wave, Kelly Slater:</i>

1543
00:38:40,367 --> 00:38:43,200
<i>a 6.93.</i>

1544
00:38:43,267 --> 00:38:45,933
<i>He goes to second!</i>

1545
00:38:43,267 --> 00:38:45,933
<i>Unbelievable!</i>

1546
00:38:46,000 --> 00:38:47,733
- Yeah, you.

1547
00:38:46,000 --> 00:38:47,733
- There we go.

1548
00:38:47,800 --> 00:38:49,900
Some of that old magic back.

1549
00:38:49,967 --> 00:38:53,000
[indistinct chatter]

1550
00:38:53,933 --> 00:38:55,833
- Hi. Good job.

1551
00:38:53,933 --> 00:38:55,833
- Hey.

1552
00:38:55,900 --> 00:38:56,967
- I mean, that wave

1553
00:38:55,900 --> 00:38:56,967
was very big.

1554
00:38:57,033 --> 00:38:57,967
- Yeah.

1555
00:38:58,033 --> 00:38:58,967
I got up and I'm like,

1556
00:38:59,033 --> 00:38:59,967
"Shit, I better

1557
00:38:59,033 --> 00:38:59,967
do something quick.

1558
00:39:00,033 --> 00:39:01,333
It's closing out," but--

1559
00:39:01,400 --> 00:39:02,333
- That's perfect.

1560
00:39:02,400 --> 00:39:03,667
- It was--you know,

1561
00:39:02,400 --> 00:39:03,667
I've seen, like,

1562
00:39:03,733 --> 00:39:07,400
tens, nines get made out here

1563
00:39:03,733 --> 00:39:07,400
on one-turn waves, so--

1564
00:39:07,467 --> 00:39:08,400
- Yeah.

1565
00:39:08,467 --> 00:39:09,400
- I knew it was possible

1566
00:39:08,467 --> 00:39:09,400
'cause it's--

1567
00:39:09,467 --> 00:39:10,400
they're really scoring

1568
00:39:09,467 --> 00:39:10,400
on the big waves, so.

1569
00:39:10,467 --> 00:39:11,533
- Uh-huh.

1570
00:39:11,600 --> 00:39:13,233
<i>- I don't feel like</i>

1571
00:39:11,600 --> 00:39:13,233
<i>I've surfed a good heat yet</i>

1572
00:39:13,300 --> 00:39:14,200
<i>and I'm still in the--</i>

1573
00:39:14,267 --> 00:39:16,100
<i>you know, I'm in</i>

1574
00:39:14,267 --> 00:39:16,100
<i>the quarterfinals, so</i>

1575
00:39:16,167 --> 00:39:18,167
I feel like there's a lot

1576
00:39:16,167 --> 00:39:18,167
of room to move

1577
00:39:18,233 --> 00:39:20,100
on the upside for me.

1578
00:39:20,167 --> 00:39:22,700
[waves crashing]

1579
00:39:22,767 --> 00:39:24,600
Waves are perfect.

1580
00:39:24,667 --> 00:39:26,867
It's hard not to look.

1581
00:39:28,667 --> 00:39:31,500
<i>[suspenseful music]</i>

1582
00:39:31,567 --> 00:39:32,800
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1583
00:39:32,867 --> 00:39:35,667
<i>narrator: About a 45-minute</i>

1584
00:39:32,867 --> 00:39:35,667
<i>drive down from Haleiwa</i>

1585
00:39:35,733 --> 00:39:37,600
<i>over to Oahu's east side,</i>

1586
00:39:37,667 --> 00:39:40,633
<i>nestled on the edge</i>

1587
00:39:37,667 --> 00:39:40,633
<i>of the Pali mountain range,</i>

1588
00:39:40,700 --> 00:39:42,767
<i>another piece</i>

1589
00:39:40,700 --> 00:39:42,767
<i>of Kelly Slater's</i>

1590
00:39:42,833 --> 00:39:45,833
<i>journey to Pipeline</i>

1591
00:39:42,833 --> 00:39:45,833
<i>is underway.</i>

1592
00:39:45,900 --> 00:39:48,700
<i>This is the workshop</i>

1593
00:39:45,900 --> 00:39:48,700
<i>of Tocoro Surfboards,</i>

1594
00:39:48,767 --> 00:39:50,733
<i>an outfit that</i>

1595
00:39:48,767 --> 00:39:50,733
<i>hand-crafts boards</i>

1596
00:39:50,800 --> 00:39:53,433
<i>for all levels</i>

1597
00:39:50,800 --> 00:39:53,433
<i>of amateurs and professionals.</i>

1598
00:39:53,500 --> 00:39:56,100
[saw whirs]

1599
00:39:56,167 --> 00:39:58,000
<i>Though there's always</i>

1600
00:39:56,167 --> 00:39:58,000
<i>a particular honor</i>

1601
00:39:58,067 --> 00:40:00,300
<i>they take here</i>

1602
00:39:58,067 --> 00:40:00,300
<i>in what they build</i>

1603
00:40:00,367 --> 00:40:03,233
<i>for world-class competitors</i>

1604
00:40:00,367 --> 00:40:03,233
<i>like Slater.</i>

1605
00:40:03,300 --> 00:40:05,667
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1606
00:40:05,733 --> 00:40:08,567
<i>Every step of the process</i>

1607
00:40:05,733 --> 00:40:08,567
<i>holds the potential</i>

1608
00:40:08,633 --> 00:40:11,300
<i>to make a measure of</i>

1609
00:40:08,633 --> 00:40:11,300
<i>untold difference on a wave.</i>

1610
00:40:11,367 --> 00:40:13,200
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1611
00:40:13,267 --> 00:40:15,833
<i>Every inch treated</i>

1612
00:40:13,267 --> 00:40:15,833
<i>with the same care,</i>

1613
00:40:15,900 --> 00:40:18,033
<i>the same singular focus,</i>

1614
00:40:18,100 --> 00:40:22,100
<i>that the surfer himself brings</i>

1615
00:40:18,100 --> 00:40:22,100
<i>to his task in the water.</i>

1616
00:40:22,167 --> 00:40:23,467
<i>Because make no mistake,</i>

1617
00:40:23,533 --> 00:40:26,667
<i>there's pride in writing</i>

1618
00:40:23,533 --> 00:40:26,667
<i>this name on this board.</i>

1619
00:40:26,733 --> 00:40:28,900
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1620
00:40:28,967 --> 00:40:31,133
<i>Pride in being</i>

1621
00:40:28,967 --> 00:40:31,133
<i>this hidden part</i>

1622
00:40:31,200 --> 00:40:34,533
<i>of Kelly Slater's</i>

1623
00:40:31,200 --> 00:40:34,533
<i>preparation for Pipeline.</i>

1624
00:40:34,600 --> 00:40:36,733
<i>[indistinct PA announcement]</i>

1625
00:40:36,800 --> 00:40:39,033
[horn blasts]

1626
00:40:41,967 --> 00:40:43,667
<i>A little less than 72 hours</i>

1627
00:40:43,733 --> 00:40:47,000
<i>after Slater's last-second</i>

1628
00:40:43,733 --> 00:40:47,000
<i>exploits kept him alive--</i>

1629
00:40:47,067 --> 00:40:50,933
<i>- ♪ Hold on to the thread ♪</i>

1630
00:40:51,000 --> 00:40:52,900
<i>narrator:</i>

1631
00:40:51,000 --> 00:40:52,900
<i>The Hawaiian Pro resumes</i>

1632
00:40:52,967 --> 00:40:54,000
<i>on a picture-perfect day</i>

1633
00:40:54,067 --> 00:40:55,833
<i>on Oahu's North Shore,</i>

1634
00:40:55,900 --> 00:40:58,533
<i>kicking off</i>

1635
00:40:55,900 --> 00:40:58,533
<i>with the quarterfinal heats.</i>

1636
00:40:58,600 --> 00:41:01,300
<i>["Oceans" by Pearl Jam]</i>

1637
00:41:01,367 --> 00:41:03,067
<i>If this is the final time</i>

1638
00:41:03,133 --> 00:41:05,633
<i>Kelly Slater</i>

1639
00:41:03,133 --> 00:41:05,633
<i>will compete at Haleiwa</i>

1640
00:41:05,700 --> 00:41:09,100
<i>he's of course hardly</i>

1641
00:41:05,700 --> 00:41:09,100
<i>approaching it ceremoniously.</i>

1642
00:41:09,167 --> 00:41:11,567
<i>Not just because it's</i>

1643
00:41:09,167 --> 00:41:11,567
<i>a potentially valuable tune-up</i>

1644
00:41:11,633 --> 00:41:14,533
<i>for the Pipe Masters,</i>

1645
00:41:11,633 --> 00:41:14,533
<i>but also because</i>

1646
00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,967
<i>that's just not the way</i>

1647
00:41:14,600 --> 00:41:16,967
<i>Kelly Slater surfs.</i>

1648
00:41:17,033 --> 00:41:19,667
<i>- ♪ Oh, the next ♪</i>

1649
00:41:19,733 --> 00:41:25,300
<i>♪ Time we touch ♪</i>

1650
00:41:25,367 --> 00:41:27,167
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1651
00:41:27,233 --> 00:41:30,533
<i>narrator: The great weather</i>

1652
00:41:27,233 --> 00:41:30,533
<i>translates to a great crowd,</i>

1653
00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:35,867
<i>but also calm conditions</i>

1654
00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:35,867
<i>and a scarcity of good waves.</i>

1655
00:41:35,933 --> 00:41:37,767
<i>- Kelly Slater--</i>

1656
00:41:35,933 --> 00:41:37,767
<i>nice foam climb.</i>

1657
00:41:37,833 --> 00:41:40,733
<i>He's gonna have to tap-dance</i>

1658
00:41:37,833 --> 00:41:40,733
<i>through this dead water</i>

1659
00:41:40,800 --> 00:41:44,467
<i>making the most</i>

1660
00:41:40,800 --> 00:41:44,467
<i>of what was on offer.</i>

1661
00:41:44,533 --> 00:41:48,800
<i>- ♪ You don't have to stray ♪</i>

1662
00:41:48,867 --> 00:41:50,367
<i>narrator: These are the kinds</i>

1663
00:41:48,867 --> 00:41:50,367
<i>of scenarios</i>

1664
00:41:50,433 --> 00:41:53,133
<i>when experience can pay off.</i>

1665
00:41:53,200 --> 00:41:55,067
<i>- ♪ Waves roll</i>

1666
00:41:53,200 --> 00:41:55,067
<i>in my thoughts ♪</i>

1667
00:41:55,133 --> 00:41:57,967
<i>narrator: When a surfer has to</i>

1668
00:41:55,133 --> 00:41:57,967
<i>know when the time's right</i>

1669
00:41:58,033 --> 00:41:59,833
<i>to seize an opportunity.</i>

1670
00:41:59,900 --> 00:42:01,033
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1671
00:42:01,100 --> 00:42:02,400
<i>- Gonna get some open face</i>

1672
00:42:01,100 --> 00:42:02,400
<i>to work with.</i>

1673
00:42:02,467 --> 00:42:03,400
<i>Bottom-turn it.</i>

1674
00:42:03,467 --> 00:42:05,100
<i>Gonna go tuck in the barrel</i>

1675
00:42:05,167 --> 00:42:07,233
<i>and disappear</i>

1676
00:42:05,167 --> 00:42:07,233
<i>behind the curtain.</i>

1677
00:42:07,300 --> 00:42:09,267
<i>Slater, still carving.</i>

1678
00:42:09,333 --> 00:42:11,433
<i>Good morning, Haleiwa.</i>

1679
00:42:11,500 --> 00:42:12,800
<i>- Seven minutes remain.</i>

1680
00:42:12,867 --> 00:42:13,900
<i>- Last wave:</i>

1681
00:42:13,967 --> 00:42:16,200
<i>Kelly Slater--</i>

1682
00:42:13,967 --> 00:42:16,200
<i>an 8.33.</i>

1683
00:42:16,267 --> 00:42:17,367
Kelly, you remain first.

1684
00:42:17,433 --> 00:42:20,267
<i>- ♪ Be there once more ♪</i>

1685
00:42:20,333 --> 00:42:22,300
<i>narrator: Particularly</i>

1686
00:42:20,333 --> 00:42:22,300
<i>in these conditions,</i>

1687
00:42:22,367 --> 00:42:23,933
<i>it's a huge score,</i>

1688
00:42:24,000 --> 00:42:26,400
<i>and it'll hold up to ease him</i>

1689
00:42:24,000 --> 00:42:26,400
<i>into the semifinals.</i>

1690
00:42:26,467 --> 00:42:30,000
<i>- Three, two, one.</i>

1691
00:42:30,067 --> 00:42:32,833
<i>[horn blares]</i>

1692
00:42:32,900 --> 00:42:39,900
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1693
00:42:41,033 --> 00:42:42,900
[indistinct chatter]

1694
00:42:42,967 --> 00:42:44,333
<i>- You know,</i>

1695
00:42:42,967 --> 00:42:44,333
<i>you gotta play the game.</i>

1696
00:42:44,400 --> 00:42:45,567
<i>You gotta pace yourself.</i>

1697
00:42:45,633 --> 00:42:47,333
<i>You know, either you get the</i>

1698
00:42:45,633 --> 00:42:47,333
<i>first good wave and start.</i>

1699
00:42:47,400 --> 00:42:48,533
You put the pressure

1700
00:42:47,400 --> 00:42:48,533
on the other guys,

1701
00:42:48,600 --> 00:42:50,967
or you wait for what you know

1702
00:42:48,600 --> 00:42:50,967
is gonna be the right wave

1703
00:42:51,033 --> 00:42:53,600
to let you do something

1704
00:42:51,033 --> 00:42:53,600
somebody else can't do,

1705
00:42:53,667 --> 00:42:54,767
and that sort of happened

1706
00:42:53,667 --> 00:42:54,767
for me.

1707
00:42:54,833 --> 00:42:56,367
I got that one that sort of

1708
00:42:54,833 --> 00:42:56,367
stood up on the reef

1709
00:42:56,433 --> 00:42:57,533
a little bit better.

1710
00:42:57,600 --> 00:42:59,467
Um, couple of the ones Mitch

1711
00:42:57,600 --> 00:42:59,467
and those guys got

1712
00:42:59,533 --> 00:43:01,467
were a little deeper

1713
00:42:59,533 --> 00:43:01,467
and they kind of flattened out.

1714
00:43:01,533 --> 00:43:02,667
<i>I wanted to stay away</i>

1715
00:43:01,533 --> 00:43:02,667
<i>from those waves</i>

1716
00:43:02,733 --> 00:43:05,100
<i>as best I could.</i>

1717
00:43:05,167 --> 00:43:09,700
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1718
00:43:09,767 --> 00:43:12,633
<i>- On to semifinal heat</i>

1719
00:43:09,767 --> 00:43:12,633
<i>number two.</i>

1720
00:43:12,700 --> 00:43:16,867
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1721
00:43:16,933 --> 00:43:20,467
<i>11-time world champion</i>

1722
00:43:16,933 --> 00:43:20,467
<i>Kelly Slater in the white.</i>

1723
00:43:20,533 --> 00:43:27,633
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1724
00:43:29,800 --> 00:43:31,200
<i>narrator: The difference</i>

1725
00:43:29,800 --> 00:43:31,200
<i>between surfing</i>

1726
00:43:31,267 --> 00:43:33,000
<i>and so many other sports</i>

1727
00:43:33,067 --> 00:43:36,900
<i>is that the playing field is</i>

1728
00:43:33,067 --> 00:43:36,900
<i>never totally predictable,</i>

1729
00:43:36,967 --> 00:43:39,400
<i>and when the ocean decides</i>

1730
00:43:36,967 --> 00:43:39,400
<i>it's not going to cooperate</i>

1731
00:43:39,467 --> 00:43:41,600
<i>in the way you wish it would,</i>

1732
00:43:41,667 --> 00:43:45,433
<i>everything else is rendered</i>

1733
00:43:41,667 --> 00:43:45,433
<i>all but moot.</i>

1734
00:43:45,500 --> 00:43:48,933
<i>- The swell--short spurts</i>

1735
00:43:45,500 --> 00:43:48,933
<i>and moments this morning.</i>

1736
00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:52,267
<i>- Even the GOAT is not immune</i>

1737
00:43:49,000 --> 00:43:52,267
<i>to frustration.</i>

1738
00:43:52,333 --> 00:43:53,767
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1739
00:43:53,833 --> 00:43:56,467
<i>narrator: Frustration that,</i>

1740
00:43:53,833 --> 00:43:56,467
<i>in less than 30 minutes' time,</i>

1741
00:43:56,533 --> 00:43:58,933
<i>can transform</i>

1742
00:43:56,533 --> 00:43:58,933
<i>into desperation.</i>

1743
00:43:59,000 --> 00:44:00,533
<i>- Slater driving</i>

1744
00:43:59,000 --> 00:44:00,533
<i>down the line.</i>

1745
00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:04,233
<i>Up into the lip--goes for just</i>

1746
00:44:00,600 --> 00:44:04,233
<i>the craziest flyaway</i>

1747
00:44:04,300 --> 00:44:06,033
<i>I've seen in a long time.</i>

1748
00:44:06,100 --> 00:44:08,700
<i>- Not a smart choice</i>

1749
00:44:06,100 --> 00:44:08,700
<i>for Kelly.</i>

1750
00:44:08,767 --> 00:44:10,133
<i>Just a weird heat.</i>

1751
00:44:10,200 --> 00:44:13,067
<i>This--Mother Nature caught all</i>

1752
00:44:10,200 --> 00:44:13,067
<i>four of these competitors</i>

1753
00:44:13,133 --> 00:44:14,200
<i>by surprise.</i>

1754
00:44:14,267 --> 00:44:16,133
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1755
00:44:16,200 --> 00:44:18,600
<i>- White needs a 4.15.</i>

1756
00:44:18,667 --> 00:44:21,033
One minute,

1757
00:44:18,667 --> 00:44:21,033
20 seconds remaining.

1758
00:44:21,100 --> 00:44:22,133
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1759
00:44:22,200 --> 00:44:23,200
<i>narrator: On another day,</i>

1760
00:44:23,267 --> 00:44:25,600
<i>a 4.15 would not be</i>

1761
00:44:23,267 --> 00:44:25,600
<i>a hard score</i>

1762
00:44:25,667 --> 00:44:26,767
<i>for Slater to attain.</i>

1763
00:44:26,833 --> 00:44:28,033
<i>- Okay, here we go.</i>

1764
00:44:26,833 --> 00:44:28,033
<i>Counting down in five...</i>

1765
00:44:28,100 --> 00:44:29,233
<i>narrator: But on this one,</i>

1766
00:44:29,300 --> 00:44:32,067
<i>the waves needed to get it</i>

1767
00:44:29,300 --> 00:44:32,067
<i>are just not there.</i>

1768
00:44:32,133 --> 00:44:34,200
<i>[horn blares]</i>

1769
00:44:34,267 --> 00:44:35,933
<i>- We lose the GOAT in Slater.</i>

1770
00:44:36,000 --> 00:44:37,100
<i>Little unlucky for the boys;</i>

1771
00:44:37,167 --> 00:44:38,500
<i>that was a very slow heat.</i>

1772
00:44:38,567 --> 00:44:41,333
<i>One of the slowest</i>

1773
00:44:38,567 --> 00:44:41,333
<i>of the whole event.</i>

1774
00:44:41,400 --> 00:44:43,467
<i>narrator: Four is not</i>

1775
00:44:41,400 --> 00:44:43,467
<i>the number you want</i>

1776
00:44:43,533 --> 00:44:45,433
<i>next to your name.</i>

1777
00:44:45,500 --> 00:44:47,667
<i>His contest is over.</i>

1778
00:44:47,733 --> 00:44:50,633
<i>[light hip-hop music]</i>

1779
00:44:50,700 --> 00:44:57,733
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1780
00:44:59,333 --> 00:45:01,300
<i>narrator: Even through</i>

1781
00:44:59,333 --> 00:45:01,300
<i>the disappointment,</i>

1782
00:45:01,367 --> 00:45:03,267
<i>part of the charm</i>

1783
00:45:01,367 --> 00:45:03,267
<i>of an event like this</i>

1784
00:45:03,333 --> 00:45:05,167
<i>is the way</i>

1785
00:45:03,333 --> 00:45:05,167
<i>it can instantly remind you</i>

1786
00:45:05,233 --> 00:45:06,967
<i>of who you once were.</i>

1787
00:45:07,033 --> 00:45:09,767
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1788
00:45:09,833 --> 00:45:11,933
<i>As for other kinds of</i>

1789
00:45:09,833 --> 00:45:11,933
<i>self-reflection,</i>

1790
00:45:12,000 --> 00:45:13,733
<i>he now can't help but wonder,</i>

1791
00:45:13,800 --> 00:45:15,700
<i>heading into</i>

1792
00:45:13,800 --> 00:45:15,700
<i>the rest of the season,</i>

1793
00:45:15,767 --> 00:45:18,033
<i>if so openly pondering</i>

1794
00:45:15,767 --> 00:45:18,033
<i>retirement</i>

1795
00:45:18,100 --> 00:45:19,233
<i>has been a detriment.</i>

1796
00:45:19,300 --> 00:45:20,633
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1797
00:45:20,700 --> 00:45:22,533
<i>- I think I approached</i>

1798
00:45:20,700 --> 00:45:22,533
<i>this year--</i>

1799
00:45:22,600 --> 00:45:24,700
<i>I put too much pressure</i>

1800
00:45:22,600 --> 00:45:24,700
<i>on myself,</i>

1801
00:45:24,767 --> 00:45:26,000
<i>and I kind of thought,</i>

1802
00:45:24,767 --> 00:45:26,000
<i>"Maybe the pressure'll</i>

1803
00:45:26,067 --> 00:45:28,133
<i>bring it all out of me</i>

1804
00:45:26,067 --> 00:45:28,133
<i>and make me really focus,"</i>

1805
00:45:28,200 --> 00:45:30,800
<i>but it--I think it sort of</i>

1806
00:45:28,200 --> 00:45:30,800
<i>distracted me.</i>

1807
00:45:30,867 --> 00:45:32,200
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1808
00:45:32,267 --> 00:45:34,200
<i>I've beaten all the best guys</i>

1809
00:45:32,267 --> 00:45:34,200
<i>in the world this year</i>

1810
00:45:34,267 --> 00:45:35,400
<i>in a heat,</i>

1811
00:45:35,467 --> 00:45:37,967
<i>but I just haven't beaten them</i>

1812
00:45:35,467 --> 00:45:37,967
<i>in rankings, you know.</i>

1813
00:45:38,033 --> 00:45:39,100
<i>But...</i>

1814
00:45:39,167 --> 00:45:41,533
the retirement thing--

1815
00:45:41,600 --> 00:45:45,133
like I said, I'm just gonna go

1816
00:45:41,600 --> 00:45:45,133
with what feels right.

1817
00:45:45,200 --> 00:45:50,867
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1818
00:45:50,933 --> 00:45:53,300
<i>I wish I was in a world title</i>

1819
00:45:50,933 --> 00:45:53,300
<i>conversation</i>

1820
00:45:53,367 --> 00:45:57,667
<i>coming to Pipeline</i>

1821
00:45:53,367 --> 00:45:57,667
<i>this next month,</i>

1822
00:45:57,733 --> 00:46:00,800
<i>but I can pretty clearly say</i>

1823
00:46:00,867 --> 00:46:02,033
<i>if I were to win Pipeline</i>

1824
00:46:00,867 --> 00:46:02,033
<i>this year,</i>

1825
00:46:02,100 --> 00:46:04,567
<i>I'd probably retire right</i>

1826
00:46:02,100 --> 00:46:04,567
<i>then.</i>

1827
00:46:04,633 --> 00:46:07,767
<i>It would just--it would just</i>

1828
00:46:04,633 --> 00:46:07,767
<i>cap it all for me.</i>

1829
00:46:07,833 --> 00:46:14,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1830
00:46:14,633 --> 00:46:18,600
<i>[waves crashing]</i>

1831
00:46:18,667 --> 00:46:19,867
I always play those green ones.

1832
00:46:19,933 --> 00:46:22,233
[indistinct chatter, laughter]

1833
00:46:22,300 --> 00:46:26,267
[light guitar music]

1834
00:46:26,333 --> 00:46:29,767
<i>narrator: He may be unsure of</i>

1835
00:46:26,333 --> 00:46:29,767
<i>what his next step will be,</i>

1836
00:46:29,833 --> 00:46:31,867
<i>but he's not one who ever</i>

1837
00:46:29,833 --> 00:46:31,867
<i>looks overwhelmed</i>

1838
00:46:31,933 --> 00:46:33,567
<i>by that uncertainty.</i>

1839
00:46:33,633 --> 00:46:38,767
♪ ♪

1840
00:46:38,833 --> 00:46:40,467
- What is this?

1841
00:46:40,533 --> 00:46:42,100
That's one of yours?

1842
00:46:42,167 --> 00:46:43,433
- Yeah.

1843
00:46:43,500 --> 00:46:46,000
Yeah, I don't--I haven't played

1844
00:46:43,500 --> 00:46:46,000
this in a long time.

1845
00:46:46,067 --> 00:46:47,267
<i>narrator: In so many ways,</i>

1846
00:46:47,333 --> 00:46:48,633
<i>it can seem too easy</i>

1847
00:46:48,700 --> 00:46:52,267
<i>to render his life</i>

1848
00:46:48,700 --> 00:46:52,267
<i>as a surfing metaphor,</i>

1849
00:46:52,333 --> 00:46:55,533
<i>but balance in the wake of</i>

1850
00:46:52,333 --> 00:46:55,533
<i>the intensity of competition</i>

1851
00:46:55,600 --> 00:46:57,233
<i>is essential.</i>

1852
00:46:55,600 --> 00:46:57,233
- What are you guys drinking?

1853
00:46:57,300 --> 00:46:59,433
<i>narrator: And it's best</i>

1854
00:46:57,300 --> 00:46:59,433
<i>achieved with friends close</i>

1855
00:46:59,500 --> 00:47:00,967
<i>and guitar in hand.</i>

1856
00:47:01,033 --> 00:47:02,500
- ♪ Can I be saved? ♪

1857
00:47:02,567 --> 00:47:04,533
♪ Am I too late? ♪

1858
00:47:04,600 --> 00:47:06,500
♪ Am I today ♪

1859
00:47:06,567 --> 00:47:10,200
♪ Never I say ♪

1860
00:47:10,267 --> 00:47:15,933
♪ ♪

1861
00:47:16,000 --> 00:47:17,767
♪ Can I be saved? ♪

1862
00:47:17,833 --> 00:47:19,800
♪ Or am I too late? ♪

1863
00:47:19,867 --> 00:47:21,867
♪ Am I today ♪

1864
00:47:21,933 --> 00:47:26,333
♪ Never I say ♪

1865
00:47:26,400 --> 00:47:31,200
♪ ♪

1866
00:47:31,267 --> 00:47:32,500
- Chihoo.

1867
00:47:31,267 --> 00:47:32,500
- Chihoo!

1868
00:47:32,567 --> 00:47:33,500
- Chihoo.

1869
00:47:32,567 --> 00:47:33,500
[laughter]

1870
00:47:33,567 --> 00:47:35,233
- Chihoo!

1871
00:47:33,567 --> 00:47:35,233
- Oh.

1872
00:47:35,300 --> 00:47:37,500
I actually wrote those lyrics

1873
00:47:35,300 --> 00:47:37,500
on a plane,

1874
00:47:37,567 --> 00:47:39,600
'cause I was, like, hearing

1875
00:47:37,567 --> 00:47:39,600
the song in my head.

1876
00:47:39,667 --> 00:47:41,933
When you read lyrics sometimes

1877
00:47:39,667 --> 00:47:41,933
and you don't have the melody,

1878
00:47:42,000 --> 00:47:43,500
it just, like, looks weird.

1879
00:47:43,567 --> 00:47:44,767
- Yeah, completely.

1880
00:47:43,567 --> 00:47:44,767
- Yeah.

1881
00:47:44,833 --> 00:47:46,667
And so, like, I just went,

1882
00:47:44,833 --> 00:47:46,667
like, "Oh, I don't like it!"

1883
00:47:46,733 --> 00:47:48,367
And I threw it in the trash.

1884
00:47:46,733 --> 00:47:48,367
- I feel--I find it's--

1885
00:47:48,433 --> 00:47:50,400
- And then PK's like, "We gotta

1886
00:47:48,433 --> 00:47:50,400
sing a melody to that.

1887
00:47:50,467 --> 00:47:51,600
Where's those lyrics?"

1888
00:47:51,667 --> 00:47:52,733
I'm like, "I threw them away."

1889
00:47:51,667 --> 00:47:52,733
And he's like, "Where?"

1890
00:47:52,800 --> 00:47:53,900
And I'm like,

1891
00:47:52,800 --> 00:47:53,900
"In the trash can."

1892
00:47:53,967 --> 00:47:54,900
- And he went and got them?

1893
00:47:53,967 --> 00:47:54,900
- And he went and got them

1894
00:47:54,967 --> 00:47:55,900
out of the trash can.

1895
00:47:54,967 --> 00:47:55,900
- Resurrected it.

1896
00:47:55,967 --> 00:47:56,967
- Yeah.

1897
00:47:55,967 --> 00:47:56,967
[laughter]

1898
00:47:57,033 --> 00:47:58,367
<i>narrator: There are those</i>

1899
00:47:57,033 --> 00:47:58,367
<i>who will tell you</i>

1900
00:47:58,433 --> 00:48:00,600
<i>that some songs</i>

1901
00:47:58,433 --> 00:48:00,600
<i>are meant to be saved.</i>

1902
00:48:00,667 --> 00:48:04,533
<i>After all, you never know when</i>

1903
00:48:00,667 --> 00:48:04,533
<i>you'll be able to call on one</i>

1904
00:48:04,600 --> 00:48:06,600
<i>to embody the moment that</i>

1905
00:48:04,600 --> 00:48:06,600
<i>you're living in.</i>

1906
00:48:06,667 --> 00:48:09,967
all: ♪ Sitting in limbo ♪

1907
00:48:10,033 --> 00:48:12,533
♪ Limbo, limbo, limbo ♪

1908
00:48:12,600 --> 00:48:15,000
- ♪ Limbo, limbo, limbo ♪

1909
00:48:12,600 --> 00:48:15,000
- Yep, that's right.

1910
00:48:15,067 --> 00:48:17,867
all: ♪ Limbo, limbo, limbo ♪

1911
00:48:17,933 --> 00:48:19,767
♪ Limbo, limbo, limbo ♪

1912
00:48:19,833 --> 00:48:22,667
- ♪ Man, I keep putting up

1913
00:48:19,833 --> 00:48:22,667
resistance ♪

1914
00:48:22,733 --> 00:48:27,333
all: ♪ But I know that my faith

1915
00:48:22,733 --> 00:48:27,333
will lead me ♪

1916
00:48:27,400 --> 00:48:30,433
♪ Home ♪

1917
00:48:30,500 --> 00:48:31,467
♪ ♪

1918
00:48:31,533 --> 00:48:33,367
- Whoo-hoo!

1919
00:48:33,433 --> 00:48:35,233
<i>[laughter]</i>

1920
00:48:35,300 --> 00:48:37,300
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1921
00:48:37,367 --> 00:48:39,333
<i>[indistinct chatter]</i>

1922
00:48:46,467 --> 00:48:48,000
<i>- Sometimes I look around</i>

1923
00:48:46,467 --> 00:48:48,000
<i>at my life</i>

1924
00:48:48,067 --> 00:48:51,967
<i>and I cannot believe</i>

1925
00:48:48,067 --> 00:48:51,967
<i>that it happened like this.</i>

1926
00:48:52,033 --> 00:48:53,800
<i>I can't believe that wave came</i>

1927
00:48:52,033 --> 00:48:53,800
<i>to me at that time</i>

1928
00:48:53,867 --> 00:48:55,567
<i>and it won me the world title.</i>

1929
00:48:55,633 --> 00:48:57,833
<i>["Corners Of The Earth"</i>

1930
00:48:55,633 --> 00:48:57,833
<i>by ODESZA]</i>

1931
00:48:57,900 --> 00:48:58,967
<i>When it's all clicking,</i>

1932
00:48:59,033 --> 00:49:00,800
<i>it feels like everything's</i>

1933
00:48:59,033 --> 00:49:00,800
<i>right in the world.</i>

1934
00:49:00,867 --> 00:49:07,900
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1935
00:49:09,833 --> 00:49:11,933
<i>I was flashing back last night</i>

1936
00:49:09,833 --> 00:49:11,933
<i>about my life</i>

1937
00:49:12,000 --> 00:49:15,367
<i>and all the things that</i>

1938
00:49:12,000 --> 00:49:15,367
<i>created this life for me</i>

1939
00:49:15,433 --> 00:49:17,500
<i>and all the things that've</i>

1940
00:49:15,433 --> 00:49:17,500
<i>happened and how it's all--</i>

1941
00:49:17,567 --> 00:49:19,567
<i>like, life hasn't all been</i>

1942
00:49:17,567 --> 00:49:19,567
<i>great and wonderful,</i>

1943
00:49:19,633 --> 00:49:21,600
but it's kinda all

1944
00:49:19,633 --> 00:49:21,600
gone my way.

1945
00:49:21,667 --> 00:49:22,933
You know, in a, like,--

1946
00:49:23,000 --> 00:49:24,633
and maybe that's just

1947
00:49:23,000 --> 00:49:24,633
looking at it

1948
00:49:24,700 --> 00:49:26,667
from the right perspective,

1949
00:49:24,700 --> 00:49:26,667
from the right lens.

1950
00:49:26,733 --> 00:49:27,667
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1951
00:49:27,733 --> 00:49:30,367
<i>- ♪ Tonight we're golden ♪</i>

1952
00:49:30,433 --> 00:49:33,433
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1953
00:49:33,500 --> 00:49:37,367
<i>♪ We fall towards each other ♪</i>

1954
00:49:37,433 --> 00:49:41,533
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1955
00:49:41,600 --> 00:49:46,167
<i>♪ We fall to the edges</i>

1956
00:49:41,600 --> 00:49:46,167
<i>of the Earth ♪</i>

1957
00:49:46,233 --> 00:49:48,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1958
00:49:48,633 --> 00:49:52,100
<i>♪ We burn tonight as one ♪</i>

1959
00:49:52,167 --> 00:49:57,500
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1960
00:49:57,567 --> 00:49:59,400
[waves crashing]

1961
00:49:59,467 --> 00:50:01,067
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1962
00:50:01,133 --> 00:50:03,500
<i>- I fell so in love with</i>

1963
00:50:01,133 --> 00:50:03,500
<i>surfing at a young age.</i>

1964
00:50:03,567 --> 00:50:05,900
<i>I didn't know,</i>

1965
00:50:03,567 --> 00:50:05,900
<i>at eight years old</i>

1966
00:50:05,967 --> 00:50:06,933
<i>when I started competing,</i>

1967
00:50:07,000 --> 00:50:08,167
<i>that I could have a career</i>

1968
00:50:07,000 --> 00:50:08,167
<i>in surfing.</i>

1969
00:50:08,233 --> 00:50:09,333
<i>I just thought,</i>

1970
00:50:08,233 --> 00:50:09,333
<i>"Oh, this would be fun</i>

1971
00:50:09,400 --> 00:50:11,333
<i>to surf in a contest."</i>

1972
00:50:11,400 --> 00:50:12,333
<i>But I've made a living</i>

1973
00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:15,400
<i>from what</i>

1974
00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:15,400
<i>I'm most passionate about.</i>

1975
00:50:15,467 --> 00:50:17,733
<i>If people ever ask me my</i>

1976
00:50:15,467 --> 00:50:17,733
<i>advice, I've always thought,</i>

1977
00:50:17,800 --> 00:50:19,033
<i>"Oh, do what you're most</i>

1978
00:50:17,800 --> 00:50:19,033
<i>passionate about</i>

1979
00:50:19,100 --> 00:50:20,800
<i>and figure out how to make</i>

1980
00:50:19,100 --> 00:50:20,800
<i>that your life."</i>

1981
00:50:20,867 --> 00:50:22,100
But I don't know

1982
00:50:20,867 --> 00:50:22,100
if that is or isn't

1983
00:50:22,167 --> 00:50:23,600
a possibility for everybody.

1984
00:50:23,667 --> 00:50:24,700
I'm not sure.

1985
00:50:24,767 --> 00:50:26,600
If it was, I think everyone

1986
00:50:24,767 --> 00:50:26,600
would be a pro surfer.

1987
00:50:26,667 --> 00:50:27,900
[laughs]

1988
00:50:27,967 --> 00:50:29,000
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1989
00:50:30,800 --> 00:50:35,733
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1990
00:50:35,800 --> 00:50:38,100
<i>narrator: The most alluring</i>

1991
00:50:35,800 --> 00:50:38,100
<i>aspect of the ocean</i>

1992
00:50:38,167 --> 00:50:40,100
<i>to a surfer may just be</i>

1993
00:50:40,167 --> 00:50:41,600
<i>that there will always be</i>

1994
00:50:40,167 --> 00:50:41,600
<i>another wave</i>

1995
00:50:41,667 --> 00:50:43,467
<i>to measure yourself by.</i>

1996
00:50:43,533 --> 00:50:45,033
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1997
00:50:45,100 --> 00:50:47,333
<i>As far as life itself goes,</i>

1998
00:50:47,400 --> 00:50:49,467
<i>you only get one chance</i>

1999
00:50:47,400 --> 00:50:49,467
<i>to get it right.</i>

2000
00:50:49,533 --> 00:50:51,933
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2001
00:50:52,000 --> 00:50:53,767
<i>By even his own account,</i>

2002
00:50:53,833 --> 00:50:56,633
<i>Kelly Slater has lived</i>

2003
00:50:53,833 --> 00:50:56,633
<i>his life as an exception.</i>

2004
00:50:56,700 --> 00:50:58,500
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2005
00:50:58,567 --> 00:51:02,700
<i>Able to achieve what</i>

2006
00:50:58,567 --> 00:51:02,700
<i>nearly everyone else cannot.</i>

2007
00:51:02,767 --> 00:51:04,400
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2008
00:51:04,467 --> 00:51:09,233
<i>Less to reap remarkable</i>

2009
00:51:04,467 --> 00:51:09,233
<i>benefits from that gift.</i>

2010
00:51:09,300 --> 00:51:11,600
<i>Charmed to be driven</i>

2011
00:51:09,300 --> 00:51:11,600
<i>by a passion</i>

2012
00:51:11,667 --> 00:51:14,067
<i>that continues to fuel him.</i>

2013
00:51:14,133 --> 00:51:15,333
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2014
00:51:15,400 --> 00:51:17,633
<i>So it's hard for him</i>

2015
00:51:15,400 --> 00:51:17,633
<i>to think of competing</i>

2016
00:51:17,700 --> 00:51:20,300
<i>as a part of his past.</i>

2017
00:51:20,367 --> 00:51:21,967
<i>And by contrast,</i>

2018
00:51:22,033 --> 00:51:24,167
<i>natural for a place like</i>

2019
00:51:22,033 --> 00:51:24,167
<i>Pipeline</i>

2020
00:51:24,233 --> 00:51:27,767
<i>to still attract his gaze</i>

2021
00:51:24,233 --> 00:51:27,767
<i>after all this time.</i>

2022
00:51:27,833 --> 00:51:30,267
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2023
00:51:30,333 --> 00:51:32,200
<i>A 47-year-old legend</i>

2024
00:51:32,267 --> 00:51:34,700
<i>in the most famous event</i>

2025
00:51:32,267 --> 00:51:34,700
<i>in the sport.</i>

2026
00:51:34,767 --> 00:51:37,567
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2027
00:51:37,633 --> 00:51:40,867
<i>You wouldn't be alone pulling</i>

2028
00:51:37,633 --> 00:51:40,867
<i>for him to win it once more.</i>

2029
00:51:40,933 --> 00:51:43,733
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2030
00:51:43,800 --> 00:51:46,333
<i>But the truth is,</i>

2031
00:51:43,800 --> 00:51:46,333
<i>for Kelly Slater,</i>

2032
00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:49,300
<i>the competition has never been</i>

2033
00:51:46,400 --> 00:51:49,300
<i>about simply being better</i>

2034
00:51:49,367 --> 00:51:52,367
<i>than the next surfer.</i>

2035
00:51:52,433 --> 00:51:56,100
<i>It's about measuring up</i>

2036
00:51:52,433 --> 00:51:56,100
<i>to all the ocean gives him</i>

2037
00:51:56,167 --> 00:51:57,867
<i>and finding a way to realize</i>

2038
00:51:57,933 --> 00:52:00,333
<i>the possibilities he glimpses</i>

2039
00:52:00,400 --> 00:52:02,833
<i>every time he walks out</i>

2040
00:52:00,400 --> 00:52:02,833
<i>towards its horizon.</i>

2041
00:52:02,900 --> 00:52:06,700
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2042
00:52:06,767 --> 00:52:09,800
<i>[waves crashing]</i>

2043
00:52:11,100 --> 00:52:14,167
<i>[dramatic music]</i>

2044
00:52:14,233 --> 00:52:16,033
<i>On December 10th,</i>

2045
00:52:14,233 --> 00:52:16,033
<i>don't miss the premiere</i>

2046
00:52:16,100 --> 00:52:19,367
<i>of the HBO Sports documentary</i>

2047
00:52:16,100 --> 00:52:19,367
<i>"Belichick & Saban:</i>

2048
00:52:19,433 --> 00:52:20,600
<i>The Art of Coaching."</i>

2049
00:52:20,667 --> 00:52:22,767
<i>As the close friends discuss</i>

2050
00:52:20,667 --> 00:52:22,767
<i>the approaches</i>

2051
00:52:22,833 --> 00:52:24,433
<i>and philosophies</i>

2052
00:52:22,833 --> 00:52:24,433
<i>that have made them</i>

2053
00:52:24,500 --> 00:52:27,267
<i>among the best coaches ever</i>

2054
00:52:24,500 --> 00:52:27,267
<i>in any sport.</i>

2055
00:52:27,333 --> 00:52:28,800
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2056
00:52:28,867 --> 00:52:31,133
<i>And one week later</i>

2057
00:52:28,867 --> 00:52:31,133
<i>on December 17th,</i>

2058
00:52:31,200 --> 00:52:33,367
<i>it's the documentary</i>

2059
00:52:31,200 --> 00:52:33,367
<i>"Well Groomed,"</i>

2060
00:52:33,433 --> 00:52:35,833
<i>a vibrant exploration</i>

2061
00:52:33,433 --> 00:52:35,833
<i>of the world of competitive</i>

2062
00:52:35,900 --> 00:52:37,933
<i>and creative dog grooming.</i>

2063
00:52:38,000 --> 00:52:45,033
<i>♪ ♪</i>

2064
00:53:41,200 --> 00:53:44,400
<i>This has been a presentation</i>

2065
00:53:41,200 --> 00:53:44,400
<i>of HBO Sports.</i>


