there are a lot of beautiful places in
the world but lofoten might be the most
beautiful place
a chain of islands far north in norway
above the arctic circle
spectacular nature crystal clear blue
water
and weather changing in an instant
lufforton is also known for cod
the other fish dried cod is somewhat of
a delicacy here
you'll see it hanging on display all
over the islands
and the people here are known for being
very direct or as we say in our way they
speak from the liver
and they also swear a lot they're known
for that too
this trip was a surprise birthday
present from my girlfriend
we stayed in hennings about the entire
time a town perhaps best known for
having the most beautiful soccer field
in the world
lofoten islands were first inhabited 11
000 years ago
later it became home to the vikings and
this is where the largest viking
longhouse was found
if you follow me on instagram you've
probably seen this picture
and there's actually a video of it too
yeah it definitely wasn't as spectacular
as it looked but this video is not about
exposing myself
luffen has some world-class baldering
and that's what this video is about
this is your first time bouldering
outside martha yeah i'm
kind of uh scared that i won't be able
to climb anything that's
above like four plus and this one
kingfisher 7a
i've heard that everyone should try it
regardless of the level
because it's so nice guess i need to try
it too or wouldn't you say
matias yeah and i think also it's pretty
epic to
have her first outdoor bouldering
session on this iconic boulder this is
my local crag actually like i started
bouldering
uh like only four years ago after i
moved away from here but
my village is just 10 minutes that
direction so this is one of the closest
boulders to where i grew up
and you've done this bowler right yeah
i've done this boulder twice
but you've not done the sit start no
maybe we should try the sit start maybe
i should try this it start but i don't
even know if i'm in shape to do it
at all now because it's pretty on my
limit and uh
it's been raining for three weeks here
so i haven't really been boldering at
all so we have
three crash pads now i guess it's enough
for this bowler the top out doesn't look
so bad
it's like on the way here it was raining
and now it's nice
and then i guess we're gonna have some
sun
i wouldn't bet on the sun but it's not
like bergen
it's not librarian that's good nothing
is like bergen though
nice
such a classic it's so easy man i've
never seen anyone do it that fast
that was very easy the friction couldn't
have been any better
now it's perfect because it just rains
so the rock is clean
it's there's a little bit of wind and
it's like 10 degrees celsius
it's perfect are you supposed to climb
on top of a boulder when you finish it
you need to top out this okay but on
some bowlers you just let go of the top
jug
but it's always nicer if you have to top
out a boulder
yeah because then you're standing on top
of it you feel like you really conquered
it
so sticky right now that feels like you
can hold on to anything
all right nice it's officially a flash
party
now people can see how it's for normal
people
but i can't really warm up on seven bees
so i normally wouldn't ask you to try a
7a but this one is exceptionally good
what would you say about the luffoot and
rock i actually almost only bouldered
outside oslo in asmarka and in lofoten
and the is way superior
where do you start you start one
hand on this one okay yeah and one on
this oh you can reach there if not you
just start with both
yeah it's your first time climbing
outside uh it's a great
way to start your outdoor climbing
career yeah
normally this is the rock that ends up
on the front pages of the magazine so
i can try like one more time maybe
oh yeah that wasn't very far
well now you have to come back yeah you
have to
train a bunch first i think with your
progression
lately you're gonna quickly get on that
level
so this one is seven eight plus you said
right it's a nice bowler
maybe more it's not only a red like
the other one
oh
yeah pretty good
magnus you still got it did you rest
yourself into shape is that what you're
saying
yeah like often when i don't
climb somewhere or train so much i lose
a little bit of weight and that's also
pretty good for outdoor climbing
especially
so i feel like light as a feather
nice
come on
that was a good attempt didn't believe
in it you got to believe man
i have to believe if not there's not
even a point and you know when you
project it
you do it so many times so you have like
all the moves really quickly now i had
to stop every time and like how was it
to do it
yeah you had to think about the moves
yeah when you project something you
don't think about it you just
act and i don't have the you totally
this is totally below your level this is
at the peak of my level so then it's
kind of different
you've done this before though right
mathias yeah i've done it a couple years
ago but
now i didn't have a chance it's been my
personal best for over a year now so i
have to yeah
i feel like i have to start doing
exercises well you said you just bought
a moon wall
i just ordered it yeah a couple of days
ago that's gonna make a difference
when you start training on the moon wall
yeah i hope so yeah
because the gym over here it's only open
like three four three times a week okay
i think this is like one of the nicest
bowlers that i've ever tried
what is it about it that makes it so
nice i mean i don't understand how
the rock quality is amazing and also how
it climbs and just the way that the rock
is shaped
yeah even me who's a bit more noob than
him
and it's also like the only way up that
rock you know it's not like oh you're
not allowed to go
out right you're not allowed to go left
it's just like so simple
you start on a jug and you finish and
you stand on top of the bowler how was
the fall by the way
wet and cold it felt so bad because uh
you were going to flash it yeah and now
the video is really fast i was like
oh we'll get a nice fail this is how it
is
do
so where should we go next then maybe we
should go to monster so that you get to
try something a little bit more than one
try that's an a day right
yeah it's another day you've been
flashing everything so now i think we
have to go up to the eights to knock you
down a little
i don't have any beta on this but i'm
still going to try to flash it
it's going to be difficult there are a
lot of different holes i don't know
which ones to use but
i don't really care i'm going to give it
one flash burn and if not i'm just going
to
try to send it as quickly as possible
it's a little bit above my level but
i'll i'll try it with you magnus
this is what separates magnus from the
rest of us or the pros from the
noobs it took him like one minute to
figure out like and he has
an idea for me to take like a couple of
days
you can tell by the way that he looks at
it and how he solves it that he's been
doing this before
it's a little bit cold now yeah but it's
like perfect for bouldering it's almost
cheating when it's this good
my fingers froze a little bit now
oh
it's good it was just dry fire okay it
hurts a lot though
but still you don't want to warm up you
don't want to warm up
it's cool i thought i had it that time i
was not ready for the sound
of you falling that was sounding more
intense than at the bald regime
come on
still not as strong as magnus
i got scared because i jammed my healing
so high i was like
i'm gonna break
all right
i'm glad we found something you thought
was a little bit hard although it was
third drive
there's need to be around the corner
what do you say it'd be cool to try the
moose at least
i think this is the hardest boulder in
lofoten pressure's on well actually the
pressure is off then
oh
nice come on man
yeah at least i got to match that oh
that's hard that much
such a bad omniclin you did it
differently than you thought you were
either go like this come in and match
and then you have to
turn this around but i think this way
it's better
yeah because you don't have to do that
move maybe you can try with a
one minute warm-up and see if that helps
but i'm just gonna try the all the moves
yeah and then start trying it from the
ground again
so
oh
i can't get my fingers into it now weird
how you
manage that i did that first time on the
first try yeah
that's why i don't warm up my fingers
are warm and sweaty
you're saying you're better when you're
cold yeah
come on come on come on come on
it feels impossible now i don't know how
i did that first time
it you did it very easily too so yeah
shirt comes on that's a bit unusual for
you yeah
well that means it's over uh
but we're going to try a 7c classic 7c
it was one of the first seven seas it
was
like the hardest bowler in location for
a while you should get to climb a little
bit as well yeah
so far you've only touched a few holes
on
kingfisher and it would be cool to come
back here and try some of these
bowlers for real i mean this is not the
only hp here
they're more yeah there are a lot of
heart boulders here yeah
a lot of projects and i think it'd be
cool to spend like
a month up here but don't you take like
little two short breaks when you're
trying this hard boulders like normally
yeah people do like at least five minute
breaks when they're on eight piece
i don't have patience for that
this one looks hard for 17. it's hard to
say how to do it i don't
really have a plan i couldn't get very
far so i
don't remember that much yeah there's
this story about this german really
strong climber who was here when he saw
the other guy struggling with him and
then he just laughed and said ah
it is it's a hook back in the days where
you could be a bit cocky you know
yeah you're saying you're not allowed to
be cocky anymore
i think you are but people are so
politically correct
yay
i have a new mission here in uh
bouldering i became a reference
boulderer
which is kind of pretty cool but hard oh
it's not that hard but
it's nice okay i think that was it for
me today now
you guys can climb for the rest of the
day
but that was a really cool bowler glad
you enjoyed it
you want to try to i'm going to have a
go so that you have a reference point
looked a little bit too easy there click
on this and then right foot is just
right down yeah and then and then you go
left hand
to this and then left hand and then you
release the toe
oh yeah yeah something like here
come on yeah yeah come on let's go
on that was good
really good i did a different bet right
here
it will be a pb when i do this [ __ ] yeah
i have a mental block on it
sorry not today but one day is it easy
to find people to bother with here in
norfolk
uh it's not that easy like i've been
messaging these guys on
instagram be like hey guys i need a crew
but we live an hour apart as well so
it's not that easy and i really i really
suck at bouldering alone
because i get scared and i don't push
myself enough
you're surfing as well right i do uh
bouldering and surfing and then i have
like this place in flagstaff that are
rent out to tourists so i have like
uh it's a small guest house that's where
i'm building the moon wall actually to
try to get more climbers
to visit us surfing and bouldering is
world class
i only bouldered here and i only served
here so or i surfed other places as well
but
with the bouldering i have some sort of
natural talent with
surfing i have absolutely no talent at
all but i still enjoy it a lot
i think actually you know bouldering
sort of makes you like a little bit like
this
and then the surfing makes you a little
bit like this so maybe if you do both
you'll be a bit normal
you sure you want your first ever bowler
to be a high ball pretty high
oh that it's oh it's a high boulder
i mean i think it looks like it's like a
four plus or
three plus or something like that so
getting down was the hardest parts was
that a good warm-up
yeah that was okay yeah i climbed super
slowly though i just wanted to be sure
that
i didn't take any risks
since uh you only have two crash pads
yeah
it was pretty sketchy i mean that
boulder was probably like six meters
tall
so this here is a 6a and it looks really
nice
i think it's a perfect braid for you but
it's like there's one
pretty long move so the landing here is
kind of
bad as you see it's not flat i know i
think i should climb it first just to
find the good holes and find the beta
yeah i love that and then i can also put
some chalk and some tick marks maybe if
you need to
do you have to like top it yeah this one
you have to top up okay
some borders you top up some bowlers you
don't there are no colored holes here
except for white holes and i think this
is a sit start too so you have to start
really low
start here probably from a sitting
position you have to do a lift off
so like this and then you can store okay
and then you start
yeah okay that makes sense so that's
harder than doing a stand start
yeah i don't know you could do this
bowler as a stand start too
there's not so many falls here
oh tiny yeah
i don't know it's a little bit sketchy
for you maybe
so the first move was actually not so
easy maybe you should just start with
the stand start
and then you can do the sit start later
if you do the stand start okay
i'll give you a good spot at least i
feel a lot safer just having someone
spotting me is that right correct or
spotting yeah
uh
that was scary it was really scary it
was
fun though i get a lot of adrenaline
it's really scary
probably looks super stupid on the
camera and got up like one meter the
problem isn't the height
the problem is that it's so uneven the
ground yeah
so you feel like you fall really weird
yeah i definitely wasn't able to
try my hardest because i was scared
and i was like i have to jump i have to
jump maybe we should try a different one
i think we need more pads for this one
yeah i think that one over there is like
a five plus or maybe 6a a lot of small
holes which i
like yeah it would be nice to like
finish a boulder that's a bit harder
than like four plus
so yeah
life
dog
so
yep
maybe not the most fun bowler but i like
it though because it was the really
small
crimpy holes yeah there were holes
everywhere but none of them were
like really good yeah i'm not good at
knowing like what's a good looking
bowler
you keep talking about like a nice line
yeah nice line and like
to me like everything kind of looks the
same but you're always like oh my god
this is so like aesthetically like
king fisher is a nice line yeah it's
very obvious where to climb
on that bowler i mean to me it wouldn't
have been if like you didn't tell me but
you also have the tape on your finger
yeah hardcore i'm just
waiting for that to happen so i feel
like yes you take my fingers now
look like a real climber yeah we see
that on instagram you know people taping
their fingers
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you