The Niagara Escarpment. 尼亚加拉悬崖
Hundreds of miles of breathtaking landscape. 数百英里的惊人地形
An ancient wall of rock standing strong 一堵古老的岩石墙
against the powerful forces of time. 顶住了时间的强大力量
It brands the Great Lakes Region 它标志着从安大略湖
from Lake Ontario to Lake Michigan. 到密歇根湖的五大湖区
A captivating part of the world that tells magical stories 这是一个迷人的地方
of age-old tropical coral reefs, 讲述了古老的热带珊瑚礁、
colossal glaciers 巨大的冰川
and haunting First Nation's lore. 和令人难忘的原住民的传说
Epic, enchanting and everlasting. 史诗般的，迷人的，永恒的
The Niagara Escarpment is a true geological masterpiece. 尼亚加拉悬崖是真正的地质杰作
The Niagara Escarpment. 尼亚加拉悬崖
An ancient meandering cliff. 一座古老蜿蜒的悬崖
450 miles long. 450英里长
At its highest point,almost 1,700 feet. 它的最高点约1700英尺
The escarpment weaves its way through the Great Lakes Region 悬崖蜿蜒穿过北美中部
in the heart of central North America. 中心的五大湖地区
Stretching from Upstate New York, 从纽约州北部
on the south shore of Lake Ontario, 直到安大略湖南岸
northwest through the Canadian province of Ontario. 西北穿过加拿大安大略省
It fringes Lake Huron and Lake Michigan 它位于休伦湖和密歇根湖的边缘
and trails off just past Green Bay, Wisconsin. 途经威斯康星州的格林湾
In its present state, 当前状态下
the Niagara Escarpment is one of the geological gems 尼亚加拉悬崖是
of North America. 北美的地质瑰宝之一
But there is no question 但毫无疑问
that the crown jewel of the escarpment itself 悬崖顶上的明珠是
is Niagara Falls. 尼亚加拉瀑布
A true phenomenon of the natural world. 一个自然界的奇迹
It straddles the border between Canada and The United States 它横跨加拿大和美国的边境
and is part of the Niagara River- 是尼亚加拉河的一部分
a 36-mile waterway that connects Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. 这条36英里长的水道连接着伊利湖和安大略湖
The water from four of the five Great Lakes 五大湖中四大湖的水
passes through here, 从这里流过
on its way to Lake Ontario and beyond. 然后到达安大略湖和更远的地方
From north to south, 从北到南
the river features an elevation drop of 330 feet. 这条河的海拔下降了330英尺
More than half the drop in elevation happens right here. 超过一半的海拔下降发生在这里
The crest line of these falls covers only 600 yards 瀑布的顶线仅覆盖尼亚加拉悬崖
of the Niagara Escarpment's 450 miles. 450英里长度中的600码
Yet, the impact is so dramatic, 然而，影响是如此令人吃惊
it has become one of the most popular tourist destinations 它已经成为北美最受欢迎的
in North America. 旅游目的地之一
It is the only section of the escarpment 这是大多数人看到的
that most will ever see. 悬崖的唯一部分
It's ancient geological history and composition 这是一段古老的地质历史
is no different than any other part of the escarpment. 它的组成与悬崖的其他部分没有什么不同
Except for one thing, water. 除了一件事，水
More than 45 million gallons of water- 超过4500万加仑的水
that's the total combined volume that goes over the crest lines 这是美国和加拿大两边瀑布
of the American and Canadian falls every minute. 每分钟的水量总和
More than the volume of an Olympic-sized 每秒钟水量比奥运会
swimming pool every second. 游泳池的水容量还要大
Most comes over this crest on the Canadian side. 大部分来自加拿大这边的悬崖顶
Horse Shoe Falls,named for its shape. 马蹄瀑布（又名加拿大瀑布），因其形状而得名
It is 170 feet high, 它有170英尺高
with a crest line more than 2,000 feet wide. 山脊线超过2000英尺宽
Niagara Falls was born about 12,000 years ago 尼亚加拉瀑布诞生于大约1万2千年前
when water released from melting glaciers 当时融化的冰川释放出的水
poured into what is now the Niagara River. 流入现在的尼亚加拉河
Today, 如今
water from the river hurls over the edge of the escarpment 河水以每秒32英尺的速度
at a speed of 32 feet per second. 从悬崖边缘倾泻而下
The level of erosion that has occurred here 这里发生的侵蚀程度
is far greater than at any other point 比悬崖上的其他地方
on the escarpment. 都要严重得多
12,000 years ago, 1万2千年前
Niagara Falls was 7 miles downriver from where it is now. 尼亚加拉瀑布在下游距现在的位置7英里的地方
Around the turn of the century, 世纪之交
the rate of the falls erosion was about 4 feet each year. 瀑布的侵蚀速度大约是每年4英尺
Today, it's been artificially reduced 如今，在加拿大瀑布
to less than 1 foot per year on the Canadian falls. 它被人为地减少到每年不足1英尺
The reason for this manmade intervention is that 这种人为干预的原因是
this part of the escarpment is more than just a pretty picture. 悬崖的这一部分不仅仅是一幅美丽的画面
In addition to precious tourist dollars, 除了宝贵的旅游收入
Niagara Falls generates valuable hydroelectric power, 尼亚加拉瀑布还能产生重要的水力发电
a resource worth preserving. 这是一种值得保护的资源
There is a small portion of the Horse Shoe Falls 马蹄瀑布有一小部分
on the American side, 位于美国境内
along with two more distinct sections of the falls. 另外还有两个截然不同的部分
At 56 feet wide, 新娘面纱瀑布宽56英尺
the Bridal Veil Falls is the smallest section, 是最小的部分
named for its unmistakable resemblance to a bridal veil. 得名于它与新娘面纱的明显相似之处
On the other side of this precarious piece of land, 在这片危险土地的另一边
is the American Falls. 是美国瀑布
A much larger section of the falls 瀑布的一个更大的部分
that connects to Prospect Point in New York State. 连接到纽约州的观景点
It is 180 feet high. 它有180英尺高
It's crest line is 1,075 feet wide. 山脊线宽1075英尺
Perhaps the most memorable human intervention 也许尼亚加拉瀑布历史上
in the history of Niagara Falls happened here. 最令人难忘的人为干预就发生在这里
In 1931 and 1954, 1931年和1954年
sections of rock fell to the bottom of the American falls. 部分岩石落到了美国瀑布的底部
Fears grew that this section of the falls would soon erode, 越来越多的人担心这段瀑布很快就会被侵蚀
crumbling into a series of unsightly rapids 变成一串难看的急流
and in the process, 并在此过程中
dealing a huge blow to the local economy. 对当地经济造成巨大打击
In 1969, a team from the US Army was called upon 1969年，一支来自美军的队伍
to actually stop the American Falls completely 被命令真正地阻止美国瀑布的沦陷
and they did it. 他们做到了
The army built a 600-foot dam 军队用将近3万吨岩石
from almost 30,000 tonnes of rock 建造了一座600英尺高的大坝
to divert the flow of water. 以分流水流
The result was a truly bizarre sight. 结果产生了一个真正奇怪的景象
The dolomite capped portion of the Niagara Escarpment 尼亚加拉悬崖上白云石
was naked for all to see. 覆盖的部分裸露出来
With the giant tap shut off, 巨大的水流断开后
army personnel cleared some of the fallen rock 军队人员清除了一些
from the base of the falls,to improve its appearance. 从瀑布底部落下的岩石以改善其外观
Engineers mechanically bolted some faults on the escarpment 工程师们用机械栓住悬崖上的一些断层
to prevent further erosion. 以阻止进一步的侵蚀
After they had collected as much research and data as they could, 在他们收集了尽可能多的研究和数据后
the dam was removed in November of the same year. 大坝于同年11月被拆除
Today, 75,000 gallons per second flow over the crest. 如今，每秒有75000加仑的波峰流过
It's a staggering amount. 这是一个惊人的数字
Yet, it represents just 10% of the total amount of water 然而，它只占整个瀑布
flowing over the entire falls. 总水量的10%
In all its glory,Niagara Falls is spectacular 尼亚加拉瀑布的壮丽令人叹为观止
and the escarpment on which it is found, 它所在的绝壁
is one of the most beautiful geological marvels 是这片大陆和这个星球上
on the continent and the planet. 最美丽的地质奇观之一
It's ancient origins begin underwater. 它起源于水下
To understand the Niagara Escarpment, 要了解尼亚加拉悬崖
we have to understand a very long time scale, 我们必须去了解一个很长的时间尺度
a geological time scale. 一个地质时间尺度
For millions of years, the crust under the Michigan basin 几百万年来，密歇根盆地下的
was relatively stable. 地壳相对稳定
Gently warping to form a giant basin, 缓慢地翘曲形成一个
about 480 miles across. 480英里宽的巨大盆地
During the Silurian Period,which was 450 million years ago, 在四亿五千万年前的志留纪
that large basin was a large inland sea. 那个大盆地是一片巨大的内陆海
So, right now through here,450 million years ago, 所以，假如今天是在四亿五千万年前
we'd have to be anchored in a boat 那我们必须在一艘船上
to have this conversation. 才能进行这样的对话
The Silurian Period occurred 200 million years 志留纪是恐龙出现在
before dinosaurs roamed the earth. 地球上之前2亿年
Animals with backbones were only just appearing 有脊椎的动物才刚刚
in the oceans. 出现在海洋里
This vast, calm inland sea is referred to by geologists 这片广阔而平静的内陆海被地质学家
as the Michigan Basin. 称为密歇根盆地
It represents a rare geologically peaceful time 对地球的这一地区来说
for this part of the planet. 这是一段难得的地质平静时期
The geologic history of Canada, 在加拿大的地质历史上
you see violent episodes when you build mountains 当造山运动时你会看到剧烈的变化
and then there're quite episodes when seas cover much of Canada. 而当海洋覆盖加拿大大部分地区时就会出现一些插曲
So, the thing about modern reefs and the Caribbean, 所以，现代珊瑚礁和加勒比海的
beautiful, nice clear,aquamarine waters 美丽，清澈，蓝绿色的水域
and that covered huge areas of Canada at one time. 曾经覆盖了加拿大的大片地区
And that's because there was no mountain building going on, 那是因为当时还没有造山运动
it was quiet tectonically. 地质构造上很安静
The Niagara Escarpment and the whole parts of Ontario 尼亚加拉悬崖和安大略湖的整个部分
records perhaps the quietest period in the history of Canada. 也许是加拿大地质历史上最安静的时期
About 400 million years ago, 大约4亿年前
there were these giant inland seas 这些巨大的内陆海
that virtually covered the whole country. 几乎覆盖了整个国家
And there's no modern analog, 没有现代的类似物
there's no modern parallel anywhere in the world today. 现今世界上任何地方都没有类似的实例
During the Silurian Period, 志留纪时期
the tectonic plate of continental North America 北美大陆的构造板块
was at lower latitudes than it is today. 处于较低的纬度
Geological forces caused the Michigan basin to sink down 地质力量导致密歇根盆地
in the middle and rise along the edges. 中部下沉边缘上升
Sea levels rose,the climate warmed. 海平面上升，气候变暖
The vast shallow seas basked in sunlight. 广阔的浅海沐浴在阳光下
And transformed this body of water into a giant incubator 并将这片水域变成了一个巨大的孵化器
that sparked an explosive period in the evolution of marine life. 进入了海洋生物进化的爆炸性时期
Amazing things began to happen. 神奇的事情开始发生
Coral reefs formed. 珊瑚礁形成
The first ever fish with cartilage skeletons appeared. 第一条有软骨骨骼的鱼出现了
Plants began to grow on land. 植物开始在陆地上生长
Then, air breathing creatures such a millipedes, centipedes 然后，呼吸空气的生物如千足虫、蜈蚣
and primitive arachnids, 和原始蜘蛛
helped create the earliest terrestrial food web. 帮助创造了最早的陆地食物网
This primordial ecosystem thrived for millions of years. 这种原始的生态系统繁荣了数百万年
Immeasurable numbers of marine creatures 无数的海洋生物在这里
lived and died here, 生存和死亡
while rivers fed the inland sea, 而河流哺育着内陆海
bringing sand, silt and clay into the water. 把沙子、淤泥和粘土带入水中
Coral and shells built up, 珊瑚、贝壳
along with a growing deposit of calcium. 和越来越多的钙质堆积在一起
These layers began to harden. 这些沉积层开始变硬
Time passed. 时间流逝
Sand became sandstone. 沙子变成砂岩
Clay became shale. 粘土变成泥页岩
Calcium carbonate became limestone. 碳酸钙变成石灰岩
Magnesium in the water infiltrated 水中的镁渗入
layers of calcium carbonate mud,creating dolomite- 碳酸钙泥层形成了白云石
a rock similar to limestone but much harder. 一种类似于石灰岩但坚硬得多的岩石
Layer upon layer, 一层一层地
these dramatically different rock types built up. 这些不同类型的岩石形成了
Water levels in this ancient sea, 在这片古老的海域
changed frequently, 水位变化频繁
as did the location of the ancient coastline. 古海岸线的位置也是如此
The sea slowly dried up. 海水慢慢地干涸了
Then about 200 million years ago, 大约两亿年前
everything changed. 一切都改变了
These layers, built up over millions of years, 这些岩层是经过数百万年的累积而成的
formed the building blocks for the escarpment. 形成了悬崖的构造单元
It's important to understand that in the sea, 要明白重要的一点，在海洋中
the layers are being laid down one on top of each other 这些岩层是经过数百万年
over millions of years. 层层堆叠而成
Once many layers of sediment were laid down 一旦在内陆的志留纪浅海
in the shallow inland Silurian Sea, 沉积了许多层沉积物
the warping of the basin 盆地的翘曲
elevated the sediments above water 将沉积物抬升到水面之上
to expose the edge of the basin as an escarpment. 盆地边缘暴露为陡坡
And so, you've got an edge that's now exposed 这样就有了一条露出来的边缘
and those top layers, 上面的那些岩层
which were composed of a member of lifelike reefs 是由一种类似生命的礁石
and all those living organisms, 和所有那些活着的生物组成
formed in conditions that had a lot of magnesium. 在含有大量镁的条件下形成的
So, it's not just calcium carbonate, 所以，不只是碳酸钙
which is limestone. 而是石灰石
It's calcium carbonate with a secret ingredient, magnesium. 由碳酸钙和一种秘密成分镁组成
So, it's calcium-magnesium carbonate, 这是碳酸钙镁
which is much harder. 要硬得多
So, those top plates in that basin are hard rock, 所以，盆地里的那些顶板是坚硬的岩石
really hard rock compared to the softer ones below. 和下面那些较软的岩石相比真的很坚硬
With the inland sea gone, 随着内陆海的消失
further geological shifting occurred in the region. 该地区发生了进一步的地质移动
The edge of the Michigan Basin began to lift, 密歇根盆地的边缘开始上升
marking the first physical statement 标志着我们今天所知道的
of the Niagara Escarpment as we know it today. 尼亚加拉悬崖的第一个物理特征
Over millions of years, 数百万年以来
natural erosion wore down the landscape, 自然侵蚀着这片土地
obliterating softer layers of sandstone and shale. 淹没了较软的砂岩和页岩层
But dolomite is significantly harder, 但白云石的硬度要大得多
so hard that not even the weathering power of time 甚至连时间的风化能力
can penetrate it. 都无法穿透它
For 200 million years, 2亿年以来
dolomite shielded the softer rock 白云石保护着较软的岩石
from earth-shaking events. 不受地震的影响
But there was one force in nature 但是自然界中有一种力是它顶不住的
it could not withstand, ice. 那就是冰
Unimaginably vast ice sheets, 难以想象的巨大冰原
crept down to the Michigan Basin. 缓缓向密歇根盆地移动
In many ways, it's the events of the last 2 million years, 在很多方面，这是过去200万年发生的事件
in other words,quite recent to geologists, 换句话说，对于地质学家这是最近发生的事件
which have been the most profound. 这是意义深远的
Because it seemed the repeated development of ice sheets, 因为似乎是冰盖的重复发育
which,you know, 你知道
we're not talking about something in a hockey arena, 我们说的不是冰球场上的什么东西
we're talking about ice sheets that are 3 or 4 kilometers thick 我们说的是3到4公里厚的冰盖在移动
and they're moving and they're dragging debris at their base. 底部拖着碎片
So, they're very, very effective agents of erosion 所以，它们是非常非常有效的侵蚀剂
and all the main lakes in Canada 加拿大所有的主要湖泊
that lie around the edge of the shield, 都位于地盾边缘
including the Great Lakes,have all been dug out, 包括五大湖基本上都是
basically, by ice sheets. 被冰盖挖出来的
So, the last 5 minutes, if you like, 所以在过去的5分钟里，如果你愿意
of the geologic history have been the most profound 地质历史最深刻的是
in terms of how they've affected the landscape in Canada. 它们如何影响加拿大的地形
For 2-1/2 million years,these monstrous sheets of ice 在250万年的时间里这些巨大的冰盖
gave the regionan epic pounding. 给这个地区带来了巨大的冲击
For about a million years to 10,000 years ago, 大约100万到1万年前
was our last glacial period 是最后一个冰河期
and we had four successive glaciers 在这片土地上
across this landscapes, 有四个连续的冰川
the last one leaving about 10,000 years ago. 最后一个大约在1万年前消逝
So, here again, this landscape which we have the escarpment 这里是陡坡地形
but then, you've got 3-1/2 kilometers thick of ice. 但是有3.5千米厚的冰
And so, there's a lot of weight and a lot of plowing, 有很多重量和大量的地形切割
a lot of, you know,pushing with the force 很多，你知道的，冰的重量
behind that weight of the ice. 在背后推动
And also,at the base of the ice, 同时，在冰的底部
you have boulders and some rocks the sizes of houses. 你会看到冰砾和一些房子大小的石头
The grid of that base is very aggressive. 地基的网格非常具有很强侵蚀性
So, you've got this monumental scouring pad 所以，就有了这个巨大的百洁布
that's scrapping across the landscape as well. 它刮遍了整个地形
And it's shaped-- 它的形状
in some area you can see the corrugated nature of it, 在某些地方你可以看到它的波纹本质
where it's just, kind of,plowed and found weaknesses 它只是，某种程度上，切割并发现了一些薄弱点
that's able to dig out,in other areas where it's-- 挖出来，在其他地方
Like someone was playing with it and scraping it all around 就像有人在玩弄它，切割它周围
and shaping it. 并塑造它
So, it's clearly being manipulative by the glaciers. 所以这显然是冰川在操纵
Over the next few thousand years, 在接下来的几千年里
glaciers that conquered the land began their retreat. 征服这片土地的冰川开始退缩
The giants were melting, 巨大的冰川正在融化
water frozen in time for thousands of years 水在冰川脚下
pooled at the feet of the glaciers. 凝结了几千年
One by one, ice dams burst under the weight of the rising water. 冰坝在不断上涨的水的重压下一个接一个地决堤了
Temperatures increased, 气温上升
unleashing violent floods onto the surrounding land. 给周围的土地带来了猛烈的洪水
And finally the Great Lakes region was freed 最终，五大湖地区
from its frozen oppressor. 摆脱了冰冻的压迫
With the weight of its icy burden lifted, 随着冰川负荷的减轻
the Niagara Escarpment continued to rise. 尼亚加拉悬崖继续上升
That's a tremendous amount of weight on top of the landscape 地面上巨大的重量
and when the glaciers retreated,taking that weight off, 在冰川后退时减轻
it's like pulling your finger out of a wet sponge, 就像从湿海绵里抽出手指
it slowly springs back. 它会慢慢地弹回来
And that rebound, it's known as "Isostatic Rebound" 这种反弹被称为"均衡反弹"
that has occurred on the landscape here, 发生在这片土地上
it's even happening now. 甚至现在也在发生
We're actually rebounding at about 30 cm a century. 我们实际上是在以每世纪30厘米的速度反弹
And we probably have about another 40 meters to go 在安大略省西南部可能还要反弹40米
in South West Ontario to fully recover from the glaciers. 才能完全恢复到冰川压迫之前的高度
The epic geological history of this place 这个地方史诗般的地质史
is now interwoven with its ecosystem. 现在与它的生态系统交织在一起
In most areas of the escarpment,water bleeds through the rock, 在悬崖的大部分地区水流穿过岩石
quenching ancient cedar trees,some nearly 2,000 years old 浇灭了古老的雪松，有些雪松已有近2000年的历史
that cling precariously to the bluffs. 摇摇欲坠地依附在悬崖峭壁上
Both humans and wolves use these cliffs 人类和狼都利用这些悬崖
as a look out for massive herds of caribou, 来寻找大量的驯鹿群
which ranged much farther south during colder times. 这些驯鹿在寒冷的季节向南迁徙
There are signs that humans inhabited these rocks 有迹象表明人类在13000多年前
more than 13,000 years ago. 就居住在这些岩石上
The escarpment is dotted with ancient settlements, 悬崖上点缀着古老的定居点
villages and campsites. 村庄和营地
Many of these histories are long forgotten. 许多这样的历史早已被遗忘
But here on the Bruce Peninsula, 但在布鲁斯半岛
the lore of some First Nations peoples has endured. 一些原住民的传说却流传了下来
This is part of the traditional homeland 这是索金原住民
of the Saugeen First Nations. 传统家园的一部分
This is an alliance of two First Nations, 这是一个由两支原住民组成的联盟
the Chippewas of Nawash Unceded First Nation 一支是纳瓦什齐佩瓦原住民
and the Saugeen First Nation. 另一支是索基恩原住民
This is part of their traditional homeland. 这是他们传统家园的一部分
And this area then, became part of the province of Canada 这个地区在1854年
in 1854. 成为加拿大的一部分
And that's when the name was changed 从那时起，这个名字
from Saugeen Neyaashiinigmiing or Saugeen Peninsula-- 就从索基恩纳瓦什尼格明或索基恩半岛
Indian Peninsula to Bruce Peninsula. 改为布鲁斯半岛
And that was done to honor James Bruce, 这是为了纪念当时的
who was Canada's Governor General at that time. 加拿大总督詹姆斯·布鲁斯
Tribes of First Nations' peoples have lived along the escarpment 原住民的部落已经在悬崖边生活了数千年
for thousands of years. 生活了数千年
For them, some of the amazing rock formations 对他们来说，一些令人惊叹的岩层是圣地
are sacred sites. 是圣地
Some indigenous people have strong spiritual beliefs, 一些土著人有着强烈的精神信仰
intrinsically connected to the landscape. 与自然地形有着内在的联系
This interweaving of spirituality and geology 这种灵性与地质学的交织
has been coined "Geomythology". 被称为“地球神学”
It is the study of oral traditions 它是对科学文化出现前创造的
created by pre-scientific cultures 口头传统的研究
to explain geological phenomenon. 用来解释地质现象
My focus has always been the stories 我的重点一直是故事
and being able to work here in Bruce Peninsula National Park, 能够在布鲁斯半岛国家公园工作
I then have the opportunity to take our people-- 我就有机会把我们的人民
my people's traditional stories and connect these stories 我的人民的传统故事
to the current geological research. 与当前的地质研究联系起来
One of the most striking stories is the legend of Standing Rock. 最引人注目的故事之一是关于直立岩的传说
For the Huron First Nation,the afterlife was referred to as 对休伦原住民来说来世被称为
"The Path to the Village of Souls". “灵魂村庄之路”
This pathway was marked by a rock called "The Watcher". 这条道路被一块叫做“观察者”的岩石所标记
Here, the deceased waited for their turn 在这里，死者等待着轮回
to walk through a door and into the underworld- 他们穿过一扇门进入阴间
the Village of Souls. 灵魂村庄
According to legend, 根据传说
to gain entry into the village of souls, 为了进入灵魂村庄
the dead were required to enter a cabin 死者被要求进入小屋
where a man named "Pierce-head" waited. 一个名叫“刺头者”的人正在等待
As the dead souls entered, 当死者走进来的时候
Pierce-head cracked their skulls open, 刺头者敲开他们的头盖骨
pulled out their brains and kept them for himself. 把他们的大脑挖出来自己留下
A macabre tale. 一个可怕的故事
But it was believed that as a rite of passage 但人们认为作为通往来世的
to the afterlife, 一种仪式
the brains of the dead needed to be removed 死者的大脑需要被移走
as an act of mercy, 作为一种慈悲的行为
so they could not bring their memories to the afterlife 这样他们就不能把记忆带到来世
or yearn for their past lives. 也不用怀念过去的生活
This rock and these caves 这些岩石和洞穴
are physical representations of this mythology. 是这个神话的物理表现
To this day, the standing rock is a haunting site. 直到今天，直立岩仍然是一个令人难以忘怀的地方
It appears to change its appearance 它似乎会改变它的外观
depending on lighting and vantage point. 取决于光线和有利的位置
Because of this, 正因为如此
it is thought that the First Nations' people here 这里的原住民认为它既是观察者
saw it as both The Watcher and the Head Piercer. 又是穿针引线的人
The cracks and fissures leading down to the rock 通往岩石的裂缝和裂缝
might've been thought of as the meeting place 可能被认为是上层中层
of the upper, middle and the lower worlds. 和下层世界的交汇处
The varying rates of erosion 不同岩石类型的
of the dramatically different rock types here 侵蚀速率
are one natural contributor to these unique formations. 是这些独特岩层形成的自然原因之一
But there is another cause,winter. 但是还有另一个原因，冬天
What ends up happening is water is continuously, 最终的结果是
kind of, seeping through the rock from high up on the cliffs. 水不断地从悬崖上的岩石中渗出
This limestone is full of fissures and tunnels 这种石灰岩充满了裂缝和洞穴
and different cracks and crevices 以及各种各样的裂纹和缝隙
where water is continuously seeping into the cracks. 水不断渗透到裂缝中
As the water freezes in the fall and onwards to the winter time 当水在秋天结冰，到了冬天
that that the ice expands 冰就会膨胀
and over time that thawing and freezing of that water 随着时间的推移
in those cracks and those fissures 这些裂纹和缝隙里的水会融化和冻结
has the effect of breaking apart and crumbling apart 从而导致岩壁
the cliff face. 崩裂和破碎
And over time, of course,the rock breaks free 当然，随着时间的推移
and crashes down on the shoreline below. 岩石会断裂掉落撞上下面的湖岸线
Now, the result of this 现在，这样的结果是
is that you get everything from smaller plate-size rocks 从盘子大小的岩石开始能得到所有类型
that are a little bit challenging to walk on 继续下去有点挑战性
but sometimes, 但有时
you get these really incredible sized boulders. 你得到这些难以置信尺寸的巨石
Imposing as it may seem, 虽然看起来很壮观
the escarpment is actually being pushed back, 但悬崖实际上
eroded bit by bit, 是被外部的波浪和天气
by waves and weather from the outside 还有内部的冻融
and freeze and thaw from the inside. 一点一点地侵蚀
While it is hard to imagine that it will one day be gone, 虽然很难想象它有一天会消失
the effects of time are precisely 但正是时间的影响
what make it so compelling. 让它如此引人注目
Four miles off the coast of the Bruce Peninsula, 距布鲁斯半岛海岸4英里处
sits one of the Niagara Escarpment's 坐落着尼亚加拉悬崖
most remarkable sites. 最著名的景点之一
This is Flower Pot Island. 这里是花盆岛
These columns of rock were once part of the cliff face. 这些石柱曾经是峭壁的一部分
Over millions of years, 经过数百万年的时间
softer rock of the escarpment crumbled away, 悬崖上较软的岩石
eroded by wind and rain, 被风、雨、冰和波浪
ice and pounding waves. 侵蚀而破碎
Only the harder rock remained in the shape of flower pots. 只有较硬的岩石还保留着花盆的形状
This extraordinary landmark of the escarpment 这个悬崖边的非凡地标
is located in Fathom Five National Marine Park. 位于布鲁斯半岛国家海滨公园
It is accessible only by boat 它只有坐船才能到达
and it is a haven for hikers and explorers. 是远足者和探险者的天堂
The flower pots are each about 60 feet high. 每个花盆大约有60英尺高
There was a third flower pot,until it collapsed in 1903. 第三个花盆在1903年倒塌
Someday, time will claim the remaining two. 总有一天，时间会召唤走剩下的两个
But until then, their hard dolomite caps will endure. 但在那之前，它们坚硬的白云石帽子将经久不衰
The powers of the elements here are merciless. 这里的元素的力量是无情的
They carve and shape all parts of the Niagara Escarpment, 他们雕刻和塑造了尼亚加拉悬崖的所有部分
leaving incredible rock formations in their wake. 留下了令人难以置信的岩层
Just south of Flower Pot Island,is Indian Head Cove. 就在花盆岛的南面是印第安酋长小湖湾
Overlooking the cove is overhanging point. 俯瞰海湾的悬挑点
The top layer,the cap rock is dolomite, 顶盖层是白云石
which is much more resistant to erosion 相对于下面较软的材料
versus the softer material which is underneath. 白云石更能抵抗侵蚀
And you can see it's like plate. 你可以看到它就像盘子
So, the hard rock is just hanging out there 坚硬的岩石就在那里
as it's slowly being undercut. 它正在慢慢被切割
As you're walking up above on the cliff, 当你走在悬崖上面
there's an opportunity where there's a bit of a rock 有时候会有一块岩石
that comes right out 突出悬崖
and it gives you the opportunity to, kind of, 站在这一点上给了你
stand out on that point 得到开阔视野的机会
and get almost 180° sweep of the water 能看到近180°的水域
and the area around you. 以及你周围的区域
It's really quite impressive. 这真的很令人印象深刻
Some of these incredible landscapes 有些令人难以置信的地形对人
have incredible effect on people. 产生了难以置信的影响
When you stand out on the cliff edge 当你站在悬崖边
and you're looking over these vistas, 放眼四望
you can't help but feel tiny,you can't help but feel small. 你会情不自禁地觉得自己很渺小
And at the same time,it really fills you up with, 与此同时它真的让你充满
you know,with all the good stuff. 你知道，所有的好东西
You feel better,you feel healthier, 你感觉更好，你感觉更健康
you feel, like, you can,you know, go back 你感觉你可以，你知道，往后
and you're full of energy and it's-- 你充满了能量
it's a really nice place to be and to visit. 这是一个参观的好地方
Just underneath the overhang, 就在悬挑岩石的下面
is a view that is equally compelling 有同样引人注目但又非常不同的
but very different 看点
because it allows you to look back in time. 因为它能让你回顾过去
Millions of years ago,that high cliff face now, 数百万年前，那个高高的悬崖表面
was actually,right at sea level 实际上，就在海平面上
and the waves of the water at that time 当时的海浪不断地
were working away at that rock face 侵蚀着那个岩石表面
and really chiseling it out and carving it out. 把它凿开并雕刻出来
What a lot of visitors will do is they'll actually hike down 很多游客会在悬崖下
underneath the cliff top 徒步旅行
and what they find is a pretty remarkable geological formation 他们会发现一个非常引人注目的地质构造
where the rock has been carved or cut out, over time, 来自各种不同的侵蚀和波浪作用，随着时间的推移
from all the different forces of erosion and wave action. 岩石在这里被雕刻或切割出来
The opportunity to stand inside a natural structure 每年都有更多的游客
created millions of years ago 有机会站在数百万年前
is one taken by more visitors each year. 创造的自然结构中
Here you have within 3 to 4-hour drive 这里3到4小时的车程就可以
large urban centers. 到达大型城市中心
And within 20 minutes from the parking lot, 在离停车场20分钟路程内
you can find yourself completely alone 你就会发现你自己完全独自
in this amazing,spectacular area 在这个惊人的壮观的区域
with these sweeping vistas of these cliffs 这些悬崖的远景
and this Georgian Bay water and this pristine landscape. 乔治亚湾的水和这个原始的地形
And it's pretty incredible to have that accessibility 在距离主要城市中心这么近的地方就能到达
in such a short distance from major urban centers. 真是令人难以置信
If we were to go back 10 years, 如果我们回到10年前
we'd be looking at our visitation in the park here, 我们在这里的公园里参观时
which would be around 150,000 visitors a year. 每年大约有15万游客
What we've seen in the last 8 years 在过去的8年里
is a meteoric rise in visitation, 我们看到的是游客数量的飞速增长
to the point where now in Bruce Peninsula National Park, 现在在布鲁斯半岛国家公园
we're getting about 300,000 visitors a year. 每年大约有30万游客
When you combined that with Fathom Five, 当你把这个数字和布鲁斯半岛国家海滨公园结合起来
the number is roughly up around half a million. 这个数字大约上升到了50万
For visitors to Bruce Peninsula National Park 布鲁斯半岛国家公园的游客
to get the full experience, 要想获得完整的体验
they need to go beyond dry land and be prepared to get wet. 他们需要走出干燥的土地做好淋湿的准备
This is the Grotto. 这是洞窟
This carbon here is very striking. 这个碳非常惊人
There aren't too many areas south of the Bruce Peninsula 布鲁斯半岛以南的地区并不常能
where you see these sea caves,the sinkholes, 看到这些海洞，天坑
some of the different features. 以及一些不同的特征
So, the landscape here is really quite dramatic. 所以，这里的风景真的很壮观
The Grotto is an example of a feature 洞窟是一个由波浪作用
that was formed by wave action. 形成特征的例子
Waves beating against the shoreline 波浪拍打着海岸线
was able to erode out and create the grotto. 侵蚀形成洞窟
You can see areas,that popcorny lookin' rock- 你可以看到一些区域，那些岩石看起来像相簿的地方
that's evidence of an old reef. 那是一个古老珊瑚礁的证据
So, that's rock that's 400 million years ago 这是四亿年前
during the Silurian period,there was reefs there. 志留纪的岩石，那里有珊瑚礁
For geologists, 对于地质学家来说
the Grotto is yet another marvelous puzzle piece, 洞窟是另一块神奇的拼图
used to uncover the vast geological history here. 用来揭开这里浩瀚的地质历史
For the ancient humans who lived off this land 对于在这片土地上生活了数千年的
for thousands of years, 远古人类来说
it provided shelter along the coast. 它提供了海岸上的避难所
Today, for hikers and divers alike, 如今，对徒步旅行者和潜水者来说
it's an experience of a lifetime. 这是一生难忘的经历
The Grotto it's cool. 洞窟里很凉快
It's a sea cave. 这是一个海洞
The shoreline has lots of sea caves. 岸线上有许多海洞
But the Grotto is different 但洞窟是不同的
because it also has the obvious entrance 因为它也有明显的入口
that people scramble down to and that's an experience. 人们爬下来这是一种体验
You feel rewarded when you get down 当你失意的时候你会觉得得到了回报
and, actually, more rewarded when you get back out. 实际上，当你回来的时候你会得到更多的回报
There's also an underwater entrance 还有一个水下入口
where light can come through 光线可以通过这里
and it creates a bit of a hue in there 在那里产生了一些色调
and it's because of the light from the outside. 这是因为光线来自外部
So, diver's know there's that entrance 潜水员知道有那个入口
and they come through there. 他们从那里通过
So, you have these two entrances 所以，这两个入口
and it's just in a remarkable location. 只是在一个不同寻常的位置
It's just a nice place to visit. 那就是个观光的好地方
For new visitors, 对于新游客来说
one of the most surprising aspects of this place 这个地方最令人惊讶的地方之一
is the water. 就是水
In this part of the world,this far north, 在这个遥远的北方地区
crystal clear turquoise water is not a common sight. 清澈的蓝绿色湖水并不常见
When you look at the water,it's remarkable. 当你看到水的时候你会觉得很神奇
You feel this could be Mediterranean and Caribbean, 你会觉得这里可能是地中海和加勒比海
it's just crystal clear or gin-clear water. 那里的水非常清澈
You can see down 20 meters,30 meters, 你可以看到下面20米，30米
40 meters actually to the bottom. 40米实际上就是底部
And in simple terms, water,H2O, is a blue chemical. 简单地说，水，H2O，是一种蓝色的化学物质（错误，水是无色的）
So, pure water is clear,blueish chemical. 纯净水是清澈的蓝色的化学物质
So, what you're looking at is water 你所看到的几乎是最纯净的水
almost in its purest form. 里面几乎没有其他东西
So, there is very little other stuff in it. 还有一些很少的其他物质在里面
So, there's very other little,let's say, silt, 很少的其他物质，比如说，泥沙
which is gonna change the color of it 会改变它的颜色
and change how far light can penetrate. 改变光能穿透的距离
Or life, like, algae,like phytoplankton. 或者生命，比如藻类，比如浮游植物
So, the more stuff that's in the water, 水里的物质越多
it's gonna effect it's colors, 越会影响到它的颜色
it's gonna effect how far light can penetrate. 会影响光穿透的距离
Under normal circumstances, 正常情况下
freshwater in this region wouldn't look this way. 这个地区的淡水不会是这个样子的
But there is a unique combination of factors 但这里有一个独特的因素组合
at play here. 在起作用
This water has been filtered. 这水已经过滤过了
Zebra and quagga mussels,which are an invasive species 斑马贻贝和扁尾贻贝是入侵物种
that have colonized the Great Lakes, 它们在五大湖定居下来
have drawn so much nutrients and energy to the lake bottom, 把大量的营养和能量吸到湖底
to themselves that the lake is less productive. 使湖底的产出下降
So, in the spring time, 所以，在春天的时候
this area would have had a large algal boom, diatom bloom 这个区域会有一次巨大的藻华，硅藻的大量繁殖
that would've affected the water clarity. 会影响水的清澈度
You wouldn't be able to see as much. 你就看不到这样的水了
But we're not getting those large algal blooms, 但是没有发生那些大的藻华
so our water clarity in spring time 所以我们的水在春天
is even more clear than it historically was. 比以前更加清澈
And that's a shift. 这是一个转变
It's a shift in the whole food web 这是整个食物链
and the whole dynamics of the lake. 和整个湖泊动态的转变
Not surprisingly, 毫不奇怪
these waters offer some of the best snorkeling 这些水域提供了一些北美最好的
and scuba diving in North America. 浮潜和水肺潜水机会
The water offers incredible visibility. 水提供了令人难以置信的能见度
The submerged rock formations in the lake 湖里的水下岩层
are just as beautiful as those on dry land. 和陆地上的一样漂亮
And there are shipwrecks. 还有沉船
There are hundreds of shipwrecks in the Great Lakes. 五大湖有数百艘沉船
Some as shallow as 10 to 20 feet below the surface. 有些甚至深至地表以下10至20英尺
The number of shipwrecks here might surprise some 这里沉船的数量可能会让一些人感到惊讶
but the Great Lakes waterway is a busy shipping route 但五大湖区航道是一条繁忙的航运路线
that runs all the way to the Atlantic Ocean 一直延伸到大西洋
and is subject to powerful storms. 并受到强大风暴的影响
The shipwrecks along this part of the escarpment 在悬崖的这部分
are among the best in the world for underwater explorers. 沉船是世界上最适合水下探险者的
Our visitors, even if they don't have any experience snorkeling 我们的游客，即使他们没有浮潜
or scuba diving, 或水肺潜水的经验
can relatively easily get out to these shipwrecks 也可以相对容易地进出这些沉船
and go for a swim 去游泳
and experience them and see them. 体验它们看到它们
But again, that clear water, 但再说一次，那清澈的水
you know, makes for an incredible diving experience. 你知道的，使潜水成为一种不可思议的体验
These shipwrecks are protected by Canada's National Parks 这些沉船受到加拿大国家公园
and by the gentle fresh water in which they rest. 和它们安息处的温和淡水的保护
Salt water is not so forgiving. 咸水就不那么宽容了
Sea worms in the ocean bore into 海洋里的海虫会侵入
and eventually destroy shipwrecks. 并最终摧毁沉船
But not here. 但不是在这里
The rarity of this level of preservation 这种罕见的保存水平对潜水者来说
is a big draw for divers. 是一种巨大的吸引力
Ships frozen in time 船只及时冻结
help make this one of the top freshwater diving locations 使它成为世界上最好的
in the world. 淡水潜水地点之一
For the advanced diver, 对于高级潜水员来说
a deeper look can bring you much farther back in time. 更深入的观察可以让你回到更远的过去
Between 5,000 and 10,000 years ago, 大约在5000到10000年前
before the glaciers fully melted; 冰川还没有完全融化
dry land, rivers and massive waterfalls 陆地、河流和巨大的瀑布
connected the Bruce Peninsula with Manitoulin Island 把布鲁斯半岛和北部约50英里的
some 50 miles north. 马尼托林岛连接起来
If we were to take away the water, 如果我们把水拿走
it looks like what a river 它看起来就像
or a fall system would look like today. 今天的河流或瀑布系统
It's quite-- still quite evident on the lake bottom. 在湖底还是很明显的
And that continues on down 90 meters deep. 继续往下90米深
And that's just to the surface of the sediment. 这只是沉积物的表面
Keep in mind, the bedrock is actually probably 记住，基岩实际上可能
another 100 meters below that. 比这还要低100米
Melted glacial water from Lake Huron 休伦湖融化的冰川水
drained into Georgian Bay 从一个巨大的史前瀑布
down a giant,prehistoric waterfall. 流进乔治亚湾
It's roar was so loud, 它的轰鸣声太大了
it's estimated that it could be heard almost 10 miles away. 估计在10英里外都能听到
But the glaciers continue to melt, 但是冰川继续融化
water levels at the base of the falls rose. 瀑布底部的水位上升
The Great Lakes as we know them,came to be. 正如我们所知五大湖形成了
And this ancient waterfall 这个古老的瀑布
large enough to rival even Niagara Falls 大到足以与尼亚加拉瀑布相匹敌
became completely submerged. 最终被完全淹没
For visitors to the Niagara Escarpment 对于喜欢呆在水线以上的
who prefer staying above the waterline, 尼亚加拉悬崖的游客来说
there are still waterfalls that have not been claimed 这里仍然有巨大冰川融化后
by the great glacial melt. 没有被认领的瀑布
This is Inglis Falls,a stunning waterfall. 这里是英格里斯瀑布，一个令人惊叹的瀑布
A gentle cascade. 一个温和的串联瀑布
A 60 foot brush stroke. 60英尺的笔刷
Left behind by time and erosion. 被时间和侵蚀留下
This is where the Sydenham River meets the Niagara Escarpment 这是锡德纳姆河与尼亚加拉悬崖的交汇处
along the Bruce Trail near Owen Sound, Ontario. 沿着布鲁斯小径靠近安大略省欧文湾
Here, water seeps through the dolomite cap rock 在这里，水渗入白云石盖层
and slowly erodes the softer rock underneath. 慢慢侵蚀下面较软的岩石
Through the ages, 长久以来
hunks of dolomite lose their support and tumble down. 大块大块的白云石失去了支撑而倾倒下来
Bit by bit. 一点一点地
It's a process called "Spring Sapping" 这是一个被称为“春季侵蚀”的过程
and Inglis Falls is the stunning result. 而英格利斯瀑布是令人震惊的结果
The falls are part of the region recognized 这些瀑布是被
by the United Nations Education, 联合国教科文组织
Scientific and Cultural Organization, 认定为世界生物圈保护区的
as a World Biosphere Reserve. 一部分
UNESCO's World Biosphere Reserve 联合国教科文组织的
concept or idea is about 40 years old now. 世界生物圈保护区概念或理念已经有40年的历史了
And it tries to promote and recognize 它试图推广和
the ideas of conservation. 认可环保的理念
There's lots of change happening on the landscape 地形发生了很多变化
and I can't help but think of the foresight 我不禁想到那些
of those individuals 预见到这条走廊
who envisioned the importance of this corridor. 重要性的人的远见卓识
I'm not sure if it weren't for those protective measures, 我不确定如果没有这些保护措施
whether we'd be standing here 我们是否还会站在这里
or somebody would be telling us to get off their property. 抑或会有人让我们离开他们的私人财产
But the fact is 但事实是
anyone can come and experience this firsthand, 任何人都可以亲身体验
can develop their own connection to this place 可以发展自己与这个地方的联系
and see the importance of it firsthand. 并亲眼看到它的重要性
People have a connection to this area 人们与这个地区有联系
because it's authentic. 因为它是真实的
It's a real place. 这是一个真实的地方
We haven't manufactured a theme park. 我们还没有建造一个主题公园
This is a real place,where you can get cold and wet 这是一个真实的地方，在这里你可以感到寒冷和潮湿
and stub your toe on rocks and you can swim 脚趾被石头碰伤，你可以游泳
and climb up cliffs,you can see trees, 可以爬上悬崖，你可以看到树
you can hear birds, it's real. 你可以听到鸟叫，这是真实的
The peninsula has always drawn people here. 半岛一直吸引着人们来到这里
And for the native people,this is where they hunted, 对土著来说这是他们打猎的地方
this is where they harvested for food and for medicine. 这是他们收获食物和药品的地方
They fished out in these waters. 他们在这些水域捕鱼
And they actually still do that to this very day. 直到今天他们仍然这样做
I think for all people, 我认为对所有人来说
it's the sheer beauty of this place, 这是这个地方最纯粹的美
helps them or draws them,brings them 帮助他们或吸引他们，把他们带到这里
and keeps them connected to the peninsula, 让他们与半岛保持联系
so that they keep coming back again and again and again. 这样他们就会一次又一次地回来
Taking a group of school children 带着一群学生
out to Indian Head Cove and the Grotto 去印第安酋长小湖湾和洞窟
and coming out to the shoreline and hearing them say, "Wow". 然后走到岸边听到他们说，“哇”
That's--yeah, that's what makes me... 是的，这就让我...
...feel good. …感觉很好
And I'd-- for me,it's always a blessed day 对我来说，这是一个美好的日子
when I can take a group of school children out 我可以带一群学生出去
and show them this place. 带他们参观这个地方
It's a moving experience. 这是一次感人的经历
It moves you. 它感动你
You feel something. 你能感觉到有些东西
I was speaking with a colleague 我和一位同事交谈
who took some visitors out in the escarpments 她带着一些游客去了蜗牛餐厅
and one of the women on their tour, 其中一名来自海外的
who was from overseas broke down and started crying. 女游客崩溃了，哭了起来
And he couldn't understand what was wrong 他不明白是怎么回事
and he went to her and he said,you know, "Is everything okay? 就去找她，问她：”没事吧？
What can I do?" 我能做什么？“
And she was so overwhelmed with the vastness of this space, 原来她被这片广阔的空间
the water and these--the vastness and the size 这片水域、这片广阔的悬崖的
and the scope of the escarpment that it moved her to tears. 面积、大小和范围深深吸引住了，感动得流下了眼泪
That's something. 这是某种东西
I mean, that's-- it's special. 我是说，这很特别
Here on the Niagara Escarpment, the stillness can be beautiful, 在尼亚加拉悬崖上，宁静是美丽的
spiritual... 是精神上的...
...and chilling, all at once. 突然一下又是令人恐惧的
Born at sea, 出生在海上
scored by ice, 被冰切割
ground down by time. 被时间碾碎
It is forever a work in progress, 它永远是一部正在进行中的作品
an unresolved geological masterpiece. 一部悬而未决的地质杰作
翻译 by 纪录片之家 zuicai