And we're back. 1
I hope you've been practicing your pattern making skills Pattern making is a complex skill it takes 2
time to master so practice and do your homework. 3
Today we'll talk about our Princess Style lines and princess seams. 4
There's a couple of different variations. 5
Here are two variations one you can clearly see the seam is going from the waistline into the shoulder 6
and the second one is going into the arm hole right. 7
Here's a clear indication where the seam goes right into the shoulder. 8
This is an old vintage illustration but it clearly shows you a princess style line right. 9
And this clearly shows that it goes into the arm hole and he is a more modern version of a princess 10
and into the arm again. 11
So let's get to work by now. 12
You know the routine. 13
Right. 14
You start with a piece of dated paper. 15
We're going to take out two darts sloper and trace your pattern all the way around ... make sure your notches are 16
clearly marked. 17
Make sure you apex is marked as well. 18
Next we're going to redraw the legs of the darts. 19
But this time we're going to draw them to the apex right to the apex. 20
Remember originally the vanishing point is not touching the apex but this time we're going to draw the 21
legs to the apex. 22
I'm going to put a notch right at the apex right across the Apex right here because in a minute we're 23
going to separate these two pieces and the notch will help us connect the two pieces back together 24
we have removed the darts. 25
We're going to do one minor adjustment around the apex on the side panel. 26
You see we have a very sharp corner at the apex on this side panel. 27
So using your French curve or the hip curve we're going to round this out and smooth this corner 28
so at this point we're pretty much done with the drafting part of it so that when you saw the scene 29
together like this this becomes our princess style line or Princess seam from the waistline into the 30
shoulder seam for this second variation we're going to put the style line into the arm hole instead 31
of the shoulder and we're going to use the one dart sloper. 32
And as always we're going to line up center front with one of these numbers on a paper and trace your 33
pattern all the way around. 34
Once again we're going to re-draw the legs of the dart to the apex 35
like this. 36
Next we're going to draw the style line from the apex into the arm hole. 37
There's no specific point somewhere in the middle of the arm always a good place to create this style line 38
line. 39
So we'll put a cross mark right here and with your French curve we're going to draw a line. 40
It's a curved line from the apex in through the arm hole like. 41
So next we're going to cut the pattern out cut the dart out and going to remove the dark just like we 42
did in the previous exercise remove the dart. 43
And also we're going to cut on the style line the Princess Style line that goes from the apex into the 44
arm hole and just like we did in the previous exercise we go into smooth and round out this corner which 45
at times can be a little too sharp. 46
So it's a little more smooth. 47
One final note on this side panel the Grain Line. 48
We haven't talked about grain lines but we will in the next class. 49
The grain line in a side panel the Grain Line is perpendicular to the waistline. 50
So the grain line would look something like this. 51
If you don't know what a grain line is. 52
Stay tuned because next class I will explain grain lines. 53
Once you add seam allowance this gets sewn together like this and this becomes your princess style line 54
into the armhole. 55
OK so there you have it. 56
I want you to look at pattern making from a creative standpoint so be creative have fun with it. 57
OK see you next class.