0
1
00:00:03,810 --> 00:00:05,330
And we're back.
1

2
00:00:05,340 --> 00:00:12,270
I hope you've been practicing your pattern making skills Pattern making is a complex skill it takes
2

3
00:00:12,270 --> 00:00:17,280
time to master so practice and do your homework.
3

4
00:00:17,280 --> 00:00:21,530
Today we'll talk about our Princess Style lines and princess seams.
4

5
00:00:21,540 --> 00:00:23,830
There's a couple of different variations.
5

6
00:00:23,850 --> 00:00:30,450
Here are two variations one you can clearly see the seam is going from the waistline into the shoulder
6

7
00:00:30,750 --> 00:00:34,700
and the second one is going into the arm hole right.
7

8
00:00:35,080 --> 00:00:40,470
Here's a clear indication where the seam goes right into the shoulder.
8

9
00:00:40,530 --> 00:00:47,140
This is an old vintage illustration but it clearly shows you a princess style line right.
9

10
00:00:47,220 --> 00:00:55,910
And this clearly shows that it goes into the arm hole and he is a more modern version of a princess
10

11
00:00:56,100 --> 00:00:57,590
and into the arm again.
11

12
00:00:58,110 --> 00:01:00,840
So let's get to work by now.
12

13
00:01:00,840 --> 00:01:01,760
You know the routine.
13

14
00:01:01,770 --> 00:01:02,460
Right.
14

15
00:01:02,550 --> 00:01:05,260
You start with a piece of dated paper.
15

16
00:01:05,340 --> 00:01:13,770
We're going to take out two darts sloper and trace your pattern all the way around ... make sure your notches are
16

17
00:01:13,770 --> 00:01:15,430
clearly marked.
17

18
00:01:15,450 --> 00:01:19,680
Make sure you apex is marked as well.
18

19
00:01:19,680 --> 00:01:23,810
Next we're going to redraw the legs of the darts.
19

20
00:01:24,000 --> 00:01:29,750
But this time we're going to draw them to the apex right to the apex.
20

21
00:01:29,760 --> 00:01:37,830
Remember originally the vanishing point is not touching the apex but this time we're going to draw the
21

22
00:01:37,830 --> 00:01:41,110
legs to the apex.
22

23
00:01:41,180 --> 00:01:47,390
I'm going to put a notch right at the apex right across the Apex right here because in a minute we're
23

24
00:01:47,390 --> 00:01:54,860
going to separate these two pieces and the notch will help us connect the two pieces back together
24

25
00:02:05,790 --> 00:02:08,700
we have removed the darts.
25

26
00:02:09,120 --> 00:02:16,820
We're going to do one minor adjustment around the apex on the side panel.
26

27
00:02:17,260 --> 00:02:23,090
You see we have a very sharp corner at the apex on this side panel.
27

28
00:02:23,110 --> 00:02:29,740
So using your French curve or the hip curve we're going to round this out and smooth this corner
28

29
00:02:46,720 --> 00:02:54,400
so at this point we're pretty much done with the drafting part of it so that when you saw the scene
29

30
00:02:54,430 --> 00:03:04,520
together like this this becomes our princess style line or Princess seam from the waistline into the
30

31
00:03:04,520 --> 00:03:13,580
shoulder seam for this second variation we're going to put the style line into the arm hole instead
31

32
00:03:13,580 --> 00:03:17,420
of the shoulder and we're going to use the one dart sloper.
32

33
00:03:17,840 --> 00:03:24,860
And as always we're going to line up center front with one of these numbers on a paper and trace your
33

34
00:03:24,860 --> 00:03:26,780
pattern all the way around.
34

35
00:03:26,780 --> 00:03:32,300
Once again we're going to re-draw the legs of the dart to the apex
35

36
00:03:35,590 --> 00:03:37,910
like this.
36

37
00:03:38,080 --> 00:03:44,780
Next we're going to draw the style line from the apex into the arm hole.
37

38
00:03:44,800 --> 00:03:52,860
There's no specific point somewhere in the middle of the arm always a good place to create this style line
38

39
00:03:52,860 --> 00:03:53,160
line.
39

40
00:03:53,170 --> 00:04:02,430
So we'll put a cross mark right here and with your French curve we're going to draw a line.
40

41
00:04:02,440 --> 00:04:09,730
It's a curved line from the apex in through the arm hole like.
41

42
00:04:09,850 --> 00:04:20,140
So next we're going to cut the pattern out cut the dart out and going to remove the dark just like we
42

43
00:04:20,140 --> 00:04:23,010
did in the previous exercise remove the dart.
43

44
00:04:23,740 --> 00:04:34,330
And also we're going to cut on the style line the Princess Style line that goes from the apex into the
44

45
00:04:34,330 --> 00:04:44,320
arm hole and just like we did in the previous exercise we go into smooth and round out this corner which
45

46
00:04:44,320 --> 00:04:46,360
at times can be a little too sharp.
46

47
00:04:46,990 --> 00:04:53,410
So it's a little more smooth.
47

48
00:04:53,440 --> 00:04:58,380
One final note on this side panel the Grain Line.
48

49
00:04:58,450 --> 00:05:02,050
We haven't talked about grain lines but we will in the next class.
49

50
00:05:02,050 --> 00:05:07,940
The grain line in a side panel the Grain Line is perpendicular to the waistline.
50

51
00:05:07,960 --> 00:05:11,380
So the grain line would look something like this.
51

52
00:05:11,380 --> 00:05:13,540
If you don't know what a grain line is.
52

53
00:05:13,540 --> 00:05:18,430
Stay tuned because next class I will explain grain lines.
53

54
00:05:18,520 --> 00:05:26,920
Once you add seam allowance this gets sewn together like this and this becomes your princess style line
54

55
00:05:27,070 --> 00:05:28,100
into the armhole.
55

56
00:05:28,750 --> 00:05:31,720
OK so there you have it.
56

57
00:05:32,620 --> 00:05:39,640
I want you to look at pattern making from a creative standpoint so be creative have fun with it.
57

58
00:05:39,910 --> 00:05:41,650
OK see you next class.

