hey friends welcome to flitetest I'm
Josh I'm John and this is really special
today we're gonna be showing you how to
build the first of our master series and
this is an F for your Corsair something
that we never dreamed would be even
possible it was designed by this amazing
individual here John
John what's some of the experiences that
people gonna have in building a master
series airplane on this particular
airplane you're gonna be doing a lot of
curves so you can see the wings here got
a nice smooth surface the fuselage again
is nice and rounded there's gonna be a
lot of stuff that you've already done
carry on the tail section but on the
main wings and fuselage you're gonna see
some new stuff that's awesome now John
not only designed a whole different way
of working with foam but those
techniques are gonna carry from plane to
plane so don't be intimidated by this
follow along just like it's your first
build first time working with foam and
don't think just because you're new
pilot that this is an advanced flyer be
still fly just as easy as planes before
and as always we're gonna be giving you
free plans or you can choose to support
us by going to our store getting speed
boat kits in the nude electronics now
this plane is a swappable and it will
fly of a power pack see we're coming out
with our new radial motor line and if
you choose that radio line you're gonna
have three cell and four self
capabilities which is going to give us a
wide envelope of speed and performance
let's get our materials in order and
we'll get started the first thing we're
going to do are the wings I've popped
everything out and I've got everything
laid out and it's best to go ahead and
inventory everything before you get
started so what I've got here cuz I've
got the upper wing skin part two of the
upper wing skin the lower wing skin
you're gonna have two spars made out of
foam and then two spars made out of wood
and then over here everything is
mirrored you're also going to have a
wing tip on either side these are the
spacers you'll have two four too large
on each side too small on each side
these are the servo doublers make sure
you've got everything before you get
started where I like to start is on the
top of the wing so I want to move
everything off to the side and you can
start by peeling
this way at all so what we're going to
do is we're going to add an airfoil
shape and the way that's done is I'd
bring it to the edge of the table and I
have a firm pressure with my right hand
I'm dragging it down with my left and
it's happening is I'm crushing the other
side of this foam and you can already
see that I've got a very slight airfoil
just dragging it down and I've only
begun crushing the foam from here to
here so each time I drag it down I move
my hand if it's just a little bit until
I get all the way to the end of the way
now it's got a nine
say getting the right pressure is
critical in order to figure out exactly
how much pressure you need to apply when
making an airfoil you can take a piece
of scrap that you've worn one side off
and you put it on the edge of a table
and you put just a light to medium hand
pressure and you're you know you've got
the right pressure when you've got a
small indention if you're not using
enough pressure you're still going to be
able to form that airfoil it's just
going to take a little bit longer if
you're pressing too hard instead of
having a nice smooth airfoil it's you're
just gonna have a bunch of flats form it
just won't be quite as smooth it'll
still fly fine it just won't look quite
as good all right so the next step is
start putting these spars together
there's a long one and there's a short
one the long one is the front the short
one goes in the back there's also a foam
spar the front foam spar has two tabs
where I must start out by doing getting
these foam spars glued to the wooden
ones starting with the front one
everything will line up very nicely I'm
using quite a bit of glue do the same in
the back
I'm going to go ahead and form up the
other side and everything again will
line up very very neatly and do the same
on the front one these are the spacers
what I'm gonna start out by doing is
just gluing these two together use quite
a bit of glue kind of move it around so
I've got the one spacer formed and I'm
going to now mirror the other side
let me do the little ones
[Applause]
and then I'm going to mirror that
now I'm going to add the spacers there's
a little knockout here and here right at
the low spot of the wing what I'm going
to do is I'm going to glue one here and
one here we're going to start with our
longer spar and we're going to glue our
spacers to it you'll notice that the
doublers are facing the center we're
also going to do that on the outer ones
be sure and allow about 45 seconds for
the glue to cool before going on to the
next step I've got the tab on the
outside and the doubler is towards the
center and one other thing to note is
the rounded area goes up the same as
this rounded area and same on this outer
one I'm gonna glue this outer space
you're on with the doubler pointing to
the center so you can see here we've got
the tab on the outside and the doubler
is towards the center again the top will
be slightly rounded the bottom will be
perfectly flat give that a few seconds
to cool I'm gonna flip it around and
we'll do the same over here
[Music]
tab to the outside doubler to the inside
give this 45 seconds to cool down before
moving on to the next step alright now
we're going to add this Beck's part I'm
going to do is I'm going to go ahead and
just fill these two cavities with hot
glue and just push this together and
once that glue cools down we'll come
back and add a little bit more glue here
at the corners for strength now you'll
notice that there's a gap on either end
this one's pretty small this one's
pretty big that's okay now that the glue
is cooled I'm going to go and add a
little bit more here at the corners and
do that on each side
[Music]
[Applause]
now you can go and wipe off the excess
using a scrap piece of foam now we're
going to close everything up here on the
ends and I'm just going to add a little
bit of glue and I'm going to bend this
back spar to meet up with this spacer
you're going to notice that this remains
straight and you're going to be getting
a little bit of a curve and that's what
we want alright so we're going to do the
same thing on the other side I'm just
going to put a little bit of glue on
this spacer and I'm going to bend this
rear spar to meet it again we're gonna
have a slight curve right here you'll
definitely want to watch your fingers
right here there's a little bit of glue
squirt now don't get burned like for
allow about 45 seconds for the glue to
cool down and then you can come back and
add a little bit more at the corners for
some added strength got my scrap piece
of foam we're gonna wipe away the excess
want to flip this around
and go ahead and reinforce the corners
with hot glue on this side as well move
the excess we're on to the next step now
we've got the spar assembly complete
we're going to go ahead and add the
upper wing skin I've already added a
little bit of an airfoil to this side so
what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take a
barbecue skewer and I'm gonna pop these
little rectangles out these rectangles
will line up to these little tabs at the
front of the wing spar assembly I'm
gonna go ahead I'm gonna add and it's
actually more than what we're gonna need
and I'll get to why I'm doing that here
shortly it's gonna be your aileron this
I'm gonna go ahead and add some glue I
want this solid so I'm going to add a
little line of glue there and let that
cool for 45 seconds or so now we're
working on the second section of the
upper wing skin and what I'm going to
start out by doing is flipping it where
there's a score line facing upward we're
going to remove the larger section of
paper what I'm gonna do so I'm going to
run my exacto knife right down this
score not cutting all the way through
I'm going to break this and I'm gonna
put a little bit of glue in here
[Applause]
if you have glue that squirts out take a
piece of scrap and just remove the
excess now we're going to do is we're
going to form an airfoil we're going to
do it exactly the same way we did on
this first section I'm drawing backwards
with my left hand applying slight
pressure with my right hand okay I'm
moving my hand left and right very
slowly and now we have a nice airfoil
shape and again the actual shape isn't
too critical the goal is to simply get
the foam on the bottom side good and
crushed glued this minute go that's had
plenty of time to dry and now what we're
gonna do is we're gonna add this top
skin to the spar sembly so I'm going to
start out filling these with glue and
I'm gonna run a real heavy bead all the
way down starting with this large spacer
I'm completely covering the top of each
spar as well as this small spacer here
on the end and I'm using a lot of glue
that gives me plenty of time to get
everything in position the first thing
I'm gonna do is I'm going to line up
these tabs those little cavities now and
then do is I'm going to apply pressure
evenly across the entire wing I'm
holding the leading edge down and
keeping real even pressure or the glue
on top of the spars this meeting the
wing itself you'll want to hold this
probably a minute minute and a half I
want to make sure that nothing shifts
and so I want to make sure I don't want
to take any chance of having that glue
still allow a little bit of play between
parts now we're going to add the second
section what I'm wanting to do is to
shingle this top layer of paper over
this layer right here so we're going to
kind of come in high and then push down
and that fit isn't too bad you might
have to bend this a little bit more you
might have to straighten it up just a
little bit after I test-fit it I'm gonna
go back and I'm gonna add glue now I'm
gonna put most of my glue along this
bottom edge I'm gonna be adding glue to
the bottom edge on many many steps and
the reason that I do that is whenever I
shove parts together that glue is going
to want to score it out I always want to
squirt towards the inside I want to try
to keep all excess glue off the surface
I'm going to come in pretty high and
push down get a little bit of glue
squirting out and that's alright we try
to minimize it as much as we can
I'm pressing the two parts together if I
see a little gap I'm reaching in from
the bottom and pressing up and in the
front here I'm pressing down you'll just
have to make a little minor adjustments
as that glue cools off
give this a full minute to dry now you
may notice that things are not stuck
really really well at this point and
that's okay I'm stuck here but I've got
a pretty good gap back here that's okay
we're going to come back in just a
minute flip this upside down and add
glue from the bottom the first
application of glue just kind of gets
things lined up a little bit and so I'm
pretty happy with that I'm going to come
back and I'm gonna add a bead of glue
right here at this scene after applying
glue to the underside I'm going to flip
it back over and apply pressure between
the two halves I'm really watching that
scene to make sure it's good and clean I
may have to bend one side up or push one
side down definitely give it a full
minute to cool off now I'm gonna do the
same thing on the other side I'm going
to add a pretty healthy bead of glue
right along that line to fill that gap
and likely did appear on leading edge
we're going to do the same on the
trailing edge I'm going to push the two
together and that's looking really good
now normally whenever we begin forming
something over the edge of a table we're
just moving foam in one direction on
this wingtip we're going to be creating
a airfoil shape this way but we're also
creating a taper this way so foam
doesn't normally like to do that do this
so we're gonna spend a little bit of
extra time crushing it in multiple
directions so into it the same ways
before you're not going to look at the
palm of your hand on there but you can
put a couple fingers across and just
draw it down again I am I'm pulling with
my left hand I'm applying pressure with
my right hand I'll flip it around and
you can see so far I'm just going in one
one direction now what I'm going to do
is I'm gonna kind of roll it this way
just a little bit
and then I'm going to kind of turn a
diagonal
it just makes foam form up a little bit
easier
okay now what I'm going to do is I'm
going to match this up I'm going to
match us up beginning at the leading
edge and you can see that I've got a
nice clean seam up to about where my
finger is so for here all the way the
leading edge we've got a good snug fit
now I'm going to do is I'm going to
apply glue again I'm going to be
applying glue towards the bottom of this
piece because I want that glue whenever
I press these two pieces together
I want that glue to squirt down not up
and now I'm going to do is I'm going to
shingle as I put this together
I'm going to shingle this piece of paper
over this piece of paper if you happen
to shingle this piece of paper over this
piece of paper that's okay just whatever
you do on this side also continue on
this side now you're going to notice
we've got a good tight fit here but
we've got a great big gap right here and
that's okay definitely give this a good
minute to dry you saw that I apply two
really healthy B to glue on that edge
all right now we're ready to close this
gap up make sure you do not apply glue
on this straight edge right here because
your aileron needs to be able to work
freely what I'd like to do to keep the
build nice and clean because I'm going
to flip this upside down and I've got
this piece of foam is closer to me even
this piece of foam so what I'm going to
do is I'm going to apply glue to this
piece because when I scissor this down
it's going to push that glue this way
that that's going to keep your build a
little bit cleaner
flip it over and I'm just gonna put a
little pressure on there close that gap
again I'm jingling this piece of paper
over this piece of paper you're gonna
notice a little bit of puckering right
here dad is just gonna happen sometimes
you can minimize it by working that foam
over the edge of a table a little bit
more but sometimes it's just going to be
created no matter how much you form I'm
going to add a bevel to this aileron and
what I like to do is using a straight
edge I have about 3/16 of an inch
between the edge of the ruler and the
edge of the the aileron and you can do
this with an exacto knife you can also
do this with large utility razor but
what I'm going to do is keeping my
fingers back keeping my fingers spread
out wide I'm going to angle my knife
back and what I want to do is I want a
nice clean movement side-to-side I don't
want to move the knife this way I don't
want to move the knife this way I just
need a nice clean movement from side to
side push through I'm going to draw it
side to side and one other thing that I
want to point out and I didn't do right
here is I usually twist by knife
slightly clockwise and that prevents
that from happening
make sure that you don't cut the paper
hinge when you're cutting this bevel
this takes a little bit of practice
there's plenty of scrap foam supplied
with the kit so if you're not
comfortable cutting a bevel just go
practice on scrap cut you find all five
or six pieces try this by the time you
do a dozen you'll be an expert if you
accidentally cut through that paper you
can always flip it over add a piece of
tape and it'll be just fun with the
aileron open you're going to add a line
a glue from one end to the other and
then you're going to use a piece of
scrap to immediately wipe it away allow
about a minute for that glue to cool
leaving the aileron fully open now we're
going to do the same thing on the other
side again we're just going to feel this
large circular table and before I form
I'm gonna go ahead and add B to glue
right here and let that cool for a few
minutes or so just like on the other
side we've got the score up and we're
going to tear this large section off you
can use your exacto knife and run down
that score and we're going to apply a
small amount of glue inside that crack
if you've got excess you can just wipe
it away using some scrap now that that's
had time to cool we're going to go ahead
and pull them up this first wing skin
using the same process as before drawing
down with my left hand applying pressure
with my right hand and again I'm just
moving my hands left to right right to
left why you can crush this we've got a
nice even airfoil that looks nice and
we're going to do the same thing on this
second section I am going to eyeball
that quickly they line up pretty good
I'm going to use my barbecue skewer to
remove these two clamp these two
cavities now we're gonna apply this
second wing skin and just like before
we're gonna clean out these cavities and
we're gonna go along the tops of these
spars
there's a very heavy be too glue
as I mentioned earlier we definitely
want a very heavy bead of glue this
gives us lots and lots and lots of time
to move everything around I'm also going
to put a little bit of glue in these
cavities was a little bit tricky lining
this stuff up again just a gentle
pressure definitely definitely want the
leading edge of the wings to be lying
flat on the table you don't want to
press too hard because you want to be
able to keep that nice gentle curve if
you press too hard you might get some
hard lines here and here or the smaller
Center
now we're going to add this second piece
and when I test fit it you can see that
it's arched up just a little bit too
much so I'm gonna kind of flatten things
out just a bit and with a little bit of
pressure I've got a nice clean joint
alright I've got my test fit yeah I'm
going to pull this off and I'm going to
add beauty glue to this lower edge using
a pretty healthy bead oops a slipped
little excess glue there I'm gonna pipe
that away and again I'm gonna shingle
this top layer of paper over this edge
I need to slide it backwards just in a
bit and heavy be the glue allows me a
lot of time to get this exactly in
position I've got this finger right here
pushing down because this one this this
wants to pop up and with my left finger
here I'm pushing this down I want that
loose and what that seemed to be nice
and clean you'll definitely want to
allow a full minute for the glue to cool
here all right now that we've got that
glued you're going to come back and
we're gonna glue up these seams from the
bottom again pretty healthy bead of glue
you know I really taper the glue off as
I get right up here to the leading edge
I don't want to have a bunch of excess
glue squirting out get this back over
pressing the two halves together if I
need to make any more little minor
adjustments to make that seam look good
I do it now and do that by adding a
little bit of pressure on the right side
or a little bit of pressure on the left
side as needed if you mess up this seam
one thing that I've done is I've taken a
piece of scrap paper that I've torn off
the bottom and I've cut a long skinny
strip and I've simply stretched it
across here and just put a light layer
of hot glue stretch that across and just
keep pressure on the right and on the
left and once that cools even if you had
glue scored out and it's really ugly
that completely cleans it up
I'm gonna add glue to the trailing edge
seen here a little bit of excess glue
squirt now wipe that away and I'm just
gonna push these two together apply a
little bit of pressure right here
because this is up just a little bit too
high this scene can be taped but I would
recommend just holding with your hands
if you hold it with your hands you're
able to see this scene the whole time if
you glue things up squeeze it together
and put a piece of tape across there
there might be a gap there that will be
hidden by the tape now we're gonna do
the other wing tip and we're going to
line it up we're going to tear off the
bottom layer start working that or the
edge of the table first one wing and
then work it diagonally
or long ways and just keep working it
eyeball where to apply glue so it's it's
nice and tight right here to about here
so I'm going to apply glue again
favoring the bottom side but come up
from the bottom so I can shovel this
piece of paper over this piece
[Applause]
and then we're gonna hold it for a
minute now we'll close up the rest of
this wingtip again you'll notice that
this piece of foam is higher in this
piece of foam I'm always going to apply
glue to the piece of foam closest to me
and we're going to go right along the
edge and when I scissor that close
that's going to shove all that glue to
the inside
finally we need to put a bevel on our
other aileron and do this just like
before so I'm going to plunge my exacto
knife through being careful not to cut
the paper hinge I'm drawing it to the
side with slight lockwise pressure that
gives us a nice clean bevel and that
looks good so now I'm going to apply a
pretty healthy bead of glue right along
that seam and then using a piece of
scrap I'm going to quickly wipe that
away I'm gonna leave my ego run fully
open and allow that to cool for 3045
seconds this is our bottom wing skin and
this is where the servo goes I'm going
to remove this little rectangle now
rather than throwing it away I'm going
to put it off to the side we're going to
use this in a later step now we're going
to do the lower wing skin and we need to
add a doubler there's going to be an
outline and you're just going to line
this doubler up to that outline
and now what we're going to do is we're
going to remove paper and we only need
to remove paper to about here if you get
it this far or you get it this far it's
okay now what we're gonna do is we're
gonna lay the top of the wing over the
bottom of the wing and all you need to
do is you need to make sure that that
paper is torn just past this scene now
the way I'm lining stuff up side to side
is this aileron needs to be able to be
free to go up and down so if the lower
skin is too far this way it'll hit focus
too far this way it will hit so we want
that right in the center now what I'm
going to do is I'm going to take a
barbecue skewer and I want to put a
little indention all right here and I'm
also going to do one at the trailing
edge of the wing where that seam is so
you can see where I've made a mark with
that barbecue skewer right there with
that seam is we're gonna set the upper
wing assembly off to the side just for a
second and I've got these two points
agreed with a barbecue skewer I'm going
to lay this over the edge of a table and
I'm actually gonna apply a little bit
more pressure than what I'd done
whenever we form the airfoils all right
and now what I'm gonna do is I'm just
going to kind of rock this back and
forth
and I'm only working an area about this
wide if the curvature isn't as clean and
neat as some of these others it's okay
this is a little bit difficult to do
down lay this like that and I'm going to
lay this here on top that looks pretty
good it doesn't have to be all the way
up we'll add a little bit of glue later
and that'll that'll keep that closed so
now what we need to do is we're going to
glue the lower wing skin to this upper
assembly now here's what I'm watching
with aligning the upper and lower wing
skins I want these two edges to come
together exactly and so that'll give me
my alignment forward and backwards what
I'm going to do is I'm going keep this
pinched and I'm going to move my ale
along so even though my position is good
front to back side to side I need to
slide this down just a little bit and
now that aileron is free now that we
know how the alignment works we're going
to add a very healthy bead of glue along
this spar
I'm also going to do it along this large
spacer put a lot of glue on there good
thing I'm going to do is I'm going to
add a real healthy bead of glue on the
leading edge of this lower wing skin I'm
only going to apply glue up to where
we've got this bin gonna flip this
upside down I'm first going to align
that leading edge we're just going to
give this position forward and backwards
I'm gonna flip it over really quickly
looks like I need to move it to the side
just a little bit okay
I'm gonna flip it back and everything
looks aligned so now it's just a matter
of just having good even pressure it's
no problem to do this by yourself
definitely want to give this a minute
and a half to dry now that everything's
glued together we're going to turn our
attention to the wing tip so there's
just a little gap right there and what
I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna squirt a
little bit of glue in there and check
together and I'm gonna put tape on this
I've got about four inches of tape I
want to make sure that tape stays good
and stuck every once in a while I'll
work on something I'll come back and one
of the edges of the pieces of tape has
popped loose you're gonna notice this
lower edge is a little bit longer than
the top that's okay we'll come back and
trim that sometimes wings aren't
perfectly aligned so we just left this a
little bit long while that's cooling we
can flip this upside down and we're
going to squirt a little bit of glue
right in here
and just hold down for about 45 seconds
to a minute now we're gonna finish
gluing up the leading edge I'm gonna go
in here and put a real healthy bead of
glue right along that top edge and I'm
gonna fold this up now there's gonna be
a gap that's gonna be closed up with a
piece of tape and pull it tight here now
that we've got this leading edge all the
way glued you need to get some glue
between the spar and the lower wing skin
there is going to be a very large gap
and the reason that I had the leading
edge done first is because if we would
have glued the spars to the lower wing
skin we might have had alignment issues
right here so what I'm gonna do is I'm
gonna hold my wings vertical and I'm
just gonna drip glue down along the
sides of the spar I'm actually do both
spars and we're seeing a little bit of
glue underneath between the spoiler and
the lower skin then we're going to
gently push that closed give this a full
minute and a half because you're
probably quite a bit of glue down there
the more glue you use the longer it
takes to cool and the last step on the
wing is we're going to close up this
last section
one little blue inside there and hold it
close if you got the piece of tape and
II buy a piece of tape and we're ready
for the next side all right go ahead and
do the opposite side again we're going
to start with a doubler match a double
our up with the outline and we're gonna
tear off again about this much paper
[Music]
like we did on the other side I'm going
to line this lower wing skin first thing
I'm gonna do is line up this leading
edge and I'm going to look at where my
aileron goes up and down looks like I've
got good clearance on either side I'm
gonna mark with the barbecue skewer
right where that seam is
line those two marks up you made this
barbecue skewer and just bend it over
the edge of a table like before we're
just working in an area about this wide
[Music]
check alignment real quick this time
I've got the bottom side up
make it a slight adjustment left or
right because we use so much glue we
still have time to move stuff around
that looks good right there definitely
allow at least a minute and a half of
the glue cools if you're afraid this
leading edge isn't gonna close up the
way you like you can put a ruler along
the edge and that'll give you good even
pressure and make a really good scene
[Music]
all right I'm gonna go ahead add some
glue between the lower skin and the
spars do that on both the front and the
back hold that closed and lastly we're
just going to close up the trailing edge
of the wing and apply tape before
installing your servos be sure and
Center them there's a link below that
will give you instructions on how to do
that if you're not sure how we're going
to go ahead and install servos it's
gonna be a little bit tricky to run
these wires instead of running the servo
wire right between the spars we've got a
spacer right here and so what we're
going to have to do is we're going to
have to run the wire on the backside of
the spar so in order to get that wire
fish through what we're going to do is
take a screwdriver or just a pointy tool
of some sort and you're gonna punch
through the spa you're gonna create a
little opening side-to-side and I've
taken a push rod and we've bent it to
create a little hook we're going to fish
that through the hole we just made we're
going to fold that servo wire over
hook that twist and we're going to pull
that through all right watch us through
pull the connector through good and go
ahead and add a little drop of glue on
either side set that so really go ahead
and make connection here and this is
wide open we're going to feed this wire
through and here it comes and then we'll
do the same on the other side we're just
going to go in through the back
create a slot hook through make a loop
with the servo wire flat
make sure that your servos are pointed
the same way drop in the backdrop blue
in the front set those in add the
connector we're just going to snake it
through like we did on the first side
[Applause]
I'm going to add a Y and by now all of
our glue is had time to cool you're
going to notice when I pull the tape off
I'm going to killing it halfway off and
the reason I do that is I don't want to
keep this piece of tape and tear it up
and pull the paper with it so I'm only
going to go to the scene do the same
thing on the top always pull your tape
from the back towards the same
[Music]
be sure and give your wings a final
inspection make sure that everything is
closed up looks like I missed one here
the squirt of glue in there and like I
did on the other side I'm going put a
pretty long piece of tape across there I
use a longer piece of tape if I don't
instantly want one of these two
possibilities then I'll have two big
gaps now that we've got the wires
installed we're going to take those two
little rectangles that I told you to
save and we're going to glue them right
here and that's just going to kind of
stiffen things up in there
[Applause]
you're gonna put this piece just off to
the side of that little cutout placement
isn't completely critical but you
definitely don't want to block that
little notch it could be a little
further this way and it won't get hurt
if it's not quite square nothing's hurt
so now we're going to add this spacer to
the other side as well glue on both
sides again we're gonna put that just
off to the side of that notch and just
squeeze and hold let it cool for about
45 seconds but the next part of the
video josh is gonna walk you through
installing push rods so John has done an
awesome job at this wing we're gonna go
ahead and show you how to put the push
rods in and the first thing we're going
to do if you haven't already we're gonna
Center up our servos and we're going to
install our servo arms perpendicular to
the hinge line on our aileron once you
have that in go ahead and take your
screw and put it in don't neglect the
step because your flight characteristics
are only as good as your controls for
our servos the shortest servo screw is
going to be the one that's going to lock
down the arm so our next step we're
gonna go and take our z bin and we're
going to pass it through the furthest
hole on a control horn and notice that
we haven't glued our control horns yet
so we can always remove these I'm gonna
go and take my thumb and I'm gonna mark
just on the closest side of the hole as
you see right here
when I grip this with my pliers I'm
going to bend this straight up towards
me do a quick check to make sure
everything lines up nice and it does
next step I'm going to go ahead and grab
my pliers we'll go about two millimeters
in I'm gonna bend this out towards the
wingtips
this is gonna create what we call a
modified Z Bend once we're happy with it
we can cut it now don't worry if you
have any difficulties or maybe you made
it too long or too short you have plenty
of extra push rod material go ahead and
make another one so notice we have
included in our control horn we're gonna
grab this pop this out in its entirety
next we're gonna past our push rod
through the bottom of the servo arm if
these the pliers and just kind of rotate
this up and then now we can go ahead and
push our control horn right back in and
we're just going to confirm that nothing
is moved our servo arm is parallel to
our hinge line and I control horn with
the holes over the hinge line is nice
and neutral once you're happy with that
you can go ahead and take a bead of glue
put it right down in and press it in
place make sure you give this plenty of
time to dry so you have a nice strong
controlling we're gonna repeat the exact
same process now on the other side
now the wing is done and it's time to
move on to the fuselage the fuselage
skin consists of one two three four five
six seven pieces make sure you have all
those located the former's there's gonna
eat one is going to be doubled up and
you're going to have one two three four
five six of those now I want to show you
something on the former's the first two
are exactly the same size the second two
same size third same size when we get to
the fourth you're going to notice that
one is larger and what is smaller this
one they're going to be the same size
and then this last one one is going to
be smaller than the other we also have
canopy sections this is going to be one
section here's another and then the last
section of the canopy is actually built
into the fuselage skin we're doing the
fuselage make sure that you have got
lots and lots of tape as this thing
comes together it's going to be
completely covered in blue tape I'm just
using just a blue masking tape that
sticks good but I don't have to worry
about delaminating whenever I peel it
off use ordinary painters tape it works
great for this first piece we're going
to be doing is this little skinny one it
doesn't matter which side you pull off
and the way I do it is I just run it
over the edge of the table much like I
do the larger components it's a little
harder because you're not using the palm
of your hand you're just kind of using
your fingertips it won't be quite as
uniform as the larger components but
that's okay as long as the inside of
that foam gets crushed it'll curve
really nicely I'm going to apply a small
amount of glue and I'm going to shingle
one side under together and it doesn't
matter
allow about 45 seconds for the glue to
cool and we can move on to the next one
now we're move on to the next section it
doesn't matter which side you pull off
and we do the same thing as we did on
the other we're just going to draw it
over the edge of table you can kind of
see we've got a little bit of bandits
now that comes together really nicely
I'm going to apply a small amount of
glue and I'm gonna shingle one side
under the other and it doesn't matter
which allow about 45 seconds for the
glue to cool and we can move on to the
next one moving on to the next part this
one's a little wider I've got a little
bit more to work with
so let's Paulo my hand on this start
drawing it down we're doing this the
exact same way we did the wings we're
just trying to get a little more
curvature out of it now I'm using the
same amount of pressure just may require
may be necessary to go over this a few
more times than you do the wing on some
of these larger components in these tips
together where they come together and
they meet up flush I don't like it to
come together like this
I like these edges to come together just
like that I'm going to apply a little
bit of glue more towards the inside
alright the next section I'm gonna have
the score side up there's a score here
we want that facing up we're gonna
remove
this large section once you remove the
paper to look like this and then we're
going to do the same thing as the others
[Music]
it feels pretty good still feels just a
little bit stiff right here so I'm going
to work just the edge if you have one of
these pop loose it's okay we'll get a
reattach to your shortly that comes
together nicely the two edges are good
and flush as these pieces get bigger
we're gonna tape them to get harder and
harder to hold heavy bead of glue
favoring the inside a dab just a little
bit and shingle one underneath the other
and put my thumb right there there's no
glue squirting out so I'm not worried
about getting burned
and I'm gonna run a piece of tape across
that and I'm just kind of rounding
things out you'll have some little flat
spots along the way and there we go the
final shape isn't critical the former's
will really help get that final shape as
we finish up the fuselage okay on the
next section first thing we're going to
do is we're going to glue this up it's a
pretty healthy bead of glue and I'll
just put a roll the tape there kind of
weight that down I'm going to do the
same thing on this next section well
these two are cooling we're going to
move on to this one this is the most
challenging piece of the entire build
I've got it where this is pointing to
the left you're going to notice two sets
of lines near the center you're going to
notice two sets of lines that are offset
this is the side we want to peel so make
sure that your part is in this position
before you peel the paper away
[Music]
now for starters I'm going to create a
little bit of a bend right down the
center I'm only working an area about an
inch and a half wide and the reason I'm
doing this is if you look at the shape
of this Foreman right now we're forming
this area which has a lot of curvature
these sides are relatively flat and then
about right here and about right here is
where this wraps around so we're going
to spend quite a bit of time forming an
area here forming an area here in
forming an area here now the edge of
this table is fairly round and so it's
gonna get us part of the way to
accomplishing a curve that we're wanting
to get it's not going to get us all the
way so for starters we're just gonna get
things bit just a little bit and then
I'm going to go down to here
and watch this flip it around do the
same no those this is still really
really stiff and to get these edges
together it's gonna be very very
difficult so a line is a trick not too
long ago that really helps with these
really really tight bends it's just an
ordinary cutting mat they put right up
on the edge of a table instead of it
being rounded this is fairly sharp
by comparison I'll take that I'll stop
working those same areas again and that
really crushes the phone once that foam
is crushed it's a lot easier to form
into the shape we're trying to get if
you don't have a cutting mat handy all
you need is a good 90-degree edge
sometimes counter tops have that if you
don't have anything else a long ruler
taped on either end will work it's not
ideal but it'll still give you a
90-degree edge to form over as I work
the material towards what will be the
seam I'm kind of bending it
flip it over and do the same thing and
I'd say it's about 3/8 of an inch or so
I'm just taking it just standing it so
we've got quite a bit of shape in there
but it still doesn't want to go together
real well so what we're gonna do at this
point and I'm gonna tear off some pieces
of tape about eight to 10 inches and
I'll need two or three of them I'm gonna
roll this like a newspaper and I'm gonna
put a piece of tape around it now it
doesn't matter which way you roll it
because we're gonna unroll it here in a
little bit and then turn around and roll
it the opposite way what we're doing is
kind of training this foam to do what we
want
so foam stays like this for 20 or 30
minutes when we come back and we remove
the tape it's still going to want to
spring open a little bit but then we're
gonna roll it up like a newspaper the
opposite way now we're going to move
back to these two sections they've had
plenty of time to dry and you're gonna
see a line right down the center you
want that line up you see this side
there's a little bit of a crease but no
real line with a line facing up we're
gonna peel the paper off the entire
surface with the paper peeled off we're
going to go ahead and form this up this
section folds over just like this so
really we're we're done from here to
here that just leaves this little strip
this little strip is going to end up
closing together in right now I can feel
that that just doesn't want to close so
that just tells me I need to do a little
bit more for me
[Music]
those now two go together with very
little effort that's what we need have a
piece of tape ready heavy layer glue
towards the center dab dab shingle and
we're going to hold it this will need to
cool about 45 seconds long once again
there is a small score line right there
we want that facing up we're going to
tear these suckers off anyone do the
same thing as the other parts
I am spending most of my time forming in
the center section and down here in this
section because again besides for the
most part our little straighter then the
top and in these bottom edges and those
hedges are coming together without too
much issue go tear off some tape then
you see I'm tearing off quite a bit of
tape and the reason I do that is if you
get a short section of tape and one side
pops loose you might have a great big
gap you can always fix that gap just
won't look as good
[Applause]
same method as before one side is always
higher than the other I dab them start
seeing those strings form and a shingle
one side underneath and make sure you
this package is even with one another I
put the tape anywhere I see a nice clean
seam to look really good right there so
I started there all right
that looks good now I'm going to move
back to the last section and I'm gonna
pull the tape off that you can see how
this side looks like it's going right
where it needs this side is still a
little bit high so this time when we
roll it up we're going to start with
this edge
slowly this off to the side for a little
bit and we'll start putting all these
formers together I'm starting at the
back of the plane and with these two
you're gonna see that one is slightly
smaller than the other when you glue
these together you'll definitely want
this window lined up and these holes
lined up avoid putting glue around the
holes these need to be completely clear
so that the straw can pass through it
for the control rods if you do end up
getting glue in there it's not the end
of the world we can take a barbecue
skewer punch it through and you'll be
just fine
moving towards the nose of the aircraft
the next two are going to be exactly the
same size again keep glue back from the
holes and make sure those holes line up
and the windows line up so move forward
the next two I like the very first one
we did one of them is smaller than the
other there are no holes you just have a
window
make sure those windows are exactly
lined up the next two they're exactly
the same size and don't do what I did
and a wipe away the glue so it doesn't
get in that hole
even though I just smeared it right in
the bottom of this is formed up by this
piece I'm going to open this tear out
the center let some glue in that channel
watch your fingers on this step smear
some glue on one side or the other and
squeeze everything together watch your
fingers on this step because it's a
small part and that glue can squirt out
and burn you last two are the same size
they go together just like all the
others
now that all the former's are glued
together we're going to go back and
we're gonna peel all the tape off this
one and one thing to be careful of when
you're removing tape you don't want to
delaminate it so I'm gonna pull it this
way all right now look at that part
that's no tension on my hand at all a
very very light tension that comes
together and does exactly what we wanted
to do so I'm gonna inspect my edges and
like the way that looks I don't think I
need to roll it up again I want to go
ahead and tear off a few pieces of tape
heavy beat of glue I usually use a
little bit heavier bead than what I do
on the other components because this one
likes to shift around a little bit so
I've got good I've got a good seen with
good overlap up here so on this
particular part I'm going to start
taping it at the top I've got a little
bit of an opening down here so I'm gonna
start squeezing I'm squeezing with my
left hand and pushing down in the center
with my ride till it seemed looks just
the way I want it
because we used a real heavy bead of
glue still head and cool and we still
have time to work all right that piece
looks good now that we have all the
sections of fuselage glued together and
all the former's glued we're going to go
ahead and start creating the fuselage I
generally start at the nose of the
aircraft and move backwards first thing
I do is I will lay this small one this
first one on top of the second one I
start off by lining these twos up
exactly you don't want to clock one way
or the other try to get them as close as
you can as long as you line these seams
up everything will match up very nicely
and I'm looking for a nice clean seam so
it looks like I've got a nice clean seam
between this vertical seam and about
here so we're looking at about 25% of
the entire circumference now I'm going
to do is add glue to about 25% of the
circumference
sometimes you can do more sometimes you
do less sometimes you can put glue all
the way halfway around it just kind of
depends on how these parts lay on top of
one another so the seam is lined up here
and as this glue cools and keeping my
fingers out of the glue but I'm keeping
those edges nice and clean now I'm going
to do is start seeing how far I can glue
the next section and it looks like I'll
be able to do it about the midway point
I'm going to pry the part open so
there's a gap and I'm going to squirt
just a little glue in there you don't
have to get the entire circumference any
spots that we miss we can go in from the
back and add a little bit more glue a
little bit later
okay everything's coming together really
nicely so again I'm gonna squeeze and
create a gap come in add a little bit of
glue I got a little excess on here so
I'm going to wipe it away with some
scraps the other reason you don't want
to use a whole lot of glue is if you
come in from the inside you don't want
to have a whole bunch of hot glue
dripping down or it'll burn your finger
okay so we've got a nice clean shape
there now I'm going to do make
everything strong move it a real healthy
beat glue all the way around
[Applause]
with that cool
gonna grab the next section and before
we connect these two pieces together I'm
gonna go ahead and install the first for
the former's we'll have a tick mark at
the six o'clock position that tick mark
will line up with the seam it's very
important that that tick mark always
line up with that scene there are a
number of these and if you have one
that's clocked incorrectly your power
pot is not going to fit in the way it's
supposed to
sometimes these will go right in and
sometimes they require a little bit of
work if I were just to take and press
this down right now I would be tearing
away a little bit of foam and that's
what I want to avoid since this part is
a little bit tight up here I'm going to
use an exacto knife I'm just gonna hold
my exacto knife at an angle and I'm
going to drag it around the perimeter
and I'll show you here in just a second
how much I'm taking off
we're not taking off a whole lot so
we're coming in not quite 45 degrees you
can see that I'm only cutting through
this first layer and I'm not really even
getting into the second layer and let's
see if I've removed enough to make this
fit in here we go
so that fits nicely now you can see I'm
not quite clocked correctly and that's
enough to kind of throw things off so
I'm going to take a twist this part if
you need to pull the parts out that's
okay
there we go now you'll also notice that
I left the tape on there I don't remove
the tape until I'm completely done with
the fuselage if you install formers
without the tape you're going to create
a gap right there and that gap can be
fixed but every time you add glue you
risk getting excess glue all over the
place so just leave the tape on there
and we'll just peel it off at the end
one of these pieces came off that's okay
it's purely decorative we'll add that on
here shortly I'm going to take and Bend
these backwards and apply some glue
right along the inside I'm gonna do half
of them
and then I'm gonna push them but not
quite close that all the way what those
to be kind of flared just slightly after
about 45 seconds to a minute we'll do
the other side if you remember we had
one piece fall off right there and we'll
glue that back on now we'll do the other
side same as before be the glue
we'll do it all with that one that fell
off if you have any pieces fall off just
glue it right back on now that this
former is in place I'm gonna go ahead
and glue this section on so just like
before I'm gonna lay this piece on and
it looks like that I can go almost all
the way to the halfway point before I
glue this in place I am going to make
sure that my seam is visible down here
because when I'm assembling this I
always have this seam where I can watch
it again it's critical that this stuff
doesn't get rotated one way or the other
I'm gonna add glue as much as I can
right on the exposed white foam
okay we're good there now we're gonna
finish gluing this together I'm gonna
squeeze it top and bottom that's going
to give me a little bit more of a gap
again I'm not worried about getting it
around the entire perimeter I'm most
concerned with having a nice clean seam
[Music]
now that I've got this glued in several
places I'm going to go around the inside
with a heavy bead of glue now I'm going
to flip it over I'm going to go around
this former with a heavy bead of glue
now we're going to add the next four
month
so grab this section there's a small
tick mark right up here at the top it's
gonna line up with this long score so
we're going to want it like this I'm
gonna add glue
line up the tick mark I'm mashing this
upwards a lot I really want this thing
seated against this edge and now that
it's pushed down I'm going to squeeze it
side to side while that cools hold this
for about a minute
now we'll add this small section maybe
be to glue and put this right in the
bottom there's a little tick mark line
that up with the same now I'm gonna do
is I'm gonna kind of stretch get some
small gaps it's alright hold this for
about 45 seconds now we're going to glue
this section onto here you'll notice
that this is slightly larger than this
so when the two go together there's
actually going to be a little bit of a
lip so when we glue this on just make
sure that that lip is consistent all the
way around I generally put this piece on
all at once it's not really critical how
this one fits
again I'm gonna align this seam with
this one I used a pretty heavy bead of
glue so I'll have plenty of time to
position this and you can see this lift
I'm talking about because we used a
heavy b2 glue let's give it a little
closer to a minute we're done shift bugs
all right so I'm gonna step in for a
moment real quick to show you how we're
gonna go ahead and put this pot assembly
together John did a great job building
the cowling and we have as main fuselage
piece what we want to do here is we want
to give this a quick test fit to make
sure that this pod slips down inside the
cowling just like you see the way we're
gonna make sure that this stays nice and
square is where I put our attention
towards the very front and make sure
that this is close to being flush as
possible all the way around here if you
notice it's kind of a has a big gap at
the top that means you're gonna have the
wrong thrust angle so take your time to
do a quick test fit even if you have to
trim a little bit giving glue globs out
of the way to make sure that it's nice
and flush all the way around now when
we're test-fitting everything make sure
that we always keep this bottom
reference line as the bottom the bottom
of this is going to be the piece that
you see here the shorter segment of the
power pod and holder once you have that
fit you can pull this out and we're just
gonna put glue where we need it I'm
gonna go ahead and I'm gonna focus my
glue on the three sides that are gonna
make contact right around those three
edges then I'm going to pass this
through one final time and look for
alignment don't worry about that extra
glue squirt now we're gonna go ahead and
take a scrap piece of foam and smooth it
out one thing I really like to do is
after everything is dry I like to go
back with another layer glue just around
the seams and smooth it out once more
we're gonna let this thoroughly dry and
then we're gonna start preparing the
front part of our fuselage to fit the
cowling onto while the front portion of
my caliing is drying I'm gonna go ahead
and dress a couple pieces on this just
to make sure everything goes really
smooth first thing is is our kelvins
gonna meet this top portion nice and
flush in order to keep it that way we
need to go ahead and trim this portion
off so if we actually projected a
straight line through here we'll remove
the material that's gonna get in the way
along with that the two bottom corners
of our sleeve are gonna kind of conflict
with these two areas right here so what
I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and
carve out the areas just ahead once
again projecting an imaginary line just
in front of that to make sure that
everything slides through nice and easy
all right so we'll do the top one first
year what I kinda like to do is kind of
hold a measuring line and see where it
lifts up that's where I'm gonna remove
easy way to tell that you're good is if
you roll this down on the table it
doesn't bump up you're nice and flush
let's go ahead and put our attention
also into these two corners here now
when we test fit this we may want to
make a little bit more removal but I'm
just gonna go ahead no and I need to
take most of it off now I'm just gonna
go in each way okay chew out those
corners this is going to give us another
little spot that we can have Glee down
in another little point of rigidity
with these areas carved out we're gonna
go ahead and give ourselves a test fit
here I'm gonna go ahead and slide once
again making sure that my bottom seams
are on the bottom I'll slide this
forward I'll just kind of use the table
as my friend and what I'm looking for is
to get this cowling lined up nice and
neat with this back seam that you seam
here that seam is gonna be our reference
line to make sure that our thrust angle
is consistent notice I'm not forcing
anything if I have to for something most
likely I need to trim something that
looks really good if we're happy with
the way everything looks we can go ahead
and remove this just a little so now I'm
going to focus my glue right inside this
crevice right here on both sides and
that way I'm going to slide this back in
and then re-establish my thrust line
notice I'm keeping my nozzle below those
fins just so it doesn't make a mess
they're back on the table
little rocking motion doesn't wonders
once we're happy with that
I'm just gonna go ahead and kind of take
my hands spread it around and hold this
now make sure that when you squeeze in
on this that you're not actually pushing
the piece right back out just kind of
look around make sure you're happy with
the way everything looks and that looks
wonderful give us about 45 seconds to
dry so our kalyan and our fuselage are
now one-piece but I want to make it this
a little bit stronger someone wouldn't
take my glue gun and I'm gonna go ahead
and focus that nozzle down in there and
I'm gonna just drizzled glue right over
the main seams then I'm gonna come back
with a scrap piece of foam and smooth it
out
we're gonna do this on both sides and as
much of the top as we can get kind of
use a scrap piece and the hot glue kind
of like a paintbrush and paint our
fuselage and our power pots leave all
ready to go keep in mind you may have to
kind of crush down your power pot a
little bit cuz it's gonna be a nice snug
fit I'm gonna go ahead and hand this
back to John and he can help you finish
off the fuselage all right now we're
gonna add this warmer and I'm gonna
apply glue about halfway up this
rectangle up on both sides it'll light
up tick marks to that crease gently
pinch that closed you'll want to hold
that for at least a minute there and add
a little more glue on these edges that
are still sticking up and will hold next
we're going to move to this section
we're going to go ahead and add formers
again I'm leaving the tape on so when we
stick the formers in it doesn't rip that
apart all right so the former we're
putting in is this shape this one is
larger than this one we're going to put
the small wing towards the back of the
plane first thing I'm gonna do is line
up that tick mark with the seen and
we're going to see what this will fit
again we don't want to push too hard we
don't want to crush or deform the edges
of the foam because it's kind of
pear-shaped
we're gonna have to squeeze on either
side of that to fit in
and it it seems pretty good if there's
still given your little fits going in go
ahead and pop it back out and we ran out
a debuff like we did on an earlier one
this time I'm going to cut into that
that top layer as well I found
especially up here at the top I
definitely make sure and add some relief
there because that's usually one of the
areas that doesn't want to go so you can
see now we've got a really good bevel
we'll try fitting that in again line up
that tick mark you see how that fits in
there nice I've got a little bit of a
gap on either side that's alright
in fact that's a really good place just
to add some glue squirt some in either
side and I'm also going to run the bead
around the top there and then apply some
pressure hold this for a minute and a
half hold it a lot longer than what you
think
cuz you definitely want this shape to
hold if it pulls away from the former
when we fit the part in front here
there's going to be a gap and you don't
want that now that this former has been
glued in I'm going to add one here in
the back there's two of them that are
very close to the same size the one we
want the two formers are the same size
so we'll try test fit
and this one looks really tight like on
others we're going to cut a bevel see
that'll go in now line my tick mark with
its same now you can see then that fits
in there nicely so what I'm going to do
is I'm just going to drip glue through
this rectangle in the front around the
perimeter
while that's cooling I'll grab the
windshield gonna figure out which side
looks the worst and in this case both
sides look great so it's going to peel
this one and when I take to the edge of
the table and I'm gonna drag it you can
kind of see that I'm using just a little
bit of a circular motion as I drag it if
you look at this leading edge it's
always 90 degrees to the table so now
starting to look like a windshield it's
the feel where the foam that's being
crushed on the back and it's pliable
right there right here still needs a
little bit of work so I'm gonna kind of
move that down move it around and kind
of see again where that leading edge is
roughly 90 degrees to the table okay
that looks pretty good
so what I'm gonna do now I'm going to
build the canopy let's start out by just
applying heavy beauty glue towards the
inside I have one a little bit higher
than the other touch kind of dab dab and
then shingle the paper and hold for
about 45 seconds while that's cooling
now we've got to get the former put
inside this final section you'll notice
that this one is smaller than this one
with a smaller one towards the rear
let's test fit it
find that tick mark up with the scenes
pretty close but I'm afraid I'm going to
be messing up a little bit of this foam
and so I'm gonna bevel this smaller
warmer just a little bit it looks like
I'm mostly just going to need to do it
at the top the others I've gone all the
way around but we're really really close
so I'm just going to bevel it here at
the top now that I've got that beveled
I'll put a little glue all the way
around the edge on the inside line my
tick mark with my seen and push that in
now we're gonna glue the other side of
the canopy
be the glue along the inner edge I'm
going to push down right here because I
twist this around and dab and shingle
just like I did on the other side I mean
you'll definitely want to hold this for
a minute or more more there's quite a
bit of tension on this you'll definitely
want to make sure that glue has had
plenty of time to cool before you let go
now we're going to add the final section
of the canopy just this little thumbnail
piece right here
peel one side or the other it doesn't
matter and we're just going to roll this
over the edge of a table I'm going to
test fit this piece and now looks pretty
good
all right so before John goes ahead and
puts these two fuselage pieces together
we're gonna go ahead and put the push
rods in what we're gonna do is we're
just gonna line up these two dots that
you see right here
and I just like to kind of put a little
crease and I'm gonna go ahead and make a
light little crease right through there
once we have our slip done we're gonna
go ahead and put the coffee stirrer
right through the push rod like you see
here now we can go ahead and need to
take our push rod we can push it through
and let naturally just kind of find that
hole like you see here now I can go
ahead and take the straw and guide it
through little rocking motion should pop
right through the hole so we now have a
push rod that can go all the way through
and can even pop through this section
here and guide all the way to the front
you can pull this out and do it to the
same to the other side all right so here
are the two index marks on the other
side of our fuselage we're gonna do the
same process we're just going to go
ahead and put a light crease down
through here we're going to take our
coffee stirrer we'll pass it through all
the way up to the zband
and now we can go ahead and we can push
our push rod through and we'll just kind
of find that hold we have in our formers
pass it through and add the coffee strip
do the work and take away that friction
so at this point both of our push rods
will easily pass through the fuselage
I'm gonna hand this back to John he can
show you how to put the fuselage
together now we're going to connect the
two sections a fuselage together you can
see we've we've passed the coffee
stirrers from one section to the other
I'm gonna go ahead and push these things
together and see how they fit everything
seems to line up okay in the event that
one of them is off side to side or up
and down you can go in with a tool and
make one of these holes a little bit
bigger so the things so that this closes
up a little neater so I'm going to do
pull this out just a little bit and
apply glue
all the way around and make this scene
look as good as I can then we put a
piece of tape across there now we're
going to connect these two sections
together before we do that you need to
add a little bit of a bevel on the
inside of the canopy so that it fits
nicely together so I've cut a pretty big
sliver on the inside of the canopy now
I'm going to check the fit and you can
see that it's nice and snug we'll push
it together here and just a minute check
the other side and that will close up
nicely I'm go ahead and tape the canopy
as well just to keep that for you break
it open
and apply a whole bunch of glue all the
way around the edge
[Applause]
we want to watch that tick mark and make
sure it lines up with that scene if
everything is built right you really
don't need glue around the canopy unless
you've got something sticking up after
everything cools we'll go ahead and
remove all the tape and I'll show you
how to smooth out some of these seams
that don't look as good as the others
also there's going to be spots that are
a little bit higher on one side than the
other I'll show you how to smooth those
out a little bit now that the glue is
all set we can remove tape again when
you're pulling tape only pull it to the
scene don't go across it cuz you might
see laminate
now we're going
clean up the seams between the fuselage
sections you'll notice right here on top
normally we like to shingle one piece of
paper under the other well it might
start out high on this side but by the
time it wraps around to the top it's
below and it kind of just forms the this
kind of send perfection and so if you
get a brand-new razor blade and you go
right along that seam that's gonna do is
you'll cut away part of that you won't
have a completely perfect seam but it's
gonna be really close I'm pressing hard
enough to cut the paper I'm not pressing
hard enough to cut the glue and I'm just
going to go around this a couple times
we've cleaned up a lot of that but still
this side is just slightly higher than
this side kind of work this with your
thumb you'll feel that foam giving way
I'm using enough pressure that I can
feel the foam giving way but you don't
want to press so hard that you're going
to punch through the foam or create a
wrinkle my recommendation would be start
on the bottom that way while you're
getting the feel for the pressure if you
do actually make a mistake and you put a
little tiny crinkle in it it's going to
be hidden down below also I'm going to
be looking for any delamination and if I
come across in delamination don't spit a
little drop of glue all right this this
side looks pretty good I'm gonna move
over just a little bit do the same thing
there we go that's looking pretty clean
next we're going to move on to the tail
let's start there very 80s out do that
on both sides with a score up we're
gonna remove paper here and here
okay when I'm applying glue I'm keeping
everything away from this score at 45
seconds we'll get it we'll keep pressure
on the wrist now I'm going to fold the
elevator all the way back and like we've
done before draw my exacto knife
straight across a nice clean double
check in to make sure I didn't
accidentally go too deep when that
happens we can just put a piece of tape
on here
with the elevator still folded over I'm
gonna put a line of glue all the way
across one side and with a scrap piece
of foam and wipe away all that glue do
the same on the other side and white boy
does this give it about 30 seconds
before you move your elevator and you're
done now we're going to cut the slot
with a horizontal stabilizer to fit in
you're gonna see some small marks at the
back of the fuselage I kind of play
connect the dots you see two little
marks there on the end what we're going
to do is we're going to use our exacto
we're going to cut from this mark which
is closest to the center to this mark
right here I'm going to use a straight
edge to help me it's a little bit
awkward holding the straight edge so I'm
just gonna lightly draw a line I'll go
over that line three or four times so I
cut all the way through
now we'll connect the tick mark right
here we're going to connect this one
with this one right here now that piece
of pop right out
I'm gonna do the same on the other side
we'll start at the top again again we're
going to this top tick mark to the one
that's closest to Center and a straight
edge light line
once you go over two or three times you
can probably get rid of the ruler and
just follow the line you've started here
we go now we've kind of slot cut all the
way through and we're gonna be able to
begin to slide a horizontal stabilizer
in it's a little tight you might want to
remove a little bit of material because
you don't want to tear this that feels a
little bit snug so I'm going to go and
remove a little bit more material before
I push that through remove a little
material from the top now see we removed
enough to allow that to slide in feels
pretty good I'm not gonna glue it in at
this point because once we get the wings
on we might have run into some real
minor clocking issues along the way and
one side may be higher than another and
we may have to cut a little bit more
relief and twist it this way or cut a
relief over here and twist it that way
now we're gonna do the vertical
stabilizer and we're going to be using a
barbecue skewer and I'm going to have
this barbecue skewer stick out about an
inch and a half it'll fit kind of inside
this little channel right here so I'm
going to kind of Mark it with my thumb
I'm gonna take my exacto knife and I'm
gonna roll and as I'm rolling I've got
pressure on my exacto knife this
cutting all the way around then you can
just break it off and that works really
well so now I'm going to do is I'm going
to tear off rest of this foam and I'm
going to take that barbecue skewer okay
that looks good and we're going to glue
it in place
I'm gonna do is I'm going to put a light
layer of glue kind of smear it on this
paper I'm just gonna take and roll this
now I have a nice rounded edge nice and
clean looking now you'll notice that the
vertical stabilizer doesn't swing free
we're going to take an exacto knife and
we're going to make this cut right here
it comes scored from the factory the
concern is it's going to form a weak
spot right here so it's going to ship to
you but this is a score but you need to
make it into a cup before we attach this
to the fuselage I'm going to swing this
open and we're in a bevel it just like
we've done before get the right angle
and we're going to draw the knife across
and you can see where my knife went up
the problem I had was I didn't have
clockwise pressure so this time I'm
going to do it again
with a little bit of clockwise pressure
and now we got a good dollar take a bead
of glue apply it and then wipe it away
there are two small marks on the top of
the receiver one here and one up here
this represents your centerline what
we're gonna do is we're going to put
back edge right up against this edge
right here right on that slow line I'm
sure the fuselage the barbecue skewer
push straight down now that the skewer
is through the fuselage I'm going to
swing the whole assembly off to one side
and draw a line straight down the middle
lift it up just a little bit drop it
down and let's let that cool for about a
minute our next step is to build the
sleeve that the power pot is gonna slide
into in the front of the nose to do this
we're gonna go ahead and take the piece
that looks like this and we're also
going to go ahead and weed out the
channels that you see here once
everything's Wiis out we're going to go
ahead and do a quick test fold remember
that a means that the side plate is
above the bottom plate and the glue this
properly we're gonna keep the side plate
firm against the table and we're gonna
go ahead and focus our glue right on the
bottom of the side plate let's hold this
up 90 degrees and give it about 45
seconds and then do the same process on
the other side once again we always like
to try to focus the glue where it's
gonna give us most of our strength and
in this case on the 8th floor it's gonna
be on the bottom of the side plate so I
play for EM yes table rotate 90 degrees
and hold it for 45 seconds all right one
last fold here we're gonna go ahead just
do a quick test it just looked a little
bit of piece of paper around here just
to kind of finish off that seam and give
us some extra rigidity everything looks
really good
so this case we're gonna go ahead and
put glue on both these top pieces here
and here just fold this up and hold
so next step now this is a Bilt we're
gonna go ahead and pass this through to
the front this is gonna be the front
portion and it's actually going to key
in to the section that you see right
here now unfortunately I made a mistake
I put the servos in before I supposed to
which caused me not to be able to have
enough clearance to pass the strip so I
went ahead and remove one so I can do so
we're gonna be showing you this video
how to do it in the right order alright
some passes on through it's gonna have a
little resistance just for that bottom
sheet cow meets with it we'll go ahead
and reached in and take that little ring
that kind of gives these fins their
angle I'm gonna go ahead and crush it
down in the two corners this will push
up against the pod and get a little
extra strength but right now it's
resisting it then we can just rock it
through and push it all the way forward
should be a nice tight fit so don't
force it take your time and it will
slide right into place once we push this
through you're gonna see that this
actually notches a beautiful Eve nice
and flush right with the top this gives
us our thrust angle it also gives a nice
secure fitting for our power pod to
slide in now keep in mind our power pots
actually have slide and inverted in this
and you'll see that in a few short steps
in the meantime once we're happy with
this we can go ahead and we can put a
bead of glue right around the rim and
then also take the bead of glue right
along the inside that you see here
so we went ahead and we put glue around
our seams smeared a month of scrap piece
of foam our power pot sleeve is now done
we're ready to move on to our next step
so this part is getting exciting here
we're gonna go ahead and get to put
control surfaces and get them moving
with these servos here first thing we
want to do is we want to get the servo
centered as you see here now if you
haven't sent them servos before we have
a great video on that link below so we
got our servo centered we're also going
to use our two long push rods that are
included with the kit if you're
scratch-building and not doing this for
a kit we do have a link down below as
well where you can get a whole pack of
these they work great on scratch builds
so the first step we're going to do
before we go ahead and pass our push
rods to the coffee stirrers is we're
going to take a barbecue skier and we're
going to hook it through the rear
bulkhead so everything lines up real
nice there's two now with a little
twisting motion we can go ahead and pass
our push rods through our coffee
stirrers and with your two fingers go
ahead and guide the push rod until it
lines up with the hole and then pass it
through I'd do this on both sides with
your rudder push rod you may actually
find that you have to push down a little
bit to get the push rod to level out and
then I'll pass straight through the hole
no problem you shouldn't feel any
resistance at all on either one of your
push rods with our push rods pass
through let's go ahead and put our
attention towards the control horns on
the rear surfaces our first step is
we're going to go ahead and go to the
outermost hole and we're going to pass
it through let's go ahead and make a
temporary connection making sure that
the holes of our push rod match directly
over our hinge line same process on the
rudder
we're going to connect our control horn
to our push rod we're going to take it
up and we're going to press it into the
rear of the rudder you have any kind of
binding like we do here you can always
go ahead and you can take your razor
blade and you can just put a little bit
of a relief right in the bottom or
surface alright let's let me flip this
over and put our attention towards the
inside the fuselage we now know how long
our push rods are gonna be so what we
can do next is we're going to look for
right around the center section here now
because the wings the Corsair going to
kind of go up and into the fuselage we
don't want to mount these servos too low
we want to make sure that they're up
high enough to do that we're gonna go
ahead right around where the wing is the
highest and we're just gonna go ahead
and put our thumb once we have this
we're going to go ahead and Bend down
straight towards the fuselage got about
two millimeters over and Bend 90 degrees
once again this is called a modified Z
Bend notice I scratched the edge of the
servo here we want this to be nice and
gritty so it bites really well into the
foam we don't want the server to come
loose because we don't want to lose
control of our aircraft we're gonna go
ahead and go to the outermost hole of
the server warm and roll it up making
sure that we haven't moved our servo if
we have to press ENTER a resetar and
again that's okay we're gonna go ahead
and mount our servos about an inch above
the bottom of the wing surface once
you're happy with where it fits I kind
of push down hard in the foam and let it
kind of sink in so I have a good index
let me go ahead and put some glue on the
back of my servo and the biggest thing
I'm gonna look for here is to make sure
that my rudder is nice and centered as I
hold it in place you see I'm holding us
in place and my rudder sound give us a
good minute to dry before you move on to
the next step now that our rudders done
we're gonna go ahead and do the Zack
same process now on our elevator make
sure with the elevator that doesn't move
too far because you got to remember it's
not glued in quite
so we're gonna go ahead and mark right
around the middle again we're gonna grip
it we're gonna bend straight down we're
gonna grab it about two millimeters down
and we're gonna straight over I got my
survey wall pre scuff we're gonna go to
the outer most hole again so this is all
you need to get it to pass through all
right you've done one last little check
make sure everything looks really good
with the elevator once again I'm gonna
go down about an inch below the surface
of the wing make a little indent make
sure I'm happy with where it should be
right where it's about flat everything
looks good nice big glob of glue and
then right back down like I'm always
gonna make sure that my elevator and my
control surfaces are nice and flat as a
blue dress if not go ahead and move it
immediately and then let the glue set
for at least one minute now that our
servers are all glued in and a push rods
are all set we can go ahead and lift
these up one at a time and we'll just
put a little bit of glue right where
that slot is and then press it down
through again I know I say this a lot
but it's really important let the glue
thoroughly dry on this so you have a
nice control link for your airplane all
right our servos are now done we're
ready to move on to our next step
so our next step is gonna be to build
our power pod now this is the same
dimensions of a normal power pod but
just like the FT Scout it's actually a
little bit shorter now if you have a
typical power pod you can actually cut
it short to the same length that you see
here and build along with us
the first thing we're going to do is
when clear out our cavities simply fold
it over 180 degrees and peel off the
foam and our next step is doing a fold
once again a fold is where the side
plates go above the bottom plate so
we'll leave the side plate firmly
against the table as we rotate up 90
degrees let's go ahead and focus the
majority of our glue on the bottom
surface of the side plate up to 90 and
hold for about 45
seconds all right our glue is dry let's
go ahead and do the other side little
bead down on the table up to 90 now we
have the main portion of our pod
complete we're gonna go ahead and glue
on our swappable firewall now if your
scratch belt along with us you can also
go to our storing if five packs of these
if you don't wanna have to scroll cut it
out we're gonna glue this with the
bottom surface as you see here and as
you're facing towards you it's on the
bottom left if it's facing away from you
it'll be on the bottom right for this
little open cavity here that's gonna be
where we pass our wires through once
we're happy with that we can go ahead
and sit as a vertical on the table put a
nice bead of glue and we're just gonna
place this right up there once again
making sure that this hole is in the
bottom left hand corner if it's facing
towards you give this about a min to dry
and then we're gonna tape it you're
gonna go ahead and take about 10 inches
of tape and centering it up we're gonna
focus a tape not on the top surface but
just below those two holes centering up
on both sides and just like how we wrap
a gift we're gonna go ahead and press
this down we're gonna fold in one edge
we're gonna fold in the other we're
gonna fold it in the front don't neglect
this step because this is what gives you
power pot all the strength it needs so
when you land rough or have a hard hard
crash most likely this will not break
for you all right next up here we're
gonna want to take a exacto knife here
we're going to trim out the centered
holes and we're just gonna pop where the
wood screws are gonna go and of course
we're gonna clear out where our wires
are going to pass through I've already
assembled our new Ft radial CPAC motor
this is a 20 to 18 motor has more power
and efficiency than our old C packs now
if you're building along and you do have
an old C motor don't worry that's gonna
give you plenty of power this just gives
you a little bit more four-cell
capability and also the ability to swing
a 10-inch prop on three cell or four
cell which means crazy power alright so
let's go ahead and screw this in I
already have the back assemble to have
the X mount assembled and screwed in I'm
just gonna go ahead and guide one wire
at a time through
and you'll see that the x-mount lines up
beautifully right with the firewall
holes alright we're gonna take the
screwdriver that's included with our
CPAC we're gonna go ahead and guide that
through what you're going to notice is I
only put three screws in the motor mount
that's gonna be more than enough but
also I kind of want to avoid this one
right here because when this is mounted
in the airplane upside down I don't want
the battery to fly forward and puncture
itself on that screw right there so
we're just gonna go ahead and leave it
out so next we gotta go and put our ESC
on you're gonna notice that this is
different
ESU than our classic CPAC the cool thing
about it is our new B and C packs
actually come with a 35mm ESC they're
both the same these are actually capable
of bursts over 50 amps with no problem
whatsoever we're gonna pair this with
this motor to get the efficiency and the
power we need so first thing we need
we're going to let make these Street
connections and when we fire up the
profit if it spins this way we don't
want all we need to do is slide out the
power pot and reverse any of these two
connections and we'll spin the prop the
other way our power pod is now done
we're ready to move on to the next step
which is putting in the airplane so our
next step here is we're gonna take our
power pod and we're gonna go ahead and
fit it down now you're gonna notice
typically our power pot always mounts
where the bottom surface is facing down
in this case we're gonna feed this
through and we're gonna mount it with
the cavity facing down like you see here
so it's really important here that we
want this to go back as far as possible
but we want to make sure that doesn't go
so far back that the prop hits it so I
like to take it back just enough right
about there
before we scare this in we'll put the
prop on and we'll make sure that we have
the clearance that we want alright so
for our next step we're gonna go ahead
and start hooking up our receiver now
this is really cool this is a new
spectrum receiver it's not broken this
actually doesn't have any external
antennas which in my case is wonderful
because often times I end up breaking
them we range tested these things and
they work phenomenal so we're gonna go
ahead and push this up and cool thing
also about it it has a bind button
instead of a bind plug which makes
hooking up even easier I've taken my DX
80 and I've dial it to a new model and
I'm gonna go ahead and go through the
buying process now first thing we're
gonna do is we're gonna go ahead and
line up our top yellow plate and we're
gonna stick it into channel 1 where
throttle is notice on the very top here
it says data
that's going to correspond with this
white line or yellow line to put on the
connector you have that will be your
data line so we have ground power and
data next we'll go ahead and take our
rudder servo a rudder servo will go in
port number 4 and finally we'll take our
elevator servo and that's going to go
into port number 3 always make sure when
you're doing this step that you keep
your prop off because if anything is
reverse you don't want this to go
full-throttle it can potentially hurt
you with our transmitter turned off and
I'm just going to hold the bind button
down with my thumb you unplug in our
battery we have a flashing orange light
I'm gonna go and take this at least
three feet away power it on my holding
on the back button there's bail alright
so now it's a really good time to go
ahead and make sure our controls are
going the right direction for our rudder
when we push our rudder to the right we
want to see it go right in this case
it's going left which means I need to
reverse it let's go ahead and look at
the elevator so we can reverse it and
change everything at once when I pull
back the rear elevator should go up and
it goes down so all I need to do I just
need to go into my servo setup go to
travel collect it roll it over to
reverse click on reverse I'm gonna go to
elevator reverse my elevator I'll go to
rudder and reverse my rudder
now when I move my rudder everything
looks good when I move my elevator
everything moves good in our kit we're
gonna have a throw gauge so you can dial
this in twelve degrees will be low rates
sixteen degrees will be high rates and I
love run and 30% expo on both okay let's
go ahead and plug in our wings and get
our ailerons all centered up and then
we'll also make sure our motor spins the
right direction all right I'm just gonna
go ahead and loosely set this right on
top of the airplane it's really taking
shape beautifully we'll go ahead and
make our connection in port number two
there we go alright it's really close
when I push my stick to the right the
right aileron goes down which is wrong I
want to go up so I'm gonna go back into
my servo setup I'm gonna go over to
reverse and I reverse my Ella so now I
can go into my sup trim because I'm just
a little bit off go to aileron and I'll
simply roll the scroll and tell us where
I want alright our last step on the
controls is to make sure our problem is
the right direction and we want the prop
to go counterclockwise so and this is
perfect
now if this is wrong all we need to do
is go to our ESC leaves there's gonna be
three of them pick any two of the leads
and reverse those unplug one swap it out
with the other and plug them ball back
in make sure that the brass connections
don't touch or it'll short out your ESC
and your motor that will reverse the
direction of your motor in this case all
of our controls were at the right
direction
our throws are good we're ready to go on
to our next step our next step here is
I'm gonna disconnect the links I'm gonna
go ahead and put a prop on temporarily
and then I go to the drivers skewers
through to lock in my power pot alright
so this is great I have just about a
pinky with a space right between the
cowling and the motor to close that's
gonna be a little bit noisy and too far
away it's just gonna look kind of funny
we're gonna go ahead and leave this here
I'm going to make sure that the power
pot is firmly against the sleeve which
it is now our kids you're gonna see four
different holes I went ahead and made
them a little bit bigger here just so
you can see them easier on this plane
what we're gonna do is we're gonna go
ahead pass this through we're not gonna
try to stick it all the way through one
side through to the other side because
there's a good chance that we won't be
able a line we're gonna go ahead and
with a twisting motion this is going
right through that ball cut so there's
lots of straight there we're gonna pass
it on through just like you see here and
then we're gonna go over to the other
side I can do the same process try to
get this as level as possible at the
elevator I actually move it and I site
this down and keep these parallel
between the elevator and the skewer
twisting motion again it'll pop to the
firewall and I just like to make sure
that it's all guiding through so I'll
just go ahead and take a quick look it
looks like we got it perfectly
there's one I'm just gonna go ahead and
just leave just about an eighth of an
inch and we'll go ahead and do it one
more time here once again we're going to
line this up kind of site down make sure
it's parallel with the elevator a little
bit of a twisting motion there's one
side right over to the other side we're
gonna pass it on through there we go so
our power pot is now locked in
everything looks wonderful I'm gonna go
ahead and put my nut on the front end
here cuz our props all done everything's
all situated next up here is we're gonna
go ahead and place some velcro on the
bottom of the shelf here I'm gonna go
ahead and kind of get this key right
here we'll dress this up in a second
we're gonna put a piece of velcro around
the bottom
don't make this velcro too large or when
you put your battery in and you go to
pull it out it's gonna go ahead and
stick so hard that will damage the foam
just give yourself about maybe an inch
and a half of velcro is all you need
often times in my head like this a fuzzy
fuselage so I remember so we're gonna
put fuzzy on the fuselage
I'm also going to cut two other inch
pieces of velcro for the ESC to stick up
we're going to go ahead and stick that
on the inside of the power pie that's
upside down so a lot of people have been
asking on our new ESC s what is this
little port for this is actually an
exhilarating for this taps into the
battery feed and that's filtered so that
way you can power LED lights you can
power fpv equipment it'll actually
provide source voltage from ritual
whether it's three cell or four cell
it'll give you that wall to shoot that
connector so for this I'm gonna go ahead
and leave this loose what we'll do is
we'll make our connection and we can
either velcro on the inside of the wing
or we can just tuck it inside the wing
cavity alright at this point we're ready
to move on I'm gonna hand this over to
my friend John and he's gonna show us
how to finish it off now we're gonna add
some wings I have laid these wings about
where they need to be now you can see
they fit nicely here in the back up
front you're not going down all the way
like they're supposed to I'm gonna do
someone take my exacto knife and I'm
gonna cut a little bit of material away
at the rear
so those wings will drop in nicely
got really good fit front to back I'm
gonna roll it over it seemed looks
really nice we'll push it together there
in the front just a little bit may have
to add a little bit of hot glue to fill
that seam but that isn't a bad fit at
all
check the other side and that looks
really good too so now that I've test
fitted those wings out just a bit and
what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna add
this healthy bead of glue here and here
I'm gonna let this cool for about a
minute and a half I put a lot of glue on
there and I want to make sure that's had
plenty of time to cool down now that the
back has had time to cool off I'm gonna
add a little bit of glue on both sides
going a couple inches on either side use
a piece of scrap remove some of this
excess glue and I'm gonna do the same on
the other side then I'm gonna hold this
down for a little over a minute
so we've got glue added at the rear and
also at the front I'm gonna go back and
add glue anywhere I can
now the wings are on we're going to go
ahead and flip it upside down and we're
going to make sure that our vertical
stabilizer is exactly straight up and
down I'm gonna run a bead of glue down
either side a good way to line up the
vertical stabilizer is to look right
down the top of the fuselage there's a
nice line and you can make an adjustment
side-to-side with the wings on we can
look and see that the horizontal
stabilizer is a little bit crooked and
remember we have not glued this in place
so what I'm going to do is it looks like
it needs to rotate this way just
slightly so I'm going to take a little
bit of material right above this right
hand side I've got my razor blade flat I
don't have to take away very much I'm
shaving away probably a little less than
1/16 of an inch now allow this to rotate
once this is level I'm going to apply a
bead of glue along each side
I'm just gonna do the top after the glue
cools off I'll flip it over and we'll
add another bead of glue on the bottom
you get some excess glue using a scrap
piece of foam go ahead and just wipe
away the excess give this about 45
seconds and then we'll flip it over and
do the other side with a top cooled off
I'm going to go ahead and apply a bead
of glue to the bottom now the vertical
stabiliser horizontal stabiliser are all
lined up when I add a bead of glue on
either side
I'm warning to run fairly thin be the
glue to keep everything nice and clean
so including them the kit is gonna be a
black vinyl canopy decal now if you guys
want to scratch build this all you need
to do is you can download the free
pattern or you can go ahead and pick it
up a store along with the laser-cut
cloud parts so you can build along with
this video too
there we go
installing the final cover things are
gonna fit really well here in the back
there may be a little bit of trimming
that needs to be done up front it looks
a little wide on either side so I'm
going to go in with a razor blade and
make one trend make another trim I may
have to do this in two passes a little
material water I still need to take a
little bit of material off of both sides
and rather do just a little bit at a
time then take too much now so this
piece in order to make sure it lays nice
and flat I'm going to stand this piece
up you know I'm just going to run I'm
going to cut a bevel going from the top
to the bottom
and I'm gonna do
yeah I really close this things up now
the bottoms fitted I'm going to glue to
these rectangle pieces together I'm
going to glue it on here forming a lip
position is a super super critical you
can see I've got about half is glued
about the halfway mark once that cools
drop that tab in and see how it locks
pivot this down and we're going to take
a skewer and an angle shove it through
that doubler I'm gonna back that out and
it went in about that far I take a razor
blade and I'm gonna roll that skewer got
some downward pressure on that razor
blade then you can just snap it clean
find the hole do that otto hölder we're
gonna do the same on the other side so
thanks to John this is now pretty much
ready to fly the next step here is to
establish our center of gravity now
especially on the Corsair this is not a
step that you want to neglect if it's
tail heavy it's simply not gonna fly
well at all or if at all
so what we're gonna do is we're gonna
open up the back hatch that John just
completed and I have a twenty hundred
millionth force out here this is a
really good battery if you look it for
speed make our connection actually surf
for battery compartment we have a nice
open cavity right here where the battery
will be lit up and in just like you see
here then I'm gonna go ahead and try
balancing this with a twenty hundred
million four cell battery now if you
ever flying off of a smaller battery you
may have to add some lead all the way up
in the nose against the front firewall
but for this I'm just gonna go ahead and
slide this in just like that easy way to
tell CG on low wing airplanes is to flip
it upside down and what we're looking
for is a nose heavy attitude right
around the spar that you see here and it
definitely is that so with your fingers
right on top of the spars inverted we're
gonna go ahead and we'll hang this down
what we're looking for is just a slight
nose-heavy attitude typically on
warbirds we're going to balance about
20% back not 30% back so start at this
setting then you can always put a
lighter battery in or move your battery
around to get the desired performance at
this point we can button this up I'm not
going to make any connections until
before cried and John's gonna help you
finish this off now that everything's
put together we're gonna give everything
a good looking over
and see if there's any areas that need
attention I mentioned earlier in the
video we've got a little bit of excess
on this bottom wing I'm gonna go around
this outer edge with the razor blade now
the lower wing matches the upper and
I'll do the same on the other one as
well if you want this leading edge a
little more rounded there's a couple
ways you can simply take your thumbnail
and drag it across and you can see that
foam starting to crush right there on
that leading edge you can also take a
sharpie and do the same thing the
experiment is a little bit with using
heat also whenever we used heat we took
a piece of tape and we ran it from one
end of the wing all the way up the other
and we took just regular iron we have a
small iron here but you can use a
household iron real low heat make sure
you use the tape because if you don't
use the tape this is all gonna just come
open but you can take and you can do a
little bit of shaping there there's
several ways that you can do this or you
don't have to do it at all we test flew
a few of these where we didn't do any
shaping on the leading edge of the wing
it's just a detail if you want to do
that's how we did it
alright the Corsair is done it is time
to maiden alright friends
sadly we finished this build up in the
night and John had to take off to go
back home but we are ready to made with
his amazing creation here and one thing
if you've never made in a plane before
we have a great video called six quick
tips for successful first flight make
sure you check that out because really
important there's a balance
servo direction launching in the wind
things we've all covered it's just a
really great video to give you one final
checklist to make sure you have a great
experience
so everything balances out I'm gonna go
ahead and put this into the wind we'll
see how she flies holy cow
not a click of trim so typically planes
like the Corsair are riddled with issues
with torque I just gave it basically
just a little bit over half throttle in
a gentle launch and she flies amazing
now I am flying a four cell so you guys
can have a bunch more docile experience
if you go ahead and go with a three cell
but balance has always do the crucial
keys let's go ahead and check out slow
flight are you catching that Alex that's
ridiculous
all right do a couple fast passes
no wing waggle nothing all right let's
do it
nice low pass now I've flown a lot of
different Corsairs of this by far has
the best characteristics I've ever flown
out of any of them by from that light
wing loading see how she doesn't small
area here
take it over
- point roll
beautiful all right friends so I'm gonna
go ahead and keep flying this but one
thing I want to really encourage you
this may be a challenging build but it's
not gonna be a challenging plane to fly
it is a great experience it slows down
beautiful thank you again for being part
of the flight test family thank you
again to John for designing such
incredible plane I look forward to doing
a lot more builds a lot more of your
amazing community members in the near
future we'll see you next time