Hello and welcome to the world cup.
The IFSC World Cups
are the biggest show in climbing.
That's how you do it!
Putting on an incredible show here.
There's over a hundred
international athletes.
It's the best of the best.
One more move for Delaney Miller.
You want to win and you want to be on the podium.
Alex Johnson, with a new high point for the ladies.
There's like a hyped crowd,
and you just go out and really leave it all on the wall.
She's got away well with it!
She's going absolutely full tilt!
There are world cups in three climbing disciplines.
She's breaking the world record!
Aries Susanti Rahayu!
Speed,
lead,
and boulder.
The standard being attained now by the climbers
is just incredible.
Women's bouldering in particular,
has changed beyond all recognition
from ten years ago.
What an effort that was!
It's not an easy move.
The boulders become more technical
more powerful, more dynamic.
That move is so nice!
And this next generation of women
world cup athletes, is kind of insane.
A change of the guard as it were
in women's climbing.
Climbers and routesetters are coming up with the most
creative, innovative things that we have ever seen.
It's all the elements that make climbing great.
Condensed into four meters.
Pure power!
In the bouldering world cup,
there's a lot riding on every competition
and the pressure's increasing year by year.
Season 2019.
The 2019 season
had the highest stakes of any season in the history of climbing.
You could qualify for climbing's
first ever Olympics in Tokyo.
There's an amazing depth in the women's field.
But all eyes were on the
20 year old Slovenian, Janja Garnbret.
Janja Garnbret!
Ah, just makes that look so easy.
I'm out of words for this, seriously.
With the right hand, the Janja flick!
What was is?
It's Janja.
Janja.
Janja burst onto the scene in 2015.
Her first ever world cup.
This is Janja Garnbret.
16 years of age.
This is her debut.
Janja looking super solid here.
And it was obvious, even then
that she was going to be something special.
I'm stunned.
Absolutely stunned.
It's like watching poetry in motion.
It really is.
This is the future of climbing.
When I first started watching her compete
she was primarily a lead climber
and then she established herself as a good boulderer as well.
Every bouder is a little special.
But I like the jumps. They are really cool.
And there she goes!
It didn't take her long to go straight to the top.
Looking for a chance to win, come on Janja.
Jana Garnbret lining it up!
She does it!
Janja's the most talented
world cup competitor I've ever seen.
World championships, world cups
two disciplines.
I still can't believe it, I don't know what happened.
You don't really know how it feels to lose, do you?
No.
That's a kind of move she eats up.
She will take big risks.
We have a technical situation, oh!
It's just off screen as Janja gets, oof!
And sometimes the higher the stakes,
The better she performs.
Janja Garnbret is on the stage.
And she's lining it up.
That's an amazing gift.
The perfect start!
Straight up to the zone for Janja.
Janja Garnbret, no mistakes.
Great performance by Janja there.
She seems impervious to nerves
fear, or...
Falling?
Gravity, really?
Here's Janja Garnbret!
She finds a way!
The only thing she hasn't done
is to win every world cup
in a given season.
The unthinkable clean sweep.
Before 2019, I don't think anyone was talking about
the possibility of sweeping a season.
Just because it is so difficult.
The bouldering world cups are so inconsistent.
And it all depends on style, routesetting
and whether the boulders suit you.
so no one has ever been that good
at every single style that's ever been thrown at them.
But if anyone was going to do it,
you thought maybe this amazing woman
from rural Slovenia
could show the world elite how it's done.
I'm Janja Garnbret
I live in Slovenj Gradec
and I'm a climber.
This is my little apartment.
It's messy.
Don't look at the clothes.
This is messy?
I am a bit of a perfectionist.
Since I remember,
I kind of always wanted to be the best in everything.
I wanted to be the best in school,
I wanted to have the best grades.
When Janja was a small girl
She was very hardworking
Right?
Janja was a very flexible and active girl.
Right?
This is Lady Gaga's "Poker Face"
We signed her up for extracuricular activities
She took up dancing
I did a few dance competitions
But it wasn't me.
I wasn't feeling myself on the stage.
I didn't have that huge wish in my heart
that this is what I want to do
that, I want to win.
It has to mean something to you.
At the time I truly hoped she would choose dancing.
But Janja decided differently
Janja wanted to climb.
I remember going on the wall
for the first time.
Feeling weightless.
My moves were smooth already back then.
And I topped the route on my first try.
It was a love at first sight.
But when she started to compete, the real fun began.
In her first competition, Janja came close to last
Next competition it was 6th place, 5th, 3rd...
And then frist, first, first first, first
If I didn't flash a boulder I would cry.
I mean that is stupid.
But if I won a competition
I still had that feeling that
I could do that better
I was my own biggest critic.
of myself and my climbing.
At ten years old, yeah.
There was never any need that we would have to push her
No, never.
Janja always gave her best
Parents are your first sponsor
They drive you everywhere,
they bought my first climbing shoes
So yeah they were always super supportive.
It paid off.
Climbers want to know why you're winning.
I don't know!
Right? They want an answer.
Everybody wants a recipe for success.
But, I don't know.
I was a talent, of course
but talent is not enough.
You need to be a hard worker.
I go on knife.
This is in slovenian, the straight
translation.
Meaning that I go over
my limits every training.
But at the same time, I am always having fun.
For me, having fun is a recipe for success
Because I know that when I'm having fun
I'm also in my element
in my world.
When I'm training, it's not always fun
it can get hard.
But with good people around you,
like Roman, who just pushes you to do better
and have fun, it's way easier.
Why is Janja the best?
Because she's the best.
I don't know.
It's not a secret.
to why she's good.
she's good because she's really
prepared to work hard
and to be better and better and better
every single day.
When I come in front of the boulder
on every competition you get something new
so you have to be prepared for everything.
So many different movements
you can learn.
This is the creative side.
That I really like.
When I'm competing,
I try to be fast, focused
and dynamic.
To move the energy from move to move.
That's just my style.
Number one
done.
I finished high school in summer 2018
so 2019 was my first season
when I could just focus on climbing.
So my full thoughts were there.
There are 6 bouldering world cups a year
and I wondered if it's possible
to win them all.
To do a clean sweep of a boulder season
it had never really been discussed
just because it shouldn't really be possible.
In every world cup final
there are four boulders that are created
by a team of routesetters in complete secrecy.
Every boulder favors certain types of climbers.
So some of them
are easier if you're small,
some are easier if you're tall,
some of them are slabby,
some of them are overhanging,
some of them are powerful,
some of them are technical.
It's so hard to be consistent.
and we'll see athletes on the podium
wearing a gold medal one weekend
and the very next weekend
they don't even make semis.
No one could, or no one should
be able to do well on all the boulders
across the course of a season.
This is just... no it's not possible
But I had a thought.
So yeah the thought already means a lot.
So I was not scared to dream big.
Good evening and welcome to Switzerland
we are live for the first final of
the IFSC season 2019
Charlie Boscoe and Mike Langley
here to talk you through it.
First event of the season is in Meiringen
in Switzerland. It is every climber's
dream to make a world cup final.
They're there representing their country
and they've worked so hard
to get there.
It's all on the line.
The climbers get no practice on the boulders.
They've never seen them before.
They don't know what they're going to be like.
They've had a couple of minutes
to look at it before the competition starts,
and then they go in an area backstage
called "isolation".
They can see the scores
but they don't get to watch their competitors.
They're in the isolation zone
which is just behind the wall.
There's a huge crowd
and the've got to come out
and climb some of the hardest
boulders of all time.
And when they walk out to the wall
they basically go out cold
and they've got to get to the top in 4 minutes.
She's only really got 10 seconds
for a proper go here
Oh no!
We've got Shauna Coxsey on the wall
on the white volume as Shauna matches up
for the zone.
A top for Shauna Coxsey!
Great start.
The pressure that it puts on you
in the 4 minutes that you
have to perform
sort of creates this moment of blackout focus
and it's like pure execution mode.
No doubt who this Meiringen crowd wants to win.
Will the local hero Petra Klingler readily deliver?
Again she's very close
Fanny Gibert really weighting that right foot
to clamp down on this middle volume.
very different method to
what we saw for Petra and very
close for Fanny there.
Growing up I watched all
the competitions and competitors.
Especially Akiyo.
Akiyo Noguchi, 4 time boulder
world cup overall champion.
To see how your role models become
your rivals, yeah this is something
beautiful.
Just picking out how she doesn't even
need the flip.
Akiyo is in really good shape here
and this might be one of those methods
as you can see.
She's got to really trust that
tiny little hold for the left.
Akiyo Noguchi. She is off to
a flying start
So the start of the season
the first world cup is definitely exciting
Janja Garnbret!
It can be rough because I didn't know
where other athlete's levels are at
and I didn't know where my level is at
but it's definitely hard
being like the favorite
in the competition.
It's easy to chase someone
but it's hard being chased.
Here is Janja Garnbret
One of, if the not the finest
female climber in the world right now.
Actually tied all the way through the competition
with Akiyo Noguchi.
First attempt on this boulder.
So far, no problems up to the zone.
Could this be a flash from Janja Garnbret?
Put some real pressure on Akiyo Noguchi.
Janja just needs to lever onto that left foot.
Oh and that's awkward for her.
Janja didn't really get off
to a great start.
From the first boulder in the finals.
She cut her finger.
And the judges told her to tape it
and she was kind of annoyed at that.
Here we go, on the top section again for Janja Garnbret.
She's had to tape up her entire finger.
Across the bit that's actually important, the front of the finger.
Now this is the crux move,
you'd imagine this would be it!
But again, just slips off that left foot.
After one boulder, so a quarter of the way through the final
she was already behind and she was struggling.
Janja Garnbret's gonna be walking away
a huge upset in the start of the women's competition.
And Janja has got to go and do some good
hard thinking behind the back of the wall.
Next climber out there is Shauna Coxsey.
Goes for the pause option.
She's eyeballing the right foot hold
goes for it this time.
Valiant effort.
There's Akiyo Noguchi,
She's gonna completely run out of time.
And that is time up for Akiyo.
Petra trying to figure it out.
She knows what needs to be done.
And she knows how to do it.
Her right hands there
now the left hands there!
And the job really is done.
No matter how good they are,
every climber has a weakness.
Here comes Janja Garnbret.
Janja's is, sometimes
her head is not quite in the right place
because of external factors
or something that's happened.
That shouldn't effect her climbing, but it does.
And that first boulder in Meiringen
could've been a good example of that.
Sometimes in the past, I was frustrated.
But when I stopped having fun
I don't perform my best.
Then I didn't top a boulder problem
just because I was frustrated.
Not because I wasn't strong enough.
That's like what happened in Meiringen.
She just needs to switch back into comp mode.
But this was actually a huge step
for me. I wasn't angry
I wasn't frustrated.
This was just the thing that happened
and I had to deal with that.
So that's the first thing I learned in 2019.
It doesn't matter what happened
and you just push through.
Now Janja Garnbret is in the unusual position
of chasing her competitors.
Ultimately, Janja's not used to falling off.
So when she does, she's into a new mindset.
Big dyno rollover.
She just stands it up.
The leg fired out behind her head.
That's the kind of move she just eats up.
And she's found a top.
Petra Klingler
She's really, really close.
She's just not hitting the sweet spot.
8 seconds to go now
for Fanny Gibert.
Tries to match and the triangle and can't.
Oceana Mckenzie, giving this boulder everything she's got.
There is the penultimate hold.
This is great stuff from Shauna Coxsey.
Eyeing up that red screw on hold.
On the top. And matching.
Akiyo just lining up the final move.
She knows better than to launch
until she's happy.
Goes with the left hand and the right joins it.
She stays very firmly in the hunt.
Here is Janja Garnbret.
The way that she shifted from being
angry and annoyed after the first boulder
to getting her game face back on
was absolutely amazing.
And probably quite ominous for her rivals.
They saw a little bit of weakness
and it lasted maybe 20 minutes.
Janja's actually floating through this bottom section.
Completely in control.
Oh, she's absolutely cruising this.
Out to the right.
She just really needs to stay calm
and be accurate.
This will be the last go.
Couldn't quite find a way.
She's feeling so strong
so that will be that for Shauna Coxsey.
Absolutely out of gas here, Petra.
Akiyo Noguchi
gets it done.
Chooses to match the right hand one.
and finds a way to the top.
The tape goes back on for Janja.
She is seriously determined here.
Janja Garnbret pulls on
Janja safely through that move again.
Safely up to the zone.
Somehow needs to press those volumnes together
or get both hands on the right hand one
Janja Garnbret lining it up!
For the win!
Matches the top!
Finds the win!
She didn't have a great start
to this final but boy, she had a good finish
Are you doing a full calendar this year?
Yeah I'm doing the full boulder season
full lead season.
And it's gonna be a long season.
Well you've got your work cut out
you got off to a perfect start.
Congratulations.
Thank you.
World Cup #2, Moscow, Russian Federation
A week later,
The world cup competitors were in Moscow.
Here comes Janja.
Focused.
In Moscow, Janja flashed all four boulders
in the final.
That means she did every single boulder
on her first attempt.
It's almost unheard of.
Take the zone like that, rock onto the right foot.
Wow, nice.
That doesn't happen.
That's also a flash for Janja.
I think when I came back to 2019 to compete,
Here's Alex on women's one.
I was the strongest I'd ever been.
I'd obviously heard
the name Janja over and over again
Like, the next future phenom.
And I'm just like, yeah okay, I've heard that before.
Yeah yeah, she's talented.
So am I.
She jumped straight on.
Come on Janja.
Being made to work for it.
And then watching her climb
I was like, damn.
She's absolutely cruising this boulder so far.
Going to the top.
I don't know if it's flow
or it's like, it's artistic.
That's a flash for Janja.
Untroubled so far.
And she's really good at coordination moves.
It wasn't that she was executing perfectly,
I think this won't be a problem
It's so hard to explain.
This harmonious balance between I think,
strength and flow.
And it leads to an almost weightlessness.
She'll swing and ride out that momentum to it's apex.
Becoming a bit of a signature move,
when the leg flicks around
and then brings it right back in
and uses it in the next move.
Janja Garnbret, there she goes!
It's crazy watching someone who was so inspiring
and so far above my level.
Perfect start to the season.
I was like, oh yeah.
I get it.
And it's so obvious
that she is changing the sport.
It's next level for sure.
For the next few events,
it was domination.
On a level we've never seen before.
First of three pretty poor holds.
for the right hand
the side pull and then the tiny crimp
It almost turned into like,
I don't care how the rest of the season goes
for me, I just want to watch this.
Janja is not still in the warm up wall
she is actually in a world cup final
and she is claiming a top
and it's a flash
Some of the climbers alongside Janja
in the world cup finals
they couldn't do these boulders.
Miho has ten seconds to go.
She just can't find a way.
Janja was doing them first go
So this is a move that stopped
everyone apart from Akiyo Noguchi.
Janja straight through it.
You can see her pinching the upper left side of that banana hold.
Top beckons Janja Garnbret. Boulder 2.
Flash for her.
Janja Garnbret!
She was leaving the world elite for dead.
A position she needs to be in for the top.
Week in, week out.
She is loving climbing for this crowd.
Win win win win.
In a different way each time.
Goes up with the left
Straight up to the zone from Janja.
Even before she stopped swinging,
she was looking for what was next.
Janja lining it up.
Oh it wasn't in doubt, was it?
At some point the joke is like
she's bored.
It's too easy.
Everyone else is struggling
she's doing it so easy,
she has to be bored.
Which is obviously not the case because she's
having such a good time.
We can see she's really enjoying
every round.
There's the right hand
there's the back to back win
If you're that good I don't know how you could not
have a good time.
How many world cups can she win?
How many records can she break?
You're commentating for the world cup
You have to keep finding new things to say
about Janja.
So I actually went through
and figured out the win ratio was for
Michael Shumacher,
Tiger woods,
Serena Williams
And Roger Federer.
And Janja was almost doubling
and of their win rate.
So I think you could make a pretty strong
case that she's the most
dominant athlete on the face of the planet.
Pop straight up with the left hand.
Remember, a top will do it for Janja Garnbret
She's on to the cheese blocks.
It's such a familiar situation
seeing Janja Garnbret coming out last
with the opportunity to win.
Now the next move will take her to the second
to last hold.
Could this be another flash?
In another final from Janja Garnbret.
Of course it is.
Janja Garnbret always wins in Munich.
And the question now,
for this incredible 20 year old
surely not if she's going to break every
record we've ever seen
in the IFSC, it's a question of when.
After the Munich world cup
there was only one event left in the season.
Vail, Colorado.
Welcome to World Cup of 2017
This time live from the Colorado Mountains.
But back in 2017,
the only boulder world cup she'd ever entered
in her career and not made the final.
Was Vail.
People talked about the curse of Vail.
Meanwhile on Women's one
Janja is not having much fun.
She's struggling.
We've already seen two climbers top all four boulders
and Shauna Coxsey looked well on the way.
Janja might not make it in as long as
Miho does the slab.
Could be groundbreaking, the first
senior comp that she doesn't make it.
Yeah, I was afraid of going to Vail.
Because I had a bad previous result.
But I was trying to
keep it down to earth.
There's definitely something in the water
in Slovenia.
For a tiny country,
in Eastern Europe,
Slovenia just seems to produce an incredible
amount of top, top climbers.
Amazing mountaineers,
through the 80's and 90's.
And then in terms of competition climbing
they somehow manage to churn out
the best climbers in the world.
Yeah we always had like good climbers
Martina Cufar,
Natalija Gros,
Maja Vidmar,
and Mina Markovic.
You always had someone before you
to look up to
and to see oh yeah, this is possible
I also can do that.
Right now,
Janja is the jewel in the crown.
What are you doing to create a successful environment?
For you this year?
Yeah the first thing is actually
having people around you who you trust.
And you see that
they are taking care of you.
So this is my #1 priority.
Keep your circle small.
Roman and I, we are both perfectionists.
So we make a perfect team.
Today's training, I think is just drinking coffee.
And that's it.
Do you push these guys pretty hard?
I expect a lot.
Because I didn't decide that I
want to be the best.
They decided.
So if you want to be the best
then you have to work.
And you have to work hard
every single day.
Drama.
Roman Krajnik
he's a funny guy from Slovenia.
Who also happens to be the best
coach in the world.
Janja why do you choose this crazy man?
to be your coach?
oh you look at him with a little
love in your eyes.
I don't know because
he's just the best.
We are having fun.
But he is training us really, really hard.
The place we train is not very fancy
This place is the weirdest place ever
you have the strongest people in the world
trianing here and then you have kids running around
and there's a pole dancing station up there
You don't need the best gym in the world.
No, you need a training room.
And that's it.
It's small, it's dusty.
But you have everything
30, 45 degrees,
Spray wall,
A slab,
and a campus board,
and I dont need anything else.
When I used to compete,
we would go to Slovenia
to train, to be with the best.
and to try to understand what made them so good.
Training is what they do.
I think the secret is there is no secret.
When it comes to what makes them so good.
They just work hard.
We train together most of the days.
Or like three times a week,
We don't do a lot of
other exercises.
The primary thing that we do
is climbing.
At the competition,
you don't get a true sense of how much better
she is than the others.
I'm a world cup climber
and she does moves, there's no way
I can do.
And just because she loves training this much
she does more than anyone else.
Bad day, sore skin,
bad mood, whatever.
She's gonna do it.
She... She's weird.
How are you feeling?
Tired.
What's that?
I don't know that word.
'tired'
Who could be 'tired'?
What's Janja's weakness?
Right now,
not that many.
Three, two
one, beep!
When I started with her
slab climbing was like
super bad compared to
the other climbing.
That's one thing that we worked a lot
I'm so sorry!
You have to do it again and again.
She's willing to learn
she's willing to work on her weaknesses.
Which is one thing
many athletes don't want to.
Should we try again now?
Huh? Yeah. 2 minutes, huh?
Okay!
She has this super talent
but she's still prepared to work hard.
To be better and better and better
every single day.
And what do you think like fuels that level
of committment for her?
I think it's a really good feeling
to be the best in the world.
Once you know how good that is,
you're gonna do everything to stay the best in the world.
I can't imagine the pressure she's under.
Everytime you climb, basically.
People expect insane things from you.
Eveyone expect that she will win,
that she has to win.
It's more like she has to win.
And that's one thing that I don't like.
Because it's... She's still a human.
She's not a robot.
She could make a mistake or
she has a bad day.
I suppose the pressure on Janja is so
immense, there's ever more exposure
to the media, climbing's becoming much more
mainstream.
Big obligations to sponsors.
And so the level of scrutiny
it's a lot to handle when you're 20 years old.
I don't understand how she handles it.
I wouldn't.
I'm such a perfectionist that
I actually don't feel pressure from other people.
Because I'm so hard on myself that
extra pressure doesn't really bother me.
So I went to Vail
I had one goal.
I knew what I was coming for.
I knew what was at stake.
Going to Vail, Janja
is one win away
from an unthinkable clean sweep.
To the be first athlete in history
to have won every single
bouldering world cup
in a season.
Good morning and welcome to the mountains of Colorado.
We are underway with our final
IFSC bouldering world cup
We've got a very strong semi final
I have doubts of course.
And I always had a thought that I can't
climb good in Vail.
I just didn't want to put myself in
a position where
I would mess up because of my expectation
or expectations from others.
But I just knew what was on the line.
A lot of very strong climbers here.
The crowd is building up nicely.
here in Vail.
I was sitting in the crowd in Vail.
There was so much pressure on Janja.
Because everyone was like
Will she do it?
Can Janja do the clean sweep?
It's never been done before.
I definitely want to see if Janja can do it.
All will be decided here in Vail.
The semi finals in Vail
didn't really go great for Janja.
And of course, in the back of people's minds
was the curse of Vail.
Like in the first boulder
I guess I had my first thought
oh yeah, this is possible,
you can win every world cup
and I think I just put too much pressure on myself
I was just too nervous.
My thoughts were not straight.
It was just my head playing with me.
Two tops, four zones for the final
But Janja will need to top here
had a couple of failed attempts already.
You can see she's under pressure
she doesn't look relaxed.
The other three people who've climbed it
have all flashed it.
Oh my goodness.
There's a gasp from the crowd
as Janja drops that last move.
She looks tired.
A little bit, yeah.
I gotta say, I'm a little confused.
After the second boulder
I got quite scared because
I hurt my shoulder a little bit
And I definitely had some problems after that.
She didn't look comfortable at all.
Mentally or physically.
In Vail that was the first time that I think I
saw her crack
Looking lonely back there.
Janja Garnbret all alone, lost in her thoughts.
We all were like oh...
Mortal.
Oh it still gets to her.
She did enough to make it through to the final
but she's used to being on top
The pressure,
her bad shoulder
You just, you were sitting there
thinking: she's gonna drop the ball
a meter out from the line.
She's not going to be the top rank
going into the final, Janja.
She's put herself under a little bit of pressure.
and it's going to be some final this afternoon.
Yeah it's gonna be amazing, I can't wait.
In that moment in Vail,
I said to myself,
Okay, relax.
Stop the bullshit.
And just climb.
Here's Janja Garnbret.
Making very short work of this
beginning section.
Dispatched it very quickly.
I think she's just aiming for the top.
Here with baited breath.
There it is for Janja Garnbret.
She found the top
And she definitely needs to get the jump this time.
And that will be it for Fanny Gibert.
You have probably gotta stand on that.
And again, it's what gives way.
Usually she can actually stick
quite low, maybe she's just need something extra this time
Yes!
This time she finds it, Janja
She's been shaking out that right shoulder when
she's come down,
Having to work hard.
No problem up to the zone.
Gotta get that left foot to stick.
Will she find the little toe hook?
Yeah, there it is.
Tricky little move up to that crimp
she did it pretty statically.
Penultimate hold now.
Janja lining it up for the top.
And there it is for Janja
she found a top in the end.
Creeping round the corner.
Oh and that's close for Miho.
You can see her left toes slipping down.
Akiyo Noguchi
I think she's eyeing up that big long foothold.
Wants to do it,
She cannot find a way.
Now Janja Garnbret
has an awful long way to go.
So if Akiyo couldn't do it,
it must be an incredibly technical boulder.
But Janja's gone off a completely different
beta, through that first section.
If Janja can do this
she'll be the only climber leaving this boulder
with all three boulders topped.
Finds the edge.
This feels like a big moment here
in Vail.
Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nanaka
could not get it done
Fanny Gibert couldn't get it done on number 2
And Janja Garnbret
may be able to find a top on number 3
Can see there is not much for the feet.
She holds it as she steps around the corner
Janja the first climber to get this far.
Is she about to be the first climber with three tops?
And we all wanted it to happen so badly
She will leave boulder 3 in the lead.
I remember it came down to the last boulder.
It's Janja Garnbret who leads the way.
Akiyo Noguchi in second place.
What a finish we are in for in Vail.
That right hand stick.
Oh she does make it stick!
Akiyo Noguchi could be lining up for a top
There it is!
Incredible stuff from Akiyo.
The last final boulder in Vail
Janja Garnbret comes out
I wasn't thinking about anything.
Attempt number one
underway for Janja.
Up to the pocket
If she is having trouble with that left shoulder
she may get found out now
no problem crossing through.
I just put my heart on the line.
And she goes for the Akiyo method.
of getting the foot high, the right foot.
Janja Garnbret
Slapping out with the right hand and the left!
Janja Garnbret's heading for the top in Vail
I just found myself on the top.
She's headed for the history books
She's clean swept the season!
And that's when I knew that it's possible.
Janja Garnbret has won every boulder world cup in 2019.
It's never been done before.
She's been made to work for it
but everytime she finds a way.
She'd won the entire season
and I think she was crying before
she hit the mat.
Then it was like, holy shit
that just happened.
It was one of the craziest moments
in comp climbing history
And I think it's all made more amazing
byt the fact that she's cool.
When someone really awesome is succeeding
People want to see that.
It was like a five minute standing ovation
Like respect was paid.
Knowing how hard that she worked
and to see her make it happen
despite all the pressure
I felt like I wanted to cry with her
because it was just so amazing.
Janja Garnbret is going to take this sport
to places we can barely imagine
she is 20 years old.
and she is redefining
what is possible.
obviously I was going crazy on the commentary
But it really sank in about an hour later
the crowd had gone home and you're just sitting there
I've just witnessed... someone completely change
the sport that you've been doing your whole life
It's good to have something which makes you
feel alive.
Many people don't find that.
Or find it late.
But I found it at the age of 7.
People are already asking me when I will retire
And it's like, I'm 22.
How can you ask me that?
But still, I know the answer to that
When I stop having fun.