四两修改 [Visionary] 0day-sub
翻译 Arthur陈紫云 Ash 波伏瓦瓦 半斤小馄饨 刀豆
翻译 多啦么梦 VIPHD Eric instant&Anna 石碎
翻译 你是我不及的梦 善良的钢铁侠 意唯 余生相
翻译 W.H. Wendy Jessie 胖橘猫 恐高derDexRoot
校对 恐高derDexRoot
字幕Edit By远鉴字幕组 Re-Edit By 200克
总监 美少女壮士
下一位嘉宾是Free Solo天王 掌声欢迎Alex Honnold Our next guest is a free soloing phenomenon, please welcome Alex Honnold.
我有点不明白 Here is what I don't understand.
犯个小错 手脚一滑 你就会摔死 One little mistake, one little slip, and you fall and die.
呃 其实我觉得吧 你还是挺明白的 Yeah, I mean, uh, you seem to understand it well...
-当然 -没错 - Yeah. - Yeah.
我觉得吧 每个人都会死去 And I feel like anybody could conceivably die on any given day.
Free Solo只不过是让那一天来得更快而已 Soloing makes it feel far more immediate and much more present.
那不带安全绳攀岩 感觉是不是不一样? Does it feel different to be up there without a rope?
不带安全绳攀岩 就意味着后果会更严重 When you're climbing without a rope, it's obviously like
也意味着我要更加集中注意力 much higher consequence, much, much higher level of focus.
是全新的体验 You know, it's a whole different experience.
也不是说我就一直盼望 盼望 So it's not like I'm just pushing and pushing and pushing
盼望着坏事会发生 until something terrible happens.
我不这么看Free Solo I don't look at it, like, with that perspective.
也许正是如此 对我来说Free Solo才更危险吧 But maybe that's why it's dangerous for me.
也许我太爱追求极限 面对岩壁时候也不自知 Maybe I'm too close to it and I can't tell that I'm speeding towards a cliff.
好吧 Okay.
《孤身绝壁》
巴恩斯&诺贝尔书店书谈会 主持人 玛丽·安妮·波茨 嘉宾 Alex Honnold
我喜欢区别风险与后果这两个词 I like to differentiate between risk and consequence.
当我Free Solo的时候 我会去想 You know, when I'm doing these hard free solos I like to think that the risk,
我摔下峭壁的风险 几率其实很小 you know, the chance of me falling off is
摔下去的后果却十分严重 quite low even though the consequence is extremely high.
而勇于挑战艰险的攀途 却安全地达到终点 And that's kind of like one of the appeals of free soloing, you know,
那正是Free Solo的魅力之一 to take something that seems difficult and dangerous and make it feel safe.
那你认为 你的攀岩事业对于你的约会生涯造成的影响 So, do you think that, uh, being a rock climber has been a positive or negative
是积极的还是消极的? for your dating life?
约会生涯? My dating life?
对 Yeah.
总体来说是消极的吧 I think, uh, I think overall it's been a negative.
我走的太多 还住在房车里 Um, I just travel too much and I live in a car.
我们来谈谈你之前的一些攀岩经历 Let's talk through some of the climbing adventures you've had.
著名的月华拱璧之攀 The historic free solo climb, Moonlight Buttress.
我攀岩的时候 其实没怎么在意 当然 这是很有突破性的一次攀岩 When I did it, it was like, "Oh," you know, kind of groundbreaking,
也很极限 kind of extreme.
月华拱璧
锡安 犹他州 2008年
950英尺
但对我来说一直都蛮容易 蛮安全的 But for me it always felt quite easy and pretty secure.
而你并没有就此休息 你接下来挑战的是 Well, that wasn't where you stopped, because that next challenge then
徒手攀半穹Half Dome was free soloing Half Dome.
攀半穹是一次不小的胜利 因为这是我目前为止攀登过的 Half Dome was a huge step for me because it was twice as big as anything
半屏岩
优胜美地国家公园 加州 2008年
最大的岩壁 I'd ever soloed.
2000英尺
只有1%的攀岩爱好者尝试过Free Solo Free soloing is so dangerous that less than 1% of people
可见其危险 who climb attempt it.
Alex虽然已Free Solo上千次 但这一次攀岩却是最难的 Alex has done more than 1,000 free solo climbs, but none were tougher than this one.
爬到一些地方 我挺害怕的 然后就有一点点恐慌 I got quite scared in some places, and then you start to panic a little bit.
但我必须得克服恐慌 And then you have to, like, reel it all back in.
《国家地理》 从优胜美地国家公园眺望 从未有过的体验
下一次Free Solo打算挑战哪里? What is next in free solo climbing?
《户外攀者》 最大胆的攀岩者 与Alex Honnold探讨死亡 声名 与他的下一个目标
《户外》 Alex Honnold如何将疯狂 作为自己的事业
我也不清楚 我想过酋长岩 Well, I don't know, I mean, I've thought about El Cap, like,
每年都想 但是每次我看到它 心里老嘀咕 for years and every year I look at it and I'm like,
"真吓人" "That's really scary."
我甚至从没真正打算去攀酋长岩 或者说我一直都想去攀 Um, well, I've never even wanted to really, or I've always wanted to but then
但是心里又抗拒道 "太吓人了" I've always been like, "That's too scary."
我正开往地球上最美的山谷 I'm aiming towards the most beautiful valley on earth.
我还记得我是个孩子的时候就去过优胜美地国家公园 I remember coming to Yosemite as a little kid and my dad would always have a little
我老爸在后备箱里放上冰柜 然后把饼干泡在冷了的牛奶里 cooler in the back of the car, and have our cookies in the cold milk,
我们坐在隧道观景点的石板上 and we'd sit on these slabs above Tunnel View, which is, like,
看着优胜美地国家公园最壮丽的景色 the most epic view of Yosemite.
只要一看到酋长岩你就会发出"无限风光在险峰"的感叹 As soon as you see El Cap it's like, "Oh, there it is, pretty exciting."
它是自然最瑰丽的画卷 最艰险的险峰 El Cap is the most impressive wall on earth.
Free Solo
优胜美地国家公园 加州
我喜欢 我爱住在房车里 Yeah, I mean I love, I love being in the van.
而今我在房车里感到格外的舒适 I probably feel extra comfortable in the van now because I've lived
可能是因为在这里住九年了 in it for nine years.
我的第一辆房车 准确来讲是偷的家庭小货车 My first van, well, I actually stole the family minivan.
在我19岁那年 我的父亲去世了 紧接着我辍学了 My dad died when I was 19 and I, I quit school.
身上还有一些赔付的保金 There was some life insurance.
足够我当一个脏袋（Dirt Bag，一种极简攀岩和旅行的生活方式） I had just enough to dirt bag.
六年前 我住在沃尔玛停车场 每天的晚饭钱 Six years ago I was living in a Walmart parking lot and spending eighty-eight cents
只花88分 on dinner every night.
住在货车里是挺好 但是某时你会想 Living in a van is great but, you know, at a certain point it'd be nice to have a
要是能有浴室洗个澡就更好了 bathroom and have, like, a shower at least.
我听说你已经有女友了 So you have a girlfriend now, I heard.
-只是互有好感 -还没有在一起吗 - Hmm, trending towards one. - Trending towards?
她非常支持我 让我做我想做的 Hmm, I mean, she's very supportive about, like, you know, you have to do you.
是这样的 Yeah we'll, we'll see.
也许在我生命里会出现很多女朋友 But yeah, there probably will be plenty of girlfriends in my life,
但是就攀岩而言 you know, in terms of, like, big climbing,
就那些可得到的终身成就而言 我始终觉得 lifetime achievement deals, where you're just like, well,
我不会选择去谈恋爱 反而是选择攀岩 like I will always choose climbing, over, over a lady.
至少目前是这样 At least, you know, so far.
你爬过酋长岩几次了 How many times have you climbed El Cap?
可能有四十多次吧 Probably like 40 something maybe.
-你Free Solo过吗 -没有 还没人这么做过 - You ever free solo? -No and nobody has.
为什么你还不去试一下 Why haven't you done it yet?
你看看这山 呃 你想想爬它的感觉 太他妈吓人了 Um, look at it, like, I mean, you know, think about it, it's freaking scary.
我也说不准 我从2009年就开始考虑Free Solo这里了 每年都想 I don't know, so I mean I've thought about this since 2009, like, each year since 2009,
"今年就该Free Solo了" 然而每次去爬 I've been like, "This is the year," and each year I climb it and I'm like,
我就想 "今年可徒手不了 我的想法太操蛋了" "This isn't the year, like, this is fucked," you know.
我又嘀咕 "打脸了" 但关键是 我起码要努力过 So I'm like, "Uh." But the thing is I'll never be content,
否则我永远不会满足 unless I at least put in the effort.
因为 如果我做了一切努力但我仍然认为 "这是馊主意" Because, like, if I do all the work and I'm still like, "This is messed up,"
那么这项挑战可能根本不该由我来接受 让后人来吧 then maybe it's just not for me, maybe its future generation, you know.
或者让哪个不想活的人来 Or maybe just somebody who has nothing to live for.
几年前我计划攀登酋长岩的时候 在岩壁上到处标记 When I thought about El Cap years ago, there were question marks all over the walls.
好像这一段我也不清楚 那一段我又不熟悉 It's like I don't know about this pitch, I don't know about that pitch,
这块石板我又摸不清情况 遇到了好些在我 like I don't know about this particular slab, there are all these things that
看来十分疯狂的事情 seem pretty crazy to me.
如果终极目标是徒手登上酋长岩的话 我需要一条不错的路线 If the ultimate dream is to solo El Cap, then I need a good map of what that will
可以让我对哪一段不好攀 线路在哪 需要什么装备 take, you know, like a, a mental image of what the hard parts are, where they are,
形成记忆 what they will entail.
如果我要去爬 "Free RIder"似乎是最好的路线 If I'm going to do it, Free Rider seems like the best route.
Free Rider
优胜美地国家公园 加州
3200英尺
哦 嗨 Oh, hi.
最近怎么样 伙计 What's up, dude?
哦 嗨 Oh, hey.
事实上 我还不如直接把它挂在我的安全扣上 Oh, actually, I might as well just rack it straight onto my harness.
你想先锋爬“极限光板Freeblast”段 还是让我先来 So, do you wanna lead the Freeblast or do I?
我觉得我们应该像之前那样由你来领攀 I feel like we should do what we did before which would be you lead the, yeah,
职业攀岩者
汤米·卡尔德沃
你先爬极限大光板段 you lead the Freeblast.
好 我会尽力往上攀的 So, basically I'll just try to take it, like, as far as I can.
好 Yeah.
汤米刚刚加入我们 他们这就要去爬"FreeRider" So Tommy just got here and they're going up Freerider.
好的 Okay.
金Jimmy
摄影师
我打算先试着拍摄这一路段 以及横切的那一路段 I'm just gonna try to shoot this pitch and the traverse pitch and then
然后疯狂地往外拉镜头 I'm gonna jug out like a maniac.
好 Okay.
我们在那儿有足够的绳子吗 Do we have enough line up there to do all this?
-有 -好的 - Yeah. - Okay.
和Tommy Caldwell一起登顶酋长岩 The idea of going up on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell
是想切身体会这条路线 is to get a feel for the route and just visualize it.
看看哪里可怕 哪里不可怕 To see what feels scary and what doesn't.
哦 天啊 Oh, God.
看看山麓上那些架好的绳子 Look at those fixed ropes the first climb.
从小到大汤米一直是我的英雄 Tommy's been a hero of mine since I was a kid.
但也不是说我小时候真把他的海报贴在我的房间里 I didn't technically have posters of him up in my room as a kid,
但和贴海报追星一样 我当时想 "汤米才是我偶像" but it was like the same deal, you know, where I was like, "Tommy's the man."
《攀岩与攀冰》
汤米的试攀证明了自由攀登（以先锋的方式，全程不借助器械的攀爬方式，参考电影The Dawn Wall）酋长岩的可能性 Tommy really showed what was possible, free climbing on El Cap.
Free Solo者之地 汤米·卡尔德沃最新的Free Solo试攀地 是全美最高最难的岩壁
汤米探索了酋长岩的各个路段 Tommy is the one that explored every aspect of the wall.
《攀岩》
他攀爬酋长岩的大部分路段还没被别人攀爬过 就是因为 And most of the routes that he's put up on El Cap haven't been repeated because they're,
那些路段实在太难了 they're basically too hard.
纽约时报
挑战垂直的优胜美地峭壁 仅以梦想为绳
最后途径他计划多年的"黎明之墙" And then, ultimately culminated with the Dawn Wall which was his
挑战不可能 梦想要登顶
而成功登顶 multi-year project.
白宫
这可能是全球最难攀爬的一面墙 I mean possibly the hardest big wall in the world.
汤米·卡尔德沃与凯文·约格森一起征服了酋长岩 我为你们感到骄傲 你们提醒了我们有志者事竟成 ——奥巴马
《时代周刊》 现代探索者专题
多年来我一直痴迷于酋长岩 I've been obsessed with El Cap for years.
酋长岩难以置信般 不可思议地庞大 El Capitan is unbelievably huge, kind of unfathomably huge.
900多米高的纯花岗岩 It's 3,200 feet of sheer granite.
看着它的时候 你会觉得爬它是个错误的选择 Looking at it, it doesn't seem right, it doesn't seem like you
你不会登顶的 should be able to climb it.
我能理解Alex为什么这么着迷 I understand why Alex is obsessed.
酋长岩已经让几代登山者痴迷 El Cap has obsessed generations of climbers.
我想应该是沃伦·哈丁团队在1958年首次登顶了酋长岩 I think it was first climbed in 1958 by Warren Harding, and it took them 46 days
耗时十六个月 爬了四十六天 因为他们没法一直攀登 over 16 months because they couldn't do it continuously.
他们必须要在花岗岩上打入岩钉来支撑着向上爬 They had to drill bolts into the granite and pull themselves up.
从那以后 酋长岩就成为了攀岩者心中的圣地 And then ever since then, it's been the center of the rock climbing universe.
沃伦·哈丁
韦恩·梅瑞
乔治·惠特莫尔
攀岩者们说 登顶是彻底征服了 优胜美地国家公园里的"巨石"
我已花了20年的时间来攀爬酋长岩 但我绝不会Free Solo I've spent 20 years of my life climbing El Cap but I'd never do it without a rope.
没有犯错的余地 There's no margin for error.
想象一下 假如有一项奥运会级别的运动项目 Imagine an Olympic gold medal level athletic achievement, that if you don't get that
如果你得不到金牌你就会死 gold medal you're gonna die.
那么Free Solo酋长岩就是这项运动 That's pretty much what free soloing El Cap is like.
你必须做到毫无差错 You have to do it perfectly.
如今我在经历不同的情景时 Today I am playing through a lot of different scenarios,
我会思考我该怎么移动 如何调整身体姿态 so thinking about the moves, thinking about the body position,
当然我更会思考 在没有绳索保护的情况下 and more than anything just thinking about what it would feel like to,
我该怎么做 to be in that position without a rope.
如果有绳索的话 身体动起来会更轻松 There are a lot of things that you can physically do on a rope.
哦 天啊 Oh, God.
但是一旦脱离绳索保护 你就会想 But then the idea of taking the rope away, you're just like,
"我又不确定我愿不愿意相信这个小脚点了" "I don't know if I'd wanna trust that little foothold."
哦 我的天 Oh, my God,
我的脚好疼 我好紧张 手也好疼 my feet hurt so bad and I'm so pumped and my hand hurts.
我觉得好累 I just feel pooped.
我们有点提不起劲了 We're kind of getting worked.
爬酋长岩这件事我想了这么多年 When you've been thinking about something for years, that's a long time to be,
却从来没跟别人一起真正讨论过 like, sort of considering an idea without, like, really talking to anybody about it.
尤其没跟汤米讨论过 Especially someone like Tommy.
每次我爬到耐力角和横切面的时候 When I was climbing, like, up the endurance corner and across the traverse,
看着下面我就在想 "天啊 这太疯狂了" I was just looking down thinking about, I was like, "Dude, this seems so scary."
我也不知道 I don't know.
那部分暴露感非常强 但真的很美 That part is just so exposed and it's pretty.
那个部分至少有抓点 See, that part again is like, at least you have holds though, you know.
是啊 Yeah.
在极限大光板路段上有不少地方 The Freeblast slabs have like several moves where it's like,
你的命就只靠着一个脚点支撑 your whole life just depends on one foothold, you know.
Free Solo真的是一项奇怪的私人运动 Soloing is like such a weird personal activity.
你从来不会讨论攀登的计划 You never talk about soloing projects.
我至今为止所有的攀爬计划都没有提前告诉任何人 I mean, I've done all my soloing without telling anybody,
因为我不想去承受多余的压力 because I don't want any extra pressure.
比如去爬酋长岩这件事 显然在采访的时候经常问到 The idea of climbing El Cap, obviously I get interview questions about it all the
他们问 "噢 你想不想去爬?" time, like, "Oh, would you like to do that?"
我总是说 And I've always been like,
"不吧 但也有可能 再说吧 谁知道呢" "No, well maybe, we'll see. You know, who knows?"
但在我内心深处却说着 "是的 绝对要去" But like in the back of your mind you're like, "Yes, for sure."
我以前是个很挑食的人 I used to be like a super picky eater.
我奔二的时候 准确来说是在20到24岁的时候 我决定 When I was like 19 or 20 or, well, between like, 20 and 24, I basically decided that I had
开始吃蔬菜了 然后开始系统地去接受蔬菜 to start eating vegetables, and then sort of, like, systematically introduced
一步一个脚印 挺成功的 myself to vegetables, like one at a time, which worked pretty well,
我现在几乎什么都能吃了 now I pretty much eat anything.
三四年前我就开始不吃肉了 I stopped eating meat maybe three or four years ago, um,
主要是环境的原因 mostly for environmental reasons.
慢慢的就变成习惯了 Then once I stopped I also kind of got into the ethics of it a little bit more.
看下这个菜最后会做成啥样 We'll just see how this comes out.
也许很多人看了会觉得 唔 太糟糕了 Yeah, I mean there are plenty of folks who probably think that this is, like, terrible.
我吃着罐装辣椒食品和鸡蛋 I'm eating, like, canned chili and eggs.
从小到大我都不喜欢吃奇怪的食物 Growing up, I mean, I didn't like eating weird foods,
也不喜欢昆虫 我完全就是个怪人 I didn't like bugs, you know, I was just like a total tweeker.
非常害羞 I guess I was quite a shy child.
灵魂有一点点黑暗 Bit of a dark soul, I think.
可能用忧郁来形容更贴切 Maybe melancholic is the word.
那时我非常喜欢玩乐高积木和电脑游戏 I remember really liking to play with my Legos and play computer games and,
开始攀岩之后 大部分时间 uh, and then obviously once I started rock climbing I was going to the
我都会去攀岩馆 climbing gym all the time.
我的确没有什么广泛的兴趣爱好 But I didn't really have a whole lot of hobbies or interests.
绝对不是那种酷酷的人 I definitely wasn't cool, you know.
我在萨克拉曼多长大 我上的高中有 I grew up in Sacramento and the high school I went to, I was, uh,
国际文凭项目 所以我们都是所谓的 in an international baccalaureate program, so we were all sort of
高智商的小孩 the intellectual kids.
所以怎么说呢 当个不谙世事的孤僻小孩也没什么大不了的 So, in a way it was fine to be sort of a dorky loner cause, you know,
毕竟都是整天学习的错 the whole program was focused around that.
刚开始更多地去室外攀爬的时候 There was definitely a time when I started climbing outside more and I was just
我会搭车去露营地 starting to road trip and go to campgrounds,
但我很害怕和陌生人说话 but I was too afraid to talk to strangers.
所以很多时候我都是一个人去爬 So, I was doing a lot of soloing, or just a lot of climbing by myself just
因为我谁也不认识 也不想和任何人说话 because I didn't know anybody and I didn't wanna talk to anybody.
太他妈好吃了 做得最好的一次 It's freaking good, I've outdone myself.
加了辣椒就是不一样 Spicy chili really adds something.
小时候我就很爱爬树爬楼 As a kid I just love climbing trees and climbing buildings and, like,
四处玩耍摸索 playing on things.
上学后我几乎爬遍了所有的屋顶和周围的楼房 And when I was going to school here I was also climbing on all the roofs and stuff here.
还有 唔 对 Uh, and, uh, yeah.
我其实很害怕对着一群人说话 It's actually kind of intimidating talking to groups of kids.
高中的时候 站在全班同学面前 Like, when I was in high school I was mortified of standing in
我会觉得很羞愧 front of the class.
度过了那个阶段之后 慢慢的 But, like, you kind of get through it and, like, eventually you feel
也就习惯了 more and more comfortable.
我也不知道 I don't know.
-有个问题 -说 - There's a question. - Um, yeah.
把兴趣爱好当作事业而出名这事 How do you feel about being famous, just for, like,
您怎么看待啊 turning your hobby into your career?
我觉得能把自己最爱做的事情变成 I mean, I think it's the best thing in life to be able to take the one thing
能够糊口谋生的手段 是再好不过的事情了 you love most and have it, like, work out that you can make a living that way.
攀个岩能拿到报酬 谁不开心啊 You know, so it's nice that I now get paid to do that, yeah.
您现在有多少存款 How much money do you have?
我有 我有 钱包里大概有40美金吧 I've got, I've got, I've got probably like 40 bucks in my wallet, you know.
唔 开玩笑的啦 我觉得不多不少吧 Um, but no, like, a, a fair amount.
相当于一个成功的牙医赚的钱吧 Um, like, like, you know, say, like, a moderately successful dentist
大概差不多 or something, probably.
K先生 Mr. K?
Alex 你能谈一谈你的基金会 还有你正在做什么吗 Alex, could you talk about your foundation a bit and what you're doing?
是的 四年前我成立了一家非营利性的基金会 Yeah, so, I started a non-profit, um, I guess maybe four years ago.
让我们来看看这个视频 你们可以感受一下 Let's watch this piece of video so you're gonna get a little taste of that.
攀岩让我有机会环游世界 大开眼界 Climbing has allowed me to travel all over the world, which has really opened my
看到了其他地方的人如何生活 eyes to how the rest of the world lives.
我要讲的是 我亲眼见证了 在地球上大约有十亿人 I mean, I see all these people, I mean they're like a billion people on Earth
没法使用电力 without access to power.
所以为了给这世界做点贡献 And so I started my foundation sort of as an attempt to, like,
我建立了这个基金会 balance the cosmic scales.
我把我每年三分之一的收入 So, I've been giving, maybe, like, a third of my income every year through the
通过基金会汇到非营利环境保护组织 foundation to, like, environmental non-profits.
帮助建设比如离线型太阳能工程之类的 I mean, so, like off-grid solar projects, things like that, like,
可以帮人们脱离贫困且对地球有利的项目 things that lift people out of poverty, but also help the Earth.
啊 你下车了 Ah, you get out.
-噢 嗨 -嗨 - Oh, hi. - Hi.
我在西雅图的签售会上邂逅了Sunny I met Sanni, book touring in Seattle.
然后从那时起我们就一直在一起 And then we just have been hanging out ever since.
我想 这是我们在拉斯维加斯的第一次约会 我们 I think, I think this is our very first date in Las Vegas, and I think we're climbing,
一起爬了一些简单的多段路线 like, a very easy multi-pitch together.
我把她带到一条很高的登山路线上 Um, you know I just took her up this big tall route because then,
因为我知道这样她会很开心呢 I kind of knew it would blow her mind.
她是专业的攀登者吗 Is she a climber?
Sunny只能算是业余的攀登者 Um, Sanni's like a little bit of a climber.
她才刚开始接触这个 我不能把她归入专业攀登者之列 She, she's just starting but I'd hardly characterize her as a climber.
你看到我们正前方了吗 岩壁上那个像一颗心的坑 You see straight in front of us, there's like an depression that looks like a heart.
恩 Yeah.
在那的左边是"FreeRider" To the left of that, that's Freerider.
这是整个山谷 我们正在这条公路上行驶 This is like the whole valley, like, we're driving in this highway.
然后是这个 山谷的环路从这里到这里 And then this is, like, the valley loop from here to here,
在这里和这里之间 就是岩壁 the main rocks are all, like, between here and here.
噢 我也许该读这个 Okay, oh, maybe I should read this.
不要 No.
去年12月Alex在西雅图有一个书谈会 Alex was giving a talk in Seattle, in December last year.
我对他一无所知 但我还是去听了 I didn't know anything about him and I showed up.
等下 在这些照片中有一半你都穿同样的T恤 Wait, you're wearing the same shirt in half these photos.
我知道 I know.
噢 Alex Oh, Alex.
因为我不认识可以帮我挑选衣服的人 Well, because I don't have anybody to help me with my wardrobe.
噢 然后 我让他给我的书签名 然后给了他我的电话号码 Oh and then, when I got my book signed, I gave him my number.
桑妮·麦克坎德斯
一开始只是朋友间闹着玩 后来关系就发展了 Which was sort of a joke with a friend but then evolved.
我觉得他非常可爱但又十分真诚 I just thought he was really cute but also brutally honest,
那时我真的非常着迷这一点 but I'm really drawn to that.
喔 你看 这树干会漂浮诶 Whoa, look how precariously balanced it is.
他还是一个很有趣的家伙 他有点怪 But he's also just a funny guy, he's weird.
你知道的 他就一个怪人 我觉着这很有趣 You know, a weird dude, and I find it interesting.
噢 我们要在树上做瑜伽吗 Oh, we tree pose on the tree?
它都没有摇晃 It's not wobbling.
怎么可能 它完全在那晃呀 It's totally wobbling, what are you talking about.
就为你做个树姿 [瑜伽的一种姿态] Just for you.
我等着的 好了 I'm waiting. Okay.
蚊子开始咬你的时候 When you start getting eaten by mosquitoes,
你就可以开始爬了 feel free to just start climbing.
要带着保护器噢 Just keep the Grigri on.
我就要待着 I'll wait.
好吧 做你想做的 Okay, whatever you're comfy with.
房车生活能有女朋友是很赞的 Having the girlfriend in the van is awesome.
我意思是 她很可爱小巧 让这个地方更有生气 I mean, she's cute and small and, like, livens the place up a bit,
也不会太占空间 doesn't take up too much room.
让我的生活从各方面变好了许多 I mean, it's, pretty much makes life better in every way.
Alex 你收紧绳子了吗 Alex, you got me tight?
这个真考验人 This is nerve-racking.
我的位置在Alex的下面 看到他下降到最后一节的时候 When I was lowering Alex, I was watching him come down the final section and the rope
绳索从我的手里滑过 脱出了保护器 went right through the Grigri, right through my hands,
然后他摔在了地上 and right through the Grigri and he dropped to the ground.
是我的错 我没有注意我这一头的绳索 It was my fault that I didn't watch the end of the rope.
当时我心里想 "天啊 我闯了什么祸" It was just like, "Oh, my gosh, what have I done?"
X光看不出来什么 但是后来用了分层造影 The x-ray didn't show much, but then they took the CAT scan and then they
查出来有两处压缩性骨折 said it was, like, two compression fractures and.
但是他们只看了 他们没有关注低位的 But they only focused on... they didn't focus on the lower.
在这些发生之后 我想和她分手 Right after it happened I wanted to break up with her.
我说 "啊 这对我的攀岩没好处" 但她反问道 I was like, "Oh, this is bad for my climbing." But she said,
"但这真的对你的生活就有好处了吗" "Is that really gonna make your life any better?"
我说 "不 可能不会" I was like, "No, probably not."
这会有点不舒服 This is gonna feel a little uncomfortable.
我说 I said, you know,
"我觉得我们可以度过这一关 你可以爱情事业都兼顾上 "I think we can move past this and I think you could have it all.
我想你可以有一个稳定的女朋友 同时也去攀岩" I think that you could have a steady girlfriend and climb."
吐气 Exhale.
结果骨折并不是特别严重 As it turns out, compression fracture isn't too serious.
他们说只要我注意疼痛管理之类的事项 They said that I could climb and just be careful about pain management and
我可以继续攀岩 all that stuff.
但这的确有点烦心 But it's just a little bit rattling.
因为我确实知道一些从高处摔下来但没有死的人 Because I definitely know some people who have fallen super far and survived or,
落到树上再落到地上 也无大碍 like, gone through a tree and sort of been okay.
可是我现在想 "我可不知道 我不知道我有没有事" And now I'm like, "I don't know, like, I don't think I'd be okay."
所以我想象自己Free Solo的时候摔下来 And so I imagine falling free soloing or
或者从超过50米高的地方摔下来 something from 50 meters up, I mean,
我知道当我落地的时候我的肉身就爆裂开了 I realize that my body would just explode on impact.
2016年 夏天
2012年的时候我第一次来这里 In 2012, I was here for the first time and it was right before I went to
紧接着我来到优胜美地过夏天 算是去那的最好的季节 Yosemite for the season, and that was like my best Yosemite season ever.
Alex 你刚刚说啥 What was that, Alex?
我说你刚爬了一半 然后绳子 I said you just passed halfway and, uh, the rope's actually looking
还有好长一截 pretty good now.
是的 这岩壁好爬 Yeah, pretty nice rock.
我认为在摩洛哥这边攀岩 也算是为攀酋长岩的锻炼 I think the climbing here in Morocco, it's good training for El Cap.
可以让他更强壮一些 会让他在El Cap爬的更好 It's gonna make him strong, it's gonna get him good at moving through the mountains,
让他更适应一些 it's gonna make him feel fit.
和Alex一起攀岩会上瘾 Flowing through the mountains in the ways that you do with Alex is addicting.
他对于危险的态度会让人觉得他是不可战胜的 His attitude towards risk, it makes you feel kind of invincible,
这确实很有感染力 但是我觉得这并不明智 which is emotionally appealing, but for me I don't think it's the smartest thing.
啊 Ah!
和Alex一起攀岩有点像是一种恶习 Climbing with Alex is, it's like a vice in a way.
就好像在抽烟的时候忍不住喝酒 It's like smoking cigarettes with beer or something.
我并不真的想去和他攀 但因为这样也还不错 It's like, I don't really wanna do it but I just, like, let myself do it sometimes
我就会偶尔去跟他攀 because it's kinda nice.
-嘿 伙计 -嘿 - Yeah, buddy! - Yo!
能给我读一下你今天的日记吗 Can you read me your journal entry for today?
"贝伊墙难度7C+/5.13A 差点掉落一次 两次肌肉胀痛 需要继续锻炼" It says, "Bey wall 7C+, one fallen crux, two pumped, need more fitness."
你写过类似于"见识到了见过的最高的桧树"这样的话吗 Do you ever put things like "Saw the biggest juniper tree of my life"?
没有 不会写在攀岩日记里 No, not in the climbing journal.
-想念我的狗 -不会这样写 - Miss my dog. - No.
-想念我的母亲 -不确定 没写过吧 - And my mom. - I don't know, none?
-没有吗 -好吧 - No, no. -All right.
Jimmy会跟着你们走到半路 Alright, Jim's gonna follow you guys down partway, Clair's gonna pick you guys up at
金Jimmy
摄影师
克莱尔会在通往营地的水沟那接你们 the bottom of the gully going into the base.
没问题 Okay.
然后我们会在墙上拍摄 And then we'll be shooting on the wall.
所以 当我们超过你们的时候 你们就收拾好然后去山顶吗 So, once we pass you guys, you guys wrap and then hike to the summit basically?
是的 Yeah.
我和Jimmy合作了十年之久 Jimmy and I have worked together for 10 years.
我们爬过世界各地 We've climbed all over the world.
我们也是在开"三方会谈"吗 We are doing the triple link up too, right?
我是说 当我们去优胜美地国家公园的时候 I mean, by the time we get to Yosemite we're gonna be
我们就像沙恩说的"三方会晤"了 as Cheyne says, "Yoked."
Jimmy的拍摄队伍里都是职业攀岩者 The team that Jimmy assembled are all professional climbers.
是拍摄攀爬酋长岩最好的队伍了 The best possible crew for this kind of thing.
所以 这真是太棒了 你知道吗 And so in a way, I'm like, "This is kinda awesome." You know,
这就像 我是在和朋友们一起去爬山一样 it's kind of just like I get to go climb with all my friends.
麦克 我们要让谁守在这个地方 这样如果探出身子 Mikey, we should put someone right here because if you lean out you can see the
就能看到整个路线了 entire freaking route.
那我们就把100英尺标尺放在那儿 400的标尺放在这儿 Then let's just put the 100 meter there and the 400 footer here.
一尺两用嘛 Doubled up.
Alex08或09年最开始爬优胜美地国家公园时 我就认识他了 I've known Alex since he pretty much started climbing in Yosemite, 2008 or 2009.
我拍过几次Alex Free Solo I've filmed Alex a handful of times, free soloing.
我们还一起在南美洲度过了几个冬天 And then we've also spent a couple of winters together down in South America.
麦克·谢弗
职业攀岩者/摄影师
所以我们在一起的时间就很多了 So, uh, we, the time's added up.
嗯 我现在也经常和他在一起 Uh, I spend a lot of time with him now.
我不想看到Alex出事 所以我很害怕 So, I'm scared because I don't wanna see anything happen to Alex.
这也是我差点拒绝这份工作的原因之一 I mean, it's one of the reasons that I almost said no to this job, and, I mean,
我认为Jimmy也有过同样的经历 I think Jimmy went through the same stuff of being like,
类似心想"我们真的要参与拍摄吗" "Do we really wanna be part of this?"
拍摄一部关于Free Solo的电影 我一直觉得很矛盾 I've always been conflicted about shooting a film about free soloing
就是因为太危险了 just because it's so dangerous.
很难不去想 你的好友Alex 在极度危险的 It's hard to not imagine, your friend, Alex, soloing something that's extremely
情况下攀岩时 你在拍摄他 因此他压力过大 dangerous and you're making a film about it, which might put undue pressure on him
你的镜头活生生记录了他死去的过程 to do something, and him falling through the frame to his death.
我们必须要克服这一切 而且要明白即使发生了最坏的事情 And we have to work through that and understand that what we're doing is something that
我们也能心安理得地去拍摄 we can live with even in a worst-case scenario.
有趣的是 浅显了解攀岩的人 他们会认为 It's a funny thing, people who know a little bit about climbing, they're like,
"哦 他说他可以的 他很安全" "Oh, he says he has it, he's, he's totally safe."
但那些真正知道他在做什么的人其实都吓坏了 And then people who really know exactly what he's doing are freaked out.
我父亲总是会说 "我希望你不要去攀冰 My dad was always like, "I don't want you to go ice climbing.
我希望你不要去Free Solo" I don't want you to free solo," you know.
等等 我想知道你父亲有没有经历过那样的事 Just not, I wonder if your dad had been like.
他在我这个年纪的时候 有二三十个朋友 When he was my age, he had had like 20 or 30 friends that had
死在山上 died in the mountains.
而现在 我也是一样的 你知道吗 有三四十个朋友 And now I'm at that point where I've had, you know, 30 or 40 friends
死于山涧 that have died in the mountains.
这么多啊 That many?
是的 我刚刚算的 Yeah, I counted them a while ago.
也不算是朋友 就是身边的人 I mean, like not friends but people in our community.
比如最近出事的有 凯尔·邓普斯特和斯科特 Yeah, people, yeah, yeah, totally, like Kyle Dempster and Scott recently.
凯尔和斯科特于2016失踪于Ogre 2峰
这些死掉的人里面 还没有我特别亲近的 I haven't had anybody die who I was, like, really, really, close to yet.
呃 呃 我也不好说 Uh-hmm. Uh-hmm. I don't know.
我觉得 凡是将Free Solo视为生命里不可或缺之事的人 I think everybody who has made free soloing a big part of their life,
现在都已经死掉了 is dead now.
约翰·贝克是所谓的"Free Solo"先驱 John Bachar was a pioneer of so-called free solo climbing,
约翰·贝克（阿汤哥碟中谍 替身） 1957-2009
上周他从悬崖坠落死亡 终年52岁 he fell to his death this past week at the age of 52 from a cliff.
肖恩·莱瑞 1975-2014
我们十分惋惜地向您报道 And we're sorry to have to report on the death of
美国攀岩者肖恩·莱瑞的死讯 U.S. Climber Sean Leary.
肖恩死于犹他州 几天前发现了他的尸体 Sean was killed in Utah and was found a couple of days ago.
德瑞克·赫希当时在优胜美地谷攀岩 Derek Hersey was climbing in Yosemite Valley.
周六早晨发现了他的尸体 His body was found Saturday morning.
德瑞克·赫希 1956-1993
赫希当时和往常一样 独自攀岩 没有保护绳索 Hersey climbed, as usual, alone without ropes.
大多数挑战极限的人 Most people that are pushing the limits,
他们都有这样的心态 "管他的 该来的总会来" they have this mentality of "Screw it, whatever happens, happens."
丹·奥斯曼 1963-1998
迪恩·波特（极限运动大师，死于翼装飞行）
我觉得他做的所有的Free Solo都锻炼了他的心理 I think all the soloing he's done has trained his mind.
他不会像很多人那样 情绪因此受到影响 He doesn't get emotionally affected by it the way that a lot of people do.
而不懂其中道理的人会说 这也许源于你的经历 And not knowing about the science of that is that's probably a product
而非基因里天生就有的 of your past more than it is just a genetic thing.
有很多猜想是关于 我如何应付恐惧 还有 There's been a lot of speculation about, like, how I deal with fear and,
我如何Free Solo like, how I'm able to free solo.
人们就会说 "他就是个爱找刺激的人 People are just like, "Oh, well, he must be a thrill seeker.
他肯定有啥缺陷" There must be something defective."
所以 当有个作家联系我 要我做个核磁共振 So when a writer contacted me about doing an
我就想 可以搞啊 做个核磁共振也不赖 MRI, I thought it's kind of cool just to go and get an MRI and, like,
还可以看看到底怎么回事儿 see what's actually going on.
就是扫描下大脑 看看缺不缺啥零件儿 You know, scan your brain and then see if it's all there structurally.
核磁共振室
我们即将开始检查 We're gonna start the task now.
请记得 每次看到一副新的图片出现后 就按按钮 明白吗 Remember to press the button every time you see a new picture come up, okay?
明白 Okay.
我们拭目以待 也许我还真是个变态物种啥的呢 We'll see maybe it turns out I'm some kind of freak creature or something.
我有几任前女友都说 I've had several ex-girlfriends said that I have personality
我有人格障碍之类的 disorders or things like that.
说我有点啥毛病 That there's something wrong with me.
是否情绪稳定 Emotionally stable?
是 Agree.
是否善于创新和深思 Ingenious, a deep thinker?
否 Disagree.
是否喜欢挑剔别人 Tends to find fault with others?
可能是 Agree somewhat.
攀爬垂直岩壁是否对我太过可怕 Climbing a steep mountain would be too scary for me?
我是否控制不好冲动 I have trouble controlling my impulses?
是否压抑 Is depressed?
呵 Hmm.
那个 我的大脑是完整的吗 Is my, is my brain intact?
你的大脑结构完整 还有 特别有意思的是 Your brain's intact and it's, it's quite interesting.
屏幕上最突出的那两点 Those little two dots that are further towards the top of the screen,
代表的是大脑杏仁核 that's the amygdala.
杏仁核
Alex
正常人
大脑的恐惧情感中心
所以 就有了一件有意思的事儿 你的杏仁核是完全没有反应吗 So an interesting thing, do you have no activation in your amygdala?
看起来 我的大脑里没起什么波澜 There's just not much going on in my brain, it seems.
那个 你是不是觉得 我的杏仁核坏了还是怎样 Um, do you think my amygdala actually just doesn't work or something?
你的杏仁核没有坏 只不过需要更高程度的刺激而已 Your amygdala works, it's just that it needs a much higher level of stimulation.
对我们大多数其他人普遍有效的刺激 Things that are typically stimulating for most of the rest of us are
对你没什么用 not really doing it for you.
也许我的杏仁核只是累了 你懂的 Maybe my amygdala's just tired, you know,
因为常年处于受惊状态 from too many years of being all gripped.
2016年 秋天
酋长岩
优胜美地国家公园 加州
第六段
极限平面
我感觉自己特别健康 但是呢 Free Solo需要相当强的心理素质 I'm feeling quite fit, but, um, there's such a mental component to free soloing.
一个很大的挑战就是要控制好心理 The big challenge is controlling your mind, I guess.
因为你不是在控制你的恐惧 Because you're not, you're not controlling your fear, you're sort of just trying
你只是在努力脱离恐惧 to step outside of it.
啊 不会吧 抱歉 Alex Oh, no, woo, sorry, Alex!
我想说 人们都在说要努力克制自身的恐惧 And when people talk about trying to suppress your fear, I mean,
而我从另一个角度看待这个问题 I look at it in a different way.
我通过不断地反复练习动作 来拓展我的舒适区 I try to expand my comfort zone by practicing the moves over and over again.
我会尽力消除恐惧 直到感觉不到恐惧 I work through the fear, until it's just not scary anymore.
啊 不要不要不要 Oh, no, no, no, no.
啊 好滑 Oh, so slippery.
但是 好多年来 "极限大光板"这路段都会让我神经紧张 But, um, for years Freeblast has given me the heebie-jeebies.
你时刻都站在微凸的边沿上 也就是岩石质地发生细微改变的地方 You're standing on tiny edges, small variations in the texture of the rock.
如果你滑倒了 你的手点撑不住你 If you slip, your hands can't hold you.
只是这两个小小的脚点支撑着你不掉下去 It's just the two tiny points of contact that keep you from falling, and
而当你向上爬时 就只剩下一个支撑点了 when you step up, there's only one.
啊 Oh.
看起来比昨天好多了 让我们来看看 It's like, it looks so much better today than yesterday, but we'll see.
我从大概九米多高的地方摔了下来 I probably fell about 30 feet.
我们绑紧了安全绳 Sunny正在帮我保护 然后我就摔了下去 We're up there, we're roped up, Sanni's belaying me, and then I just fell off,
不知道怎么回事 I don't know.
不知道怎么回事 我就这么摔下去了 I just, I don't even know how, I just, like, fell off.
让我看看你可以上下动多少 Show me how much you can go up and down on your own.
大概能动这么多 It's, it's like, you know.
我觉得这应该只是踝关节扭伤 I think this looks to me just like your straightforward ankle sprain.
好的 Okay.
我们说是踝关节扭伤 但实际上意思就是 So, you know, we say ankle sprain, but more or less an ankle sprain
韧带拉伤 is torn ligaments.
-是的 -就是这样 - Yeah. - That's what it is.
所以这对攀岩之类的事有什么影响啊 ...So what does that mean in terms of, uh, like hiking and stuff?
我是想问 如果我把韧带固定好 还可以去攀岩吗 I mean, if I just, like, immobilize it and then, uh, still just hike.
可以 当然还要过几天 Yeah, I mean, you gotta' get yourself through the first few days.
好的 Yeah.
但之后就只要注意慢慢让韧带康复了 Um, but after that and it's just strengthening and rehab.
那么 那些运动会不会让情况变得更糟 Well, and actually, can I make it worse really, through activity?
如果你短时间内动得太多的话 有可能 Um, you could probably do too much too soon.
等下 你可以把绳拉到我的左边 Wait, you don't need to keep that right.
虽然我心里非常担心 I can worry as much as I want internally,
但如果就此放弃 他会后悔的 but if he doesn't do this stuff he'd regret it.
如果我和Alex结了婚而且有了孩子 我会更愿意去跟他说 If Alex and I got married and had kids, I would feel a lot more willing to say
我能不能接受这么大的风险 what I thought about what was acceptable risk or not.
他应该穿自己的鞋的 He should have put his shoe on.
-固执 -太固执了 - Stubborn. - Stubborn.
你都在走路了 我还以为你快好了 I thought you were, you know, walking and stuff now, I thought you're fine.
我是好了 怎么 Oh, I am, but what.
医生说了你应该给韧带加加压 Alex 拜托 Doctors said you were supposed to push it, Alex, come on.
你想要吃西瓜吗 Don't you want some watermelon?
幸好你有个私佣帮你切西瓜 Oh, well, good thing you have a personal slave to do that for you.
我知道 我也很高兴 Uh-huh, I know, I'm pretty stoked about that.
现在是不是不管我怎么切这个西瓜 你都要说 All right, um, is it gonna be that no matter how I do this, you're like,
"你为什么要这么切?" "Why did you do it that way?"
我只是想吃西瓜 I just want watermelon.
我有点想要把受伤怪到桑妮头上 I kind of wanted to blame Sanni to some extent because
心想"随她去吧" you're just like, "Whatever."
我在七年间都没有受过伤 I haven't been injured in, like, seven years and then it's like I'm
但我和这个不会攀岩的女孩在一起之后 我就开始 hanging out with this girl that doesn't climb and I suddenly start getting
不断受伤 injured all the time.
你像砍一棵树一样 It's like you just cut down a tree.
当医生说要进行"主动性康复"的时候 可不是让你 When they say "active recovery," no, that doesn't mean you're walking
到处走 all over the place.
如果他没有选择Free Solo 我会很开心 I would be happy if he didn't free solo.
Alex Honnold 大卫·罗伯茨合著 《单人Free Solo完整指南》
我总是很感激他在Free Solo或其他事之前 I've always appreciated that he never told me beforehand that he was gonna
《2016北美攀岩界事故》
不会先告诉我 free solo or anything.
不然我就会斥责他说"你不应该干这个" I could come down on him and say, "You shouldn't be doing that,"
狄尔卓·沃罗妮克
Alex的母亲
而这就会让我们变得疏远 and alienate him, and, uh, it would've alienated
因为这就是他的生活 him because that's his, uh, whole life.
我觉得在Free Solo时 他最能感受到生命的活力 I think when he's free soloing, that's when he feels the most alive,
也是他能感受到最多的东西 the most everything, the most.
感触最多的时候 Feels the most.
而你怎么能从一个人那里夺走这样东西呢 And how can you even think about taking that away from somebody, you know?
我不行 I wouldn't.
受伤后三周
如果穿好鞋系好保护绳 我就可以单脚支撑身体了 I've been able to stand on one foot while I put my harness and my shoes and
这是个小胜利 stuff on, and getting' this like kind of, a minor victory.
受伤后我还没穿上过我的登山鞋 Um, I haven't put on my climbing shoe basically since I did it.
还肿着 一碰就疼 So swollen. So tender.
不幸的是 裂隙攀岩都要靠脚踝支撑 Unfortunately, crack climbing is all ankle-dependent.
而"Free Rider"是900多米的裂缝攀登 And Freerider is 3,000 feet of crack climbing.
所有有过严重脚踝扭伤的朋友 都说 All my friends that have sprained their ankles in serious ways have
"噢 这至少要6个月才能好" all been like, "Oh, it's gonna be at least six months until it's normal."
但如果我不能在下个月完成 If I can't get this done in the next month
就会开始变天 我就得等明年了 then the weather will change and I'll have to wait until next year.
几年前 我记得他告诉过我 他从来没有 You know, a couple years ago, I remember him telling me that he had never
意外摔伤过 而现在就在过去的一个月时间里 fallen unexpectedly in his life, and now I've seen it happen twice
他已经摔了两次了 in the past, like, month.
而你听到这种事的时候 你就开始有点胡思乱想 But when you hear stuff like that, you start to wonder a little bit.
他给我打电话的前一天晚上 我做了这个梦 I had this dream the night before he called me that he had, like,
梦里面他进了我们的房子 问候了我们 然后开始大哭 wandered into our house and asked us, and, like, started crying,
这吓了我一跳 因为Alex从没哭过 which really freaked me out 'cause Alex doesn't cry.
然后他说在Free Solo的时候摔了下来 And then he had told me that he fell free soloing and started, like,
然后他开始给我们看他的伤口 梦中他把袖子拉起来 revealing all of his injuries, like he pulled up his sleeve on his arm,
然后一根骨头就从胳膊上掉了下来 看上去非常可怕 and in my dream a bone just, like, fell out of his arm and it was all messed up.
就像是那种你记得很清晰 但又很怪异的梦 And that, and it was this really, like, kind of vivid, but super freaky dream.
第二天他就打电话告诉我说他受伤了 And, uh, and then the next day he called me and told me he hurt himself.
你好 英格丽德 Hi, hi, Ingrid.
嗨 嗨 做得怎么样了 Hi, hello, how's it going?
-大家好啊 -你好啊 菲茨 - Hi, guys. -What's up, Fitz!
-嗨 汤米 菲茨 -你们是打算雕南瓜灯嘛 - Hi, Tommy, hi, Fitz! - Are you gonna carve a pumpkin?
漂亮 做的不错 Nice, that's good.
这个看起来坏了 That seems off.
Alex说 "我讨厌做南瓜灯 Alex said, "I want nothing to do with the pumpkin carving,
也不想雕其它东西 更讨厌过节日" and I won't carve anything and I hate holidays."
我喜欢及时行乐 I like having fun when I have fun.
但不喜欢别人告诉我该找乐子了 I don't like being told that it's time to have fun.
是的 我也觉得是这样 Yeah, I think we need to a little more.
哇哦 他在闹腾 Whoa, she's squirming.
不知道 你有抱稳嘛 I don't know. Do you have a good grip on there?
你再把那个放进我眼睛的话 我就把你放下来了 You put that in my eye again, I'm gonna drop you.
为什么它不想见我们 Why does it not want to see us?
老兄 你应该更谨慎一些 Oh man, you should have a lot of fear right now.
好的 我现在已经很焦虑了 Okay, 'cause' I feel a lot of anxiety.
在我性格成型的关键时期 家人没有拥抱过我 No one in any part of my family has hugged during all my formative years.
在23岁左右 我得自己学着去拥抱 I had to teach myself how to hug when I was, like, 23 or something.
因为我当时想 "大家都在拥抱 'Cause I was like, "Everyone seems to hug,
我似乎也应该这么做" that seems like something I should get into,"
然后我就开始练习 and then I started, like, practicing.
现在我已经懂怎么拥抱了 Now I'm quite a good hugger.
好 Yes.
你看出那个南瓜像货车了嘛 You see that the pumpkin is a van?
我看出来了 那是辆不错的卡车 I did see it. That's a precious van.
-这是只猫嘛 -是我做的 - Is it a cat? - I did the cat.
-那看起来不错 -看那边 -That's good. - Look at that.
这是我一个人做的 Um, I did it all by my.
讲真 它看起来和这个很像 Honestly, it does look good like this.
看起来很差劲 It looked terrible.
爱的一部分表现就是要说出"爱"这个字 Part of the thing with the L word, you know, is saying love and stuff,
但我的一生中家人从来没有说过这个字 is that, like, in my entire life no one in any part of my family has ever used,
"爱"这个字 you know, that word.
我妈对我们姐弟俩只说法语 My Mom has only spoken French to my sister and I our whole lives.
她是法语老师 所以她会用法语说"我爱你" She's a French teacher, so she says, "Je t'aime" or whatever,
这种时候我爸却会沉默以对 and then my dad didn't talk about anything.
没人能与查理建立感情联系 Nobody had an emotional bond with Charlie.
查理很可能是我们如今说的自闭症患者 Charlie was probably what we call nowadays Asperger's.
查理很痴 也许大家称之为"偏执" Charlie's obsession, what everyone called monomania.
旅行 He loved to travel.
他活着就是为了旅行 就好像Alex活着就是为了攀岩 He lived to travel like Alex lives to climb.
他没有在旅行的时候 状态就不对 When he wasn't traveling, things were not good.
我们会因为Alex做的一些事情损他 Alex would do something and we'd call him stupid names,
说"嗨 傻子 别那样做" 这样贬低的话 "Hey, bozo, don't do it like that," just demeaning things.
当你还小的时候 有人这么说你 If you learn that about your self-worth when you're this big,
我觉得这会一直影响下去 I don't think that goes away.
我不记得这些事了 I have no recollection of that.
我觉得我爸没有给别人带来负面情绪 I don't think my dad put down anybody.
他很像泰迪熊 但是有些忧郁 I think my dad is like a teddy bear, but dad was pretty morose.
那次他们离婚之后 他俩 And then the thing is once they got divorced, then they both were, like,
看起来都很开心 一切都很顺利 不过第二年夏天他就过世了 so much happier and it all seemed great, but he died the next summer.
很遗憾他没能看到我的成就 It's really kind of too bad that he doesn't get to see how it all played out,
因为他在培养我攀岩上付出很大心血 'cause he put so much effort into nurturing my climbing.
但谁知道呢 But who knows?
可能妈妈觉得他在拖后腿 Maybe mom thought that he was, like, holding us back or, like, you know,
而不是激励我们发挥全部的潜力 not pushing us to achieve our full potential or, like, whatever,
你知道我的意思吧 you know what I mean?
妈妈最喜欢的谚语是 "几乎做到不算做到" My Mom's favorite sayings are, "Presque ne compte pas,"
也就是"没有足够好"的意思 "Almost doesn't count," or, uh, "Good enough isn't."
不管我做得多好 都没那么好 No matter how well I ever do at anything, it's not that good.
攀岩巨星 ["Rock"有"巨石"也有"摇滚"的意思]
《户外探险》 新年快乐 Alex Honnold
《攀岩》
纽约时报杂志-旅行篇
无止境的自我厌恶 The bottomless pit of self-loathing.
我是说 这确实是Free Solo的一个动力 I mean, that's definitely the motivation for some soloing.
我们到了 Here we are.
我还是 So I still never, like, quietly,
不是很清楚你为什么摔下来了 quite understand what happened when you fell, you,
你知道吗 like, do you even know?
应该知道点什么吧 It should be just kinda, like.
呃 我不知道我为什么会掉下来 我知道我的皮肤当时 Uh, I don't know why I fell off, but I mean I know that my skin was,
粗糙干燥 like, hard and dry.
当时有点小雨 而且风很大 It was like lightly raining kind of and like really windy.
很奇怪他自己都不承认自己知道真相 Weird he doesn't even say he knows what happened.
他总说 "我是突然失足" 我有点不相信 He's like, "I, suddenly I was falling," which kind of surprised me because I feel
因为他一直都很谨慎 like he's always so aware.
不过可能他也没有那么谨慎吧 Or like maybe he's not always totally aware.
Alex说起他会带上装备再去攀岩 You know Alex talks about having this armor when he solos and I think as, like,
我觉得身为他的朋友也好 家人也好 你也要有同样的装备 a friend or a family member of him, you kinda have to have that same thing.
这件事发生以后 我的想法或多或少有点变化 Like after that happened, for whatever reason, it kinda like waked me up more than normal.
往常我都觉得他一定能成功的 You know, normally I'm just like, "Oh, he's got it.
他就是个猛兽 他不会出什么意外 He's such, he's such a beast, you know, he's gonna be fine."
但现在我 But I just, like,
有点担心他去攀岩 am stressed out about the thing a little bit, you know?
我也怕掉下山崖摔死 但你挑战自己并且做到极致时 Look, I don't wanna fall off and die either, but there's a satisfaction to
你会有一种满足感 challenging yourself and doing something well.
这种感觉在你面临死亡时更加强烈 That feeling is heightened when you're for sure facing death.
你必须做到万无一失 You can't make a mistake.
如果你是个追求完美的人 那Free Solo是最接近你心愿的事 If you're seeking perfection, free soloing is as close as you can get.
有那么一瞬间 做到完美确实还不错 And, uh, it does feel good to feel perfect, like, for a brief moment.
我的朋友经常会说 "这件事特别不靠谱" 可一旦我发生意外 My friends are like, "Oh, that'd be terrible," but if I kill myself in an accident,
他们最多说一句 "这真是太糟糕了" 然后继续照常生活 they'll be like, "Oh, that was too bad," but like life goes on, you know,
他们不会想太多 like they'll be fine.
有时候我那些女朋友也会对我说 I mean, and I've had this problem with girls a lot, you know.
"我真的很担心你" 那我会说"不 你没有" They're like, "Oh, I really care about you," I'm like, "No you don't."
就算我死了 也没关系 Like if I perish, like, it doesn't matter,
你们反正都会再找下一个男友 也不是什么大事 like you'll find somebody else, like, that's not, that's not that big a deal.
我也不确定啦 I don't know.
这些事讲起来还挺悲观的 Maybe that's a little too callous.
受伤后五周
我的脚在好转 现在还有点儿肿 My foot is improving, but it still swells up a bit.
看着绳子 Rope!
漂亮的下降 Pretty epic rappel.
我们就像坐缆车下山一样 Uh, we're just commuting down the wall, kinda.
今天还真是愉快的一天 We're just having a good old time.
客观地分析徒手攀酋长岩 就会发现有六段线路最让我 If you look at soloing El Cap objectively, there are probably six pitches that
担心 worry me the most.
首先刚离开地面 就会有一个不安全路段 Just off the ground, there's some insecure climbing.
然后是第六段 "极限大光板" 我摔下来过的地方 And then Freeblast, Pitch 6, being the one I fell off of,
第六段 极限大光板
那简直就是个白痴失误 which is obviously a total botch.
接着下攀到空石片平台 Then the down climb to the Hollow Flake.
第十四段 空石片平台
上面是怪兽大裂缝 And then the Monster Offwidth,
第十九段 怪兽大裂缝
这段路需要一种极其复杂的攀岩方式 which is super physical, difficult style of climbing.
置身怪兽大裂缝路段 你身体总有一部分 When you're in the Monster Offwidth, some part of you is always being
被卡在缝隙里 crushed in the mountain.
这就是世界上最糟糕的普拉提课程 Imagine like the worst type of Pilates class in the whole world,
上课时还有人拿着鞭子抽你 还会偶尔拿来张砂纸在你皮肤上蹭 somebody like flogging as you do it, and occasionally like sandpapering skin
还告诉你就算你要吐 也得保持这个动作 off your body, telling you to hold the position until you freakin' vomit,
稍微动错一步就会跌入万丈深渊 and if you lose the position you die.
出入耐力角路段 是Free Solo酋长岩 The Enduro Corner, in and of itself, would have been the most difficult part of
第二十六段 耐力角
路段中最难的部分 virtually any big solo I've done.
没有脚点 Your feet aren't on any specific holds.
能让你贴在岩壁上的是 What makes your feet stay to the wall is the amount of pressure that you
你手上的拉力 pull with your hands.
你手拉得越紧 你的脚就越牢 The harder you pull with your hands, the more your feet stick.
这是全程最需要手臂力量的阶段 The most demanding for your arms on the whole route.
但你攀了762米 才到耐力角 此时你会感到筋疲力竭 And you've climbed 2,500 feet to get to the Enduro Corner, so you're pretty fatigued.
第二十六段 耐力角
但我最担心的却是一道难关 也是最复杂的路段 But the piece that I've always worried about the most is the crux, the hardest part.
为了通过这一路段 你必须选择"抱石难题"或者"特富龙角"其中一条路 To get past the crux, you have climb either the Boulder Problem or the Teflon Corner.
第二十三段 抱石难题
第二十三段 特富龙角
600多米高 不管哪条路我都带着绳子摔下来很多次 2,000 off the ground, each of which I've fallen off many times with a rope.
特富龙角就像两片互相垂直的玻璃 The Teflon Corner, which is basically like a 90-degree corner of glass,
太滑了 让我心里发颤 which is ultra-slippery, just fills me with terror.
我需要两手撑着两边的岩壁 就像我的手掌和脚都撑在玻璃上一样 Pushing against the two walls of it, with my feet on glass, my palms on glass,
同时尝试微调我的支撑点来保持平衡 and trying to make these little micro adjustments to keep my balance centered so
这样我就可以把力均匀地分在这四个点上 that I can push evenly on all four sides of it.
感受2500英尺的风在我身下呼啸而过 And then I imagine 2,500 feet of air beneath my feet, you're, like,
想想就很刺激 that's just a crazy thing to think about.
另一条路是"抱石难题" The alternative is the Boulder Problem.
第二十三段 抱石难题
这条路上有十英尺的部分超乎寻常地难攀 But the Boulder Problem has a 10-foot section that's incredibly difficult.
这像是一串高难度杂技表演 It's a very intricate sequence.
右手扣住一个点 左手抓牢一个斜面 You've got your right hand on a crimp, left hand on a side pole,
然后把右脚挪到一个浅凹处 and then you put your right foot onto this dimple thing.
右手向上扣住一个下拉的小点 左脚移入一个落脚点 Right hand goes up to a small down-pulling crimp, left foot goes into a little dish,
然后将左脚的重心移到脚趾上 and then you drive up off the left foot into the thumb press.
这是整条路上最难的部分 That's the worst hold on the entire route.
你只能用一半手指去稳定你的身体 So, you get maybe half your thumb on the hold.
然后用两个指尖作为支撑 换脚 Then you roll your two fingers over the thumb, switch your feet,
左脚移动到一个黑底斜坡 left foot stems out to this really bad sloping black foothold.
换手 Switch your thumbs.
然后向左抓住一个大斜棱 And then reach out left to a big sloping bread loaf type hold that
那手感有些粗糙 feels kind of grainy.
现在你要么空手道踢 要么用连续两个dyno（手脚同时离开岩壁的跳跃动作抓到下一个手点）到对面的岩壁上 From there, you either karate kick or double-dyno to an edge on the opposite wall.
某种程度上 在这里应该用dyno的动作 In some ways, it makes more sense to do the big two-handed jump because you're jumping to
因为下一个岩点很好抓 a good edge so there's actually something to catch.
但是在没有绳子的情况下Dyno太冒险了 But the idea of jumping without a rope seems completely outrageous,
如果不小心失手 就完了 if you miss it, that's that.
但是空手道侧踢的动作也感觉要滑下去一样 But then the karate kick always feels like you're falling into the other wall,
对徒手攀爬来说也很冒险 which also feels outrageous for soloing.
说实话 我是说 我捏住那个峰岩的时候很有力 Honestly, it wasn't like, I mean I felt, like, pretty strong just pinching
把脚放在 that shit and just being that, put the foot.
就像我说的 你把脚放在那的时候 Well, as I said, when you actually put your foot out there, I was like,
看起来还好 "Well, that doesn't look that bad."
是的 并没有很疯狂嘛 拭目以待 Yeah, it's not like crazy, but we'll see.
你早上吃止痛药了吗 Did you take Ibuprofen this morning?
早上吃了 现在还要吃点 Uh-hmm, I mean, I'm going to right now also.
-是脚踝痛吗 -是的 - For your ankle? - Uh-hmm.
他去Free Solo的时候我不会特别激动 因为他已经是 I'm not, like, super stoked when he goes soloing, because he's already a
我生活的一部分了 big part of my life.
我经常对Alex说我爱你 他也一直用行动这样告诉我 I tell Alex I love him all the time, and he shows me that he loves me all the time.
真的深潜进去 And really just dive in.
是的 是的 Yeah, yeah, yeah.
但是我也跟他说 我需要听你说出来 But I also tell him that I also need words of affection.
-是的 -我们在努力 - Yeah. - We work on that.
在表达情感这方面 Alex还有很长的路要走 In terms of learning how to communicate emotion, Alex has a long way to go.
我说 "有时候我会告诉你我的感受" 你要说 And I said, "Sometimes I'm gonna tell you how I feel, and I just need you to say it
"我完全理解你为什么会这么想" totally makes sense that you feel that way."
他会说 "是的 我理解你为什么会这么想" He was like, "Yeah, I can understand why you feel that way."
我就回答 "我不觉得你真的理解 I was like, "I don't really think that you do,
但是我很高兴你在试图理解" but I'm glad that you're trying."
Alex 我们合作得太棒了 Alex, we have excellent team skills.
我觉得没有那么完美 Well, I thought, I feel like we're not quite killin' it, but we're,
但是我们做的很好了 I think we're doin' well.
真的吗 我觉得我们很棒 Really? I think we're doing great.
我很开心看到Alex和桑妮相处的这么好 I'm very happy for Alex and Sanni that it works so well.
我也被他们的感情感动了 And I'm, I think I'm just impressed by their relationship,
但是这么高级别的Free Solo 你真的要有一副精神上的盔甲 but to free solo at that level, you really have to have the mental armor.
这样一段浪漫的恋爱是不利于形成精神护甲的 Having that romantic relationship around is detrimental to that armor.
在攀岩时你需要集中精神 但恋爱关系总会 You have to focus and inherently a close romantic relationship
使你卸下盔甲 removes that armor.
鱼和熊掌不能兼得 You kinda can't have both at the same time.
总有一些东西会给你自信 There's always something that has to give you the confidence to
让你出去开始Free Solo go out and free solo a route.
有时候这种自信源自感觉状态特别好 So sometimes, that confidence just comes from feeling super, super fit.
有时候来自充分的准备和训练 Sometimes, that confidence comes through preparation and rehearsal.
总会有事情让你觉得你准备好了 But I mean there's always something that makes you feel ready.
总有要强调的事情 比如 Free Solo一些线路 There's something to be said for, like, soloing a bunch of pitches to, like,
或者 找好落脚点 get into that right space.
压力有点大 It's a little stressful.
感觉很不真实 It's just, it's unreal.
是的 Yeah.
尽管我很相信Alex 我知道他很有经验 And as much as I trust Alex and I know that he's really methodical, uh,
但如果把自己逼到极限 最后会崩溃的 if you're pushing the edge, eventually you find the edge.
但是有些事情你必须要 But then there's just some things that you're, like, well,
逼自己去尝试 因为那些事太酷了 you just have to push that far because they're just, they're just that cool.
无保护攀爬酋长岩就很酷 And El Cap is that cool.
世界上所有事情都在慢慢向前推进 There's incremental advances that happen in all kinds of things,
但是有时候就会有一个标志性的飞跃 比如徒手攀酋长岩 but every once in a while there's just this iconic leap, soloing El Cap,
如果他成功了 就是质的飞跃 if he pulls this off, is this quantum leap.
很难想象有人能够不带绳子 孤身无保护攀爬这座山 It is hard to imagine somebody up there by themselves, without a rope,
皮特·克罗夫特
职业攀岩者/Free Solo家
基本所有陡峭的悬崖都在这了 where it's pretty much all the other big cliffs around here.
我能理解他 I can kinda get it.
这两条路线你徒手攀爬过几次了 How many times have you soloed both those routes now?
阿斯特罗曼峰 三四次 但是罗斯特姆峰 Well, Astroman, three or four times, but the Rostrum, I mean, literally,
真的有五六十次了 like, fifty, sixty.
你徒手攀爬过罗斯特姆峰五六十次? Wait, you've soloed the Rostrum 50 or 60 times?
就好像巡回一样 It was like part of the circuit and I would,
我去那并且至少爬两次 I would go there and I would do it at least twice.
好像把它据为己有一样 Like I was just glommed on.
不是害怕什么 就好像 Not like I had a fear, but just kind of like this is how.
是的 因为你特别紧张 我也喜欢这种感觉 Yeah, because you're so tight. You know, I love that about soloing.
我的脚步变得更灵活 My footwork gets really good.
是的 完全是这样 Yeah, really, yeah totally, yeah.
别人无法体会 只有我自己能感受到 But it's not for anybody else, this is just for me.
是的 当然只有你能感受 Yeah, yeah, just because you feel like you're.
攀爬上阿斯特罗曼峰之后 人们都说 And after Astroman, people were like,
"我们想拍你 拍摄你攀爬的过程" "Ah, we wanna film you, film you up there,"
我说 "我一点都不感兴趣" and I'm like, "Not interested, not even slightly."
对我来说 保持初心的攀爬太重要了 For me, it was so incredibly important to be doing it for the right reasons.
我认为 我做的一切也都是为了恰当的理由 I mean, I think I'm still doing everything for the right reasons,
我还是很爱攀岩 但是我觉得对别人来说 and I'm still totally stoked, but I feel like from the outside observer, you know,
他们会觉得 "噢 他有摄影人员跟着" 但很明显 they'd be like, "Oh, he's got a movie crew," like clearly that's the
那不是正确的理由 wrong reasons, you know.
最怕有制片组跟着 会改变你的心态 The worst thing about having a film crew is if it changes your mindset.
我觉得Alex差不多准备好了 I think Alex is almost ready to do it.
他只是想再练习一下 He just wants to take a few more practice laps.
我们在找摄像机能拍摄的位置 And we're just trying to figure out all of our camera positions.
Solo线路的顶部空间太狭小了 I mean the soloing headspace is so fragile.
我们想拍好 但又不能挡道 并且还要确保 We wanna film it well, but it's about not getting in his way and making sure
他能得到自己想要的体验 he has the experience he wants.
最可怕的情况就是我们做的事情 The worst possible scenario is that one of us would do something
可能会害死他 that would kill him.
沙恩·连普
职业攀岩者/摄影师
可能会是无人机 Is it gonna be the drone?
一截绳子 Is it gonna be one of the ropes?
或者不小心踩落的石头 Is it gonna be us accidently knocking off a rock?
显然 我一直避免去想坠落这事儿 The idea of falling off is, you know, obviously I'm trying to avoid that,
如果是只有我一个人的时候还好 but it's like kind of okay if it's just by myself.
但是 我不想当着朋友的面摔下去 But, like, I wouldn't wanna fall off right in front of my friends, 'cause that's like,
那就太糟糕了 that's kind of messed up.
大体上我们在哪你会比较舒服 Where are you comfortable with us being essentially?
你可以尝试上方 Well, do you have like.
横切过去 The traverse into it?
-嗯 -好 - Uh-hmm. - Yeah.
然后放一台摄像机在"抱石难题"上 And then a, just a camera above, sitting above the Boulder Pitch, essentially.
-嗯 那很干扰人 -是很干扰人 - Yeah. -It's distracting. - Yeah, it's distracting.
那不仅很干扰 并且 Well, it's not just distracting, but it's also like, you know,
没人想看到它 nobody wants to see that, I don't know.
嗯 最好别放 Like, yeah, I don't, yeah, it's better not to.
有些事儿就 你懂 Some things you're like, meh.
那 我是不是该去山谷那边做做规划了? So should I rally into the valley and try to like round out plans?
嗯 Yeah.
月亮四点五十的时候会落下山脊 Um, the moon set at 4:50 behind the ridge.
七点半太阳就会照到山尖 八点零五可能就照到攀登最困难的地方了 The spire was touched by the sun at 7:30 and by 8:05, the sun was to the crux probably.
-八点零五? -对 - 8:05? - Okay.
你肯定不想顶着大太阳去爬最难的地方 You don't want it to be sunny when you get to the crux,
爬到"抱石难题"需要三四小时 and it takes three or four hours to get up to the Boulder Problem,
现在是秋天 为了避开太阳 and it's fall so in order to beat the sun,
基本上只能天黑着就开始爬 you basically have to start in the dark.
我觉得我们四点出发就行 I kinda think just leave the ground at 4:00 again, basically.
不好说 I don't know.
我有点开始兴奋了 I'm starting to get kind of psyched.
从某些角度讲 开始攀岩的时候 心里最平静 The moment of just letting go to it is in some ways the most peaceful because
你只是在做着你要做的事情 then it's like you just do your thing.
不会再紧张 焦虑 或者害怕 There's no more stress, there's no more anxiety, there's no fear, whatever,
去做就好 you just go up and do it.
我今天穿了双很紧的鞋 非常兴奋 I put on my tight shoes today, it's like very exciting.
就好像一个武士拔出了他最爱的剑 It would be, like, it would be like a samurai pulling out his favorite sword,
就像 you know like,
噢 天 我现在感觉 "Oh, my gosh," you know, and now I'm like,
"噢 是时候亮出锋利的剑了" "Oh, time for the, the finely crafted blade."
太激动了 我喜欢把兜帽拉下来 So stoked. I like sinking into it.
像个绝地武士一样 拿着激光剑 然后我 It's, it goes with the Jedi thing, the samurai with the, and then I just
吃了点布洛芬 started taking Ibuprofen.
我一直在冰敷 我觉得我的脚状态不错 I've been, like, icing a bunch and, like, I think my foot's gonna be pretty good.
你告诉桑妮的时候 她什么反应? Yeah, what does Sanni say when you talk to her about it?
呃 我还没告诉她什么 Um, I mean I haven't talked to her that much.
她一直在问各种问题 比如进行得怎么样了 She's been, like, asking a lot of questions like, "Oh, you know, how's it?"
我就说 还好 还好 And I'm, I just haven't really like, I'm just like, "Oh, we'll see, we'll see."
你知道 越少人知道越好 You know, the fewer people know anything, the better really.
我做了梦 梦到你跛了 I had a dream and you were limping and you were like, had caught,
你像上次一样 一个姿势掉下来伤了脚踝同一个地方 had like made the exact same fall and fallen on your ankle in the exact same way.
那可真是太棒了 桑桑 That's really nice, San San.
那真是太惨了 It was like tragic.
我就喜欢听这种故事 I love hearing stories about that.
我醒来 想 "天啊 别再出事儿了" I woke up, like, "Oh my gosh. - I hope that didn't happen."
那真挺好的 That's, that's really nice.
呃 你的小包 Um, what is your, is your daypack?
他们会给你和皮特带上来吗? They're bringing it up there for you and Peter?
嗯 不 Um, no.
明天可能只给我 For me tomorrow, probably.
在山上用的? For on the mountain?
嗯 没错 山顶上用 Um, for the summit, yeah.
嗯 你和皮特要挑战全程? Hmm, you and Peter are gonna try and do the whole thing?
呃 不 皮特大概有几天不会在这儿 Uh, no, Peter won't be here for a couple of days probably.
噢 那你明天和谁一起爬 Oh, who are you climbing with tomorrow?
嗯 让我们拭目以待吧 Um, yeah, we'll just see.
好吧 听你的 Oh, okay, okay.
等下 你之所以不告诉我谁和你一起攀岩 Wait, so are you thinking of soloing it tomorrow, is that why you're not telling me who
是因为你想明天独自去 you're climbing with?
好吧 我不是不想告诉你 但是确实如此 Um, well, I'm not like not telling you, but yeah.
你好坏啊 Alex Whoa, Alex.
你感觉如何 How do you feel?
我现在很期待 I'm, you know, I mean, excited.
确实令人期待 是不是那种感觉 当你想 That's really exciting. Is it that feeling when you're like...
想立马沉浸在阅读里 So exciting I'm gonna go right back to my book.
不 我没在看书 Where you're like, no, I'm not reading it.
你什么时候决定的 When did you decide?
什么时候决定的明天独自攀岩 When did you decide to do it tomorrow?
嗯 昨天或者前天 管他什么时候呢 No, just, you know, uh, yesterday or the day before or something.
我在消化信息 Hmm, I'm processing.
就像我想要更多 想完全变成你喜欢的样子 I wanna, like I wanna have this more, like, holistic approach that you have where
像你说的那样 "我们终将逝去 you're like "Well, we're all gonna die,
在世之时尽力绽放 离世之际也无需怨言" like might as well do what we wanna do while we're here and
但是我想你在人生的半路中遇见我 it's okay when people die," but I feel like I want you to meet me halfway
当你独自攀岩时 也要时刻挂念着我 and when you solo to take me into the equation
然后我想你会说 and then I think you said...
-有什么问题吗 -有一些 以后会有的 -好的 -Is there a question? -Some, there's going to be. -Okay.
时刻挂念着我会不会改变什么事情 Um, would putting me into the equation actually ever change anything?
会不会影响你做决定 Would you actually make decisions differently?
如果我有某种义务来最大限度延长我的寿命 就像这样 If I had some kind of obligation to maximize my lifespan, then like yeah,
那么显然我必须放弃Free Solo obviously I'd have to give up soloing and, um.
那我问你 你觉得陪伴着我算是一种义务吗 Was me asking you, do you see that as an obligation now?
嗯 不 不算 ...Uh, no, no.
好的 Oh.
感谢你的关心 我也尊重你对我的关心 No, but I appreciate your concerns and I, you know, I respect that, but, but I,
但我绝不会认为那算是一种义务 in no way, feel obligated, no.
使寿命最大化 To maximize lifetime?
不 不是 我不知道 No, no, I don't know.
但是你说"注意安全" 我当然想 但是我办不到 Um, but I mean like you saying, "Be safer," I'm kinda like well, I mean I can't.
我一直竭尽所能去注意安全 You know, I'm already doing my best.
所以我只能不去尝试那些特别危险的事情 So I could just, like, not do certain things, but then you have, like,
但是当你一生最爱做的事被生活压垮 weird simmering resentment because it's things that you love most in life
你就会满肚子来气 have now been squashed.
你明白吗 You know what I mean?
-现在几点 -凌晨三点半 - What time is it? -3:30.
我在闹钟前一分钟醒来 I just woke up one minute before my alarm.
你醒得早了还是晚了 Yeah, you woke up before or after?
早一分钟 One minute before.
攀岩总是离不开卓越和完美二词 It's like always about, like, excellence and perfection.
我始终在这条路上追求着 不断践行 And I was certainly raised that way, you know, that you need to, you need to perform.
攀岩当然也很疯狂 因为你是在人类历史上 It's also just like kind of rad because you're doing something for the first time
第一次做着一些事情 in human history.
希望今天的重力低点 Let's hope it's a low gravity day.
哈克再见 地面上见 Bye, Huck, see you at the ground.
-地上见 -回见 兄弟 - Meet you in the ground. - See you, buddy.
第六段
极限平面
480英尺
这里太糟糕了 我不想在这里 This sucks. I don't wanna be here.
搞定了 I'm over it.
怎么了 What happened?
我在那下边大光板岩壁上作弊了 I cheated on the slab down there.
用无线电说一下吧 Might as well radio it.
你想跟他说吗 Do you wanna talk to him?
我不知道说什么 挺尴尬的 I don't even know what to say, it's, like, kind of embarrassing.
嘿 我是Alex 有人在听吗 Uh, hey, whoever's on the radio, this is Alex.
我想我要中途放弃了 Um, I think I'm bailing.
等下 你能复述一遍吗 Wait, could you repeat?
我想他真的打算中途放弃了 I think he's bailing from heart.
恩 真的想中途放弃了 Bailing from heart, that's correct.
真令人不安 It's kind of disturbing.
我想知道发生什么了 Yeah, I wonder what it was.
我不知道能否在众目睽睽下尝试 I don't know if I can try with everybody watching.
太可怕了 It's too scary.
我没法真正去尝试 Just can't, like, try for real.
字幕Edit By远鉴字幕组 Re-Edit By 200克
-哦 天哪 -早上好 -你在干嘛 - Oh, my gosh. -Good morning. - What are you doing?
嗯 我中途放弃了 Oh, I bailed.
你中途放弃了 You bailed, oh?
外边真冷 Yeah, it's chilly outside.
确实好冷 进来吧 It's chilly, okay.
行 Okay.
发生什么了 What's going on?
没什么 Well, not much.
怎么了 What's up?
我只是 我刚爬到"极限大光板" 然后我 Oh, I just, I went up to Free Blast and I was, like, nah,
我不打算干了 但是... I'm not gonna' do it. But...
行 不错 Good for you.
啊 是啊 就是有点奇怪 你知道吧 Yeah, well, it's just a little weird, you know?
对啊 我的意思是有太多不确定性了 人啊 东西啊 什么的 Right, I mean there's just too many random, random folks about and stuff, whatever.
但我基本上已经爬完一半大光板了 But, like, basically I did the first half of the first slab.
然后 嗯 我就是有点 "我不知道要干什么了" And then, uh, and then I just was like, "Oh, I don't know."
然后我的脚 And my feet.
对 你的决定是对的 Right, you made the perfect decision.
我也不知道 我就是有点 I don't know though, I'm just like.
对 Yeah.
但现在一切都得滞后了 我有点 But now it all has to drag on longer, I'm like.
你 对 我的意思是 你没必要非做不可啊 You, yeah, I mean, you never have to go for it.
你可以只 You can just.
好吧 我只是不想再做了 你懂吧 Well, I just need it to end, you know.
对 懂 都懂 Yeah, yeah, all the...
对 你懂我在说什么 Yeah, you know what I'm talking about.
你有选择的权利 The circus surrounding you.
我有点想象不到 他是不是紧张了 I just can't imagine, I wonder if he got nervous.
有可能吗 Is that possible?
哦天呐 Oh, man.
他身上有太多让我看不懂的东西了 There's a lot of things that I don't totally understand about him.
你知道吧 You know?
嗯 我知道 Yeah, I know.
但要是说他完全没有顾虑的也是不可能的 I mean in some ways it'd be kind of reassuring that Spock has nerves.
这是我攀岩事业中第一次真正的挑战 It was the first time I've ever gone up on something like real and
却我半途而废 then not done it.
但这也是我第一次在众人面前挑战如此之难的岩壁 But it's also the first time I've ever gone up on something real with people all watching.
就我自己的话 我可能会 坚持下去 说实话我也不知道 By myself, I maybe would have just, like, persevered, I don't know,
也可能我也就是太弱了 但 maybe I just suck, but,
至少我试了 我试过了 you know, at least I've like, at least I've tried.
拉斯维加斯
感谢你们再来参观 Thanks for meeting us again.
有点好笑 就是这边每次都会有种奇怪的味道 我想会不会是因为 It's funny, it always has a certain smell in here, and I wonder if it's
这个油漆 the paint or the.
对 是刚上的油漆 Yeah, it's the fresh paint.
餐厅 说不定会有放个书架 Dining room with probably also bookshelves.
等一下 所以 我在签什么 Wait, so what am, what am I signing?
"购买者批准了房屋检查" "Buyers of unit approves the home inspection."
Alex告诉我 每天只准问一个关于家具的问题 Yeah, Alex told me I get one furniture question a day.
我一直觉着我应该买个房子 I've always thought that I ought to buy a house,
但就是没有那么多精力去搞那么多事情 just haven't quite had the energy to make it all happen myself.
我觉着桑妮会因为有了个住的地方而开心起来 I think Sanni will be stoked to have a place to live and there's so much
而且拉斯维加斯附近有很多可以攀岩的地方 climbing all around Vegas.
这里会有一个大的拼合沙发和椅子 或者沙发和两个椅子 Big sectional here and chair or like sofa and two chairs.
这里有可能会是 小吧台 Potential, like, bar area.
要我就直接睡在地毯上 I would just sleep straight on the carpet.
他就是个大混蛋 傻愣愣看着我在那里量那么多东西 Alex was a huge jerk watching me struggle with the tape measure,
站着说话不腰疼 整天评论着我有多蠢 being an asshole standing by commenting on how stupid I look,
丝毫没有给予任何形式上的帮助或提出什么想法 but not actually offering to help or be productive or kind in any way.
所以现在买房计划泡汤了 And so now it's all gone to shit.
对 如果你要问我们这家人幸不幸福 那压根不存在 Yeah, you're asking about our domestic bliss, it's nonexistent.
你好生气噢 但你快要崩了 你快憋不住了 You're so angry, but it's cracking, it's cracking.
没崩呢 It's not cracking.
好好好 要崩了 Yeah, it is, it's cracking.
不 没有 还是生气呢 No, it's not, I'm still angry.
我能看出来你要憋不住了 I can tell you're cracking.
我没崩呢 I'm not cracking.
但你没那么生气了 你憋不住的 But you're not that angry, you're cracking.
我憋得住 I'm not cracking.
下定决心要恨你 This is firm resolve of hatred.
天啊 Oh, boy.
这冰箱空间挺宽敞嘛 That one seems very big and very wide.
哇 Oh.
哇 这个看起来很深啊 Whoa, that seems really deep.
找找看有没有小的 Let's keep looking for the smaller ones.
哦 这个四百块的 就这个了 Oh, this is the $400, that's it.
说实话 这个很完美啊 This is actually, like, kind of perfect.
这个刚刚好 This is like so adequate.
我们有冰箱了 We have a fridge!
-耶 -真是个胜利 - Yay! -That success.
这样行吗? Is it possible?
自从上次在优胜美地公园半途而废 事情就一直不怎么顺利 We had like a sort of a rough patch since Yosemite, where, I don't know,
Alex不太会表达自己的情感 Alex isn't super good about putting a name to how he's feeling.
他只会说 "我知道我现在有点暴躁 但我说不清具体原因 So, he'll be like, "I know I'm cranky, but I don't really know why and I'm not gonna
也不想花时间想清楚" take the time to figure it out."
我很有耐心 但我也有自尊 I'm patient, but I also have self-respect.
只要我一生气 他就会"刷"的一下变得很乖 And then, you know, the second that I start being mad, he's just like "foom".
话说做咖啡离不了什么? How do you make coffee?
当然是咖啡过滤器 You need like a filter.
毫无疑问 所有我交往过的女友中 桑妮跟我的关系是最健康 Definitely my relationship with Sanni is, like, the most healthy and stable
也是最稳定的 relationship I've ever had.
哦看啊 橱子里正好放着孤零零的一个 Oh, look at that, the only thing in the cupboard.
跟她在一起 我也更爱说话了 Certainly more communicative.
我们恋爱的这一年半以来 就连桑妮都会感叹 Even Sanni over the year and a half we've been dating is like,
"哇 你真的进步很大" "Wow, you've really blossomed."
呃 这东西真能用嘛 Well, that's not really promising.
直接把咖啡粉倒进去 然后加水 压过去? And you think you put the coffee in there and then you push the water through it?
我不明白怎么 呃 I don't know how to, um.
哈喽 哦天哪 哇哦 Hello, oh, my gosh, wow!
咋了? Oh, like, how's, why?
这就开始把这儿当家了呀? Is this what it is to be, um, a homeowner?
每天都自己做早餐 煮咖啡? You get breakfast and coffee made for you every day?
我不知道这东西怎么用 是不是往里面倒点咖啡粉 I don't, I don't understand the, do you put the coffee in here and
然后灌上水? then put the water to it?
的确有点复杂 It's really complicated.
桑妮看待事物的方式跟我不一样 But she sees things in a different way.
在她看来 生命的意义在于幸福 For Sanni the point of life is like happiness.
在于结交让自己生命更充实的人 好好享受一切 To be with people that make you feel fulfilled and to have a good time.
在我看来 生命的意义在于成就 For me it's all about performance.
谁都能活得舒服快活 The thing is anybody can be happy and cozy.
但如果人人如此 世界就无法进步 Nothing good happens in the world by being happy and cozy.
你知道吗 吃得苦中苦 方为人上人 You know, like nobody achieves anything great because they're happy and cozy.
虽然说 我绝不想拖他后腿 You never wanna feel like you're getting in the way of someone's goal.
不过我真的很难理解他为什么有这种追求 And it's really hard for me to grasp why he wants this.
但这是他的梦想 而他显然不甘放弃 But it's his dream and he obviously still really wants it.
生命之意义在于奋勇当先 It's about being a warrior.
至于个中原因 倒不见得多么重要 It doesn't matter about the cause necessarily.
这就是你的人生道路 你要好好走下去 This is your path and you will pursue it with excellence.
你直面恐惧 只因这是实现目标的必然要求 You face your fear because your goal demands it.
这就是他妈的勇士精神 That is the goddamn warrior spirit.
我觉得Free Solo精神与勇士文化有密切的联系 I think that the free soloing mentality is pretty close to warrior culture,
二者都要求精力的百分之百集中 因为这关乎生死 where you give something 100% focus because your life depends on it.
2017年 春天
在下降的这一段 我本想右脚踩在这个小的凸起上 The move I gave up on in the fall was a right foot on this little edge right here,
但那样的话 就得全指望右脚了 and I basically just have to like stand on the right foot and just trust it.
我转念一想 "我不想把我整条命 And I was like, "I don't really wanna have my whole life depend on like standing
都押在右脚点上" on this one right foot."
所以我可能要找出别的办法 But maybe I can find another way.
我觉得这就像做押上一切身家的生意 I think this is like kind of the business of the whole deal,
输不输个精光 只有一绳之差 which is interesting because if you're climbing with a rope it's not at all,
马克·辛诺特
攀岩记者
这有意思得很 but without a rope it is.
刚刚那就是我想出来的办法了 That's my variation,
我也说不好 I just don't know.
只有当他真正有自信心和安全感的时候 I think that he's only comfortable climbing in front of the camera or in front of
他才能自如地应对摄像机和其他人的在场 any other people when he's really confident and secure.
而这正是拍摄所处的窘境 对吧? And that's been the dilemma that this whole production has faced, right?
-对 -这窘境从未被攻克 - Yeah. - From the beginning.
只要我们有人在 就必定有所不同 Our being there is always going to change things.
去年他回心转意 对我来说意义重大 What made the big difference for me is that he did turn around last year.
因为这说明 我们的在场没有给他硬着头皮上的压力 He didn't feel the pressure to have to do it because we were there.
这真的让我放心不少 And I really, like that to me said a lot.
的确 It meant a lot.
你是不想让我们拍了吗? Is that what you'd want, us not to film it?
那倒不是 Hmm, no.
这话可能不太好听 但比起拍片子 I mean, hard to say it but I care about doing it a lot more than I care
我更在乎的是Free Solo本身 about it being filmed.
你明白吗? You know?
你随时都可以放弃 然后... You could put your foot down at any time, and, and, you know.
嗯 这我知道 Yeah, I mean, I'm aware of it.
只要我愿意 我完全可以瞒着所有人 Like, if I want to, I just won't tell anybody and I'm just gonna do it
然后自己去爬 on my own terms.
当然了 Like whatever, like I mean that's obviously on the table.
可那不就是伤了很多人的心吗 对吧? But obviously that would hose everybody, you know?
假设明早你一醒就说 If you woke up tomorrow and you were like,
"跟你说 都算了吧 "You know what, screw all of this,
别的我都不关心了 我不太舒服" I just don't care enough, like I don't feel good enough."
但那就又... 你知道 You know, but that's like, yeah,
嗯 我知道如果我不想拍的话可以随时中止拍摄 I mean, of course I, I mean, I know I could do that and just walk away.
但是我还是有点不想做这种事 But it's like, you know, I mean, you know, I don't want to.
第二十三段 抱石难题
有周围这么多人的关注 我就得准备得更充分 Having all these people around requires a higher level of preparation,
或者说更加自信 a higher level of confidence basically.
我得全身心的投入进去 I need to like dial it in so much that, you know, it doesn't matter if there's
不论对我来说是否信手拈来轻而易举 有没有熙熙攘攘的人群 like a stadium of people watching me because it's so easy for me that I'm just like,
和聚光灯为我欢呼喝彩 "Check this out." And just do it.
第一段 靠左一路向上 腿张开点更安全 Pitch one, stay left towards the top, splitter, it feels more secure.
第二段 主要靠右脚 相信脚点 Pitch two, trust the right foot, rock on, trust the feet,
右手反抠住岩石 right hand to the last under cling.
第八段 没什么问题 快速通过 Eight, easy romp. Go fast.
第九段 不要向下爬 小心落石 Nine, stay outside of the down climb, careful of blocks.
二十六段 略向后倾在角上的时候 左手用好寸劲儿 Pitch 26, sort of lie back and up the corner, key left-hand pinch thing,
右脚后退一步站在低一点儿的檐上 左脚脚尖朝墙 尝试站起来 right foot back step on the lower edge, left foot faced against the wall, stand up.
左手抓住大碗点 换脚 踩在大一点的檐儿上 Left hand to the huge ear jug thing, switch the feet, match the big jug,
左脚卡进缝隙里 右手紧抓岩壁的上端用力向下拉 left foot jams into the crack, then you see right-hand down pulling on the top part of the
左手伸进外倾的卡槽 这里用涨手或涨拳 jug, left hand goes into this flared slot thing, which you can either fist jam or hand
怎么卡死都可以 就像把火炬插在槽里 jam, either way, it's like a flare jam in the slot.
手向下垂 右手反抠 用侧拉 Sag down onto it, right hand crosses under to an under cling, side pull.
右脚下踩到平檐上 左脚再穿过下一个檐 Right foot sinks low to a flat edge, left foot steps through to an edge,
右脚向后上方撤一步 把重量压在角上 right foot back steps really high so you can sag your weight around the corner
可以避免摇踩 without having to swing.
左脚外伸到大尖角上 右手前伸到一个小的指尖 Left foot out to the big horn, right hand through to a little finger pocket,
左脚外伸到转角的檐上 然后就可以直接跨到角上 you go left foot out to an edge around the corner, you can actually push all the way
然后用右手微曲 into the corner, then you can grab this down pulling right hand, flat,
平抓这个下向拉槽 like a small crimp.
左手反抠另一块岩石 在横向岩石上换脚 Left hand to the other under cling, switch your feet on the rail and then just reach
直接踩过岩壁就可以了 through the jugs, and then it's done.
重中之重就在于用力拉 脚踩稳 "踩稳"划重点 The key thing for the crux, pull hard, trust feet, "trust" underline,
大大的感叹号 结束 double exclamation point, period.
自动驾驶 结束 Autopilot. Period.
乌利·斯泰克（外号：瑞士机器）在珠穆朗玛峰附近坠亡
乌利坠亡实际上也很正常 I mean, you know, it's not surprising that Ueli died.
他一直都喜欢做一些很冒险的动作 不过我一直觉得 Considering he's always doing crazy dangerous things, but I kind of thought
他能活很久 he was gonna survive.
乌利说他想做速攀 就是那种预先随便计划一下的攀爬 Ueli talked about doing sketchy climbs that you just kind of squeak out once.
而我一直都避免速攀 You know I've always tried not to.
不过我和他说"Free Rider"的时候 我说 But when I was talking to him about, about Free Rider, I was like,
"说不定这条路线我只要提前看一眼 "Oh maybe Free Rider is one of those routes that I just need to go squeak
剩下的就看运气听天由命了" out once and just like make sure it's my day."
讣告:乌利·斯泰克于四月三十日身亡
那天明显是他运气不好 You know, obviously it wasn't his day.
在乌利死后 我觉得有意思的是Alex很快 After Ueli died, it's interesting with Alex, how he justifies all that
就走出了乌利之死的阴影 stuff away so quickly.
他当时耸了耸肩 感觉像是说 He was just kind of like shrugged it off, he's like
"哦 意料之中" "Oh, yeah, yeah, it could happen."
我和Alex好好聊过这个问题 I talked to Alex for a really long time about all of this.
我说"万一是你死了呢 And I was like, "What if you die?
就像乌利那样死了呢" Like what if you die just like Ueli died?"
乌利和他老婆 妮可 非常恩爱 Ueli and his wife, Nicole, had a really beautiful relationship and they
他们本想一起攀岩的 would climb together.
当时Alex说 "你觉得她没有心理准备吗" Alex said at one point, "Well, what did she expect?"
我说"她要有什么心理准备啊" And I got, I was like, "What do you mean what did she expect?"
"我就是妮可 Alex 我可不希望你死" I was like, "I'm Nicole, Alex! And I don't expect that."
很多攀岩者都死了 Alex也属于高危人群 Tons of more people have died and Alex is kind of
但是我知道他依然会坚持下去 the most likely to die, but I know he's gonna do it.
所以我得帮他 帮他一路坚持下去 So I'd like to be there to help him prepare as well as he can.
我去 Oh, shit.
如果他某天Free Solo然后坠亡了 而我又没有帮他准备 If he went to solo it and fell and died, and I hadn't helped him prepare
我会更难过的 that would be harder for me.
因为我知道我是为数不多的可以帮他充分准备的人 Like, I just know that I'm, I'm one of the people that's gonna be able to do
那我就应该尽力帮他准备啊 that the best with him and so, I should.
他说他觉得这一切都像玩游戏一样 He said he's feeling tinges of, of like game time.
我觉得他明天是有可能去的 I think there's a chance he goes tomorrow.
这些是遥控摄像机 因为明天他攀岩的时候 They are remote cameras, because we wanna stay out of Alex's
我们不能出现在他的视线里 line of sight when he's doing it.
好了 大家都知道该如何执行紧急预案 Okay, everybody knows what to do if something goes wrong.
乔什 再确认一下麦克该打给谁 Josh, just to confirm who should Mikey call?
直接报警就好了 The easiest thing would just be 911.
他们会把我们知道的一切都做成笔录 And that we will get kicked into gear and tell them what you know.
攀岩者坠亡 A climber.
嗯 Yeah.
明天要万无一失 All right, no mistakes tomorrow.
我怕明天就是 I'm worried that tomorrow is gonna be it, like, you know,
就是Alex的最后一天 like Alex's existence will be over.
我想着"嗯 我得为这种情况做点准备 I was like, "Oh, I have to be prepared for that outcome and
我也得意识到是有这个可能性的" I have to realize that that is a real possibility."
天呐 Oh, God.
还记得你说过和我道别的时候你会站起来吗 Remember when you said you were gonna stand up for my goodbye?
-噢 到时间了吗 -对 - Oh, is it time? -Yeah.
你不用站起来 但你必须坐起来 But you don't have to stand up, but you have to sit up.
噢 你本可以直接离开我的 Oh, you could've just left me.
不 不 我永远不会离开你 No, no, I'm never gonna go.
好的 小心开车 Okay, drive safe.
再见咯 Ciao, see you later!
我没有让她走的意思 I mean, I didn't ask her to leave.
我不会主动劝她走 I mean, I would never ask her to leave.
但是 我认为她隐隐知道 But, you know, I think she kind of understands that, that it's probably easier for
或许她离开会让我轻松些 me if she's gone.
让她走掉这件事 我心里想的是 I don't, I, the whole like saying goodbye thing I'm like
"我可能会在五天后或者什么时候再见到她" "I'll probably see her in like five days or something."
这不像是告别 只是几天的分离 It's not like goodbye, it's just goodbye for a few days.
我常有种奇怪的想法 You know, I mean there's just that like weird thought of like,
别让那次拥抱成为最后一次 don't freaking let that be our last hug or whatever.
我不应该去想 You know, like I shouldn't be having that thought...
"万一发生了意外会怎样 of like "What if something happens?
或者我再也见不到他会怎样" Like what if I don't see him again?"
就像我不问 "你为什么非要去啊 You know, like, "Why do you wanna do this?
这简直太疯狂了" Like it's a totally crazy goal."
嘿 Jimmy 你能收到吗 Hey, Jimmy, do you copy?
Jimmy收到 This is Jimmy.
他刚开始攀登 He just started climbing.
第六段
极限平面
480英尺
那里很滑 It is so slippery right there.
这就是他上次中途放弃的地方 This is where he bailed.
麦克 你能听到吗 我是Jimmy Mikey, do you copy? This is Jimmy.
嘿 Jimmy 我能听到 Hey, Jimmy, this is Mikey.
他通过"极限大光板"时告诉我好吗 Can you let me know when he's through the slab pitch?
他通过了 He's through the slab pitch.
他通过了吗 He's through it?
对 他几乎走了一半了 Yup, he's almost at half dollar.
他速度加快了 He's moving fast.
对 Jimmy 他比计划提前了 Yes, Jimmy, he is of course ahead of schedule.
2017年 六月三日
第六段 极限大光板
所以他离马默斯段还有多远 So how far is he from Mammoth?
现在刚好走了一半 Doing the half dollar right now.
第九段 下攀段
六点二十一分他爬向心脏壁架 那里有人 6:21 he's down climbing to Heart Ledge there's a party,
还在壁架上 in a Porter Ledge still.
他们醒着并发现了他 They're awake and there's, they're aware.
他们肯定心想 "汉诺来了" 我的天啊 They're like "Here comes Honnold." Oh, my God.
有个穿兔子套装的兄弟 A Dude in a bunny suit.
那个人起来了 The person is getting up now.
哦 不 他有尾巴 Uh yeah, no there's a tail.
那个人有尾巴 还有个既不像鸡又不像兔子的头 This person has a tail and it's either a chicken head or a bunny.
噢 那是独角兽 Oh, it's a unicorn.
得了吧 谁会那样穿 Come on. Who does that?
我在酋长岩从没见过这种人 I've never seen that on El Cap.
哇哦 Alex走远了 Wow, and Alex is gone.
好的 他于六点四十九到达"空石片平台" Okay, so he's entering the Hollow Flake at 6:49.
他刚才从"空石片平台"向下爬了 现在他又回去了 He just did the Hollow Flake down climb and is in the Hollow Flake now.
第十四段
空石片平台
1000英尺
"Free Rider"的情况就是 "空石片平台" And then the thing about Free Rider is that from the base of Hollow Flake
一直到山顶都是裂缝地况 大概有六百多米 it's one crack system all the way to the top which is like what, 2,000 feet?
这是地球上最壮观的裂缝 That's the most magnificent crack on planet earth.
第十四段 空石片平台
道格 我是Jimmy Doug, this is Jimmy.
第十九段 怪兽大裂缝
他们有没有用无线电联系过 他有没有到"怪兽大裂缝" Do you know if they've radioed if he's gotten to the Monster yet?
对 他现在到那了 Yeah, he's there now.
他马上要通过了 He's almost through it.
他现在要上去了 There, he's coming up now actually.
现在我们看到他和岩尖一样高 Now we see him like at the same height as the spire.
但你们都准备好了吗 But you guys are all in position ready to go?
准备好了 山姆和我在山墙的底下 Yeah, Sam and I are at the bottom of the head wall.
我猜他距"抱石难题"还有15分钟左右 My guess is he's 15 minutes from the Boulder Problem or so.
第二十三段
抱石难题
2050英尺
他刚做了空手道踢 He just did the karate kick.
他成功了 He's got it.
哦耶 Oh, yeah.
这一路太艰难了 That is way too gnarly.
-噢 天呐 -他做到了 - Oh, my God. - He did it. Jesus.
第二十三段 抱石难题
他刚过了"抱石难题" He just sent the Boulder Problem.
第二十六段 耐力角
他肯定很兴奋 He must be so stoked.
我是说通过"极限大光板"和"抱石难题"太有纪念意义了 I mean to have the slabs and the boulder problem behind him is monumental.
-这是"耐力角"对吧 -对 这是"耐力角" - Here's the Enduro huh? - Yup, this is the Enduro.
真不敢相信你们居然还敢看 I can't believe you guys are actually gonna watch.
噢不 我不想看 我不 不想看 Oh, I don't wanna, I don't, I don't, I don't, I don't, no, no.
第二十七段
横攀段
2500英尺
噢 我的天呐 Oh, my God.
对 就是那个地方暴露感很强 Yeah, that's kind of exposed right there.
上帝啊 这太险了 Oh, my God, it's so exposed.
他那漂亮的一步可算是 That arête move as he stepped around has gotta be,
酋长岩暴露感最强的地方 I mean that's one of the most exposed moves
那一步移动真是 like anywhere on El Cap.
一旦你踩空 就摔下去了 If you just step out, it all drops away.
好样的 哥们儿 Yeah, buddy.
今天是Alex人生中最精彩的一天了 Alex is having the best day of his life.
可不是我最精彩的一天 I don't know. Not me.
我受够了 这是最后一次了 我不干了 以后再也不拍Free Solo了 I'm done, yeah, no, this is it, I don't, we don't need to do this again.
不干了 Yeah, no.
第三十一段
最终段
2980英尺
他要登顶了 It's over now.
天哪 他成功了 耶 Oh, God, it's done, woo-hoo!
天啊 Oh, God.
天 哇塞 Oh, God, wow.
妈呀 我见证了这次攀岩 简直不敢相信 Oh, my God, I can't believe what I just witnessed.
天哪 Oh, God.
再见到你真是太好了 Good to see you again, yay.
哇 Wow!
我太高兴了 So delighted.
感觉太棒了 兴奋死了 That felt so good, it's freaking raged.
感觉肩上卸下了一副重担 Like a gigantic weight off of my shoulders too.
我真的紧张死了 I have to admit, I mean.
我太高兴了 这次攀岩酷毙了 So delighted, what a journey.
我都不敢相信 梦想了八年之后... Yeah, I just can't even believe after eight years of dreaming,
哦 桑桑来电话了 oh San-san's calling me.
喂 Hello?
对 我特别开心 Yeah, so delighted.
哎呀 特别开心 你这形容得也太保守了 Oh my, you're so delighted, that's putting it lightly.
我从来没笑得这么开心 不要说什么太... I've like never smiled so much. Don't say anything too.
我想看看 你现在的表情 I wanna see it. What's that?
我跟你说过 我想看到你脸上的笑容 Like, I told you I wanted to see that smile.
是呀 我知道 Yeah, I know.
我从来没哭得这么夸张 我根本没想到 I've like never cried so hard and I didn't even see it coming.
你现在还能说话 我都不知道说什么好 Showing that you talk now, I was just like "Blah."
哎呀 别呀 我有点 Yeah, no, I'm, I'm sort of at,
我现在也有点想哭 我情绪挺激动的 at risk of crying here too, I'm like, I feel quite emotional.
别哭呀 桑桑 要不我也要哭了 Yeah, no, don't cry San-san it will make me cry.
不过克莱尔让我哭出来 But Claire says cry it.
我猜如果我放声痛哭的话 电影会更精彩 但是我 I think the movie would be better if I burst into tears, but I,
我真不想在摄像机前哭 I don't really want to.
不过我确实很想哭 But, well I do want to kind of, but.
我太高兴了 I'm so happy.
天哪 Oh, God.
我太高兴了 I'm so happy.
嗯 Yeah.
我太高兴了 I'm so happy.
好啦 好啦 Well, okay.
我马上就见到你啦 再有六小时我就到了 I'll see you, I'll see you in like six hours or something.
一会儿见 And I'll see you soon, yeah.
好的 我爱你 Yeah, okay, I love you.
谢谢你 我超喜欢你的 Thank you so much, I appreciate you.
我也爱你 I love you too.
你是 你是最棒的 You're, you're the best.
我也超喜欢你 我为你而骄傲 And I appreciate you and I'm really proud of you.
嗯 Yay.
我不知道 I don't know.
今天早上我看到这山的时候 我没觉得它这么吓人 I don't, I don't think the mountain looked that scary this morning.
很有意思 因为它看起来一点没变 而且 It's funny because it does look the same and hiking up looked the same,
登上去了看起来也没变 感觉一切都没变 everything just felt pretty much the same, except I just didn't have
除了我背包里没背太多东西 much of a backpack.
我确实是 忘记了我的绳子和岩塞 I did, I forgot my rope and rack.
感觉棒呆了 I felt so good.
这次经历就跟我之前想象的一样 我这么开心是因为 I mean that's why I'm so happy that the experience was like what I hoped for.
我没有向任何一样东西妥协 即使它们曾经对我无比重要 I didn't compromise on any of the things that were super important to me.
嗯 没错 这感觉很棒 Huh, yeah, that felt good.
好的 All right.
所以下一步呢 你打算做什么 Alex? So what's next, what are you gonna do Alex?
唔 我应该会做指力板悬挂训练 Mmm, I'm probably gonna hang board.
你要做悬挂训练? You're gonna hang board?
一个正常人大概会休息一个下午 A normal person would probably take the afternoon off.
2017年6月3日 Alex Honnold徒手 攀登上了酋长岩 是世界第一人
耗时三小时五十六分钟
汤米·卡尔德沃 通话中
谢谢你陪我来攀岩 Thanks again for coming out and climbing with me.
我由衷地为你骄傲 I'm really proud of you.
干得漂亮 没掉下悬崖摔死 Good work not plummeting to your death.
这次攀岩结束了 我真的太高兴了 Really glad it's over.
哦天哪 你在这儿呀 天哪 Oh, my gosh, you're here, oh, my God!
天 我太高兴了 你去了 而且成功了 Oh, my gosh, I'm so happy for you, you did it and you're done.
你知道吗 有些比你先来这里的人 You know some of the people that have come before you,
向上爬的时候都没有半途而废 they, they didn't quit while they were ahead.
也许是件好事 Maybe it's good.
这样我就不用一直往上冲了 Maybe I don't need to keep charging ahead.
此时此刻 有些孩子刚刚读到 有人无保护攀上了酋长岩 Right now there's some kid that just read about El Cap being soloed and he's like.
他会问 "什么山更高" "What's bigger?"
或者 "什么事更酷" Like "What's cooler?"
总有人会想出更酷的事情去做 And I mean somebody's gonna think of something and it's gonna be cooler.
不过我不知道那人会不会是我 也许吧 我也不知道 But I don't know if that will be me. Maybe, I don't know.
谨以此片纪念
金太平 安·克里克 乌利·斯泰克