This is a story about clothing 这是一个与服装有关的故事
it's about the clothes we wear 例如我们穿的衣服
people who make these clothes 制作服装的人
and the impact that its having in the world 以及服装对世界的影响
It's a story about greed and fear 这个故事还涉及到贪婪与恐惧
power and profit 权力和利益
It's complex 它很复杂
as it extends all the way around the world 涉及到世界各地
But it's also simple 同时也很简单
revealing just how connected we are to many hearts and hands behind our clothes 揭示着我们是怎样被服装背后的心灵和双手连接在一起的
I came in with this story with no background of fashion at all 我当初接触这个故事时对时装一无所知
Beginning with nothing more than a few simple questions 仅仅是有几个问题而已
What I discovered has forever changed the way I think about the things I wear 而我所发现的永远改变了我对服装的看法
And my hope is that it might just do the same for you 我希望你也能有所触动
Maybe just start in saying your name, and talk about how this kinda beginner 就从自我介绍开始吧，再谈谈你的初衷是什么
My name is Lucy Siegle, I am a journalist and a broadcaster based in UK 我是Lucy Siegle，我是一名在英国工作的记者和广播员
And I have been obsessed consumed with environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry for about a decade 时装业对环境和社会的影响一直让我寝食难安 长达十年之久
Well, I love everything about clothes 我爱服装的一切
You know, I love, I love the poetry 我爱它的诗意
I love the fabric, I love the colours 它的材质 它的颜色
I love the textures, I love the way they make you feel 它的质地 它的手感
You know, they are our chosen skin 它就像是我们的另一层肌肤
well, I had the classic massive closet 我有个经典超大的衣橱
clothes everywhere 衣服到处都是
bags constantly coming in to my house, you know, everyday, every other day with some other items in 我几乎每天都有邮包送到我家 当然也不全是衣服
I never had anything to wear, I can never put together a coherent outfit 可我还是不知道穿什么 我都不知道怎么去搭配
We communicate who we are to ??? through clothing 我们通过时装来与彼此沟通
and this is, this is again throughout history you know, you have the translucent code, you know like Marie Antoinette making this huge hot... 纵观历史 这就如同...?
It's always been, it's been our personal communication in many ways 在许多许多方面 这就是我们的个人交流方式
that's what interests me 我对此很感兴趣
that it is fundamentally a part of what we wish to communicate about us ourselves 从根本上说 它就是我们想对外界展示的一部分
We used to have a system, a fashion system 我们曾经有一个时尚体系
where people will go to the shows, they produce in spring, summer, also winter 大家都喜欢去看他们的时装秀——春装 夏装 还有冬装
And this kind run like clock work for very many years 如此这般 持续了多年
OK, ripe that out, throw that out of the window 然而 此一时彼一时
That has absolutely nothing to do with the fashion industry today 这与当今的时装业已毫无瓜葛
It has been reinvented 这是一个全新的行业
The shift is moving ruthlessly towards a way of producing 这个行业的转变在于其彻底改变了生产方式
which only really looks after big business interest 然而 这仅仅是为了大公司的利益
Growing up, I never give much thought to anything other than price of the clothes I brought 从小到大 我买衣服时从来只考虑价格问题
usually making choices based in style or a good deal 要么看样式 要么看折扣
Looking back, I've learned for a long time, most of our clothing were actually made right here in America 回看以往 我了解到 在很长一段时间里 我们大部分衣服都是在美国本土生产的
As recently as 1960s, we were still making 95% of our clothes 例如在上世纪六十年代就占到95%
Today, we only make about 3%, and the other 97% is outsourced to developing countries around the world 现如今却只占3% 剩余的97%则外包给了各个发展中国家
I've been in the business for over nine years now 我做服装生意已经有九年了
In terms of scale, we have got about 25,000 people just in garment factory site 从规模上来说 光服装厂我们就有25,000名员工
we produce one in six dresses sold in US 美国六分之一的衣服是由我们生产的