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先吃兩個試試

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這種水浮子 落塘蒲 現代妃子笑 玉荷包

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講得複雜 其實大家早已非常熟悉

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果形大 綠里透紅 酸酸甜甜 汁液豐富 略顯水分發散

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天時暑熱 稍作冷藏 令人無比舒暢

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焦核比例大 即果核萎縮成雞舌狀

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五月最早的好多來自海南 那邊特別早熟

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接著到這種 白糖罌

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一個裝滿白糖的罌 甜到入心

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顏色不太深紅 白衣薄殼 裂片平滑

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坑紋淺 無刺 大小中等

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另一荔枝之鄉茂名 那裡這種白糖罌尤為出色

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甜度更高更純 同期貨略貴於妃子笑

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但荔枝價格浮動 

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妃子笑初出獨佔早熟市場會略貴 還看新鮮度

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切莫據網上文章配圖認荔枝

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作者多數來自無荔枝之地 找不到實物 亂配圖

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說到荔枝品級 史上曾有兩越之爭

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閩越南越兩地文人相持不下

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大多鄉曲之見 偏愛自己故鄉特產

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人之常情 我們每個人都會

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其中影響力最大是上節提到的蔡襄《荔枝譜》

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他是福建人

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他認為“南越荔枝精好者 僅比東閩之下等”

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蔡襄有無吃過嶺南荔枝？

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有 吃過一種

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移植到閩越的 他稱作火山

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他吃到的火山是“四月熟 味甘酸而肉薄”

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於是便以為嶺南荔枝都是早熟 肉薄味酸

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他不知道嶺南荔枝分兩大類 山枝 水枝

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水枝屬水 雖然荔枝本屬火

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但靠水種植的在荔枝之中屬水

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所以水枝屬水 山枝屬火又叫火山

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只要不是水枝 全都是火山

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新興香荔 增城掛綠等極品都屬火山

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水枝不是不好 也有黑葉等水枝名種

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只是屬性不同 古人慣用陰陽五行對事物分類

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火山類較多是遲熟品種

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善變 滋味百出 隨其土為高下

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不易隨便移植

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荔枝某些品種適應性強 宜推廣種植 可保產量品質

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另外有些則不然

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我想未必嚴格按水火劃分

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因種而異 要試驗出當地氣候水土適合的品種

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當時某種火山移植到福建

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荔枝屬火 火山是火上加火 

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南越以火德王

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移到較少火之地 遲熟變早熟 生長週期都亂了

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變得味酸肉薄核大

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與當時閩中名種相比 自然不如

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眾多非閩非廣人仕評價 以及歷代皇室貢品清單

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均以嶺南荔枝為上品

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嶺南地方偏僻 最難為中原人仕熟悉

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反而嶺南荔枝顯揚最早 其名最著

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閩廣荔枝之爭到近代亦基本平息

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大量生產銷售的荔枝

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福建人都種黑葉 玉荷包等嶺南品種

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而嶺南荔枝以增城掛綠為首

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其實掛綠荔枝今天也主要是個文化意義

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增生水土黃潤多沙 潮味不到

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荔枝普遍濃香純甜 最大特點是爽口

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增城眾多名種上品 一定要試

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而同增城掛綠並稱荔枝三傑的

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是蘿崗桂味和筆村糯米糍

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筆村古稱北村 屬鹿步司 也是蘿崗地方

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本節先來見識一下 蘿崗雙傑

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蘿崗香雪要到冬天才有

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適逢鐘氏玉喦書院長時間保護修繕後上兩月剛重開

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這是廣州最古老保存最好的書院

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來到蘿崗必須遊覽一番

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依山而建的建築

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這叫七簷滴水格

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雨水經七重屋簷 滴到這水池

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據說當年皇帝恩准修建

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普通人家這樣建是僭越 好大罪

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一些名人住過的房間

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流水潺潺

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窗外全是荔枝樹

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來到玉喦書院 蘿峰寺

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必須來看這棵千年荔枝王

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它不但是廣州最老的荔枝 也是廣州最老的喬木

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廣州古樹名木清單里排第二 第一是棵藤本

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一個過千年的生命 看遍世間滄桑變幻

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其中一邊已中空 但依然茂盛

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還開花結果 只是今年沒有

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這山頭遍佈百年古荔枝樹

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廣州古樹名木11499棵

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數字是林業部門多年歷次統計各區數字組合而成

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最近一次普查已是2014年公佈

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這段時間里許多古樹在開發建設中遭破壞

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又有病蟲 颱風等原因死亡

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另有許多原本未到百歲的樹木進入百年古樹行列

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無論如何 廣州古樹中 荔枝是壓倒性最多

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這在冊一萬一千多棵古樹中

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過半數 五千九百多棵都是荔枝樹 

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整個廣東的百年古樹中

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荔枝的比例亦僅次於榕樹排第二

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荔枝是嶺南文化中極為重要的植物

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而蘿崗是貢獻最多這些百年荔枝樹的地區

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好多古荔枝樹群落

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蘿崗荔枝最大特色就是老樹荔枝居多

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是他們的種植傳統

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地鐵附近就是荔枝市場

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今年荔枝失收 價格不能同去年比 十倍都可能出現

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較上好的桂味要四十元以上一斤

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糯米糍又稍貴少許

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當然也有較便宜的 要看新鮮度

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糯米糍 桂味兩個品種

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可以說雄霸當今荔枝市場 最為大家熟悉

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有時候其他荔枝被充當糯米糍

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甚至其他也是名種由於消費者不認識

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反正圓滑無刺就當作糯米糍

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桂味則難以冒認 特征顯著

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大小中等 紅中帶綠為佳

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刺凸扎手 但不如落塘蒲刺密 裂片較闊

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整個裂片形成錐形 而不是刺突出於裂片之上

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果蒂正多斜少 上面節位好清晰

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糯米糍果大無刺 坑紋明顯較深 裂片闊大

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好多公領孫現象 即側生小果

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也有這種雙生果 稱丫髻

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糯米糍也有不同品種

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這種更深紅 裂片更凸出

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叫雙肩紅 有些當地人叫雙皮紅 較厚殼

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外表略似增城進奉 但是不同品種 那種容後再表

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兩種糯米糍價格相仿 

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都是肉大 焦核率極高 

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多汁 濃甜 嫩滑無渣 超級滿足

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桂味則明顯水分收束更好 更爽口

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也大多數焦核 香氣更重

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有人說像桂花香 我感覺荔枝香是獨一無二

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不僅用鼻去聞

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吃下去時 鼻咽之間

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荔枝香氣上湧

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荔枝雙傑 各擅勝場

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個人口味 結合價錢 我會稍稍傾向桂味 

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但荔枝不同品種對照來吃才更過癮

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而要試更多廣州名種

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下節還須再訪荔枝聖地 增城