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翻譯：斑駁的小屋 臉盆王子 Jacqueline 臨風公子
校對：ntexplorer
后期：L.C.
海洋孕育了我們 We all come from the sea,
但并非所有人都為海而生 but we are not all of the sea.
我們中那些海浪之子 Those of us who are, we children of the tides,
必須不斷地回歸海洋 must return to it again and again.
沖浪英豪
根據真實故事改編
四 五 Four a thousand. Five a thousand.
六 七 Six a thousand. Seven a thousand.
八 九 Eight a thousand. Nine a thousand.
一 二 One a thousand. Two a thousand.
三 四 Three a thousand. Four a thousand.
五 六 Five a thousand. Six a thousand.
七 八 Seven a thousand. Eight a thousand.
去 追那個球 Go. Ball. Go over there!
銜回來 銜回來 Pick it up, pick it up, pick it up.
十 十一 Ten a thousand. Eleven a thousand.
走吧 杰伊 快下雨了 Come on, Jay, let's go! We're gonna get wet.
看到沒 Man, did you see that?
浪越來越大了 It's building!
這是我見過持續時間最長的 That was the longest one yet.
一 二 One a thousand. Two a thousand.
三 四 Three a thousand. Four a thousand.
-五...-蘇菲 別去 - Five... - Sophie, no!
杰伊 不 小心 Jay, no! Look out!
杰伊 Jay!
還好意思笑 小男子漢 Oh, yeah, you're smiling now, big shot.
要不是我那會正巧在礁石區附近 But if l hadn't paddled around the Point at that exact moment...
簡直就是奇跡啊 奇跡 It's a miracle, that's what it is.
我才不信什么奇跡 你多大了 And I don't believe in miracles. How old are you?
六歲還是七歲 What, 6, 7?
八歲 Eight.
零九個月 先生 And three quarters, sir.
你剛用光了老天爺給你的好運氣 Well, you just used up your entire allotment of dumb luck.
給你出個主意 Here's a novel idea.
下次約會的時候 去游樂園吧 On your next little date, why don't you go to the arcade
打兒童高爾夫也行 or pee-wee golfing.
為3至11歲兒童設計的高爾夫游樂園
反正別再玩這種要你命的游戲了 Or something that doesn't involve getting you killed.
他是在給海浪計時 Because he likes to time the waves.
怎么 你是喜歡啊 What? You do.
什么叫給海浪計時 What do you mean, time the waves?
觀察浪潮的漲落 Um, to see if the swell is building or dropping.
一陣波浪中 相鄰兩波海浪間隔的時間越長 The more seconds between them, each wave in a set,
浪就越大 it means it's getting bigger.
誰教你的 Who taught you that?
沒人教我 先生 Nobody, sir.
我自己發現的 Just figured it out.
你自己發現了這個規律 You just figured that out on your own?
好吧 Okay.
圣克魯茲 加利福尼亞 1987
謝謝 拜拜 Thanks. Bye.
-拜拜 -再見 - Bye. Okay. - Bye.
直接回家 聽到沒 Go straight inside, all right?
帶上車門 Close the door.
又怎么了 What now?
你覺得那個浪有多大 先生 How big you reckon that wave was, sir?
孩子 世界雖然很小 It's a small world, kid,
但是人們測量海浪大小的方式 but how they gauge the size of waves, well,
也因地域而略有不同 所以不好說 that differs from place to place. So, hard to say.
那別處可能會有更大的浪咯 So it might be bigger somewhere else?
那浪已經夠大了 知道嗎 Look, it was definitely big enough, okay?
就像我說的 世界很小 Like I said, kid, small world.
謝謝你救了蘇菲 杰伊 I appreciate you saving Sophie, Jay.
這是我見到的最勇敢的一件事 One of the bravest things I've ever seen.
媽 Mom?
美國軍隊儲蓄
寶貝 Hi, baby.
對不起 媽媽不太舒服 Unh. Sorry, Mama's not feeling so good.
別擔心 Don't worry,
爸爸會改變主意的 Dad will change his mind.
冰箱里有熱狗 There are hot dogs in the fridge.
杰伊
嗨 Hey.
-嗨 -要幫忙嗎 - Hey. - Need a hand?
幫我沖咖啡還是修柜子 What with, the coffee or the cupboard?
你又錯過和羅克爾說晚安了 Uh, you just missed Roque again.
剛安撫她睡著 Just put her down.
下班后幫朋友辦事兒去了 I had to help a friend out after work.
我會去給她一個晚安吻的 I'll go in, I'll give her a kiss.
晚安吻不錯 Kiss would be nice.
時不時跟她說說話會更好 Conversation every once in a while, maybe nicer.
杰伊 起床了 Time to wake up, Jay.
我看起來怎么樣 Okay. How do I look?
美極了 You look awesome.
我要去西爾斯面試 I have an interview at Sears.
我12點回來 然后咱們去買點文具 So, I'm coming home at 12:00 and we are going to get school supplies.
祝你好運 Good luck.
謝謝 Thank you.
打擾了 女士 Excuse me. Ma'am?
-你好 -您丈夫在家嗎 - Hi. - Your husband home?
那得看問這個問題的是誰 Uh, well, depends on who's asking.
我是杰伊·莫里亞利蒂 女士 I'm Jay Moriarity, ma'am.
他昨天在三英里海那邊救了我 He saved my life down at Three Mile yesterday.
抱歉 小家伙 你弄錯了吧 Oh, sweetie, I'm sorry, I think you're mistaken,
弗洛斯蒂昨晚在斯科特谷鋪屋頂呢 because Frosty was up in Scott's Valley laying roof yesterday.
不 女士 我"用光老天爺給我的好運氣"時 No, ma'am. He was surfing the exact same time,
他就在附近沖浪呢 I used up my allotment of dumb luck.
是嗎 Is that so?
弗洛斯蒂現在在礁石區呢 Frosty is actually down at The Point right now,
不過有什么我幫得上忙的嗎 杰伊·莫里亞利蒂 but is there anything that l can help you with, Jay Moriarity?
我沖浪板尾部的零件似乎沒了 Well, I seem to be missing parts on the bottom of my board.
好吧 Okay.
尾鰭 尾鰭 尾鰭 Fins, fins, fins.
放哪兒去了 Where does he keep them?
他們稱它作"破浪槍" They call that thing a gun.
這是用來駕馭那些滔天猛獸的 It's for riding the really big monsters.
就像那種 Like that.
那是在哪里 Where is that?
自己去問弗洛斯蒂吧 You should ask Frosty yourself.
謝謝 Thanks.
滾開 小混蛋 Beat it, little trash.
布朗迪 你干什么 Blondie, what are you doing?
嗨 伙計 你得往前沖 Hey, man, you got to go in.
你流血了 You're bleeding.
不行 I can't.
我得先站到板上 Not until I get up.
伙計 沒人第一次沖浪就能站起來的 Dude, believe me, nobody gets up their first time.
好吧 好吧 我這么做都是因為 Okay, okay. I'm only doing this
你流的血會把鯊魚招來的 because you're gonna start attracting sharks with all that blood.
我說"現在"的時候 When I say "Now",
你就拼命往岸邊劃 明白嗎 you paddle as hard as you can towards shore, you got it?
-現在 -不 - Now? - No.
-現在 -對 劃 使勁劃 - Now? - Yeah! Paddle, paddle, paddle!
我會醒來嗎 那只是我做的一個夢嗎 Will I wake up? Is it some dream I made up?
不 那是現實吧 No, I guess it's reality
什么會改變我們 或是會陷入困境 What will change us? Or will we mess up
這是我們唯一的機會追逐夢想 Our only chance to connect with a dream?
為我祈禱吧 Say a prayer for me
我被這聲音淹沒 I'm buried by the sound
劃 劃 使勁劃 現在 Hey, paddle. Paddle, paddle, paddle! Now!
加油 加油 Go, go, go!
你抄我臺詞 You stealing a page out of my playbook there?
情不自禁啊 布朗迪 Couldn't help myself, Blondie.
這話總是在我腦子里盤旋 It's always been a keeper.
小混蛋 Hey, little trash.
問你個問題 Got a question for you.
拿那么長的沖浪板 What exactly are you trying to compensate for
是不是你覺得自己哪里太短啊 with this long board of yours? Huh?
看你拿個球棒 我也想問同樣的問題呢 I was about to ask you the same thing about that bat.
都給我回來 聽到沒 Y'all come back now, you hear?
-大伙兒 出發了 -好的 來了 - Come on, let's go! - Okay, okay, we're coming.
今天吧 拜托 Sometime today, please.
-嗨 金 -嗨 - Hey, Kim. - Hi!
玩的怎么樣 How was it out there?
不錯 浪越來越大了 Feels good. Feels like the swell is building.
是嗎 你沒計時嗎 Yeah? Did you time it?
金米 上車 要出發了 Kimmy, come on, we got to go.
好吧 有機會海邊見吧 Um, all right, well, maybe I'll see you out there.
回見 Later.
放手吧 伙計 Let her be, dude.
她對你來說太老了 She's too old for you.
滾 滾出我家 Get out! Get out of my house! Aah!
-下來 -媽媽 - Get down! - Mom!
待那兒別動 我受夠了 離我遠點 And you stay down there! I'm tired of this! Get off me! Okay?
-媽 -我哪兒都不去 - Mom! - I'm not going anywhere!
杰伊 Jay.
冷靜 孩子 我來收房租而已 她抓著我不放 Easy, kid. This is about back rent! She tried grabbing me!
-我只是...-他欠我們錢 - All I did... - He owes us money!
-放開我 -別打了 - Get off me! Unh! - No!
冷靜 孩子 Take it easy, kid!
-杰伊 別打了 -杰伊 - Jay! No! - Jay!
杰伊 住手 住手 杰伊 Jay, stop, stop! Jay!
警察 警察 Cops! Cops!
警察來了 住手 They're coming! Come on!
別打了 把他們拉開 Hey, hey! Break it up! Break it up!
放開我 Get off me!
這里是維克多-1-2 在出警現場 This is Victor-1-2. We're on the scene.
近海浮標顯示浪高于16秒內達25英尺 Offshore buoys are reporting seas of 25 feet at 16 seconds.
風向為西北方向295度 Coming from the west northwest at 295 degrees.
西北風風力預計為15至20海里 Northwest winds are forecasted at 15 to 20 knots.
近海海域浪高預計可于17秒達28英尺 Swells are expected to reach up to 28 feet at 17 seconds near shore.
-早 弗蘭克 -注意周圍 孩子 - Morning, Frank. - Careful out there, son.
伙計 別來無恙 Hey, buddy. What's up?
今天浪潮又變大了啊 各位 Next level out there today, boys.
16秒達到25英尺 Twenty-five at 16.
來狂歡吧 Let's rock and roll.
好 Right.
開始吧 Let's do it.
好樣的 弗洛斯蒂 Yeah, Frosty!
且不說你是怎么來這兒的 Now, we'll agree to forget how you got up here,
現在最重要的是 but as far as most are concerned,
那兒的浪還是個謎 就像尼斯湖水怪一般 that wave's a myth. Like a Loch Ness monster.
我們四人想讓那個地方保持神秘 The four of us who surf there want to keep it that way.
明白了嗎 Is that clear?
浮標顯示浪高將于17秒內達到28英尺... Buoys reporting swells of 28 feet at 17 seconds coming from...
-那個浪有多大 -你聽明白我的話沒 - How big was that wave? - Did you hear what I just said?
明白了 先生 Yes, sir.
尼斯湖水怪 Loch Ness monster.
家里現在怎么樣了 How's it going over there?
我家后室不出租了 Mom's not renting out the back anymore.
我可以有自己的房間了 Means I get my own room.
但我得在歡樂披薩多打一份工 But I got to double-up my shifts at Pleasure Pizza.
你爸爸呢 And your father?
他幾年前從巴拿馬的駐地給我寫了一封信 He wrote me a letter a few years back from his base in Panama.
都說了些什么 So what'd he say?
不知道 I don't know.
我從沒打開那封信 Never opened it.
好吧 我得走了 還得干活呢 All right, well, i got to get out of here. Got to get to work.
先生 我也想挑戰那里的巨浪 Hey, sir, I want to ride that wave.
我想在那兒沖浪 I want to take that drop.
不可能 Not gonna happen.
為什么 Why not?
沒經過訓練的菜鳥不可能 Because untrained boys don't step in the ring
美國著名黑人拳擊手 曾獲世界重量級冠軍
和邁克·泰森同臺競技 這就是原因 with Mike Tyson, that's why.
我能搞定 I can handle it.
不是你說行就行的 You don't just do it.
伙計 我在那兒沖浪20年了 Buddy, I've been surfing that break for 20 years.
你知道需要多少智謀勇氣 You have any idea how much strength and know-how you need
才能從那巨浪下逃脫出來嗎 to survive a break like that?
弗洛斯蒂 我每天都在變強 我能堅持 Frosty, I'm getting stronger by the day. I'll hold my own.
-每天變強是吧 -是啊 - Stronger by the day, huh? - Yeah.
來 把手給我 Okay, give me your hand.
現在掙脫 Now resist me.
這就是你最大的力氣了嗎 Okay, that all you got?
是嗎 就這么點 Is that it? Is that it?
好吧 你還是不夠強壯 Okay. You ain't strong enough.
那我每天都去練習沖浪行嗎 Right now, I'm surfing every single day, right?
-如果我...-閉嘴 - So, if I... - Shut up, all right?
我知道你有多大本事 Now, I know how good you are.
我看過你沖浪 I've seen you out there.
和那幫小子沖浪你可以來去自如 You surf circles around those other kids.
但那只是普通的浪 But those are normal waves.
普通沖浪考驗的是沒有發生意外時 Surfing normal waves is about how you perform
你的表現如何 when everything goes right.
但挑戰巨浪則是另一碼事兒 Now, big-wave surfing, that's a different ball game.
那是考驗當周圍險象環生時你如何應對 That's about how you perform when everything goes wrong.
稍有不慎被波浪擊中 One bump off the face of that wave,
就好比以時速50英里撞墻一般 and you're hitting the water like concrete at 50 miles an hour.
同時上千噸水向你洶涌砸來 And you got a thousand tons of water coming down on top of you.
海浪會打暈你 撕碎你 It's knocking you senseless, ripping you apart,
把你推向一個深不見底 and pushing you down to a place that is so deep
黑暗無邊的深淵 and so dark, you don't want to be there.
那你為什么還去 So why do it?
走吧 我還有工作要做 Heh. Come on, get out of here. I got work to do.
訓練我吧 教我如何駕馭它 Train me, then. Train me to ride it.
你聽我說的話了嗎 Did you hear what I said?
快走吧 Go on, get.
你還是不明白 是嗎 You don't get it, do you?
什么 What?
孩子有很多種 弗洛斯蒂 There are all kinds of sons, Frosty, you know?
有的因你而生 有的則為你而生 Some are born to you and some just occur to you.
杰伊將你當作一生的榜樣 Jay has looked up to you his entire life.
難道你看不出他有多需要你嗎 I mean, can't you see how much he needs you?
你希望我教他如何沖那道浪 You want me to teach him to surf that wave?
他還是個孩子 He's a kid.
你還讓我保證不到那里 You made me promise I wouldn't even surf that...
是啊 但你千方百計也要去 Yeah, and you break that promise every chance you get.
你以為我不知道你今天早上去哪兒了 You think I don't know where you were this morning?
我聽到收音機里播的了 I heard the message on the machine.
"16秒25英尺" 拜托 "25 at 16"? Come on.
我不知道你說這話什么意思 I don't know where you're going with this.
無論如何那孩子都會去挑戰那里的巨浪的 That boy's gonna surf that wave anyway.
你心里清楚 You know that, right?
即使他會死在那里 Even if he dies trying.
難道你不會嗎 I mean, wouldn't you?
她讓你永不放棄夢想 She's the one that keeps the dream alive
兩份夏威夷 兩份圣巴巴拉 Okay, two Hawaiians, two Santa Barbara,
一份意大利辣香腸一份奶酪 好了 one pepperoni and one cheese. All right.
謝謝 Thank you.
伙計 伙計 Dude. Dude.
先放醬料 再放奶酪 最后才是餅頂配料 It goes, first sauce, then cheese, then toppings.
這又不是造火箭 It's not rocket science.
你還好嗎 怎么心不在焉的 You all right? You haven't been here since you got here, man.
有沒有什么事讓你賴以生存至今 You ever see and you think like, it's the reason you were put here?
仿佛為它而生一般 I mean, like, on this earth?
當然有 伙計 Sure, man.
每次我看《海岸救生隊》的時候 Every time I turn on Baywatch.
著名美劇
好了 繼續干活吧 歡樂披薩 歡迎光臨 Right, keep it moving. Pleasure Pizza. Okay.
布朗迪 我出去下 Hey, Blond, I'll be right back.
稍等 稍等 Hold on, hold on.
伙計 你要去哪兒 Hey, dude, where are you going now?
-一會兒就回來 -我會累死的 - I'll be right back. - You're killing me here!
-先生 -這樣吧 - Hi, sir. - Okay, here's the deal.
我只會教你一件事 I'm gonna train you for one thing and for one thing only:
就是如何在巨浪中求生 知道為什么嗎 To survive that wave. All right? You want to know why?
因為我良心上過不去 僅此而已 Because I don't want it on my conscience. That's it.
不許問問題 不許討價還價 No questions, no arguing, end of story.
我教你應該掌握的技能 僅此而已 I teach you what you need to know, and it's over.
明白了嗎 You got it?
明白了 Got it.
沒人知道那個沖浪點 Now, the reason no one knows about this wave
是因為那些大浪都從西北方向涌來 is because it only happens on big northwest swells.
這些海浪只會存在12周 And the window for those swells closes in 12 weeks.
所以你也只有12個星期的時間 So you got 12 weeks.
明早六點半到我家小屋找我 Meet me in my shed tomorrow morning, 6:30 a.m.
多一分鐘也不行 not 6:31 or 6:32.
太好了 太好了 Yes! Yes! Yes!
別拿那個了 今天不沖浪 Don't bother with that. We're not surfing.
今天用槳葉式沖浪板 Paddleboards.
好了 All right.
開始之前 我們要先確定幾件事 A few things we need to establish before we begin.
首先 First...
別撞弗洛斯蒂的沖浪板 也別磕鄰居的車 thou shalt not ding Frosty's board or damage thy neighbor's car.
好的 對不起 先生 Yes, sir. Sorry, sir.
其次 這個小計劃 Second, this little, uh, program,
目的在于建立 is all about building what I like to call
人類堅實基礎的四大支柱 明白嗎 the four pillars of a solid human foundation. Understand?
-明白 先生 -怎么可能 - Yes, sir. - How could you?
我還沒告訴你它們是什么呢 I haven't even told you what they are.
平穩節奏 Steady rhythm.
滑行推進 Drive and glide.
人類堅實基礎的四大支柱 The four pillars of the human foundation
就是體能 意志 情緒 精神 are the physical, the mental, the emotional and the spiritual.
我承認這層面的確有點抽象 Though I admit to being a little bit wobbly in that department.
我沒聽太懂 先生 I'm not sure I understand, sir.
你知道什么叫命題嗎 You know what a thesis is?
-一個觀點 -對 - Uh, an idea. - Exactly.
闡明事物的觀點 An idea which attempts to explain something.
通過展開敘述從而印證或反駁 Lays it out to be proved or disproved.
我們的命題是 So here's our thesis:
從圣克魯斯到蒙特利 It's 36 miles across the bay
需要穿越一個36英里的海灣 from Santa Cruz to Monterey.
你能劃到那么遠之日 The day that you can paddle that far,
便是你能挑戰馬弗瑞克斯之時 will be the day you're ready to surf Mavericks.
可不是一日之功 Not a moment sooner.
弗洛斯蒂 這不可能 Frosty, that's impossible.
少見多怪 Oh, more so than you know.
所以體能指的就是 So the physical will represent
劃行所需的身體力量 the sheer strength needed to make the paddle.
從今天起這是你每日的必修課 So you're gonna be doing this from now on, every day.
持續12周 12 weeks.
而意志將取決于你做的研究 And the mental will be tied to your own research.
潮汐和浪涌的計算 The calculation of the tides and swells,
當然 還包括駕馭它們的能力 and, of course, your ability to navigate them all.
蒙特利跟馬弗瑞克斯杠上了 So, Monterey equals Mavericks.
一言為定 Deal?
-一言為定 -很好 - Deal. - Good.
我只需你母親簽一份 All I need is for your mom to sign me a permission slip
風險自擔的免責協議書即可 accepting responsibility for anything that's gonna happen along the way.
弗洛斯蒂 Frosty.
弗洛斯蒂 如果她不同意簽呢 Hey, Frosty, what if she doesn't sign it?
深呼吸 平穩節奏 滑行推進 Deep breaths, steady rhythm. Drive and glide.
蘇菲 你好嗎 狗狗 Hey, Sophie. What's up, girl?
來這 蘇菲 Come here, Sophie.
蘇菲 你在這干嘛 Sophie. What are you... What are you doing here?
我爸媽都已經睡了 My parents are asleep.
你能用我媽的簽名幫我簽一份許可協議嗎 Can you sign me a permission slip with my mom's signature on it?
我的字太丑了 My handwriting blows.
什么許可協議 Heh. A permission slip? For what?
好吧 我沒告訴過任何人呢 Okay, I haven't told this to anyone,
你得幫我保密 so you have to promise to keep it a secret.
好吧 我答應你 Okay, promise.
是馬弗瑞克斯 它真的存在 It's Mavericks. I mean, it's real.
也許是世界上最大的海浪 Maybe the biggest wave in the world.
我親眼所見 就在岸邊 I've seen it with my own eyes, it's right up the coast.
弗洛斯蒂要教我沖那個浪 Frosty's gonna train me to surf it.
馬弗瑞克斯 誰信啊 Mavericks? No one believes that.
我發誓 你前所未見 I swear, it's like nothing you've ever seen before.
如果要經我媽允許的話 And if I ask my mom for permission,
只是讓她有機會以媽媽的口吻教育我 It'll just give her an excuse to act like my mom for once
而且她可能不會同意 and she'll probably say no.
你真漂亮 You look great.
謝謝 Thanks.
這事本應在學校說的 I would've asked you at school,
但你不喜歡被人看到和低年級生在一塊 but I know you don't like being seen in public with younger men, so...
布朗迪 Hey, Blondie.
天氣收音機 89美元
好的 伙計們 All right, fellas.
來吧 比比誰先到滑板池 Come on, race you to the pool.
你得把他們分開 You gotta keep'em separated
遜斃了 Yeah! Sick!
看我的 Get some!
伙計 起來 Yeah, man, get up.
聯誼會今晚開派對 去不 Hollybra's having a party tonight. You clowns going?
好的 聽起來不錯 杰伊 你呢 Yeah, sounds good to me. Jay?
不了 我功課沒做完 還有事情要忙 No, I got school and stuff.
老兄 Dude.
我們都有功課啊 老兄 這不是借口 We all got school, dude. That's no excuse.
每次都這么說 其實他這周都沒來上課 Heard that. Haven't been to class all week.
他還在想自己為何要重讀高二呢 Yeah. The dude actually wonders why he's a second-year sophomore!
你要忙什么 So what kind of stuff you got going?
做點有意義的事兒罷了 Just trying to make sense of everything.
這可才是高中啊 老兄 We're in high school, dude.
哥們 你輕視我 Man you disrespecting me
把他帶走 Take him out
弗洛斯蒂 Hey, Frosty.
才3點40分 It's 20 to 4.
你讓我四點到這兒 You told me to be here at 4.
的確 Exactly.
準備出發了嗎 So, we ready to go?
你覺得呢 Does it look like it?
弄干凈那車道之后就出發 Tell you what, we'll be ready when you clean up that driveway.
這就是你早到20分鐘的功課 That's what you get for being 20 minutes early.
深呼吸 Deep breaths.
肺部要充分舒展 You got to stretch out those lungs.
馬弗瑞克斯那樣的巨浪會淹沒你數分鐘 A wave like Mavericks will hold you down for minutes at a time
且把你拍成肉醬 while it pounds you to a pulp.
如果平時你不能 If you can't hold your breath
閉氣至少4分鐘 for at least four minutes under normal circumstances,
那你就別想著活著劃出來了 then you may as well not even paddle out.
多久了 How long was that?
我當剛才沒有發生過 You know what, I'm not even gonna acknowledge that just happened.
36英里 4分鐘
馬弗瑞克斯
哪兒找到的 Where'd you find that?
在你搬進嬰兒室的梳妝臺里 In the dresser that you moved into the baby's room.
天哪 你真漂亮 God, you're so beautiful.
我知道沖浪是你的熱情所在 Look, um, I know that surfing is
是你的生命 你的解壓方式 your passion and your life, your escape.
我都懂 I get it.
但我需要你給我一個承諾 But I need you to make me a promise.
而且這次我是認真的 And I'm serious this time.
你不能把30英尺高的激情沖浪看得比 That you're not gonna put the rush of a 30-foot drop
你兩個孩子的未來還重要 in front of the future of your two children.
我保證 I promise.
感謝上帝 你是個好男人 God, you're a good man.
好的 Okay.
杰伊在等你 Jay's waiting for you.
媽 Mom!
媽 你得馬上起床 Mom, you got to get up right now!
你6點有個早班 You got a 6:00 shift!
不然你又要被炒魷魚了 媽 You're gonna lose your job again! Mom!
不要吵 Oh, no.
-媽 快點起床啦 -我在起了 - Mom, get up! Come on! - I'm getting up!
你晚了11分鐘 You're 11 minutes late.
是的 抱歉 弗洛斯蒂 Yeah, sorry, Frosty.
因為我媽要給我簽免責協議 You know, my mom... She had to write my permission slip, so...
你媽的字寫得不錯啊 Your mother's got nice handwriting.
是不是費了一番口舌 She take much convincing?
不 No.
還好 Not much.
好的 Good.
那是你的早餐 That your breakfast?
是的 Hm? Yeah.
要想成為一名運動員 You want to be an athlete,
就得吃運動員吃的 吃這個 you got to eat like one. Take this.
來吧 吃了它 你比我更需要它 Go on, take it. You're gonna need it more than me.
謝謝 Thanks.
現在吹南風和東南風 Winds out of the south, southeast,
時速15海里 陣風可達20海里 at 15 knots, gusting to 20 knots.
這就是天氣收音機吧 That's the Weather Radio, huh?
你用它來追蹤大浪 You use it to follow big surf?
有點像你給浪計時那樣 Kind of like you timing the waves.
只是這玩意兒更精確 Only this thing's a little more accurate.
在這里沒法把沖浪板劃到浪區 There's no way to paddle out there,
尤其用的還是長板 especially with long boards.
總會有辦法的 是吧 Oh, there's a way, all right.
看看你能否勝任了 大佬 So let's see if you're worth your salt, chief.
火候不夠啊 Okay, back to baking.
走吧 Let's go.
你使出渾身解數也才劃了30碼 So you made it all of 30 yards.
如果想到浪區的話 If you want to get out there,
起碼要再劃行半英里以上 you got to make it through more than half a mile of this,
才能夠著馬弗瑞克斯 just to get in position of Mavericks.
因此你得保存好你所有的體力 So you've got to conserve all the energy you've got.
好吧 All right.
現在來看看你不足的地方 Now let's take a look at what you missed.
出于某種考慮 Now, for some reason,
你決定徑直劃出這片波浪洶涌的區域 you decided to paddle straight out into that mess.
看看那邊的巖石 Now, take a look at the rocks over there.
發現水流怎樣了 See what's happening with the current?
它沒地方去了 It's got nowhere to go.
沒地方去怎么辦 Nowhere to go but where?
-退回去嗎 -正是 它只好退回去 - Back out? - Exactly, back out.
對沖浪者而言 To a waterman,
這就是一條天然的傳送帶 it's a conveyor belt.
看好了 Watch this.
今天的課 So today's lesson
就是關于觀察的能力 was about the power of observation.
很簡單 現在你有兩個選擇 Simple fact is you got two choices.
你可以霸王硬上弓 You can fight things head-on
或是觀察并遵循自然法則 or you can observe the laws of nature.
如果你觀察得夠仔細 Because if you look hard enough,
自然會有解決的辦法 there's always a way through it.
-說得有理嗎 -是的 先生 - Make sense? - Yes, sir.
好家伙 Good man.
你要以此為題寫一篇論文給我 Because you're going to write me an essay about it.
是一篇3頁不空行的打印體論文 Three pages, typewritten, single-space.
成敗就在你觀察到的細節當中 Devil's in the details of whatever you observe.
是時候開始建立你的意志支柱了 大佬 Time to start building your mental pillar, chief.
金米 Hey, Kimmy.
天哪 你沒事吧 Oh, my gosh! Are you okay?
沒事 Yeah.
伙計 你在干嘛 Oh, man. What are you doing?
我剛下班 Uh, I just got off work.
你呢 You?
我打算去游個泳 Oh, um, I was just trying to go for a swim.
沒想到星期天那么早關門 But I guess they close early on Sundays.
要是你想在晚上游泳的話 You want to go swimming at night,
你就得走后門了 you got to use the back entrance.
也不是那么糟糕嘛 Hey, this isn't so bad.
好吧 我們怎么下去 Okay, so how do we get down?
我只知道一種辦法 There's only one way I know of.
什么 不 你開玩笑嗎 What? No. Are you serious?
不行 No.
杰伊 Jay.
我看見你的車了 也不通知我一聲 I saw your bike. You didn't tell me.
她知道規矩嗎 So she know the rules?
不知道 No.
-讓一下 讓一下 -抱歉 - Clear it. Clear it. - Excuse me.
這有點像花式溜冰 It's kind of like figure skating.
分數取決于樣式的組合 Points based on a combination of style,
完成度和難度系數 execution and difficulty.
我要做個空中翻騰一周半的示范 For example, I'm going to start with a standing one and a half.
高難度 我強調 是高難度動作 High, I repeat, high level of difficulty.
因為我馬上要把池底給洗了 Because I got to clear the pool deck.
去吧 馬上變成冰激凌 Hit that, you're immediately DQ'd.
不 等等 你們不會是說真吧 No. Wait, wait, wait. You guys aren't serious.
不會吧 不要啊 Really? No!
評審請打分 And the judges say.
-天啊 -很好 布朗迪 - Oh, my gosh. - Nice one, Blondie.
看來只有后空翻能贏他了 The only thing that can top that is a reverse back tuck.
-因為沒人定過怎么算分 -別 - Because of the blind entry. - No.
-我不敢看 -你得看 - I can't watch this. - You have to.
因為你是唯一的評審 You're the only judge.
不要啊 杰伊 No, Jay!
我想找個人來愛 I wanna love somebody
聽說你也芳心未許 I hear you need somebody to love
來看啊 太棒了 Look at this! Yeah!
聽說你在眾里尋他 I hear you're looking for someone to love
下面評審將以比賽者身份 And the judge turned competitor
與莫里亞利蒂一比高下 ties it with Moriarity.
勸你還是不要 No, no, no!
看看誰才是冠軍 To see who the real champion will be.
我們來個最后沖刺 We're down to a final sprint.
回到女友的懷中 Back in the arms of a girlfriend
我不知空無一人 I didn't know nobody
見你向我走來 And then I saw you coming my way
你犯規 Ooh! Hey, you cheater!
你被取消比賽資格了 Ooh. You are disqualified.
為什么 Why?
你拉我腳了 Because you pulled my ankle!
本該是我贏的 I would have won that!
算了 Whatever.
四十 Forty.
你在干嘛 What are you doing?
練習人類堅實基礎的四大支柱 Four pillars of a solid human foundation.
五十 Fifty.
給你沖了咖啡 衣服在烘干機里 I made you coffee, your clothes are in the dryer.
周
我嗆水了 I'm swallowing water.
但愿你長了鰓 Well, you better grow gills.
還有兩分鐘 You got two more minutes.
老兄 Yo, dude!
觀察力
三頁紙 Three pages.
恭喜你 Congratulations.
吃過沒 You eaten?
很好吃 It's good.
謝謝 Oh. Thank you.
別客氣 You're welcome.
你在開玩笑嗎 Is this some sort of a joke?
沒有 先生 No, sir.
我讓你寫篇論文 So I ask you to write an essay,
你倒給我觀察起女生來 and you observe a girl.
你沒告訴過我要觀察什么 You never told me what to observe.
得了吧 杰伊 你故意的嗎 Oh, come on, Jay. Really?
我在教你沖那個浪 而不是些 I'm training you to survive Mavericks, not some, uh...
愚蠢的青少年愛戀 silly teen crush.
羅克爾 進去睡覺 Roque, go to bed.
晚安 爸爸 Good night, Daddy.
我只是在想... -你在想什么 - I just though... - What did you think?
你在想什么啊 杰伊 What did you think, Jay?
沒什么 Nothing.
如果你不去想的話 簡直浪費我時間 If you didn't think, you're wasting my time.
-弗洛斯蒂 -好嗎 - Frosty. - Okay?
我沒時間陪你浪費 And that's not something I got a lot of these days.
這不是你的錯 You know what? It's not your fault.
你才15歲 只是個不懂事的小屁孩 You're 15. You're just a kid.
杰伊 抱歉失陪一下 Jay, um, will you excuse us for a moment?
天啊 弗洛斯蒂 For heaven's sake, Frosty,
不是人人都像你一樣看待世界的 好嗎 not everyone sees the world through your eyes. Okay?
他只是選擇了去觀察他所珍視的 He chose to examine something that meant the world to him.
十分個人的 Something personal,
來與你開誠相見 which he opened up and shared with you, entrusted to you.
布蘭達 我不關心他的感受 Brenda, I'm not concerned with his feelings.
我只關心結果 I'm concerned with the objective.
寫論文的要點在于 The point of writing an essay is to
摒棄主觀 一切以客觀為準 put your thoughts down on paper and see the gaps and reflect.
那他做到了嗎 And did he accomplish that or not?
我不知道 I don't know. I...
-我老爸甚至沒有... -噓 - My old man, he didn't even... - Shh, shh, shh.
你只需耐心點 It just takes patience.
你給自己太大壓力了 You owe yourself that much.
好嗎 Okay?
好吧 Okay.
我聽不到雷克的聲音 I don't hear Lake.
我猜他是想讓人抱抱 He just needed to be held, I think.
我們有時不也一樣嗎 Don't we all sometimes?
好吧 大佬 坐 All right, chief, sit down.
從現在起 我們一步一步來 From now on, let's stick to the subject at hand.
首先 我要你重寫這篇論文 First off, I want you to rewrite this essay.
重做
但你該去觀察一道真正的波浪了 But you can observe an actual break.
像岸邊浪之類的 As in surf break.
-洛佩茲先生 -到 - Mr. Lopez. - Here.
-米爾金先生 -到 - Miss Mirkin. - Here.
莫里亞利蒂先生 Mr. Moriarity.
馬弗瑞克斯 Mavericks.
十一月十日 上午9點13分 November 10th, 9:13 A.M.
吹西風 浪高約在16秒內達12英尺 Swell westerly, approximately 12 feet at 16-second intervals,
海面達25至30英尺 25 to 30-foot faces.
弗洛斯蒂隊里的一人在單獨沖浪 One of Frosty's crew heading out solo.
看來最好的辦法就是 Looking like the best way out
把浪沖到巖礁里 is to ride the current inside the rocks.
風力覆蓋在海岸線上 Wind remains side-shore,
時速十海里左右 maybe 10 knots.
風浪突然毫無預兆地轉向了 Set suddenly shifting with no warning.
浪勢增大一倍 轉向北向 Large and northerly, at least double the size.
拜托 拜托 Come on, come on.
-伙計 -布蘭達 - Hey, man. - Hey, Brenda.
-怎么樣了 -還不錯 - How's it going? - It's good.
是嗎 我很好奇 Yeah? I'm curious to hear
他的魔鬼訓練成效如何了 how it is from the one and the other end of the whip.
他不讓我有絲毫懈怠 You know, he's keeping me on my toes.
沒對你太苛刻吧 Not being too hard on you, is he?
沒 沒有 可能正相反 No. No, I feel like it's the other way around, maybe.
怎么說 How so?
當你經歷了很多事后 Sometimes, when you've been through a lot in life,
有時就會對自己很嚴厲 you know, sometimes you're hard on yourself.
至少我媽媽的事就是這樣的 That's the way it is with my mom, at least, you know?
你確定你只是高中生嗎 You sure you're only in high school?
拜拜 Bye.
再見 再見 放松點 See you. See you guys. Take it easy.
你女朋友又來查你崗了呢 Looks like your girlfriend is keeping tabs on you.
那誰啊 Yo, who's that?
他沒關系的 好了 再見 Oh, he's cool. All right, later.
你這是干嘛 What's this?
突然成了我的監護人嗎 You my keeper all of a sudden?
你這話是問我還是問自己的良心 布朗迪 You having this conversation with me or your conscience, Blond?
我只是想跟你說 輪到你鎖門了 I just wanted to tell you, it's your turn to lock up.
杰伊 Jay?
天哪 1分46秒 Aah! Oh, my God. 1: 46.
快到兩分鐘了 Almost two full minutes.
杰伊 我能跟你談談嗎 Jay, can I talk to you?
等一下 Uh, hold on.
請進 Come in.
你工作服在烘干機里 Hey, your uniform is, um.... it's in the dryer.
謝謝 好吧 Oh. Thank you. Thanks. Okay.
你能不能借我15美元 Um, listen, I was wondering if I could borrow $1 5.
我收到一張停車罰單 I got a parking ticket, and...
如果不交的話 就 you know, if you don't pay them, it's....
我會還你的 I'm gonna pay you back.
我保證 I promise.
謝謝 Thanks.
你要沖嗎 布朗迪 Hey. You heading out, Blond?
你管我呢 Like you care.
桑尼 Sonny!
有大浪來了[沖浪術語] Outside!
這小子搞得很定嘛 Boy can get it done.
搶別人的浪也叫搞定的話 那我無話可說 If that's what you call snaking someone's wave, man, you're right.
我們可沒你那么完美 杰伊 Guess we can't all be as perfect as you, can we, Jay?
布朗迪 你不該自甘墮落 Blond, you're better than that.
好嗎 去沖一下 All right? Let's go get some.
米奇喜歡莎倫而莎倫纏著切里斯 Mikey got with Sharon Sharon got Cherise
她在跟莎倫討論疾病的觀點 She was sharin' Sharon's outlook On the topic of disease
米奇臉上有道疤 鮑比信奉種族主義 Mikey had a facial scar And Bobby was a racist
他們全都愛上了死亡 愛在得克薩斯 They were all in love with dying, they were doing it in Texas
全都愛上了死亡 他們喝噴泉里的水 All in love with dying, they were drinking from a fountain
噴泉像雪崩從山而降一樣涌流出來 That was pouring like an avalanche, coming down the mountain
有時候我不在乎太陽的樣子 I don't mind the sun sometimes, the images it shows
我能從我嘴唇上和衣服上感覺你的味道 I can taste you on my lips, and smell you in my clothes
甜甜的肉桂香 還有溫柔的謊言 Cinnamon and sugary, and softly spoken lies
你永遠不知道怎么看穿別人的眼神 You never know just how to look, through other people's eyes
有時候我不在乎太陽的樣子 I don't mind the sun sometimes, the images it shows
我能從我嘴唇上和衣服上感覺你的味道 I can taste you on my lips, and smell you in my clothes
甜甜的肉桂香 還有溫柔的謊言 Cinnamon and sugary, and softly spoken lies
你永遠不知道怎么看穿別人的眼神 You never know just how you look, through other people's eyes
你提前回來了 You're back early.
你在干嘛 What you doing?
-怎么說呢 -他想給你個驚喜 - You know, it's, uh... - He wanted to surprise you.
好吧 他做到了 Well, he succeeded.
你們繼續 Carry on.
你最差勁了 你最差勁了 You're the worst! You're the worst!
你看到外面的大浪了嗎 今天太給力了 Hey, did you see that big outside set? It was firing today!
小心點 哥們 他嗑藥了 Careful, man. He's wasted.
我要點一個 Uh, yeah, let me get a, um...
一個熱狗 多放辣椒 A hot dog, extra chili.
不 等等 改成果凍甜甜圈 Ahem. No, check that. Make it a jelly donut.
哥們 我們只賣匹薩 All we got is pizza, bro.
小混蛋 Hey, little trash,
為啥你總是在笑 why are you always smiling all the time, huh?
又在笑 Oh, there you go again.
你瞧 你一笑就像個軟蛋 You see, when you smile, you look like a little wuss.
一像個軟蛋 就得不到尊重 When you look like a little wuss, you don't get no respect.
今天被尊重得不少呀 Sure got it today.
放手 Hey! Hey! Hey, get off!
快點 放手 兄弟 Come on! Get off me, man!
你打了我一拳 You throw a punch,
你最好祈禱我不會報復你 臭小子 you better pray I don't make it back up, you little punk.
你是不是覺得自己比我們都好啊 Yeah, you think you're better than the rest of us, don't you?
我看到你每天早晨跟弗洛斯蒂一起劃沖浪板 I see you paddling out there every morning with Frosty.
得了 哥們 我們出去吧 Come on, man, let's get out of here.
劃呀劃呀劃呀 臭小子 Paddle, paddle, paddle, little grump.
我們走吧 哥們 Let's go, bro.
出去吧 Let's get out of here.
你東西掉了吧 Looks like you dropped something.
我看了你的論文 I read your essay.
你覺得如何 What do you think?
這就是我從始至終所期望的 I think that's what I expected from you all along.
完成得不錯 大佬 You done good, chief.
現在雄獅正在沉睡 And now the lion sleeps.
海浪將在我們身后 The wave is gonna break behind us
即暗礁從40英尺驟降至 where the reef falls from about 40 feet
1500英尺的地方被劈開 to about 1500 feet.
你要注意避免以下事項: Here's what you want to avoid:
首先 看到那邊的巖石沒有 Firstly, see those rocks over there?
它們被稱為埋骨場 They call that the Boneyard.
無論如何都別讓水流把你推到那兒去 Whatever you do, do not let the current push you in there.
不然會粉身碎骨 It'll smash you to pieces.
那你從哪里出發呢 So where do you set?
你要保持一個三角形 What you got to do is triangulate.
在你和埋骨場之間劃一條線 You draw a line between yourself and that dish,
還有那邊的蘑菇石 and that mushroom rock over there.
真正的危險在海面以下 The biggest treachery of all is what lies underneath.
大多數海浪在 Most waves break on reefs
水面20英尺以下的巖石上就劈開了 less than 20 feet beneath the surface.
這里的深度增加了一倍 Depth is doubled out here.
就意味著 大浪沖過來時 水體會增大一倍 Meaning, when it's firing, you got twice the water mass,
浪潮能量增大一倍 twice the wave energy,
溺水的幾率也增大一倍 and twice the likelihood of drowning.
別擔心 有我呢 孩子 Don't worry. I got your back, kid.
-你在海里怎么回事 -這還用問 - What happened down there? - What do you mean what happened?
我剛看到一頭15英尺的鯊魚啊 I just saw a 15-foot shark.
我知道你肯定嚇尿了 I'm sure it scared the piss out of you,
但我想問的是 你為什么驚慌失措 but that wasn't what I asked. Why'd you panic?
大概只是恐懼吧 Just fear, I guess.
好吧 有一點你得明白 All right, well, one thing you got to know,
恐懼與恐慌是兩種截然不同的情緒 fear and panic are two separate emotions.
恐懼是正常的 恐慌則是致命的 Fear is healthy, panic is deadly.
因為當這里迎來大浪時 Because when this place is firing.,
我說的是30 40英尺那么高的浪 and I'm talking about 30, 40-foot waves,
你心里就只剩恐懼了 it's all about fear.
但如果你像剛才那樣驚慌失措的話 But you panic out there, like you just did,
就必死無疑 you die.
那如果你嚇得要死 怎么能不恐慌呢 Well, if you're scared to death, how do you not panic?
分析你的恐懼 找出你在害怕什么 By identifying the fear and what it is you're afraid of.
不只是沖浪 人生也如此 Not just out there, but in life.
你的下一篇論文來了 Welcome to your next essay.
好了 同學們 聽好了 布置家庭作業 All right, guys, listen up. Uh, homework assignment, okay?
把筆放下 我說完之前不要寫了 Put your pencils down. Don't write until I'm done.
先聽我說 好吧 開始了 Gotta listen first, okay? Here we go.
舉出節肢動物的四種亞門 Name the four subphylum of arthropods.
哪種亞門最為古老 Which subphylum is thought to be the eldest?
哪種亞門最為古老 這是第一題 Which subphylum is thought to be the eldest? Number one.
第二題 比較完全和不完全變質峰期條件 Number two: Compare complete and incomplete metamor...
又來了 There he goes again.
我來看看能不能在這見到你 I was hoping I'd see you here.
我們要在小海灣那邊生篝火 Um, we're doing a bonfire down at the cove.
你下班后要不要過來 You want to stop by after work?
謝謝 不過我還要 Oh, thanks. You know, but I got to....
篝火在哪兒 Where's the action?
我想去派對 I want to party!
算了 我有個更好的主意 You know, come on. I got a better idea.
行 好 總共14.56美元 Yeah, okay, that's $14.56.
兄弟 別呀 怎么了 Dude, no. What?
我永遠欠你個人情 布朗迪 I'll owe you forever, Blond.
你好啊 What's up?
我保證 I promise.
哥們 你掉了 Oh, hey. Dude, you dropped your, uh....
你回來了 You're home.
嗯 我提前完成了 所以我想就回家吧 Yeah, I finished up early, so I thought I'd get back.
-羅克爾在她房間里嗎 -對 她正準備睡覺了 - Is Roque in her room? - Yeah, she's getting ready for bed.
包的什么 What's in the bag?
我小時候我老爸給我讀過故事 My old man used to read to me as a kid,
我就想 也許 and I thought... you know, maybe...
也許我也給羅克爾念念吧 maybe I would start reading to Roque.
好的 Okay.
羅克爾 Roque?
你好 爸爸 Hi, Daddy.
我猜你不是第一次來這吧 I take it this isn't your first time here.
這是我第一次跟別人來 It's my first time with anyone else.
看 你看到沒 Look, you see that?
那是天空中第七亮的星星 參宿七 That's the seventh brightest star in the sky, Rigel.
它的上方的兩旁 是參宿四和參宿五 Right above it, on either side, that's Betelgeuse and Bellatrix.
那是獵戶座的兩肩 It's the shoulders of Orion.
怎么了 What?
-你怎么知道這個 -我爸爸教我的 - How'd you know that? - I learned it from my dad.
我大概三四歲的時候他開始教我認星星 He started teaching me about the stars when I was maybe, like, 3 or 4.
天上有88星座 There are 88 constellations,
不過我再沒有機會把它們學全了 but I never got a chance to learn them all.
好了 跟我來 Come on. Follow me.
漸漸為你迷失 Fade into you
你卻不知道 Strange you never knew
劃 劃 劃 加油 金米 Paddle, paddle, paddle! Come on, Kimmy!
金米 把手給我 過來 Kimmy, give me your hand. Get over here.
金米 加油啊 加油 Kimmy, come on. Come on. Ha-ha-ha.
漸漸為你迷失 Fade into you
弗羅斯特 我們在馬弗瑞克斯潛水的時候 Frost, I saw you were counting on your fingers
我看到你在數手指 when we were diving at Mavericks.
你在水下待的時間越長 The longer you're down there
你的頭腦就越不清醒 the more your mind unspools.
數一根手指代表一分鐘 You mark each minute with a finger.
手指全部數完時 Run out of fingers,
就明白情況不妙了 and you know you're in trouble.
感覺到海水變涼了嗎 Feel the water getting colder?
-嗯 -跟水下的情況有關 - Yeah. - Because of what lies beneath us.
是因為蒙特雷海溝 5280英尺深 It's the Monterey Trench, 5,280 feet deep.
洋流經過這里 Current drops in here,
一直向東 直到撞上南部海嶺 heads east until it hits the Southern Wall.
-所以產生了什么現象 -船尾漩渦伴流 - Creating what? - It's a back eddy.
知道嗎 你撞上那個伴流的時候 You know, the day you hit that eddy
你就完成全部路程的一半多了 is the day you are gonna be more than halfway there.
-你從哪學的這些 -從你那兒 - Where'd you learn all that stuff anyway? - From you.
我是說 從書籍和地圖上 I mean, from books and maps.
你要我去研究洋流和潮汐 You told me to study the currents and the tides.
可能我確實說過吧 Yeah, I guess I did, didn't I?
我曾經來這里劃向最深處 Used to come out here and just paddle out to the deepest part.
在水面輕松地上下浮沉 只為 Used to bob up and down like a cork just....
只為了感受它 Just to feel it.
感受什么 To feel what?
深淵 The abyss.
今天的潮真大啊 The tide is really strong today.
是由于日本的熱帶颶風造成的 That's because of tropical hurricanes from Japan.
-颶風一路穿過太平洋 -真的嗎 - Making their way across the Pacific. - Really?
這個現象每7至10年才發生一次 Only happens once every seven to ten years.
上一次厄爾尼諾現象是在83年 Last El Niño was 83.
太平洋赤道帶大范圍內海洋和大氣相互作用后失去平衡而產生的一種氣候現象
導致馬弗瑞克斯的海浪 Brought waves into Mavericks
有五層樓那么高 the size of five-story buildings.
-對 -厄爾尼諾 - Oh, yeah. - El Niño.
你覺得它今年會發生嗎 Do you think it'll happen again this year?
不知道 I don't know.
不過你最好未雨綢繆 But if it does, you'd better be ready.
因為到時這道巨浪 Because that wave of ours
就不是什么秘密了 ain't gonna be a secret anymore.
所以姑娘 我想讓你知道 So, girl, I want you to know
不論你去哪兒 我都在你身邊 That wherever you go I won't be far away
因為我親吻你雙唇時 你輕搖雙臀 Because as I kiss your lips While you swing your hips
你會看到我說 她是我親愛的寶貝 You just see me say She's my honey baby
好棒 Nice.
謝謝 女士們 Thank you, ladies.
好了 我得去弄些木頭 All right, I gotta go get some wood.
-不 -得讓女士們暖暖和和的 - No. - I got to keep you ladies warm.
你不去幫幫爸爸嗎 Why don't you go help Daddy?
-再見 -不是吧 你要走了 - Bye. - Oh, no. You're leaving.
對 要上小夜班了 Yeah, swing shift calls.
不 很高興見到你 No. Oh, come on, good to see you.
等等 你們是在哪里遇見的 So, wait, where did you guys meet?
在你正看著的地方 You're looking at it.
真的嗎 Really?
真的 這里就是我們第一次約會的地方 Yeah. This is where we went on our first date.
他約我出來吃晚餐 我還沒反應過來 He asked me out to dinner, and before I know it,
他就刺到一條魚 he's you know, spearing a fish
像山頂洞人一樣架在篝火上烤了 and cooking it over a campfire like a caveman,
我穿著白色塔夫綢裙坐在那兒 戴著珍珠 and I'm just sitting there in my white taffeta dress and my pearls...
疑惑餐具在哪呢 you know, wondering where my cutlery is.
他的其他家人也在這兒嗎 Is all of his family here?
沒有 我們是他唯一的家人 No, we're his only family.
弗洛斯蒂很早以前就失去了雙親 Frosty lost both his folks when he was young.
他很少提到這件事 He doesn't really talk about it much.
差不多都憋在心里了 Kind of carries it on the inside.
一直如此 Always has.
不知為何 這又使他 Somehow, it's just...
變得不合群 made him feel unfit.
我也不知道 這讓我很傷心 I don't know. It just... it breaks my heart.
你要對那個男孩好一點 聽到沒 You take care of that boy, you hear?
嗯 我會的 好的 Yeah, I will. Okay.
我是說 我們只是朋友 I mean, we're just friends...
但是我會照顧他的 but I'll take care of him.
只是朋友嗎 Just friends?
捉得好 Wow. Nice catch!
-有人想親親魚嗎 -我不想 - Anybody want to kiss a fish? - Not me.
不 不 杰伊 不要 No! No! Jay, no!
不 別拿我這兒來 不 No! Do not get that near me! No!
-你好啊 -你好嗎 - Hey. What's up? - Hey. How are you?
真高興你來了 Well, well. Glad you showed up.
我們是來看馬弗瑞克斯小子的 We came to see the Mavericks man.
他們在這干嘛 What are they doing here?
你是誰啊 街坊哨兵嗎 What are you, like, Neighborhood Watch?
怎么回事呢 小混蛋 So, what's the deal, little trash?
你是要獨自殺死惡龍 You gonna slay that dragon by yourself,
還是你那個假爸爸來幫忙啊 or is your rent-a-dad gonna help out?
"我從遠處觀察并發覺 "From a distance, I watched and realized
伴隨著世間少有的美麗是反復的推敲 that along with rare beauty comes constant scrutiny.
比如當上校園話劇的主演 Like being the lead in a school play."
真有詩意啊 哥們 That's poetic, man.
不過 遺憾的是她在背地里笑你呢 It's a shame she laughs at you behind your back, though.
不過這個你已經知道了吧 But, I mean, you already knew that, right?
這很明顯啊 她不愿意被看到跟你在一塊 It's kind of obvious since she won't be seen with you.
劃呀劃呀劃呀 臭小子 Paddle, paddle, paddle, little grump.
劃呀劃呀劃呀 Paddle, paddle, paddle.
寫深入點
我不寫了 I'm not doing it again.
好吧 你清楚我們當初怎么說的 Okay, well, you know the deal.
你想放棄 隨便你 You want to walk, that's your choice.
-你為什么要這么對我 -因為我想要實話 - Why are you doing this to me? - Because I want the truth.
我想知道你害怕什么 I want to know what you're afraid of.
我不知道 I don't know.
你不知道 還是你不想知道 You don't know? Or you don't wanna know?
我不知道 I don't know.
那你最好問問自己 Well, you better ask yourself,
你想丟下的是什么 what do you want to leave behind?
真正的自己 還是紙上的幾句話 The truth of who you really are or just some words on a page?
所有在你內心深處燃燒的東西 All that stuff that's burning deep down inside of you,
是什么 what is that?
那些你甚至都不能看一眼的東西 That stuff you can't even look at
因為你如此害怕它 because it scares you so much,
就如同信中的內容 that the same thing in that letter?
-那封你不敢打開的信 -別說了 - That letter that you can't open - Don't.
-你卻連扔掉也不敢 -別這樣 - But you can't even throw away. - Don't do this!
別怎樣 Don't do what?
如果你連打開那封信的勇氣都沒有 If you don't even have the courage to open that letter,
那你怎么面對那個海浪 then how can you take on that wave?
住口 我不知道 好嗎 我說了不知道 Stop it! I don't know, okay? I said I don't know.
爸爸 快點 媽媽病了 Dad, quick, Mommy's sick.
布蘭達 Brenda.
媽媽 Mommy?
杰伊 撥911 親愛的 Jay. Call 911. I'm here, sweetheart.
我就在你身邊 快點 I'm right here. Hurry.
媽媽 媽媽 Mommy. Mommy!
是的 我們這有緊急情況 Yeah, yeah, we have an emergency.
親愛的我就在你身邊 Babe, I'm with you.
請派一輛救護車過來 I need you to send an ambulance, please.
杰伊 告訴他們她中風了 Jay, tell them she's having a stroke.
她中風了 說不了話了 I think she's having a stroke. She can't talk.
保持呼吸 親愛的 Just breathe, baby.
不清楚 她摔倒了 I don't know. I don't know. She fell...
媽媽 Mommy!
-媽媽 -她不能動了 - Mommy! - She's not moving.
別擔心 親愛的 我在你身邊 Okay, Babe. Baby, I got you.
我們在歡喜角的38號街311號 We're at 311 38th Street, in Pleasant Point.
怎么會發生這種事呢 How could this happen?
杰伊 我們能談談嗎 Jay, can we talk?
求你了 Please?
你還好嗎 Are you okay?
不好 No.
我得走了 I need to go.
好吧 Okay.
走開 Go away.
我的孫子孫女不知道他們父親在哪里 My grandchildren are wondering where their father is.
他們是不知道他們母親在哪 先生 No, they're wondering where their mother is, sir.
那就告訴他們 Then tell them.
我不知道該說什么 I don't know what to say.
告訴他們真相 Tell them the truth.
告訴他們她在天堂與上帝相伴 She's at the side of God in heaven.
我可不怎么相信這種說法 Well, I'm not sure I believe that right now.
也許 Maybe....
也許我們會接管孩子幾天 Maybe we'll take the kids for a couple of days.
這兩個孩子已經失去了母親 Those two children have lost their mother.
他們現在需要父親的關懷 Now, don't deny them the comfort of their father.
進去吧 Now, come inside.
媽媽 他為什么拋棄我們 Why did he leave us, Mom?
他沒有拋棄我們 He didn't leave us.
他只是拋棄了我 He left me.
弗洛斯蒂 Frosty?
弗羅斯特 Frost.
弗洛斯蒂 Hey, Frosty?
給爸爸看看你可愛的兔寶寶 Show Daddy the soft baby rabbit.
說 "你好" Say, "Hi."
說 "我愛你 爸爸" Say, "I love you, Daddy."
能給爸爸看看嗎 Can you show Daddy?
讓他看看你可愛的兔寶寶 Show Daddy the soft baby rabbit.
說"你好" 說"我愛你 爸爸" Say, "Hi." Can you say, "I love you, Daddy."
弗羅斯特 Frost?
你好 爸爸 Hi, Daddy.
她說"爸"了 She said, "Da!"
她說了"爸爸" She said "Daddy."
你真是太棒了 That's good.
我們要給爸爸講個故事嗎 Should we read a story to Daddy? Should we read a story...
深呼吸 Deep breaths.
保持節奏 Steady rhythm.
滑行推進 Drive and glide.
弗洛斯蒂 Frosty!
深呼吸 Deep breaths.
保持節奏 Steady rhythm.
滑行推進 Drive and glide.
弗洛斯蒂 Frosty!
洋流 The current.
他在順著洋流漂 He floated with the current.
弗洛斯蒂 你這是在干什么 Frosty, what are you doing?
你在干什么 你不能這樣一走了事 What are you doing? You can't just walk away from everything!
憑什么不能 憑什么 Why not? Huh? Why not?
她是我的一切 杰伊 She's all I had, Jay.
我的世界里只有她 She's all I ever knew.
弗羅斯特 我一直記得你的教導 All I know, Frost, is what you told me.
只要觀察得夠仔細 總能想到辦法 If you look hard enough, there's always a way through it.
如果我就是不善觀察呢 杰伊 But what if I don't have the strength, Jay?
我該依靠四根支柱里的哪一根呢 Which pillar do I lean on then?
第五根 The fifth one.
第五根是什么 Which one is that?
是我 It's me.
給你 Come on.
這些水夠你喝了 That's enough of this.
走吧 該回去了 Come on. It's time to go.
杰伊 方向錯了 Hey, Jay. You're going the wrong way.
我能感覺到同渦 弗羅斯特 I felt the back eddy, Frost.
也就是說我們已經橫跨了大半個海灣了 That means we're more than halfway across the bay.
往前走比往后退要近 Closer to what's in front of us than what's behind.
劃吧 弗洛斯蒂 Paddle, Frosty.
早上好 Good morning.
你忘記今天是什么日子了嗎 Did you forget what day it is?
對了 還你你借我的錢 Oh. And this is all of the money that I borrowed from you.
還加了點利息 Plus some interest.
媽媽 你這錢哪來的 Mom, where did you get this?
因為上班準時 我晉升為值班經理了 I was made the shift manager, because I'm so punctual.
打開你的禮物看看 All right. Open your present.
弗洛斯蒂告訴我你會需要這個來跟蹤涌浪 Frosty said that you might be needing that to follow the swells.
他還說會有一個大浪襲來 And he said there is a very big one coming.
我不怎么懂他的意思 不過 It was hard to figure out what he was talking about, but,
他們稱其為厄爾尼諾 是小男孩的意思 they're calling it El Niño, which means "The boy."
你不好好學西班牙語所以不知道 You know that because you got a C in Spanish.
你早就知道我沖浪的事了 You knew about this the whole time.
弗洛斯蒂又不傻 我的字也沒那么漂亮 Yeah. Frosty's no dummy, and my handwriting is not that good.
生日快樂 Happy birthday.
太好了 Yes! Ha!
天氣不錯吧 女士們 Nice weather we're having, eh, ladies?
最近怎么樣 鮑勃 Hey. How's it going, Bob?
你過的還不錯吧 How you holding up?
恩 還不錯 Yeah, yeah. Good.
這是杰伊 This is Jay.
我叫鮑勃·皮爾森 孩子 久仰大名 Bob Pearson. Heard a lot about you, kid.
-謝謝你 先生 -跟我來 - Thank you, sir. - Follow me.
過得怎樣 你現在還沖浪嗎 How's it cook? Catching any waves?
不 早不玩了 No, I'll never surf anymore.
我的時間都給你們做沖浪板了 I'm making too many boards for all you guys.
這樣的生活也不錯 That's the way I like to keep it.
想要駕馭猛獸 你需要圣槍才行 You want to slay a giant, you need a sacred spear.
生日快樂 杰伊 Happy birthday, Jay.
我能不能... Can I...?
當然 它是你的了 Yeah. She's all yours.
我不知道該說什么了 I don't know what to say.
埋頭苦干吧 Just stay low, go fast.
沒問題 Yeah. Yeah.
看 他在那 There. There he is.
他能扛住海浪的撞擊 Yeah, he can take a beating.
但他能沖浪嗎 But can he surf?
你絕對沒見過這個 Like nothing you've ever seen.
你們見過有人能這樣嗎 You ever seen anyone that can tread water like that,
連續踩水45分鐘還不溺水 for 45 minutes without drowning?
是有些看透 He's got a point.
很好 我就當你倆都認同了 Good, I'll take that as two yeses.
讓他別和我搶浪就行 Just make sure he doesn't drop in on me, all right?
強勁的厄爾尼諾在阿拉斯加灣聚集 Strong El Niño induced winter storms
引起了冬季風暴 are queued up in the Gulf of Alaska,
現在正向著加州的東部移動 and progressing eastward towards California.
時速55海里 浪高達40英尺 The burst is producing 55-knot winds and seas to 40 feet.
風暴預計會引起大型海浪 Large ocean swells are expected to arrive,
屆時浪高將達35英尺 resulting in large breaking waves with heights to 35 feet.
這么大雨你來這干嘛 Hey. It's pouring out there.
你最近怎么樣 How you been?
不錯 Good.
金 怎么了 Kim, what's wrong?
我們做朋友這么久了 We've been friends forever.
別這樣 有事就說出來吧 You don't have to do this. Just tell me.
這太復雜了 It's just complicated.
依我看也不復雜 Not from where I'm sitting.
那是因為你只看到了萬事善的一面 That's because you only see the good in everything.
我們大部分人都無休止地 Most of us just spend all of our time
糾結于種種假設之中 dwelling on all the what ifs
想方設法想弄懂為什么事事不順 and just looking for all the reasons why things could never work out.
如果你錯了呢 And what if you're wrong?
我就會在一個雨夜出現在一家披薩店里 Then you show up to a pizza parlor late one night, in the rain.
從孩提時代起 杰伊 Ever since we were little kids, Jay,
在我內心深處 我就知道 I've just had this feeling deep down inside
你就是那個 that you're the one
會和我相攜終生的人 and I'm gonna spend the rest of my life with you.
怎么 What?
怎么了 What's wrong?
請注意 已發布極高海浪警告 Be advised, there is an extremely high surf advisory in effect.
浮標顯示浪高于18秒內達32英尺 Buoys reporting 32 feet at 18 seconds.
弗洛斯蒂 我聽到了 32英尺18秒 Hey, Frosty, I just heard, 32 at 18.
好的 Okay.
好 我叫上金 Okay, I'll call Kim.
你真的不去嗎 Are you sure you don't wanna come?
我只要你能安全回家就行了 I just want you to come home.
東西都帶齊了嗎 You sure you got everything?
帶齊了 Yeah.
很好 All right, then.
因為今天會有很多年輕氣盛的小伙 Because of that there'll be a lot of cowboys
想在那兒證明自己的實力 out there today trying to prove themselves.
有些人會受傷 Some of them are gonna get hurt.
所以你要和他們保持距離 集中注意力 So keep your distance and keep your focus, all right?
這海浪的方向太偏西了 So a swell with this much west means
等會一定會轉向 sets will be shifting.
你最好準備好 So you better be prepared.
靠邊 靠邊停一下 Pull over. Pull over.
-給你穿暖和點 -好 - Let's keep you warm, okay? - Okay.
好了 All right.
你們先走 我等會來 I'll catch up with you.
海岸看著挺嚇人的 Coast looks pretty scary.
從沒見過這么大的浪 Never seen it this big before.
我最近想了很多 I've been thinking about a lot of things lately.
是你教會我沖浪的 You taught me to surf.
我都沒謝過你 I never thanked you for that.
我會看著你的 兄弟 I'll be watching you, man.
時光荏苒啊 兄弟 End of an innocence, my brother.
感覺怎么樣 孩子 How you feeling, kid?
準備好了嗎 You ready?
穿好泳衣 我們一起劃過去 Suit up. We'll paddle out together.
你不去嗎 弗羅斯特 What about you, Frost?
我很久之前許過一個承諾 大佬 I made a promise a long time ago, chief.
那可不是"小男孩"啊 伙計們 That isn't El Niño, boys.
簡直就是海浪頭子嘛 That's El Jefe right there.
開玩笑吧 You gotta be kidding me.
這浪對這孩子來說太大了 It's too big for the kid.
杰伊 你確定要去嗎 Jay, are you sure about this?
非常 非常確定嗎 I mean, really, really sure?
我覺得你不該去 Because I'm not.
我確定 I am.
我知道你想說什么 所以別說了 I know what you're gonna say, so don't.
這可不是我們之前說好的 That wasn't the deal.
記得嗎 Remember?
不問問題 不討價還價 No questions, no arguing.
有些話一直想告訴你 I just wanted to tell you something I should've told you long ago.
那些其實都不重要 Which is, it doesn't matter.
不論你選擇放棄還是迎難而上 Whether you decide to paddle out or take that drop,
我都一直愛著你 I love you no matter what.
弗羅斯特 Frost.
走吧 Come on.
再靠近點 Hey, get us closer!
再近點 Closer!
大干一場吧 Let's do it!
開始吧 Whoo! Go time!
快離開這 海浪改變方向了 Get out of here! Sets are shifting!
散開 有大浪來了 Swing wide! Outside!
孩子 快劃 快劃 快劃 Kid, paddle, paddle, paddle!
快 快 快 Go, go, go!
快把船開走 Get your boats out of here now!
快 杰伊 離開這 Go, Jay, get out!
劃 快劃 快劃 Paddle, paddle, paddle!
有人會死在那海浪下的 Somebody's gonna die out there.
只要他還能抓住繩子往上爬就沒事 He'll be okay, as long as he can still climb up the leash.
加油啊 杰伊 Come on, Jay.
趕快啊 杰伊 Come on, Jay.
他在那 There he is!
抓住我的手 Grab ahold!
不 把我的沖浪板給我 No, no, no! Give me my board!
照他說的做 You heard him!
謝了 Thanks.
等下 他要干什么 Wait a minute. What's he doing?
他是來駕馭馬弗瑞克斯的 He came to surf Mavericks.
放好 伙計 幫我放好 Set it up, man. Set it up.
-幫我拿上去 -拿到了 - Take it. - I got it.
謝了 Thanks.
等下 等下 Hold on, hold on.
-抓穩了嗎 -是的 - Got it? - Yeah.
伙計 你大可不必去沖這個浪 Come on, man, you don't have to surf it.
大老遠來了 至少要去體驗一下吧 Came this far, you at least need to feel it.
不了 No.
我覺得今天我體驗夠了 Think I've felt enough for one day.
征服它吧 Kill it.
親愛的弗洛斯蒂 Dear Frosty.
我的確是在害怕 Truth is that I am afraid.
我害怕再也見不到我父親 I'm afraid I'll never see my dad again,
害怕我母親再也得不到幸福 and that my mom will never find happiness.
我害怕失去金 I'm afraid of losing Kim,
因為她是我一生的摯愛 because she's the love of my life.
當然 我也害怕失去你 And, of course, I'm afraid of losing you.
我不知道你心中對父親是如何定義的 I'm not sure what you think fathers are supposed to be,
但我現在知道什么是真正的父親了 but now I know what they should be.
你沒事真是太好了 孩子 Glad to see you made it, kid.
我最后還是讀了我父親的信 I finally read my dad's letter,
就像我上次交給你的文章一樣 which was like my last essay to you.
只是在白紙上堆砌毫無意義的文字 Just a bunch of words on a page.
這個浪交給你了 伙計 This one's all you, charger.
也許聽著很奇怪 I know this sounds strange,
但我總覺得 but I've always felt like
我時日無多了 I wouldn't be around for very long,
所以我才要放手一搏 which is why I want to take that drop.
因為每當我向海中俯視 Because once I look down over the edge
我就很清楚 我會成為海浪的一部分 and I catch it, I'll become a part of it.
在那一刻我才體會到活著的感覺 And in that moment, I'll know that I'm alive.
杰伊在那天出了名 Jay became famous that day,
不是因為駕馭的了巨浪 not for riding giants,
而是因為他敢于挑戰不可能之事的勇氣 but for the courage of a boy who dared the impossible.
后來幾年間 他在沖浪界所向披靡 Over the years, he rose to the peak of the surfing world,
他對沖浪的熱愛磨練了他的技藝 his prowess matched only by his joy.
他是體育界真正的沖浪王子 The true prince amidst a sport of kings.
他娶了他的發小并發誓愛她終身 He married his childhood sweetheart and swore himself true.
至于最后的結局 As for the rest,
我只能說 過于挑戰自己的極限 all I will say is, the ones who push the limits discover,
有時會產生副作用 the limits sometimes push back.
在杰伊完成那次偉大沖浪的七年后 在Maldives潛水時溺水身亡
享年22歲
致杰伊 To Jay!
海洋孕育了我們 We all come from the sea,
但并非所有人都為海而生 but we're not all of the sea.
我們中那些海浪之子 Those of us who are, we children of the tides
必須不斷地回歸海洋 must return to it again and again,
直到某天再也無力返航 until the day we don't come back,
只留下曾經踏過的朵朵浪花 leaving behind only that which was touched along the way.
你必須心懷感恩 You just got to appreciate everything.
生活中最重要的事之一就是 Um, I think that's one of the most important things in life,
杰伊·莫里亞利蒂 1978-2001
心懷感恩 is just really appreciating it,
因為我們只能活一次 because, you know, we only get to do this once.
生命短暫 所以及時行樂吧 And it's not for a long time, so enjoy it.
像杰伊一樣活著
伴奏歌曲為格里格·霍爾登演唱的《請賜予我能量》
請帶我一程 請緊握我手 I need a lift, I need a shake
我想重尋一次機會 I need to find another chance that I can take
請賜予我斗志 請賜予我能量 I need a fight, I need an energy
請快帶我高飛遠走 I need something that will take me quickly
讓一切隨風而逝 I gotta just let go, whoa
這才是我唯一所想 It's all that I know
這才是我唯一所念 It's all that I see
只有它才能將我囚于枷鎖 It's all that's been here controlling me
這才是我唯一所想 It's all that I know
這才是我唯一所念 It's all that I see
請帶我一程 請緊握我手 I need a lift, I need a shake
我想重尋一次機會 I need to find another chance that I can take
請賜予我斗志 請賜予我能量 I need a fight, I need an energy
請快帶我高飛遠走 I need something that will take me quickly
讓一切隨風而逝 I gotta just let go, whoa
讓一切隨風而逝 Whoa, I gotta just let go, whoa
讓一切隨風而逝 I gotta just let go, whoa