Our journey starts at Reykjavik, Europe's northernmost capital.
From there, we travel to the Reykjanes Peninsula, one of the most active volcanic regions in
the world.
After paying a visit to Iceland's top tourist attraction - the Blue Lagoon Thermal Baths
- we explore the villages and lava fields of the southwest coast.
We then head inland to the world's second largest geothermal power plant at Hengill.
We return to the southern coast at Eyrarbakki, one of a number of villages situated on the
world's largest, post Ice-Age lava field.
Out to sea, we explore the Westman Islands, also known as the 'Pompeii of the North'.
Finally, we visit Surtsey, one of the world's most important scientific discoveries.
Iceland's rich history dates back to the 9th century and the age of Vikings.
It's believed today's Reykjavik was the site of their first permanent settlement.
Europe's northernmost capital enjoys one of the highest living standards in the world.
With its abundance of renewable energy, Reykjavik is also considered to be the world's greenest
city, a great source of local pride.
While Iceland remains Europe's most sparsely populated country, roughly two-thirds of its
320,000 inhabitants live in or around the capital.
With it's commercial shipping facilities, international airport, and striking architecture,
Reykjavik has embraced its status as a thriving, modern city.
One distinctive building is known as, 'the Pearl' - a storage facility for geo-thermally
heated water.
The location here, a mere two degrees south of the Arctic Circle, means short, 4-hour
days in winter. But in the summer, Reykjavik becomes the land of the midnight sun, with
nearly 24-hours of daylight.
Swimming is a great way to pass Iceland's long summer days. The use of geothermal pools
means year-round bathing.
A fine example of the country's unique architectural style is Hallgrimskirkja Cathedral, one of
Reykjavik's most recognisable landmarks.
At nearly 75 metres, the majestic tower's design was inspired by the shapes and patterns
found in lava formations.
Of course, no visit to Iceland's capital would be complete without exploring the colourful
housing of the city's neighbourhoods.
Painting buildings this way goes back to the early 1900s when corrugated iron was used
as a cheap and abundant building.
The problem was that it quickly rusted. So, in resourceful Icelandic fashion, the home
owners looked no further than the leftover paints from boatyards, to rust-proof their
houses. It also made the city blaze with colour. Though today building materials are mixed,
it's a habit that's clearly stuck.
Another of Iceland's traditions holds an even greater significance than housing or
architecture.
Built in 1992, Rekjavik City Hall may be a sleek bold, structure built for a modern government,
but democracy in Iceland has roots dating back more than a thousand years. The country's
first parliamentary government was established around the year 930 and endured for three
centuries.
One of the city's most beloved works of public art, the Sun Voyager pays homage to
Iceland's Viking past. The sculpture is an ode to the sun said to represent a dream
ship - a fitting symbol of Ithe country's seafaring history.
Although Rekjavik has embraced its modern status,the city remains deeply connected to
its past.
Away from the noisy hustle and bustle is Arbaejarsafn - a museum that celebrates the country's building
traditions.
Established in 1957, it set out preserve Iceland's culture and heritage for future generations.
Most of the houses were taken from Reykjavik's oldest neighbourhoods and from distant fishing
hamlets, then carefully reconstructed.
On the city's northern edge, we find another historic home… one which altered the course
of modern history.
Hofdi House, built in 1909, became the site of one the most notable meetings of the modern
age. On 11th October, 1986, Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev met here for two days
to discuss the possible decommissioning of nuclear weapons.
As for Iceland's own history, more than 100 lighthouses stand as symbols of the nation's
deep connection to the sea.
Located in the Seltjarnarnes Peninsula nature reserve on Reykjanik's Northwest tip is
Grotta Lighthouse.
The tower has stood watch over the entrance to the harbour since it was originally built
in 1894. Although the building itself is closed to the public, this spot is considered to
be one of the best places in the city to watch the Northern Lights.
As we travel along the southwest coast, these clouds are a clue as to how Reyjavik which
means, 'smoky bay' was originally given its name.
The early settlers marvelled at the thick clouds of steam that once shrouded this volcanic
landscape. The lava and ash have also given Iceland its rich mineral resources.
One of the country's key industries is aluminium smelting.
With an annual capacity of more than 185,000 tonnes, this Rio Tinto plant is an important
part of the national economy. Today, aluminium accounts for around 20% of Iceland's total
exports.
As we continue west, winding roads snake their way across the vast landscape.
These roads often serve as the only connection between larger towns and the most remote pockets
of Iceland's sparse population
...like the small fishing hamlet of Vogar, which sprang up in the early 20th century.
It gained importance when larger harbours became necessary to accommodate the increasing
size of fishing vessels.
We cross the harbour, and head towards Reykjanes Peninsula, a birding and nature preserve.
The waters here are also an important seasonal habitat for several species of whales and
dolphins.
Sheltered by the harbour is the municipality of Reykjanesbaer. Though fishing has always
been vital for the communities, here, it gained military importance after the second world
war when a key US Naval base was established on this site.
Decommissioned in 2006, it's since been transformed into a vocational college which includes a
renowned aviation program.
Future pilots also train here, at nearby Keflavik Airport.
Originally built for the military in 1943, civilian traffic gradually took over.
It now services more than 2 million passengers each year.
Most visitors flock to one of Iceland's newest additions: the Blue Lagoon Thermal
Baths.
These pools are the country's leading tourist attraction.
It all began when a nearby geothermal power plant opened in 1976. A stream of excess water
from the facility saturated the porous lava field, creating the pools we see today. A
blend of silica and blue-green algae creates the distinctive milky colour.
Many visitors believe the water helps with skin complaints.
The Blue Lagoon may be fairly new, but Icelanders have been utilizing hot water pools for centuries.
The first man-made geothermal facility in Iceland dates back to the early 13th century,
but the tradition of bathing in the hot springs has been an important part of the national
culture since the first settlement in 9th century.
Today, the Blue Lagoon welcomes more than 400,000 visitors each year from every corner
of the globe.
It may not be a naturally occurring phenomenon, but its impressive size and the water's
unique characteristics ensure its place as one the man-made wonders of the world. These
pools are also another example of Iceland's penchant for finding innovative ways to utilize
available resources.
The abundance of geothermal power generated from this peninsula makes it the lifeblood
of Iceland.
It is, after all, situated on a visible rift zone with five distinct volcanic regions.
Since most of the world’s rift zones are underwater, the peninsula offers a rare glimpse
of the North American and Eurasian Plates as they pull away from each other – albeit
very, very slowly.
With each period of volcanic activity, Iceland continues to grow and gain landmass, making
the Reykjanes Peninsula a geologist's dream.
These mountains were formed during the last Ice Age.
When an snow-capped volcano erupted, torrents of lava ripped channels through the glacier,
forming the peaks and ridges we see today.
A 450-year period between the 9th and 14th centuries was particularly active. Sixteen
lava fields were created by at least four separate eruptions, each leaving its own distinctive
pattern of lava formation.
The cliffs along the southwestern coast offer a spectacular glimpse of Iceland's fascinating
geological history.
Even in the remotest regions, small farms dot the rugged terrain.
Traditional shore-farming and fishing techniques in these areas remained virtually unchanged
until the turn of the 20th century.
The unsurfaced roads connecting these remote locations are simply carved directly into
the lava—another great example of Iceland's resourcefulness.
More than half the country's 13,000km of roads are made this way.
But it does leave the surface a little dusty.
We continue across the vast expanses of wilderness for a first-hand, encounter with the country's
most abundant natural resource...
Beyond these rocky crags and along this winding road lies Hellisheide Geothermal Power Station...
...the second largest of its kind in the world.
The plant opened in 2006 and has since undergone several expansions. Today, Iceland is one
of the world's foremost leaders in geothermal technology.
Nearly all the nation's electricity is produced using renewable resources such as geothermal
and hydro-electric power. An estimated 90% of the population uses 'green' energy.
Iceland may be young from a geological perspective, but its first inhabitants arrived here long
before Europeans settled in the Americas.
Situated on the banks of the Olfusa River is Selfoss, Iceland's first inland town.
There's been a settlement here for over a thousand years.
It gained important significance after the first bridge spanning the Olfusa River was
built here in 1891. Until that time, traffic had to be ferried across rough, dangerous
waters of the fast-flowing river.
We return to the coast at Eyrarbakki, once Iceland's largest trade port and cultural
hub.
Local lore tells of a sailor from this town named Lief Erikson, who was compelled by the
rumour of a strange new land beyond the Atlantic Ocean, told to him by a seafarer who'd been
blown off course.
The truth may never be known, but many historians now credit Leif Erikson as the first European
to set foot on North American soil 500 years before Columbus.
As we follow the coastline we come to the nearby fishing village of Stokkseyri.
In addition to its small human population, nearly 70 species of birds have been recorded.
Amid five square km of flood meadows and ponds, these wetlands have been designated the Floi
Bird nature reserve.
The entire surrounding area is part of the massive Pjorsa Lava plain.
Pjorsa is the largest post-Ice Age lava flow on earth.
For local sailors stirring clear of Iceland's most traitorous stretches of shoreline has
been a challenge for centuries.
Keeping careful watch over the rocky shore is Knarraros Lighthouse.
Since its construction in 1938, it has played a critical role for vessels sailing in the
region.
With barely fertile lava plains as far as the eye can see, it's understandable why most
early inhabitants chose to be near the coast.
Further inland, settlements grew beside rivers.
This sparsely scattered village of Pykkvibaer has sustained itself with fish from the Holsa
River since the arrival of its first inhabitants in the 9th century. Today, anglers depend
on a carefully planned program to replenish the salmon and trout stock. An increasing
number of tourists visit Pykkvibaer to enjoy one of the country's premier fishing experiences.
Protecting the country's natural resources is an important part of Icelandic culture.
The use of fertilizers and pesticides are strictly limited. Pollution from nitrogen
and phosphorus are virtually nonexistent in Iceland's rivers and lakes.
Life is usually peaceful for those living in the shadow of Katla, even though it's one
of Iceland's most dangerous volcanoes.
On average, there's an eruption every 60 years, and the next is long overdue.
But molten lava and ash aren't the only cause for concern. Melt from the glacier has led
to catastrophic flooding in the past.
Just off the southern coast, we find another of Iceland's most active volcanic locations,
the Westman Islands.
The name refers to the Irish people who fled here after escaping slavery on Iceland's
mainland. The Irish were called 'Westmen' because Ireland was the westernmost country
known to Nordic people at that time.
We spot a whaling ship heading out in hope of a catch.
It's one of only three countries where commercial whaling is still permitted, although not without
criticism from conservationists.
Formed by underwater volcanic activity, the Westmans are made up of over 50 islands, pillars,
and rocks, all teeming with bird and marine life.
The largest and only populated one is Heimaey. Measuring 13 and a half sq km, both the island
and its population continue to grow.
But humans aren't the sole inhabitants. The archipelago also hosts the largest puffin
colony on earth.
An estimated 30% of the world's puffins can be seen nesting here in the summer months.
Although fishing has long been Heimaey Island's most important industry, a growing portion
of the local economy now depends on puffin-related tourism.
Icelanders have always found creative ways to utilize their natural resources, and the
island's small airport is no exception - Lava and ash from the most recent volcanic
eruption were used to refurbish and extend the runway.
The tale of the Algerian pirate raid in 1627 still resonates with locals.
Landing at Vestmannaeyjar Airport must be an extraordinary experience for first-time
visitors...
...since, on stepping out of the terminal, you're greeted by a dominating volcano only
a few hundred metres away.
It's one of two on the island that lie side by side and are part of the Vestmannaeyjar
volcanic belt – a system that covers almost 900 square kilometres.
The smaller volcano is Helgafell, or 'Holy Mountain'. This 227 metre cinder cone last
erupted 5,000 years ago, and is no longer considered to be active.
Its neighbour on the other hand, has not been so quiet…
With no sign of seismic activity for the moment, Eldfell, or 'Fire Mountain', makes for
a nice afternoon hike. But a massive eruption just a few decades ago resulted in the town's
nickname: 'Pompeii of the North'.
On 23rd January 1973, a 1600-metre crack burst open on Eldfell's east side. Glowing fountains
of lava spewed 150 metres into the air for several weeks.
The eruption eventually slowed, but lava continued to flow for another five months. By June,
417 houses were destroyed, and the town was covered with 250 million cubic metres of ash
and volcanic debris.
But the damage would have been much greater had it not been for a few brave souls and
a clever attempt to stop the advancing wall of lava.
Fire-fighters laid 30 km of pipeline and used 43 pumps to douse the lava with icy seawater
from the North Atlantic.
It was the first such attempt anywhere in the world, and the monumental effort paid
off.
They were able to halt the flow and save most of the town.
Geologically, the Westmans are quite new... less than 10,000 years old.
But Icelanders and scientists from around the world were in for quite a surprise when
a totally new island suddenly emerged.
Surtsey first appeared one November day in 1963 as a column of thick, black dust rising
from the ocean.
By the second day, a mound of cooling rock was protruding 10 metres above the waves.
The eruption continued for another 4 years. By then, the island had spread nearly 3 sq
km, and reached a height of 170 metres.
Surtsey's unexpected appearance offered an invaluable opportunity for scientists.
Processes such as soil creation and the development of plant and wildlife species could be directly
observed.
Aside from members of the island's small research centre, human contact with Surtsey
Island is strictly prohibited. Restrictions also limit diving, boating, and even flying
nearby.
The select few allowed to visit must take careful precautions to avoid accidentally
introducing seeds or insects into the island's ecosystem.
The United Nations organisation, UNESCO, saw Surtsey as a pristine natural laboratory to
be treasured and protected. And, as such, was declared a World Heritage Site in 2008.
It's the new addition to the spectacular Westman Islands that continue to tell the story of
our forever changing planet.
A perfect place...
...to end this journey.