苏格兰西海岸上的阿盖尔 Argyll on the west coast of Scotland.
这处涵盖山峦 岛屿和狭长海湾的原始地貌 This ancient landscape of mountains
曾是苏格兰民族的摇篮 was once the cradle of the Scottish nation.
也是在过去两百年来激励了来宾 It's also a place that's inspired visitors and tourists
和游客们的地方 for the last 200 years
吸引他们来的是无与伦比的景色 drawn here by the incomparable scenery
以及由两千年的神话与传说所烘托出的奇异氛围 and a haunting atmosphere shaped by 2
我常说 如果你想要体验真正的苏格兰 I've always said that if you want to experience the real Scotland
这个国家最具灵性的地方 the true spiritual heart of the country
那么你就应该来到阿盖尔 then you should come here to Argyll.
即使是像今天这样灰沉沉有风的日子 And even on a grey
这个地方仍有着一股魔力 this place has a magic all of its own.
但接着我得说了 可不? 这是我成长的地方 But then I would say that
孩童时期 苏格兰对我而言是个谜 As a child
直到我父亲重新发现了 until my father rediscovered
布莱克之苏格兰美景指南的一本旧版本 an old copy of Black's Picturesque Guide To Scotland.
它已存于我家族中数代 It had been in my family for generations
在维多利亚时期 它是最具影响力的旅游指南 and
受到布莱克书中所指路途的启发 我父亲带着我们走遍全国 Inspired by the route suggested by Black's
寻找苏格兰独特之处 searching for Scotland's special places.
如今过去了40年 Now
我将让布莱克指南的书页再度指引着我 I'm letting the pages of Black's guide me again
我将循着早期旅行者们的足迹 as I follow in the footsteps of the early tourists.
旅途之上 On my grand tour
我还将发现一些早期旅行作家们的作品 I'll also discover the works of some early travel writers
他们来此正为探寻苏格兰的真正灵魂 who came in search of the true spirit of Scotland.
苏格兰盛大之旅
EP5 苏格兰之魂 =========记录片之家倾情奉献========= 本字幕仅供学习交流，严禁用于商业用途 翻译:LSCAROLLI 校对:LSCAROLLI
我的盛大之旅始于克莱德湾的北边叫考尔的地方 My grand tour begins just north of the Firth of Clyde in Cowal
将顺着已淡出人们记忆的轮船线路网 and follows a network of now-forgotten steamer routes
从湖到湖 最后抵达童话般的艾莱岛 from loch to loch
是西方的威士忌之都 the whisky capital of the west.
这是埃克湖 This is Loch Eck.
据布莱克指南称 According to Black's guide
"埃克湖是一汪非常宜人的小型湖 "Loch Eck is a very pleasing miniature lake
位于优美的绿色山峦环绕之中 "embosomed in green mountains of graceful and rounded outline.
它静静地躺着 得到考尔绿色山陵的 "Soft it seems to lie and tenderly protected
温柔的保护" "amongst the green hills of Cowal."
秉着探险精神 如人们所说 我将自己驾着只独木舟 In the spirit of adventure
这种情形下是只漂亮的罗布罗伊独木舟复制品 In this case
原舟建于19世纪90年代 built in the 1890s.
尽管在布莱克的指南中没有提及 'Although Black's guide book doesn't have anything to say
作为消遣的独木舟 'about canoeing as a pastime
越来越多的维多利亚时期的绅士 'increasing numbers of Victorian gentlemen
受到舟行苏格兰这般大胆冒险活动的激发 'were inspired by the daring adventures of a canoeing Scot.'
约翰·麦格雷戈是罗布罗伊休闲舟的发明者 John MacGregor
年轻时 约翰·麦格雷戈游历过了加拿大的荒野 As a young man
因在那儿看到当地土著的独木舟而受到启发 and was inspired by the Native American canoes he saw there.
回到苏格兰后 他决定要造自己的 When he got back to Scotland
称它为罗布罗伊是为纪念其杰出的麦格雷戈祖先 and named it Rob Roy in honour of his illustrious MacGregor ancestors.
他曾将他的旅行写成极妙的故事 名为 He wrote about his travels in a ripping yarn called
"罗布罗伊独木舟万里行" A Thousand Miles In The Rob Roy Canoe.
"将补给放上船后 我将它推入潮水中 "After taking on supplies
点上根雪茄 感到我已经出发了 "lit a cigar and felt I had really started.
但接着便有了自由和新奇的奇妙感觉 "But then began a strange feeling of freedom and novelty.
我驾的这个小舟可划浆可扬帆 "I was in a canoe which could be paddled or sailed
如果我高兴就可驶向罗马或香港" "to Rome or Hong Kong if I liked."
啊 开放水域上的自由感! Ah
这位杰出的约翰·麦格雷戈 'The illustrious John MacGregor
对于驾独木舟这话题有很多可说 'had much to say on the subject of canoeing
包括给初涉浆手的最佳着装小建议 'including tips on the best attire for the budding paddler.'
对于绅士 他建议的是法兰绒诺福克夹克 For the gentleman
法兰绒衬衫和草帽 flannel shirt and a straw hat
他说这些是划船的最佳服装 which he says is the best of all for boating.
我将自己的帽子牢牢固定在耳后 'With my own hat firmly clamped over my ears
要探索这些隔绝于世的水道 再没什么比划着 'there can be no better way of exploring these secluded waterways
一艘麦格雷戈先生的著名独木舟更好的方式了 'than by paddling one of Mr MacGregor's famous canoes.'
我就是在埃克湖附近长大的 I grew up close to the shores of Loch Eck
自然我会有点点偏向 so I'm naturally a wee bit biased
但对我而言 这里是全苏格兰境内最美的 but for me this has to be one of the prettiest stretches of water
水域之一了 to be found anywhere in Scotland.
我还是孩子时 我没有意识到 'When I was a boy
埃克湖在苏格兰旅游业发展中曾经起到的作用 'that Loch Eck once played in the development of Scottish tourism.'
1827年 天才的开创性轮机工程师大卫·内皮尔 In 1827
建造了世界上首批铁船之一 built one of the world's first iron ships
来将避风港里的游客们运送到埃克湖水域 to carry tourists on the sheltered waters of Loch Eck.
内皮尔是位真正的创新者 Napier was a real innovator.
他想要在克莱德湾和赫布里底群岛间开启条新航线 He wanted to open up a new route from the Clyde to the Hebrides
瞅准埃克湖为捷径 and saw Loch Eck as a shortcut.
内皮尔建了旅馆 码头 船只 甚至还有轮渡 Napier built hotels
在横越大陆的区域运载乘客 to carry his passengers on overland sections
这部分区域后来得名为埃克湖线路 of what became known as the famous Loch Eck route.
今时不同往日 'Changed days.
内皮尔梦想仅存的也只是一些破烂的木制码头 'All that's left of Napier's dream are a few rotting wooden piers.'
向西进发的话 埃克湖线路 The Loch Eck route could never compete
无法和克莱德湾上 with the bulk of tourist traffic
用轮船来运送的大批客流量相竞争 using steamers on the Clyde as a way out to the west
悲哀的是 内皮尔的船只被拖上岸任由风吹日晒 and
埃克湖上已有70多年没有轮船了 and there hasn't been a steamer on Loch Eck for over 70 years.
我旅程的下一段 For the next leg of my journey
将顺着内皮尔的埃克湖线路向北 I follow Napier's Loch Eck route northwards
最后汇入到海口 finally emerging at the sea
进入可爱的费恩湖 and into lovely Loch Fyne.
尽管具冒险精神的司各特·约翰·麦格雷戈 Although the adventurous Scot John MacGregor
是首个将独木舟 或者说是皮划艇带入 was the first to bring canoeing
公众视野的人 to public attention
这项活动数十年来一直处于沉寂中 the sport remained in the doldrums for decades.
然而在1936年 两个怀揣理想的苏格兰人 But then
重新发现了自己划着独木舟的乐趣 rediscovered the delights of paddling your own canoe
他们开始了一个勇敢的旅程 for themselves when they embarked on a daring trip
以找到苏格兰的真正灵魂 to discover the true spirit of Scotland.
阿拉斯泰尔·邓尼特和他的伙伴詹姆斯·亚当 Alastair Dunnett and his friend James Adam
也被称为沙默斯 otherwise known as Seumas
他们才刚刚步入20岁 were barely out of their teens
便展开了他们的伟大探险 when they embarked on their great expedition
并在全世界得名为'独木舟小子' and became known to the world as the Canoe Boys.
裹着苏格兰短裙 带着满腔热情 Clad in kilts and as keen as mustard
阿拉斯泰尔和沙默斯出发进行11周的冒险 Alastair and Seumas set off on their eleven-week adventure
划着独木舟从克莱德湾到斯凯岛 kayaking from the Clyde to the Isle of Skye.
他们的这趟堪称男孩子冒险活动中最卓越的 Theirs was a boys' own adventure par excellence
为了解更多 我和皮划艇老手邓肯·温宁一起 and
划行在独木舟小子们当初路途的一小段上 on a short section of the Canoe Boys' original route
然后在费恩湖的一处湖湾上岸 coming ashore in a bay on Loch Fyne.
邓肯 '独木舟小子'已成为了传奇 Duncan
他们是谁 他们想要做些什么? Who were they and what were they trying to do?
他们是两个年轻记者 Well
他们想要 呃.... and they were trying to
我认为主要是两件事 do two things I think
其一是尝试运营一份面对男孩子们的杂志 名为"大剑" One was trying to run a magazine for boys called The Claymore
以鼓励苏格兰年青人涉足户外 to encourage the youth of Scotland in the great outdoors
以及在家门口就可以做的一些事情 and the things that were available for them to do on their doorstep.
还有个 呃.. 第二件通过其旅行他们 And one of the
努力要做的是 through their trip
是非常渴望推动 was they were very keen in promoting
诸岛以及高地的 a revival in the economic activity
经济活动复苏 in the islands and in the Highlands.
'独木舟小子'感兴趣的不是旅行指南上的苏格兰 The Canoe Boys weren't interested in the Scotland of guide books.
他们关心的是现代高地人所处的困境 They were concerned with the plight of the modern Highlander
而非浪漫形象 not the romantic image.
但听说他们大名的公众不会像关注 But the reading public cared less for their politics
伟大冒险的新鲜事那样关心他们的政治 than the novelty of their great adventure.
令人兴奋的是 这两位独木舟新手 The excitement of two canoeing novices
在用螺钉和线材造出的小船里直面各种天气 braving the elements in boats held together by screws and wire.
我想他们出发的时候是在9月 印象中是 I think it was something like September they set off
当他们向西海岸进发时 and as they progressed up the west coast
当然天气变得越来越糟糕 of course the weather deteriorated and deteriorated
他们最终在洛哈尔什海峡完成了他们史诗般旅程 and they ended up finishing their epic journey at Kyle of Lochalsh.
在我看来 '独木舟小子'的行为是相当勇敢的 It seems to me that the Canoe Boys were pretty brave in what they did.
呃 他们确实是的 Er
和现代皮划艇手相比 他们更难 Compared to modern canoeists
他们经受了很多严苛的环境 They put up with a lot of harsh conditions.
他们让自己深入龙潭虎穴 是的 那个... They threw themselves in at the deep end. So
真的是那样 是的! Almost literally there. Yes!
这么说吧 我不认为我会做他们那种事 Let's put it this way
我也不认为我会! Don't think I would have
让邓肯划着小舟回去 Leaving Duncan to paddle home
我走我的水路 从费恩湖到因弗拉里 I make my watery way across Loch Fyne to Inverary
它是阿盖尔的高地首府 the Highland capital of Argyll.
据布莱克所说 According to Black's
"它所在的地方有着绝伦之美 "Its situation is exceedingly beautiful.
在这里 大自然如此宏大而壮观 "Here nature is so vast and grand
艺术品在她面前也会黯然失色" "that works of art diminish in her awful presence."
对于崇拜因维拉里 并不仅仅只有布莱克 Black's was not alone in admiring Inveraray.
著名哲学家埃德蒙·伯克认为这儿的景致 The eminent philosopher Edmund Burke considered the landscape here
代表了无上美感的精髓 to represent the quintessence of sublime beauty.
他觉得这景色太美了 'He thought the scenery was stunning.'
艺术家特纳也是如此 So too did the artist Turner
他用水彩来捕捉景色的魔力 who captured the magic of the scene in watercolours
而1796年的早期旅行者莎拉·默里 and in 1796 the early travel writer Sarah Murray
认为因维拉里地区是"苏格兰最高贵之处" considered Inveraray to be
尽管她因糟糕的天气而份外沮丧! Although she was dismayed by the miserable weather!
因维拉里城堡-阿盖尔公爵坎贝尔家族的家 Inveraray Castle
近两百年来一直吸引着游客们 has been attracting tourists for almost 200 years.
事实上 它是布莱克的头号推荐- In fact
尽管我得说我这位老向导用的语调 although I have to say the tone adopted by my old guide
有些言过其实了 is a bit obsequious.
实际上有些谄媚了 比如在这里 In fact
"城堡和底层民众是紧密相连的 "The castle is reached through the grounds which
由于高贵的所有者的慷慨 城堡对公众开放" "by the liberality of the noble proprietor
但不是所有的游客都被公爵的那一套给蒙到了 But not all visitors were overawed by the Ducal pile.
1787年 诗人罗伯特·彭斯来到了镇子上 In 1787
以尖锐的笔触写下了他所见到的社会反差 and wrote pointedly about the social divisions he found here.
"对于旅居此地的人 "Who e'er he be who sojourns here
我很同情他 "I pity much his case
除非他来此是为服侍 "Unless he's come to wait upon
领主 他们的神 他的大人" "The Lord
数年后 诗人威廉·华兹华斯和他的妹妹多萝西 A few years later
在他们的高地之旅中来到了镇上 visited the town on their Highland tour
他们也看到了强烈反差 and they
分别是城堡中公爵的财富 between the wealth of the Duke in his castle
和平民大众的贫困 and the poverty in the streets.
"我们经过镇子 "We passed through the town
它是苏格兰污秽的可悲例子 "which is a doleful example of Scotch filth.
一幅凄凉光景 "A melancholy spectacle
对它的理解或是罪恶或是极度悲惨" "giving the notion of either vice or extreme wretchedness."
可喜的是 在当今因维拉里的起风的 Happily
街道上没有"苏格兰污秽"的迹象 on the windy streets of Inveraray today
而似乎是一尘不染 which seems spotlessly clean
人们也都是善良友好的 and peopled exclusively by the virtuous.
然而要了解更多关于 But to find out more about the gulf
恶与善 富与贫之间的鸿沟 between vice and virtue
我来到了另一处游客们喜爱的地方-监狱 I've come to another popular tourist attraction - the jail.
迎接我的厉害人物是汉娜·尼克森 I'm met by the formidable figure of Hannah Nixon.
嗨 汉娜 下午好 很高兴见到你 Hello
扮演的是监狱长的角色 'In her role as prison matron
汉娜的工作就是教育和娱乐当代游客 'it's Hannah's job to educate and entertain modern tourists
在带领他们参观这处曾是可怕的刑狱时 'on visits to this once grim penal institution.'
这是所旧监狱 我会带你去间牢房 This is the old prison. I'll take you to a cell
会展示给你它早期时是什么样子的 which shows you how it really was in the early days.
-这里起用的时间是在1820年 -好的 -You're talking about 1820
最初每间牢房会有三 四名犯人 You would have three
-在这里可以看到 -这么个小地方? -You can see here this. -In this small space?
就在这个小地方 对的 要知道 都睡在地上 In this small space. Right. You know
男人 女人 儿童 精神病犯人 都在狱中 Men
这儿的犯人有个很好的例子 是在1820年 You've got a good example here of a prisoner that was in
他这个犯人有幽默感 他会在墙上写字 He's a prisoner with a sense of humour. He's written on the wall
"6月26日有房出让" "A room to let to the 26th day of June.
"申请已被提交至邓肯·坎贝尔 典狱长" "Application to be made to Duncan Campbell
-"休·柯里永远离开了" -没错 -"Hugh Currie is off forever." -Right.
因此如果你想要间牢房用 他走了 So if you're wanting a cell to live in
如果你申请了就可以有这个 You can have this if you make the application.
在因维拉里的角色扮演是现在游客的节目之一 'Role play at Inveraray is part of a modern tourist experience.
不仅会有位典狱长 'Not only is there a prison matron
我还将去见其中的一位狱友 'I'm about to meet one of the inmates
-另个牢房里有个犯人 -还有个犯人 这是伊丽莎白 -Another cell and a prisoner. -And a prisoner. This is Elizabeth.
这便是说明改革正在进行的好例子 This is a good example of the reforms kicking in now.
1841年的清洁条例 犯人们就得要忍受着 1841 and the cleanliness prisoners would have to endure
-是的 她看上去可不高兴 -她不幸染上了虱子 Right. She doesn't look very happy. Well
她自己没有洗干净 所以我们就不得不采取些极端措施 She wouldn't wash properly
希望你的胃还不差 I hope you've not got a weak stomach.
-我的胃有些不好 -伊丽莎白 请摘掉你的帽子 -I've a slightly weak one. -Elizabeth
我们得给你剃头 We have had to shave her head.
如果你不好好洗 这就是会发生的事 If you don't wash properly
是的 这是给你个教训 好吗? Right. It's to teach you a lesson. All right?
-老实点? -是的 狱长 -Behaving yourself? -Yes
她是因偷窃进来的 She's in for theft. She's in for theft.
你偷了什么? So what did you steal?
我在达农我工作的旅馆里偷了两只银壶 I stole two silver jugs from a hotel in Dunoon where I was working.
好吧 你的刑期有多长? Right. And how long did you get?
有两年半 先生 两年半 I got 2.5years
也就是一只壶给判一年三个月 So that's one year and three months per jug.
-是吗 先生? -你觉得那值得吗? -那是在那个时候呀 先生 -Is it
尽管有监狱改革 'Despite prison reforms
维多利亚时期的犯罪仍受到严厉惩罚 'crime was still harshly punished in Victorian times.'
这便是随着苏格兰改革而来的惩罚之例子 So this is an example of punishments set with the Reforms of Scotland.
-这张是鞭刑台 -鞭刑台? -This is the whipping table. -A whipping table?
如果你不守规矩 就会被打 So if you disobey our rules here
-这只针对男性 还有男孩 -男孩? -Now
只有7岁大的儿童也会进监狱 Children as young as seven would come to this prison.
如果不守规矩 孩子也会被打 If you disobey our rules
-用这个打? -是的 那是桦条 -And beaten with this? -Yes
-这个装置怎么用的? -最好的方式就是来演示下 先生 -So how did this contraption work? -The best way is to demonstrate
-如果我拿掉这个 你就可以躺上去 -好的 -If I take that and you'd like to lie up there. -OK.
-看起来没什么大不了 -俯卧 -It looks quite innocuous. -On your stomach.
有点像 说不清楚 像按摩台之类的 It's a bit like a
它不会像是按摩的 先生 It won't feel like a massage
-我把胳膊伸过这里? -伸过去 先生 好了 -I put my arms through here? -Straight through. OK.
在因维拉里监狱 游客们被鼓励着尝试下 'At Inveraray Jail
监狱生活中最可怕的方面 'even the grimmest aspects of prison life.
这种尝试有时便是挨打 'The experience can sometimes take quite a beating.'
哦! 不要! 哦! Ooh! Please! Ooh!
很痛啊 很痛 That was painful. That was painful.
呃...有些滑稽 但我觉得好奇的是 Er...slightly risible but I suppose what I find curious
度假的人为何想来监狱一游 is why people on holiday want to come to a prison.
是不是这里有某种悲惨式观光 你认为呢? Is there a kind of misery tourism going on here
是的 人们常常对跟毛骨悚然有关的东西感兴趣 There is. People have always been interested in what the macabre.
跟死亡 折磨和罪孽有关的东西 Anything to do with death
人们喜欢来 去看看那是怎么回事 People like to come
试试我们这儿有的各种不同东西 try all the different things that we have here.
对于今天的他们来说 是的 很幽默 但那也向他们展示了过去的情形 Today
随着狱长领着我从监狱回到自由身 'As matron leads me back through the prison to freedom
她告诉我在维多利亚时代 'she tells me that in Victorian times
人们也会在度假的时候参观这样的监狱 'people would go on holiday and visit prisons like this.
想来有趣的是在一个世纪后 'It's amusing to think that a century later
现代游客们仍会做相同的事情 'modern tourists are still doing the same thing.
回到因维拉里的街道上 'Back on the streets of Inveraray
好像淋到了一滴雨 'it looks as if were in for a spot of rain.
在天气变得糟糕之前 'Before I catch the worst of the weather
是时候继续前进 翻过这些山去下个目的地- 'it's time to move on and over the hills to my next destination -
阿韦湖 'Loch Awe.'
阿韦湖是苏格兰最长的淡水湖 Loch Awe is the longest freshwater loch in Scotland
毫无疑问的它是 and is
绝对的珍宝 无论是何种天气 an absolute treasure
布莱克对它是赞美有加 描述这个湖为 Black's is fulsome in its praises
"一块闪亮的宝石 绿树成荫的小岛 "A glittering jewel with green bowered islands
栖在湖中心" "nestling on the bosom of the lake."
今天不是! Not today it isn't!
无论是晴是雨 维多利亚人很快就发现 Come rain or shine
可爱的阿韦湖具有的旅游潜力 the tourist potential of lovely Loch Awe.
曾一度有多达15艘轮船 And at one time
行驶于树木苍然的小岛之中 sailed among the wooded islands.
当然进步即意味着 But of course progress has meant
这些优雅的小船所遭遇的命运 these elegant little ships suffered the same fate
和苏格兰众湖上近全部的其它轮船一样 as nearly all the other steamers on Scotland's lochs.
它们多年前就给废弃了 They were scrapped years ago.
轮船可能消失了 The steamer may have gone
但这景色仍旧和维多利亚时代 but the landscape is just as spectacular and wild
一样的壮观和野性 as it was when Victorian tourists
当时的维多利亚游客们在湖中小岛间 were told enthralling legends about the landscape
航行之时会听到迷人的景区传说 as they sailed amongst the islands of the loch.
他们听到的这些浪漫故事 'Hearing these romantic tales told to them
是由身着短裙的高地向导讲述的 'by their kilted Highland guides
有这么棒的背景 'in this wonderful setting
使维多利亚游客们感到与苏格兰的灵魂很靠近 'made Victorian tourists feel close to the true spirit of Scotland.'
在这里 每座岛 每个湖滩和海湾都有其自己的故事 'Here
传统中的一部分将阿韦湖和传奇过去联系在一起 'Part of a tradition that connects Loch Awe to an epic past.'
在我顺着湖水一路下去之时 As I make my way down the loch
我正经历两千年的历史 I am passing through 2
前往这个民族的摇篮 heading for the cradle of the nation.
这里是基尔马丁峡谷 This is Kilmartin Glen.
我一直认为阿盖尔的这部分有其独特魔力 I've always thought that this part of Argyll has a magic of its own.
这儿有某种质感的光线 There's something about the quality of light here
可远望到诸岛 the distant views to the islands
有长长的海湾和树木众生的山坡 the long sea lochs and the roughly wooded hillsides
真是相当地有气氛 that's particularly atmospheric.
这个地方在苏格兰民族历史上 It's also a place with a special significance
还有特殊的重要性 in the history of the Scottish nation.
基尔马丁峡谷是苏格兰石器时期 Kilmartin Glen has one of the most important concentrations
和青铜时期遗迹最集中的地区之一 of Neolithic and Bronze Age remains in Scotland.
短短几英里范围内就有超过350座远古古迹 Within just a few miles there are over 350 ancient monuments
使得这处曾对我们先祖来说神圣的地方 making this a unique ceremonial landscape
成为了独特的有纪念意义的景区 that was once sacred to our ancestors.
三千年来 这个苏格兰潮湿的弹丸之地 For 3
一直是不同民族 不同文化的 was an important centre for different people
重要中心 and different cultures
从石器时期一直到基督时期的早年 from the Stone Age right up to the early Christian period
那时我们所称之为苏格兰的国度开始成形 when the country we now call Scotland was coming into being.
和这个故事相关的所有远古古迹中最打动人 The most striking and significant of all the ancient monuments
也最重要的可以在杜纳德这儿找到 associated with this story can be found right here at Dunadd.
这看上去不起眼 Now
但这座小山正是国家历史开始的地方 but this small rocky hill is where the story of the nation begins.
这里是苏格兰的摇篮 This is the cradle of Scotland.
1千6百年前 有座要塞矗立在这座山头 1
多年后 它成为了一处游客们的朝圣地 Over the years
正是在这块神圣的石头上面 And it was up here on a sacred stone
戴尔里亚达的国王们被赋予皇族的权力 that the Kings of Dal Riada were invested with their royal powers.
据说所发生的一切就是在这里 Now
这边在岩石上有个足迹 Over here is a stone footprint cut into the rock
根据考古学家的说法 and
这里便是国王站立其上的地方 this is where the King to be would have placed his own foot
这个仪式是为象征凡人界和神界的联合 in a ritual act that symbolised the union of the human world with the divine.
我是第一个注意到 Now
这尊贵的脚印有点 呃 太小了 that this Kingly footprint is a bit
我得说它大概是3码的 Now I'd say that was probably a size 3.
从顶峰这儿你就可以 You can get a sense of why Dunadd
感受一下为何杜纳德对于远古世界来说这么重要 was so important to the ancient world from the summit.
它位于这个地区的中心处 It lies at the centre of a landscape
遍布着可算说神秘的氛围 that has an almost mystical atmosphere.
在这上面 你可强烈地感到 Up here you get a powerful feeling
和遥远的过去有着某种接触 of being in touch with the distant past.
在我看来 这便是为何我会认为这里是苏格兰的灵魂中心 Which is why
但还有另一个地方声称为灵魂中心 But there is another contender for the title of spiritual heart
要去到那儿 我得坐船去岛上 and to get there I have to sail to the islands.
我旅程的下一段 On the next leg of my journey
我将跨海前去艾莱- I'm crossing the sea to Islay -
威士忌的精神故乡 the spiritual home of whisky.
但这不是定点就开的轮渡 But this is no scheduled ferry service.
为重溯曾经穿越西海岸的轮船线路 To retrace the old steamer routes that once crossed the west coast
我和桑迪·坎贝尔一起登上现代机动游船'西部探险'号 I joined Sandy Campbell aboard the modern motor cruiser Venture West.
桑迪 你从事的是哪一行? Sandy
呃 只是租赁船只 Er
带人们去他们想去的地方 还有些观野生动物之旅 Take people where they want to be
以及考里雷肯大漩涡之旅 and Corryvreckan trips to the whirlpool.
经常性的...它是观赏野生动物的好地方 There's usually...it's quite a good kind of area for wildlife.
有些海鸥在筑巢 有很多海豹 There's some seagulls that nest along with...there's a lot of seals
有时有鼠海豚 或者其它海豚 and porpoise sometimes
一年中的晚些时候可以看到晒太阳的鲨鱼和小须鲸 Later on in the year we have basking shark and a minky whale around.
哦 是啊 很有趣 So
桑迪的高科技船骨和只能载数个早期 Sandy's hi-tech rib is a far cry from the steamers
游客的轮船大相径庭 that carried the few early tourists
那时的船得冒着险才能开这么远 who ventured this far off the beaten track.
如布莱克所述 As Black's notes
"向西的航线交通是由服务小众的 "The traffic of the westward isles is maintained
轮船所进行的 "by steamers of the smaller class.
当地人聚在前甲板上 "The natives herding on the foredeck
操着盖尔语方言 "Gaelic their dialect
没人会相信他们会信守绝对禁酒" "and teetotalism a creed little believed in."
我觉得相当奇怪的是 我这位向导 I think it's odd that my guide should make
对于普通人可以从酒精中获得的 such a sneering reference to the pleasures
快乐做了这么个讥讽的谈论 that ordinary folk could derive from alcohol
因为就在接下来 because in the very next sentence
同样的作者就赞扬起艾莱 the same writer goes on to praise Islay
有着高质量的威士忌 for the quality of its whisky.
我认为他在这儿想要表达的是 Now I think what he's trying to imply here
有钱的游客喝上些当然没有问题 is that it's OK for wealthy tourists to enjoy the water of life
但对普通大众来说就丢脸了 but for ordinary people
有钱人可以鉴赏 Wealthy people could be connoisseurs.
穷人则是买醉 The poor just got drunk.
我一边思量着维多利亚时期游客的不同品行 'As I consider the mixed morals of Victorian tourists
一边享受着一大杯威士忌 'I enjoy a large glass of whisky.
我认为自己幸运的是我是品酒的而不是醉汉 'I count myself lucky that I'm a connoisseur and not a lush.'
今天来到艾莱的人 Anyone arriving in Islay today
绝不会忽视威士忌的持续重要影响 can't fail to notice the continuing importance of whisky.
每每都有名牌子迎接你 Famous names greet you at every turn.
莱根法尔林 拉弗格 波摩 Lagavulin
村子因为出产的威士忌 Villages celebrated the world over
而享誉世界 because of the whisky that comes from them.
这里是埃伦港 This is Port Ellen.
1868年 布莱克兴致勃勃地写道 In 1868
"港口上面小酒馆里可能会有项不错的娱乐 "A fair entertainment may be had in the inns above the harbour.
消费威士忌的聪明法子" "A smart trade going on in the consumption of whisky."
啊! 闻闻那个! Ah! Just smell that!
那是岛上的复杂气味 That's the tangle of the Isles.
这种好闻的结合包括有泥炭烟 海草... A wonderful combination of peat smoke
啊! ...还有威士忌 Ah! ..and whisky.
对我来说 uisge beatha(古爱尔兰语)-威士忌- For me
它的精神家园就在艾莱 has its spiritual home right here on Islay
我只是数千人中的一个会每年来拜访 and I'm just one of thousands making the pilgrimage each year
来到这个因为它的精神而出名的岛 to the island made famous because of its spirit.
我们喜欢艾莱威士忌 呃 泥炭味是我们最喜欢的 We love the
有那么多种威士忌 尝起来各不相同 There's so many different whiskies
了解它们是如何转变成不同口味的很是有趣 So it's interesting to learn about how they turn out different.
我们听说过这种威士忌好几年了 We know this whisky for a few years
但我们还是头一次直接来到艾莱这儿 but it's the first time that we are here on Islay directly.
为了解更多关于威士忌酿造的神秘技艺 'To find out more about the arcane magical art of whisky-making
我和邓肯·麦克基尔弗里一起 'I've joined Duncan McGilvery
去往布鲁莱迪酿酒厂一游 'on a tour of the Bruichladdich Distillery.
邓肯告诉我 艾莱作为威士忌鉴赏之站已有超过百年的历史了 'Duncan tells me that Islay has been on the whisky connoisseurs itinerary for well over a hundred years.
1886年 这个岛 它的饮酒习性和它的威士忌 'In 1886
均得到关爱的 详细的描述 'were all lovingly and minutely described
作者是英国人 阿尔弗雷德·伯纳德 'by an Englishman
阿尔弗雷德·伯纳德于19世纪末期调查了他所能找到的 Alfred Barnard did a survey in the late 1800s of all the distilleries
所有的位于苏格兰 英格兰和威尔士的酿酒厂 of Scotland and England and Wales
并不是说我身在那个年代 但是 呃.... Not that I was around at the time but
它是份关于他们是如何做的非常深入的调查报告 it was a very in-depth investigation into what they did.
他的成果便是 这份调查和结论是无价之宝 And his result was a survey and the conclusions are absolutely priceless.
在那个年月 很难得找到个威士忌鉴赏家因为人们... In those days it was rare to find a whisky connoisseur because people...
我是说 威士忌只是一种生活方式 也是赚钱的一种方式 I mean
现如今 很多人对于威士忌都深有了解 Nowadays
而艾莱岛上的威士忌之旅 and whisky tourism on Islay
一定是岛上面有的最大的收入来源之一 must be one of the biggest earners that there is on the island
另外还有观鸟和观景等等 along with bird watching and nature
但威士忌已成为一项旅游产业 But whisky has become very much a tourist industry.
伯纳德不仅仅详尽而热情洋溢地描写了威士忌 Barnard not only wrote extensively and passionately about whisky
他还是第一个歌颂 he was also the first to celebrate
饮酒和环境之间特殊关系的人 the special relationship between booze and the environment.
伯纳德所书写的不仅仅是威士忌 Barnard's book isn't just an account of whisky.
事实上 它还是个爱情故事 It is
这个故事是关于一个男人 The story of a man's infatuation
对于一个风景以及一个 with a landscape and a culture
产生了举世无双精神之文化的迷恋 that's produced a world-beating spirit.
为了解更多关于威士忌 旅游业以及惊艳风景 To find out more about the fruitful marriage between whisky
之间卓有成效的结合 tourism and fabulous scenery
我在杜弗里斯吧里见到了历史学家凯文·詹姆斯 I'm meeting up with historian Kevin James at Duffies Bar
这个吧里有超过250种的威士忌可选 which has over 250 brands of whisky to choose from.
显然 最贵的一杯会把你吓退 要250块 'Apparently
希望是凯文买单的 'Let's hope Kevin's buying.'
凯文 伯纳德的书在很多方面影响深远 是不是 Kevin
在促进威士忌旅游业方面? in kicking off whisky tourism?
他似乎对于苏格兰景致情有独钟 He seems to have a special love for Scottish landscape
我认为 在风景和威士忌之间还有种关联 and there's a connection
哦 绝对是的 Oh
尤其对于赫布里底群岛风景 And particularly in the Hebridean landscape.
我认为他很喜欢野性的风景 I think that he has an affection for the wildness of the landscape.
有几次他谈到.. There are occasions on which he comments on the...
那种几乎是 呃...赫布里底群岛的荒芜景色 kind of the almost
我想他将那种情感 and I think that he works that into
揉合进了他对于麦酒的赞赏中 his overall appreciation of the malts as well.
我还认为那是解读布纳德著作的一种方式 And I think that's one way of kind of casting Barnard's book
实际上整个威士忌旅游现象 and indeed the whole whisky tourism phenomenon
是人们试图要超越眼之所见的风景 而以其它方式 as people tried to penetrate beyond the visual landscape
深入到文化中去 and get into the culture by other ways.
以其它方式来感受 Engaging their senses in other ways.
-还有什么是比喝酒更好的方式呢? -确实 -And
所以说你来到艾莱不仅仅是为喝酒? So you didn't just come to Islay to drink in the landscape?
你来到艾莱 喝上一杯 同时还观赏景色 You came to Islay
或许以不同的方式观赏 And maybe saw it in different ways.
对的 你是不是认为 会品酒了 Right
一些维多利亚就认为他们有种特别的见识 some Victorians felt that they had a kind of special knowledge
不仅仅在于酒 而且在于文化 not just of the drink but of the culture
另外从某些方面来说 他们对于酒类有比 and a knowledge
当地人更全面的知识? than local people's understanding of the drink?
是的 我想他们可以称 Yeah. I think they could assert
自己有着更多对于文化的品味和欣赏 that they had a more tasteful appreciation of the culture
对于酒类自身也有着更具品味的欣赏力 and a more tasteful appreciation of the drink itself as well.
那真是很有趣 因为从很多方面来说 威士忌 uisge beatha That's really interesting because
是种烈性酒 这种危险的酒类是和起义呀 is a kind of wild drink. It's a dangerous drink associated with
詹姆斯二世党人的叛乱等联系在一起的 you know
但不知怎的 维多利亚人和旅游业驯服了这种酒 But somehow the Victorians and tourism had tamed this drink
驯服了苏格兰之魂 had tamed the spirit of Scotland.
确实 就像是驯服了苏格兰农业文化的原始的那方面 It is. It's like taming a primitive aspect of Scottish peasant culture.
也使得游客们 It's also allowing the tourist
与文化保持一段距离 to distance him or herself from the culture
而在同时又可以拿着这个文化的象征- at the same time as taking one of the icons of that culture -
威士忌-畅饮着它 whisky - and consuming it.
好了 呃 我有点.... 干杯! 干杯! Right
-呣 那不是250块一杯的 -不是 -Mm. That's not the ?50 dram. -It isn't.
阿德贝格牌的 是么? 不赖呀 真不错 不错了 Ardbeg
带上一瓶最棒的麦酒- Armed with a bottle of the finest malt -
不会突破我的预算的这瓶酒- the one that's not going to break the budget -
我离开凯文 上路前往海岸 I leave Kevin and make my way to the coast.
我自己已发现 As I've found for myself
苏格兰之魂不是轻易被驯服的 the spirit of Scotland is not easily tamed.
但那也没有阻止人们的希望 希望发现某种东西 But that doesn't deter people from hoping to discover something
能代表那个地方的精髓 that captures the essence of the place.
风景 历史和文化 The landscape
许多人声称已找到 Many claim to have found it
在湖景中 在西海岸的岛屿上 in the views of the lochs and islands of the west coast.
有些人相信它在历史中 While some believe it lies in the past
还有些人认为苏格兰之魂是一种可以瓶装的商品 others think the spirit of Scotland is a commodity that can be bottled.
在我看来 真相就在其间的某处 For me
当然了 喝威士忌有很多种方法 There are lots of different ways you can drink whisky
有的人会加冰-在岩石上- Some people take it with ice - on the rocks -
有些人喜欢加一点点水 and others like to add a wee drop of water.
也有些天杀的家伙会混着喝! And some
就个人来说 我喜欢就这么在户外喝着 Personally
一边看着大西洋 鼻中可闻到海洋的味道 with a view of the Atlantic and the smell of the sea in my nostrils.
即使是像今天这般灰沉沉的寒冷天气 And even on a grey
我想不到有更合适的地方 I can think of no more appropriate place
来体验苏格兰的真正灵魂 to experience the true spirit of Scotland.
干杯! Slainte!
下次盛大之旅请和我一起 Join me on my next Grand Tour
去寻找明媚阳光 when I go in search of sunshine.