NARRATOR: Last time on The Polar Sea...
Richard Tegner has hitched a ride
on the Russian cruise ship
Akademik Ioffe to Cambridge Bay
in the middle of the Northwest Passage.
This is the crossroads of the Arctic
where strangers meet.
Here, Inuit elders still cross paths
with the ancient race their ancestors displaced.
And here the stone age ways of the Inuit
are crossed with the space age
to create a new hybrid culture of the global village.
As the Ioffe steams away,
Richard finds himself alone again
in a surreal landscape.
RICHARD TEGNER: Little scary...
(THEME MUSIC PLAYING)
(WIND WOOSHING)
TEGNER: I must admit I am a bit,
how do you say, nervous.
I'm expecting a Catamaran from Switzerland
coming here to Cambridge Bay.
Hopefully they can take me along,
going westward all the way to Dutch Harbor.
But first of all
I have to meet the crew and the captain
and talk things over,
because I don't know them I don't know the water,
the weather and the boat.
So everything is unknown to me.
A little nervous, but it seems to be a very good boat
and lots of space,
but we'll see.
(WIND WOOSHING)
NARRATOR: More than 30 yachts
attempted the Northwest Passage this summer.
A few broke down.
A few had to be rescued. (STEAMER HONKS)
Several turned back or gave up
and beached their boats in Arctic villages.
As the season closes,
a few boats are still racing through the passage.
The Austrian boat Belle Epoque.
The Canadian yacht Traversay III.
The American ship Empiricus.
And, from Switzerland, Libellule,
the Catamaran that Richard Tegner has contacted
and hopes to hitch a ride on.
Aboard Libellule,
the family of Philipp Cottier have come to summer's end.
Marielle will depart from here to bring her daughters Anissa,
Line and Naima back to school.
(COTTIER SPEAKS GERMAN)
(SPEAKING GERMAN)
NARRATOR: As he waits for a ride,
the hitchhiker Richard Tegner
explores the tundra around Cambridge Bay.
TEGNER: In this environment,
you have a lot of time to think
and reflect over what you have done
and what you're doing
and how you behave to other people.
You never have time in daily life to really
deeply reflect on
who you are and why you're doing things.
You just do it and you're all stressed up
with your work and daily routines.
This silence also in this fantastic landscape
it sort of gives you peace
to enjoy your own thoughts.
NARRATOR: His distant companions
are the rare and unique musk ox.
They are the great survivors of the Arctic.
Two hundred thousand years ago
they grazed alongside woolly mammoths.
The mammoths died out before the last ice age.
Musk ox remained in the central Canadian Arctic
and survived the ice age.
But they might not survive the warm age.
Cambridge Bay is on Victoria Island,
in the most southerly part of the Northwest Passage.
Here, the warm wave spreading over the Arctic is visible.
In the last 30 years
green plants have moved 500 kilometers north.
On Victoria Island,
greenery has been increasing by 10% every decade.
That should be good for ruminants,
like musk ox, but it's not.
SUSAN KUTZ: Local observations are saying
there are fewer musk ox in and around
and there have been reports of dead musk ox in midsummer.
The fact that
the population around Cambridge Bay
at least seems to have declined quite substantially
is a major issue for this community.
NARRATOR: Susan Kutz is a veterinarian.
She and a team of researchers are in Cambridge Bay
to learn why a third of all musk ox have died
in the last few years.
KUTZ: We're investigating
what is it that's causing muskoxen to die on the island.
(INDISTINCT CHATTERING)
NARRATOR: The suspect is a microscopic worm
that lives in the grass and attacks the animal's lungs.
KUTZ: In 2008 we found the lung worm,
Umingmakstrongylus pallikuukensis
the first worm ever named in Inuinnaqtun.
We can count 100, 200, up to 800 cysts
of worms in their lungs.
And we know in an individual animal
that has a really big impact on them.
It is a major energy drain,
takes up a whole lot of their lung capacity.
It's going to make them the ones
that are most susceptible to predation,
so if there's bears and wolves around
those guys with the heavy infections
are the ones that will end up getting eaten.
Previously, we didn't think
the lung worm could survive up here
because of the climatic conditions.
The temperatures just weren't adequate on Victoria Island
for it to establish,
but given the climate change scenarios
it seemed that, yes, it could establish up here.
Muskoxen, particularly on the Arctic islands,
are very important to the local people
for a number of reasons.
First and foremost they're a part of their culture.
Going out musk ox hunting,
caribou hunting is part of the Inuit culture.
They've depended on these animals
for thousands of years
and having access to those for food,
for cultural activities
is really, really important.
(HELICOPTER WHIRRING)
NARRATOR: The researchers work with village elders
to survey musk ox
and estimate how many can be sustainably hunted.
The results are not encouraging.
Guys, can you just make sure that you look in the window
and count them?
LISA-MARIE LECLERC: We basically just at the start of the survey
and we cannot make any prediction.
It's really hard to,
to see how it's going to go,
but the hunter have a hard time
to find the musk ox around Cambridge Bay.
They have to go farther and farther inland.
So, of course they might just have moved north
or the population might have depleted.
So that's what we're here for, to answer all these questions.
Right now we didn't see any musk ox
and we are about three quarters of the way.
We're at 70 degree north.
LECLERC: There used to be musk ox around Cambridge Bay,
but now they don't see many anymore
so by knowing a little bit more
of where they are now,
we could work with the community
to try to bring them back,
if possible, to change maybe our action or behavior,
to actually have musk ox again around Cambridge Bay.
NARRATOR: She's part of a new generation of young scientists
drawn to the warming north,
intrigued by its changes and compelled by its beauty.
LECLERC: My first time in the north was a very exclusive
and bonding experience
and after my first week
um, there was a, I wouldn't...
I needed to be
above the Arctic circle.
The serenity, the whiteness,
the challenge, the environment,
it was very special to me,
and I think I find my home.
I've been working in the north since 1988.
I guess, I fell in love with it
the first time I came north.
KUTZ: Canada's incredibly lucky
to have this spectacular landscape up here.
The landscape, the people, the animals, the freedom,
it's gorgeous,
and what else can I say? (LAUGHS)
TEGNER: I think the Arctic gets under your skin.
It pours into you
and you get all overwhelmed by it.
Many people look at this as an uncomfortable trip.
And most people don't like to be uncomfortable.
But...
Maybe a few of my friends
would like to do it, but...
Actually, quite few I think.
The most frightening moment was
when I had to decide
whether I should enter the Libellule.
What do they expect of me?
I don't know them, they don't know me.
And anything could happen.
Hey, Richard! Hello!
Hello. Hello. (LAUGHS)
Long time no see! Yes.
Have you had a rough sail here?
PHILIPP COTTIER: The last few days were okay,
but the ice before was very tough.
Much tougher than we expected.
I felt so sorry for you. I watched you from the deck.
You were stuck at the ice edge outside Bellot Strait.
Oh, yeah, you saw us? TEGNER: Yes.
You were on the Akademik Ioffe.
Yes, of course. Yes!
It's funny how pieces connect, you know,
our engine breaking down
and you coming up here a little bit late.
What about your two friends?
Well, I haven't spoke to them, actually.
I've heard from second source
and I've tried to get in main contact,
but the engine broke down totally.
COTTIER: So how was the cruise ship, it must have been incredible.
Yes, that was quite some contrast.
To a damp small
boat with grumpy old men and joining this cruise ship.
MARIELLE DONZE: But I hope you enjoy the warm you know in the,
on this boat, because on our boat...
You will be freezing. Yes.
I hope you have lots of clothes.
TEGNER: I couldn't know how it would be
so I was a bit
hesitating whether I would jump on this or not,
because, you know, obviously
wealthy people can afford to have a crew
and a wonderful boat like this.
That's also contrast from the little DAX.
(COTTIER SPEAKING GERMAN)
NARRATOR: Philipp and professional sailors, Yves and Sylvan
will be joined by Philipp's uncle Michael
who has flown here to meet them.
They hope to set a new record for the Northwest Passage.
(COTTIER SPEAKING GERMAN)
(LAUGHS)
(SPEAKS GERMAN)
(COTTIER SPEAKING GERMAN)
NARRATOR 2 (FROM FOOTAGE): The Eskimo is a nomad hunter.
Constantly on the move in search of food.
Food for himself, his family, and his dogs.
Without dogs, he could not travel
and to the extent that he must travel to find food,
his life depends on his dog team.
As young pups, they lead a carefree life
playing with each other or with the children.
NARRATOR: Hunting is still required for survival here.
Some hunters still use dog teams.
But, now, as climate change kills off animals,
hunting is getting harder.
(SEAGULLS CALLING)
As goes the hunting, so go the sled dogs.
(ENGINE WHIRRING)
KUTZ: One of the only ways to control dogs
has been to go and shoot them.
If there are too many dogs there has been no other option
so they've had to be shot.
People in the community don't like that.
You know, they hate to see that happening.
Is it good?
(INDISTINCT CHATTERING)
KUTZ: We are doing vet clinics. This is the first time
this town has had vets here for the last...
Since about three years ago.
Been incredibly busy.
There are a lot of dogs here. And we're having a great time.
KUTZ: Okay, let's just bring Betsy in first,
leave Bella outside.
(DOG YELPS)
Where do you want her? Okay.
How are you this morning?
KUTZ: Most of what we're doing here is spays and neuters.
We really want to help these animals out
help the town out by reducing the population of animals
so 95% of what we do is that.
♪ Amazing grace
♪ How sweet the sound ♪
(VOCALIZING)
Just a little more.
Definitely down. (CHUCKLES)
KUTZ: I think a lot of these communities are in transition.
Dogs used to be working animals.
They pulled sleds. They packed food.
They were part of everyday life.
And they were essential for everyday life.
I think what we're seeing now
is dogs are becoming more pets.
People are bonding with them a little bit more.
You're okay.
We don't let them sleep outside,
we just leave them in.
They're really good pets. They're nice to have
and they're really friendly.
AUDREY REMEDIOS: Before we came here people had not access
to veterinary health care.
So animals would not be sterilized,
would not be spayed or neutered.
They wouldn't be vaccinated.
So there would be a lot more disease
that would be rampant in the community.
She likes her food she likes to eat. Doesn't she?
She loves it.
(LAUGHS)
WOMAN: She's my queen.
♪ Ah, for just one time
♪ I would take the Northwest Passage
♪ To find the hand of Franklin
♪ Reaching for the Beaufort Sea
♪ Tracing one warm line
♪ Through a land so wide and savage
♪ And make the Northwest Passage to the sea ♪
(AIRPLANE FLYING OVERHEAD)
COTTIER: The plan is to start in Cambridge Bay, obviously
then head through these quite narrow straits or coves
which are very shallow
so we'll have to be prudent with rocks and all that.
Coronation Cove, Dolphin Cove, Amundsen Cove
are very famous.
We need the electronic charts quite a bit
and hard copy charts.
And then we'll reach Cape Bathurst
where there's a lot of ice as you probably saw
on the ice charts.
So we'll have to be careful, see how we get through there.
Might have to hang out a couple of days here
to wait for some eastwardly winds to push it away.
And then we'll hopefully stop over in Tuktoyaktuk.
After that it's going to be a very long and boring stretch,
five to seven days of quite rough sailing
along the Alaskan coast and around Barrow.
We'll do that in one stretch as quickly as possible
to get out of the waves and winds
and especially the sea ice
which is expected to be quite early this year again.
How far is this stretch
from Tuktoyaktuk to Point Barrow?
It's like 700 miles.
Hmm. Okay.
So it's quite long, day and night sailing.
TEGNER: Yes.
At least five days... Mmm.
...depending on wind.
I'm more than happy if I can get along
and to get to Nome or Tuktoyaktuk or even Dutch Harbor that's
far beyond my expectations to do it this way.
So I am really happy that
we have established contact.
(SEAGULLS CALLING)
Since you picked me up here,
I might want to know what your expectations are for me
on board this wonderful vessel.
Yeah, washing the toilets every morning, no, no, no.
Okay, I do that. What else?
We five, we'll share all the work
so everyone is equal.
This means,
cooking, cleaning, the usual shifts.
The unfortunate new news is that
the autopilot doesn't work very well in these waters.
The reason being that
the magnetic North Pole is quite close.
And so the compass needle just goes crazy.
So some directions work quite well
so you can use the autopilot,
but a lot of the time we have to steer manually.
Yes, and we have the GPS system on board.
Everything on the screen, we have everything here,
we have all the ropes, the sheets, the whole yards,
everything, so it's quite convenient, but it's work.
In these temperatures. Mmm.
Very often in my life I have been avoiding situations
because I've been afraid and I said "No, I won't do.
"I will go, I will go on.
"It will be fine. I will..."
It will be good thing, I think.
(STAN ROGERS NORTHWEST PASSAGE PLAYING)
It's a nice cabin, isn't it?
I have a sky light
and I have a...
If you come closer here I have an ex...
Exit.
You see, I can
jump in the water whenever I want to.
The toilet and shower.
There is a heater inside here so I could put on the heater
to dry the gear.
That got wet.
Here we have the food store.
French delicacy,
Cassoulet Au Canard.
Yes, duck.
TEGNER: So, this is my first day
on the Catamaran Libellule.
I feel really comfortable
and I hope the feeling
will continue.
So, first day very good.
(BOAT CREAKING)
NARRATOR: They're heading west, along the coast of the Yukon.
TEGNER: Well, here we are heading for Herschel Island.
NARRATOR: They are sailing in waters that were first explored
by the whalers of the 19th century.
They were the most intrepid of Arctic sailors.
They pushed fearlessly into unknown regions
exploiting a resource boom in bowhead whales.
The bowheads were hunted for their plastic-like baleen
and for their oil.
In the last 50 years of whaling, 18,000 died.
They might have disappeared,
but for the discovery of fossil fuels,
which made the industry obsolete.
Herschel Island was the hub of the whale trade.
At its peak, 1,000 whalers wintered here.
RICHARD GORDON: I like that saying, "Waves upon a shore",
where a wave comes in with a new story
and goes back and leaves a history.
In the 1890's
the American whalers came into the area
and that played a real big change
in the Inuvialuit lifestyle here.
They had to adapt to the needs of the European people
and they learned their ways
and forgot who they were as aboriginal people.
So, Herschel Island holds all that.
NARRATOR: Richard Gordon is Inuvialuit,
the Inuit of the western Canadian Arctic.
GORDON: Growing up myself, I didn't really pay attention
to who I was as an Inuvialuit.
What opened me up was when I made the trip
to Herschel Island traveling with the elders.
To hear those stories
it opened me up to say that I am Inuvialuit
and I should be proud to be a Inuvialuit because
it was our elders,
and their parents before them, and their great grandparents
that fought to protect the land as best they can.
GORDON: It's not just about protecting
an island or anything like that.
It's protecting the value of who we are as human beings
and our responsibility that we have.
No matter where we are in the circle Polar region.
If you look behind, you can see that history.
You have wind breakers where our elders
and them were raised in these kind of protection.
And then when the whalers and traders came
you got houses that you have to live in.
And now you have tent here representing researchers.
TEGNER: Herschel Island consists mainly
of loose material like sand
and it has risen above the general level
due to thawing and freezing.
Building up a structure.
And you could see visible signs
that the permafrost is not so consistent any longer.
There was big signs of erosion along the shore.
Very clear signs of climate change.
Definitely.
NARRATOR: Hugues Lantuit has spent a decade
studying the thawing permafrost on Herschel Island.
(HUGUES LANTUIT SPEAKING)
NARRATOR: His team is studying complex dynamics
that are gaining momentum.
Each year they must dig deeper to find ice underground.
Each year the vegetation spreads.
ISLA MYERS-SMITH: So out here we are looking at
how the plants are responding to climate change.
One of the cool things about this area
is there is a long human history.
You've got these graves here
and they've been here for almost 100 years.
There's also photographs of the graves
so it gives us this really unique opportunity
to come back and take the same photographs
and look at the plants growing
in these photographs and see if things have changed.
MYERS-SMITH: We got that one guy over there,
and we want to go as far as the one with a cross on it.
So there's a bunch of things going on.
One of the things is that
growing seasons are getting longer.
So that means that the plants
have a lot more chance to grow.
Fifty-four.
Fifty-eight.
You also have a deepening of the active layer.
The part of the soil that is unfrozen in the summertime.
When that gets deeper
the different plants can grow their roots deeper
and access different nutrient pools
and so potentially grow more.
Okay, one last one here.
That's good, got it!
(INDISTINCT RADIO CHATTERING)
How far are we? LANTUIT: We got another 20 minutes.
NARRATOR: Each year, they find more carbon rich sediment
from the island when they dredge off shore.
BORIS RADOSAVLEVIC: We're trying to answer
where the carbon and the sediment is moving
and where it is going ultimately
once it's eroded from the coast.
The sediment is there
and it had to come from somewhere
and the most obvious place is here because we see
eroding cliffs and falling permafrost
and huge thermalerosion features.
RADOSAVLEVIC: Uh, add shell fragments to that.
Okay.
NARRATOR: The work is dirty and uncomfortable,
but the young researchers are driven by a belief
in its importance to the world.
RADOSAVLEVIC: I think I have too many interests.
And so when I was trying to pick
what I was going to study in college,
thought well,
I'll study political science
or something that can change the world
or maybe I should try to understand people,
study anthropology.
Our place in the Universe.
Big questions of life.
I took a geology class
and then I realized
that really to understand the universe,
there is no closer place to go
than our planet.
(FLIES BUZZING)
(LANTUIT SPEAKING)
(LANTUIT CONTINUES SPEAKING)
NARRATOR: Studying that emerging catastrophe is dangerous work.
Thawing permafrost can swallow a person whole.
At the moment where we are walking on
it's inactive,
but where Hugues walking
this is more or less very active.
And I would recommend you not to walk over there
because you have to cross an active
mud flow and you usually just
hop like a grasshopper from one piece to another.
STEFANIE WEEGE: While you're standing on those grass pieces
it start sinking into the mud pool
due to your weight.
Got it!
Got it.
(CLICKING PHOTOS)
(MUD SQUELCHES)
(WIND WOOSHING)
We stayed very shortly there, (CHAIN ROTATING)
just anchored up for a couple of hours.
TEGNER: Can you talk about the experience?
It's a magic place.
(LAUGHS)
MICHAEL: Very good. Yourself?
Very good, very good.
(BIRD CHIRPING)
NARRATOR: The one luxury Herschel offers scientists
and explorers is its sauna,
the only place for miles around
where a body can get clean.
(MAN SHUDDERS)
(MAN LAUGHING)
Whoa!
(GRUNTS)
TEGNER: Herschel Island a pretty place.
COTTIER: So, how was your swim, Richard?
Just perfect!
TEGNER: We visited with Libellule
far too short visits.
I would of liked to spend more time there.
TEGNER: What a great place.
Thank you, Lillebule.
Libellule.
COTTIER: Libellule. (LAUGHS)
NARRATOR: They set out in the choppy waters
of the gathering autumn.
They have 3,000 km to sail
and only two weeks
before the sea freezes over once more.
TEGNER: It's quite cold on the boat.
And when you wake up it's just a few degrees.
Ah! No problem, no problem.
I'm doing the diary, just fine! (CHUCKLES)
So,
Philipp just entered my cabin here with a bucket
in the case I would be sea sick.
That's very thoughtful, but no problem so far.
(MUSIC PLAYING)